(Topic ID: 1058)

Let's see pics of game rooms!


By erak

9 years ago



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    18
    #2886 5 years ago

    My new game room at my office, with a bit of variety. Cars, pins, slots.

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    5 months later
    #3441 4 years ago
    Quoted from whitey:

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    Love the antique slots!

    1 month later
    18
    #3637 4 years ago

    Took the first step to building my game room this weekend. I'm starting with a 2900 sq. ft. basement, 9 ft. ceilings and a mountain view on one end. This weekend, I got serious and started painting the ceiling with "Black Magic" paint, made an incredible mess, but it all swept up nicely. Here are the results of the first 16 gallons of paint (ran out, need about 8 more gallons). Need to add a bath room, two bedrooms and a bar.
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    #3647 4 years ago

    I didn't realize how many painted parts I missed until I took pictures! Trying to paint with lights at night didn't really work well...I'll be touching up during daylight hours...

    The paint has its own primer so it is supposed to stick to ductwork well. Time will tell. And the floor, it's a toss-up between polished concrete and stained/sealed surface. In the center of the room, I'll be putting my 1958 Gandy pool table, then the perimeter will be lined with slots, arcade games and pins. I plan to surround the posts with a boxed-in structure with 3 or 4 slot machines on each post and should still have enough room for the pool table and perimeter space.

    If I end up polishing the floor, it'll be done next. Otherwise, all the construction will go first and the stained floor will go on afterwards. Polishing is a tougher surface but cost is about 50% more than staining.

    11
    #3666 4 years ago
    Quoted from Daniml:

    I'm afraid your four pins are going to get lost in that space. What else are you planning to add to your line up? A twelve lane bowling alley, water park, or a full size Terminator 2 3-D ride from Universal Studios?

    I was originally in Chicago and came across a storage unit full of old 80's slot machines - 45 of them. Most are Jennings 400 series and about 20 of them are Bally E2000 series machines. The price was right, and it was "all or nothing at all" so I went for all of them. Went thru most of them and they work beautifully.

    So.

    That big room will definitely have a "casino" flavor to it, plus my 1958 Gandy pool table and several arcade machines including a sit-down Cruis'n USA. I got a feeling it'll fill up pretty quickly.

    My wife tells me I'm sick.
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    #3672 4 years ago

    ^^ That's smart positioning and great way to keep them close. Arcades in-between - Great layout.

    #3741 4 years ago

    Ramegoom E2000 Slot Machine

    Quoted from chalkup8:Nice. I would love one of those.

    Can be shipped! 20130609_142759.jpeg

    4 months later
    12
    #4598 4 years ago

    Game room is still in the early stages of production. But, I did snag a couple of gems to add to the mix:
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    These vintage machines are now 100% functional, dated 1953 and 1957. The big one is 14 ft. long.

    So, with 1900 sq. ft. of useable space, I am down to 1300 ft. of game room space, after adding a shop, utility room, bathroom, and bedroom to the mix. Construction starts first week of August. I'll post pictures as I progress. Ceiling is blacked out, 9 ft. tall, so there's plenty of room for the noise to go.

    1 month later
    #4829 4 years ago

    The game room construction has begun. Framing this week, bathroom plumbing roughed in. Now- it gets fun.

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    #4860 4 years ago
    Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

    Um, how many square feet we talking here?

    2900 Sq. ft. By the time I subtract the bedroom, utility room, work shop and bathroom, it's around 2300 sq. ft. of pure game room space.

    I started a separate thread called Arcade/Game Room. There will be several arcade games in it, along with a pool table, two bowling machines, a skee ball, and many, many slot machines. My wife tells me I'm out of control. I don't think she's serious...

    2 weeks later
    #4924 4 years ago

    Clever re-purposing of an otherwise useless piece!

    1 week later
    17
    #5027 4 years ago

    Game room pins will be re-located in the new project, sometime around early November. Line-up of the pins:
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    These will be spread out and integrated in the new room. Old house slot room:
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    1 month later
    10
    #5201 4 years ago

    The calm.....before the storm.

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    #5203 4 years ago

    Already got the bar covered. It's a circular bar, 10 ft. in diameter and actually has a mountain view. Here's the space:
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    #5207 4 years ago

    The windows are facing west-northwest, so the mountain range is in full view from around center to the left. Here's what I see looking out the center and left bar windows:
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    #5209 4 years ago

    Ha, yeah, it gets brutal right before sunset, as it cuts an angle right across the wall of windows. I took out the west-southwest window to install a "walk-out" door, without a window, to cut the sun angle at that end. It will help a great deal to eliminate the glare. Fortunately, it only lasts for maybe 20 minutes, as the sun falls behind the mountains. The angle changes slightly depending on the time of year.

    1 week later
    #5315 3 years ago

    Very difficult to make a proper exposure with the games turned on. If you want the room to look adequately lit, the LED's and other lamps on the game over-expose, causing the colors to run together and go to white. And, if you expose for the game lighting, the rest of the room goes black and into the shadows.

    To do it properly, you would need to take several exposures, layer them in Photoshop, then match the exposures on the layers and mask off the light and dark sections. Lots of lightroom work to make a suitable image of the room.

    So, leave them off and take one shot. Or get real technical...

    #5317 3 years ago

    Daytime equally as difficult, especially if there are either too many windows, or not enough windows. And the angle of the sunlight.

    Although if the room is evenly lit with natural light, turning on the machines won't really hurt the exposure. Good question though, as many pics don't have the machine powered up.

    This could be a separate thread "Pics with natural light and powered up". Could be interesting, especially if the owner uses semi-pro camera equipment.

    Cell phone pics don't count.

    #5319 3 years ago

    That's called "High Dynamic Range" or HDR and can actually be done within the camera, but it's usually found on the high end cameras. There is HDR software available for your computer which gives you the same results.

    2 weeks later
    #5378 3 years ago

    Nice collection, high ceiling works too well. Great variety in your room. I am impressed!

    #5393 3 years ago

    Put the outlets in the ceiling and put them every 20 ft or so. Then the strip lighting power can be nailed to the rafters. You can also place lighted neon signs anywhere, keeping cords almost invisible. For that matter, all your pins can be powered that way, so there won't be any cords laying on the floor.

    And, instead of hanging a ceiling, paint it all black. It will give you some ambiance, and the room will definitely be larger. If you hang a ceiling with all that duct work, it will detract from the game room IMO.

    #5398 3 years ago

    Refer to the NEC, National Electrical Code. Generally, the code requires one outlet every 10 ft. of linear wall MINIMUM. I can't find a specific maximum number of outlets in the code.

    Of course, when you do a game room, you will want much more. I put mine every 48 in. at the 16 in. floor level, and also added upper outlets at 72 in. for various neon signs. When I did my build-out, I used a 100 amp sub-panel and added 15 circuits to the room, 15 amp breakers, and somewhere between 8-12 outlets per breaker. As far as code is concerned, there is really no maximum number of outlets per circuit, but 10-12 outlets is acceptable. I also boxed the support columns with 2 ft. x 2 ft. framing, and added one outlet per side.

    Consider the power requirement for each pinball machine - I believe it's between 140 and 200 watts per machine. Older machines with incandescent lighting will draw much more power than the current-day LED loaded machines, or even an older machine retrofitted to LEDs. On my pinball wall, to be on the safe side, I put a 20 amp arc-fault breaker with 12 gage wiring throughout. I plan on putting 8 pins on that wall.

    I replaced the required general ceiling lighting (6 ceiling lamps) with 14 can lights, all running 65 watt equivalent LED flood lights (they're 13 watts each) so the single 15 amp breaker has no problem running those lights, and if needed, I can add more. Plus there is considerably more light produced compared to the base system.

    Since you're doing it from scratch, you will have a lot of flexibility placing electrical outlets and switches. Remember, more is better. Lots more is better-er.

    #5402 3 years ago

    Just remember to use 12 gage start to finish, ahead of any 20 amp breakers. 14 gage is used on all 15 amp breakers so you can possibly split up the outlets and run several circuits if you plan on running more than 4 pins total on a single circuit. Always better to separate the circuits to prevent power sags when one machine pulls high loads like ball stop magnets.

    If you are starting from scratch, now's the time to plan ahead. Always good to have too many outlets, since you probably won't populate all of them at once, but will give you flexibility for placement of machines. I have had as many as 4 machines on one 15 amp breaker with no overload problems.

    2 weeks later
    #5456 3 years ago
    Quoted from presqueisle:

    Awesome rooms here everyone (and very inspirational since I'm about to start a 13' x 22' basement pin room). Been getting ideas here so I'm dangerous. Right now I'm just working off a vision in my head, but hope to have a cool little spot to share some pictures of soon.
    I have a question about led/rope lighting. What type should I use? It would run along the baseboards, and also underneath a round glass table. I will have an outlet in one corner of the basement for the baseboard lighting, that's dedicated to a dimmer switch at the entrance. The glass table will also have an outlet underneath for LEDs, and will be operated by the same switch as the baseboard lights. Basic rope lighting would be sufficient along the baseboards possibly, but for the table I'll need something I can trim/mold...(it will be a craft project for me). Ideally I'll be able to dim the LEDs and have a color choice.
    Room will have jet black walls and ceiling, with a glossy Caribbean blue poly finish over concrete floor. I'm hoping the end result makes it seem like a flooded basement, in the Caribbean
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    That floor is slick! I looked at different colors for my room, decided on silver metallic polyaspartic. Black walls and ceilings will make it very cool, although every speck of dust will glow on the walls. Consider a satin finish instead of flat black.

    As for the LED lighting, those rope lights from Ebay have controllers which change colors and can be dimmed. I plan on using them on my room, but haven't decided whether to affix them to the top edge of the baseboard, or top edge of the upper trim board. And, I have a short strip going under the bar, which will light the corrugated metal fascia below. Check out those RGB LED Chinese made parts...they're pretty common and at least 16 different colors are available with the controller. They all use a laptop style charger for the 12 volt source for the RGB style LEDs.

    #5487 3 years ago

    There's no downside to putting extra circuits in, except for maybe the initial cost. But if you don't have enough, you'll be kicking yourself once the walls are finished.

    You can generally run 3-4 machines per 20 amp circuit, and if you convert your machines to LEDs, you might be able to squeeze one more in. The lighting sucks up a considerable amount of power, and LEDs reduce it by a big factor.

    1 week later
    #5616 3 years ago

    ^^^ Very nice and neat. Do you have a 2nd. entrance to that room, or is the twisty staircase the only way in?

    #5625 3 years ago
    Quoted from PlatinumPinMike:

    I just have the 90 degree stairs to my basement , the pins comes downstairs very tightly but at least I dont have to remove the backbox.

    My last house had a 90 degree turn in the stairway, AND a lowered ceiling line. It made it IMPOSSIBLE to get some games in. I bought a Grand Prix arcade game, could not fit it past the ceiling hump. Out in the garage it went.

    I had a pool table in the basement, no problem getting the head assembly down that stairway...until I finished the room. Then tried to get that head out, wouldn't fit thru the doorway. I had to take it apart, 60 year old rusty bolts holding it together. What a pita.

    Same pool table, different house, just now setting it up. Game room almost complete.

    1 week later
    15
    #5655 3 years ago

    Although I started a separate thread on the build of my game room, here are some images of the end result, fitting the title of this thread. Missing a few key items, but basically all there and ready to fire up. I was fortunate in that I had 2900 sq. ft. of space to "have at it". So I did.
    collage01.jpg
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    #5696 3 years ago
    Quoted from rcbrown316:

    WTF!!!!!! I hate you lol... Polished concrete?

    Not polished, but something new. It's called polyaspartic, with a ton of aluminum powder and flakes mixed into it. Very durable and looks so shiny, it might be wet and you'll never know it. Very cool, do a google search on that finish.

    #5709 3 years ago

    Very nice and neat setup. Great variety too.

    #5713 3 years ago

    ^^ If you're up around Windsor/Loveland, give me a shout, check out the play room.

    1 week later
    #5777 3 years ago

    ^^ Now THAT. Is what a game room should be!

    #5788 3 years ago

    Just some friendly advice, put the outlets behind the pins up high, 42-48 in. they will hide the power cord nicely. And, think in advance on where you might want to install neon signs; put those up at 72 in. which will hide those cords nicely.

    #5809 3 years ago

    Just curious; why do you have the NM wiring looped around prior to entering the electrical boxes? The inspectors in my area insist that the wires get stapled to the stud within 6 inches of the box entry. And, they want a 6 in. working length outside of each box.

    Maybe the code in your area is different? It would be nice to have some slack on those wires every once in a while...

    #5848 3 years ago

    Put 12 outlets on each 20 amp circuit, 6 at 16 in. and the other 6 at 48 in. This way, if you install pinball machines, the cord will be completely hidden in the back, and it's easier to keep the floor clean.

    Also, if you are considering placing neon signs on the walls, put some outlets at 60 in. to accommodate the power for the sign, again, to keep cords out of sight.

    Then put a few outlets in the ceiling, to power "floating" games (bowling or arcade machines) that don't meet a wall.

    There are no published limits as to how many outlets you can put on a single circuit, but a reasonable limit is 12 outlets for each 20 amp circuit. Go the limit, you won't regret it. And it has nothing to do with resale of the home either.

    2 weeks later
    #5969 3 years ago

    Neon signs:

    Go to Amazon. The site has many game room neon signs to choose from, price is decent, but it takes a while to get the item delivered.
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    17
    #5975 3 years ago

    Latest images of my space. Still waiting on a few more neon signs, and I NEED to get those pictures hung. I just added a TZ to the pin lineup.
    img12_(resized).jpg

    In spite of all the space, I am quickly running out of room. Happy camper right now. But, you know how that goes...
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    #5977 3 years ago

    I have all of the machines toned down, but yeah, it's loud. Gameroom style. And the upstairs, well, we don't use it when we're in the downstairs anyway.

    I'm really liking the rumble of all those machines going. When the slots win, the clunk of coins hitting the coin tray adds to the "ambiance".

    1 month later
    #6269 3 years ago

    Hah, I like the excersize bike put in an impossible-to-use spot. Yeah, I use mine for a sweater rack too.

    Nice setup you have.

    2 weeks later
    15
    #6329 3 years ago
    Quoted from ramegoom:

    Although I started a separate thread on the build of my game room, here are some images of the end result, fitting the title of this thread. Missing a few key items, but basically all there and ready to fire up. I was fortunate in that I had 2900 sq. ft. of space to "have at it". So I did.
    collage01.jpg
    collage02.jpg
    collage03.jpg
    collage04.jpg

    After having a couple of months under my belt of room usage, and moving a few machines around, I have the following observations:

    1. Keep pins separated by at least 15 in. in order to have access to the back box without disturbing the footprint.

    2. If you have any bowlers, you need to keep a distance apart from both the back wall and the right side; you will need to open the machines occasionally (hinged right) and access the rear of the back box.

    3. Overhead lighting is critical to the pinball areas. You need to avoid glare from the can lights which would be seen on the glass by the machine player. Keep the lighting at a steep angle to the glass and you will avoid that.

    4. I didn't finish the ceiling and am forever glad that I didn't. I have since put extra electrical outlets in various places to accommodate string LED lighting along the entire perimeter of the walls and those outlets, placed strategically, made life simple. Since I blacked out the ceiling, a quick flat black rattle-can touch up for electrical outlets and wiring, and you'd never notice them. I put the Ebay LED string lights up using those 16 color controllers, linked each power outlet with remote outlet controls from Amazon, and have currently settled on the lowest intensity blue lights all around. Way cool.

    5. Lack of carpet makes moving the machines around much easier. I went with a metallic floor surface, and have waxed it with "Cherry Wax" to give the gloss shine a shot in the arm. Cleanup is a snap using a dusting mop. And, mopping the floor near the outside entrance is easy and effective. Spill a glass of wine, no problem. After two former carpeted game rooms, I can say I'd never recommend carpeting again. Polished or coated concrete is the only way to go.

    6. I was concerned about lack of ceiling insulation and potential noise, but it turned out well. The overall noise from pins, bowlers, arcade machines and slot machines turns out to be a great mix of ambiance, and you can still hear the TVs over it all.

    7. The heating system really doesn't get much use. With all machines in operation, total heat generated warms the room nicely. I'll probably be complaining about it this summer, but that's what air conditioning is all about.

    8. I added several outlets at 6 ft. off the floor for neon signs, so no cords are visible. That was a good move, but I kind of wish I installed more of them. Placement of neons can be convenient if you have more outlets to choose from. No real downside to too many outlets.

    9. I installed a small angle-shaped "Prize Cage" and so glad I did. Lots of kid stuff in the room, and the cage does the trick. Loaded with cotton candy, mini Chinese gumball machines and small toys, the kids have a memorable visit there. They trade tickets won by the skee ball machine for prizes. The crane game and skee ball keep kids in their own little world. And, all the tokens for multiple slots are stored there.

    It's been a fun project so far.

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    4 weeks later
    18
    #6461 3 years ago

    Blacked out ceiling give it a spacious feel and adds to the game room experience. IMHO anyway.

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    1 month later
    #6884 3 years ago
    Quoted from AlexSMendes:

    You just gotta show us a pic of both together!

    ^This

    16
    #6918 3 years ago

    Blacked out ceilings and duct work in my room, 36 gallons of flat black paint total. The ceilings are 9 ft. already, and the blackout gives an appearance of a very spacious and gamey room. Plus, the high top bowlers fit nicely.
    collage01_(resized).jpg
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    Bar stools mounted to the concrete. Ice cream parlor style.
    bar-basement1600_(resized).jpg

    #6930 3 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    Hows you room holding up?

    Nothing broken yet. Waiting for GB Premium to fill in the last pin spot, and the floor is wearing like concrete. I have had about eight parties in it so far, and planning a local pinhead night. If you're ever up here in the mountains, make it a stop point.

    18
    #6967 3 years ago

    This was my "temporary" game room. But it had cars, too. Do those count??
    loveland_071114b_(resized).jpg
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    #6969 3 years ago

    See that slot machine in the middle of the second pic? It's got a shot of Bob Bondurant and his wife driving the white car.

    #7003 3 years ago
    Quoted from Erieman:

    It's not a full game room, but it is a game wall.
    At least it is a start.

    Now, THAT'S what a game room should look like! Doin' fine there...

    #7046 3 years ago
    Quoted from AJB4:

    With pins it seems to take themes that everybody knows or games that are self explanatory work well - in my game room POTC draws most people right away because it has both recognizable theme and obvious ship shot. AFM is also popular since it is cartoon like and the main saucer shot straight up the middle just begs to be hit. Also recommend a straight-forward vid, like ms pacman, which everyone knows how to play... Gotta believe that a Skee-Ball would be really popular if u have the room.

    Exactly. People are drawn to my Star Wars and Simpsons Pinball Party, and that "Smart Ball" skee ball machine. And the little kids, they're all about that crane game with all the unwanted beanie babies in it.

    Then the ladies are glued to those bowlers and slot machines. And finally, the guys wind up at the pool table.

    Gotta have variety in your game room.

    #7051 3 years ago

    Current pics of my space with more oddball stuff added. Running out of space:

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    #7095 3 years ago

    No way would I call my room a game room without a pool table. It's as much part of the room as the pins, and definitely game room culture.

    1 week later
    #7164 3 years ago

    I lined my entire game room with the 5050 style LED RGB strips. Found on Ebay in 15 meter lengths (about 50 ft.). Using four separate power supplies, I ran the wireless outlets from Amazon:

    amazon.com link »

    Each power supply has its own RGB controller and the multi-keypads you get with them work with all controllers.

    Setting each string to blue, lowest illumination, they leave a beautiful edge lighting effect. If I want to get crazy, I'll set them to red or green...

    I also put a string under the bar which is set to produce a color changing light show.

    Use the non-weatherproof style and set up some outlets on the ceiling if you can. All wires can then be stealth. Here's one angle:

    img13_(resized).jpg

    #7166 3 years ago

    The programs included allow them to change colors in a fade and other modes. I think that's what you are looking for? The keypad has several program modes. It's pretty standard with those RGB strips.

    The non-waterproof strips bend pretty easily. But don't count on the Chinese "3M" clone tape on the back; it couldn't hold fly shit.

    I used small 1 in. brad nails every 6 inches, tapped into the upper trim. The nails are not very visible once it's in place.

    #7170 3 years ago

    Ah, yeah, the high-end strips. I just wanted a subdued background illumination, so I went with the standard Chinese stuff. This week, blue is my preference, next week, who knows?

    So far, the Ebay stuff has worked flawlessly. I keep them on constantly, and they keep the room lit well, along with numerous neon signs.

    Those sync'ed lights are dazzling, but you probably don't want the distraction around the pins. Try to keep that area as dark as possible, let the playfields and back glass lighting do the trick.

    #7176 3 years ago

    I have six LED-fitted machines on one 20 amp circuit with no issues. If they weren't converted to LEDs, I'd only be able to do 5 machines which would be pushing the circuit to the max.

    The LED conversions reduce the power consumption dramatically.

    #7183 3 years ago

    I have 9 ft. ceilings, and didn't drywall any of the game room - only the bath room and bed room.

    I used "Black Magic", 36 gallons, and sprayed everything. The black ceiling gives the game room a spacious feel, the paint deadens some of the sound, and if I need to add a circuit, speaker wiring, or any plumbing for any reason, it's a snap. Touch-up with rattle-can flat black and you'd never know it.

    I'd do it again in a heartbeat. Blackout is the way to go, IMO.
    img25_(resized).jpg

    #7187 3 years ago

    I had those fire switches in my last house to decorate the game room, but a kid that was playing with it thought he could also do it at his school, and sent the fire department on the run. He got in trouble, and I, uh, heard about it.

    Don't do it.

    2 weeks later
    #7285 3 years ago

    Presume radon is there, and prove yourself wrong. I had to put a system in my game room, using a tall stack and a cage fan pump in the attic of the house.

    Originally, the numbers were off the chart, but once the system was installed, virtually no radon existed. Pumps last about 10-12 years and you need to monitor the operation with a manometer. Simple fix, smart to do.

    3 weeks later
    14
    #7358 3 years ago

    Did a bit of re-arranging, and added a new bowler, 1963 United "Skippy". The room is close to bursting at the seams.
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    4 weeks later
    #7499 3 years ago

    Aah, rumpus room. So that's what I should have called my basement. Time for a new neon sign.
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    #7502 3 years ago
    Quoted from AlexSMendes:

    You're gonna need a bit more than 5 machines to fill it!

    When five pins are almost too much...

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    #7505 3 years ago
    Quoted from weaverj:

    rumpus room does have a nice sound to it.

    Without a doubt. Much better than man cave or even game room. I gotta get a design going for a neon sign.

    I wonder if ROMPER ROOM was a derivative?

    1 week later
    #7564 2 years ago

    Keep the variety in your room...and don't get rid of that foosball machine. Those have a way of coming back into popularity. It's been in and out for years. Now, air hockey, on the other hand, is not as good, and takes up room. Pool table makes much more sense.

    Beef jerky. That's the lube we used to make the rods slippery enough for play. Keep a pack or two near the machine. Players will wonder...

    I'm a big believer in "variety is the spice of life" and pins alone don't make it. You need a little of everything to keep the generations of players interested.

    #7569 2 years ago
    Quoted from AlexSMendes:

    Dude, your post was so confusing so I edited it, ok? You're welcome!
    "Keep the variety in your room...and *** get rid of that foosball machine. Those have a way of coming back ***. It's been in and out for years. Now, air hockey **** is not as good, and takes up room. Pool table "doesn't" make* much more sense.
    Beef jerky. *** Keep a pack or two near the machine. Players will wonder...
    I'm a big believer in "variety is the spice of life" and pins alone *** make it. You need a little of every Pin* to keep the generations of players interested."

    Nah. Too much maintenance.

    There is more to life - than pinball machines.

    1 week later
    #7625 2 years ago

    I currently have five games and two puck bowlers on a single 20 amp circuit, with no issues whatsoever.

    I did, however, LED all of these machines including the bowlers, so the current consumption is significantly lower than the standard setup.

    I will be adding yet another pin (GB PRE) to the lineup so there will be six pins and two bowlers on a single circuit. Mathematically, this lineup will max out the 20 amp circuit at that point.

    #7627 2 years ago

    Yep, I'm putting a watt meter onto the main power panel, with a digital display where I can view it outside of the utility room (weekend project just waiting for "the weekend"). This will give me an exact picture on where the power is being used.

    The entire game room is 2900 sq. ft. with a 100 amp service panel divided into 16 circuits, and every light in the room is LED...it'll be interesting to see where the power goes.

    If I get too close to the 80% margin, I can split the feeds into two circuits which will resolve any issues, but so far, it's got enough wiggle room for the circuit.

    2 weeks later
    #7678 2 years ago

    Added a GB premium to the lineup:
    lineup04 (resized).jpg

    Slowly running out of room. Time to trade and swap.
    lineup01 (resized).jpg
    lineup02 (resized).jpg
    lineup03 (resized).jpg

    #7682 2 years ago
    Quoted from yzfguy:

    Not to point out the obvious, but those games could be moved closer together!

    My best kept secret....! It's the "emergency" contingency.

    #7684 2 years ago
    Quoted from Pugsley:

    I take it that the Skippy has been painted? I have never seen a red one.

    Yep, painted red. The original "sixties" artwork consisted of obtuse triangles and weird earthy colored geometric designs, and was pretty sad looking and sun faded. I could have tried to replicate it, but it was just too ugly, so I painted the town red. Also sent the control panel and legs out for powder coating, and re-designed the control panel to include a "Free Play" button to match the others.
    control_panel (resized).jpg

    Then, spruced up the coin box with a custom laser cut aluminum tag over the coin return. Probably should have sent that box out for powder...
    coin_box_tagged (resized).jpg

    #7686 2 years ago

    2900 sq. ft.

    Actually if I deduct the shop area, bedroom and bathroom, it's about 2300 ft.

    Big enough.

    img06-1600 (resized).jpg

    2 weeks later
    #7757 2 years ago

    Bugsy,

    I see you got the smart ball skeeball game...I thought I was the only person on the planet to have one of them! Works great.

    #7760 2 years ago

    ^^Same here. The smart ball machine is on all night and played continuously. If there were only a way I could limit that "popcorn" music and the inherent buzzing in the speakers, It'd go for days...

    2 weeks later
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    #7845 2 years ago

    Did a little machine-moving and re-organizing. All bowlers on one wall now. Making room for the Pac Man Royale.
    bowlers01 (resized).jpg

    pins_bowlers_slots2 (resized).jpg

    bar01 (resized).jpg

    17
    #7861 2 years ago

    New addition to my game room. The 80's, they're baaaaaack:
    battle_royale (resized).jpg

    #7867 2 years ago
    Quoted from jorge5240:

    Interested on how this received. Always looking for new ideas to keep the non-pinheads interested.

    This is a great game for all ages, where up to four players compete against each other. He who grabs the power grows very large and eats the opponents, and when everyone's the same size, you can bump your pac man into your opponent and slam it into the ghost - win.

    Beautiful LCD 32 in. flat screen is the countertop. The machine is heavy - 230 lbs. or so, and it's big. But an absolute blast. The marquee is almost 9 ft. tall, so you need the overhead room. And four bar stools to complete the setup if you want. You can stand and play as an adult, but kids would prefer to sit because of its height.

    You will find more of your crowd gathers toward it than you'd expect.

    #7870 2 years ago
    Quoted from jorge5240:

    Did you buy new? How long have you had it for? Thanks, Mike

    Bought it brand new, delivered on Monday. Very cool machine.

    #7881 2 years ago
    Quoted from gweempose:

    If you don't mind my asking, where did you buy it? I've been thinking about getting one of these for my basement ever since they first came out.

    Game Exchange in Denver, talk to JJ.

    I am absolutely happy with this machine, and it was an immediate hit, hands-down. What a great addition to the room. Be forewarned, though...it's about 9 feet tall. Overhead space is a must for the lighted marquis.

    3 weeks later
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    #8041 2 years ago

    Googling switch plates, I found that people were using pinball flipper buttons (arcade button switches) to make wall switch covers. So, I got to work on my laser and cut some plastic sheets (multiple layers, colors and thicknesses), then used six arcade buttons, cut down and shortened, and made me a cool looking wall switch plate. Removed the cover and placed this thing right over the switches at the foot of the stairway in my game room. Very cool results.
    img03 (resized).jpg

    #8043 2 years ago

    Y'know I don't remember. It's at the office, and I'll have to check it tomorrow. It is an older 30 watt machine, I think 12 x 17 platen, and can cut with one lens, engrave with the other. Works great. I could easily make polycarbonate plastic protectors with it. HEPA filter built in.

    This switch plate needed short button mounts, so I had to hacksaw the threads off, left about 1/8" and ground the hex nuts down to match. So, behind the 1/8" panel it extends slightly more than 3/16". The outside frames just space it out and away from the wall, distance enough so that the buttons will contact the paddle switch behind it. Pretty simple, but required a bit of finesse to make it work properly.

    #8047 2 years ago

    Kind of a PITA to make, so I can't see producing them - too labor intensive even with the ease of the laser cutter. You have to cut the button sleeve down along with the mounting nut, cut off the button retainers, then drill a hole thru the base of the button to add a cotter pin. That keeps the button in its holder, which is cut down to fit behind the plate.

    The rest is easy, but those buttons are a b!tch. Maybe I'll post a set of images on how I did it. I will be putting another one of these at the top of the stairs, using different color buttons.

    #8053 2 years ago
    Quoted from Pinzap:

    Awesome mod!! Mind if I ask which laser cutter you use?

    Versa Laser. It's a 30 watt machine, works well. I am in the process of cutting a piece of orange acrylic, about .100" thick.

    1 week later
    #8073 2 years ago

    ^^ Sure looks insulated, heated and cooled to me.

    3 weeks later
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    #8210 2 years ago

    Had a neighborhood party in my game room this past weekend. Here's a quickie video tour:

    #8214 2 years ago
    Quoted from BudManPinFan:

    What, no one's playing pinball!!! Just kidding, that's awesome man. A little bit of everything to keep everyone happy.

    See, that's why you need more variety. They would migrate from one machine to another. At one point, all the pins were up and running, but a ball got lost on one of the machines so I had to shut it down. Still looking for that ball...

    2 weeks later
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    #8259 2 years ago

    Wouldn't be a game room without a pool table. You want more pins? Get a bigger room.

    Pool is probably the most played game - aside from the Pac Man Battle Royale.
    img030 (resized).jpg
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    21
    #8268 2 years ago

    Custom-made wall switch plates. Got the idea from someone who sells similar stuff on Ebay, but not 3-gang. So I made my own. Upstairs and downstairs. Used a 30 watt etching laser to cut the 1/4", 1/8" and 1/16" sheets of plastic and the holes for the arcade buttons. Then, hack-sawed the switch buttons and mounting nuts to a minimum height, drilled a cotter pin hole to keep them in the button frame, and played with various plastic fillers until the spacing was just right. They contact the actual paddle switches in the box, and all I needed to do was replace the trim with this contraption. Works great and looks like is should be there.
    img001 (resized).jpg
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    #8270 2 years ago

    Here are a few pics of the procedure to make the outer plate.
    20170120_063040 (resized).jpg
    Remove the button center and cut down to this level:
    20170120_062358 (resized).jpg
    Cut the outer housing short:
    20170120_063314 (resized).jpg
    Drill the buttons with a 1/16" drill
    20170120_064702 (resized).jpg
    Grind down the hex nut to make it shallow:
    20170120_063521 (resized).jpg
    All parts are shortened and ready for assembly:
    20170120_071024 (resized).jpg
    Insert into panel, and install cotter pins:
    20170120_071656 (resized).jpg

    It gets a bit more complicated, but this gives you a general idea.

    #8319 2 years ago

    I would run electrical down that post, then box it out with drywall, 18 x 18 in. from the ceiling down. You can then put extra machines there - or build a bar-top that extends maybe 2 feet in each direction, again, with electrical. You will need that up the road anyway. Use that post to your benefit rather than it being an obstruction in the middle of the room.

    Also, consider how many breakers you have running the new outlet circuits. Split them up into at least 3 or 4 different circuits. Then you can add as many pins as you want, along with other machines.

    #8322 2 years ago

    The little bar beside the post wouldn't actually be a bar, but rather a place to park your drink while playing the games. Much more convenient than a separate bar counter, and would go a long way to hide that post.

    1 month later
    #8576 2 years ago

    ^^Paint the ceiling flat black. Now's the time to do it. Doing a black ceiling will give your room depth in the height - if that makes any sense. And, if you need to add extra electrical circuits (you will) it makes it very convenient.

    #8578 2 years ago

    For overhead lights, I used can lights placed evenly around the room except for above the pins. Whatever light you place there will glare off the PF glass and be irritating. Be very cautious about lighting above the pins.

    3 weeks later
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    #8656 2 years ago

    Added a few beer-related lighted gadgets to the game room bar
    img011 (resized).jpg

    Starting to look like a busy place
    img014 (resized).jpg
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    1 week later
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    #8756 2 years ago

    Video walk-thru of my game room, 9 minutes long:

    #8761 2 years ago
    Quoted from littlecammi:

    Very impressive space and diversity of contents. But the nine minute video showed a better view of the couch cushions than the pinball games.

    Never liked that couch! I'll have to go back and re-arrange the room, get that furniture out of the way.

    2 weeks later
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    #8855 2 years ago

    Nine year old birthday party in my game room today. Kids were unusually attracted to pins and slots big time. And Mr. Zappy for some unknown reason.
    img01 (resized).jpg

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    #8859 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mopar:

    What's the United on the left of the Shuffle Bowler?

    It's a United "Chief" 1953 version.

    1 week later
    #8899 2 years ago

    And what's a game room without an arcade style light switch?
    switchplates_arcade (resized).jpg

    1 month later
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    #9059 2 years ago

    Latest additions: Bar is graced by "motion" beer signs, and since it's a round-shaped bar, it just *had* to have round rotating beer signs:
    img011 (resized).jpg

    Few adjustments to make the room flow better. I added a vintage 1955 kitchen table with the classic vinyl chairs:
    img009 (resized).jpg

    Pin lineup adjacent to the "bowling alley":
    img013 (resized).jpg

    Then the crowd pleaser Pac Man Battle Royale:
    img017 (resized).jpg

    What's a game room without a pool table?
    img018 (resized).jpg

    I just snagged this vintage Bell Systems switch board, almost perfect condition, so I'm now in the process of placing old-school telephones all around the game room and wiring them into this switch board. It'll be like an intercom when it's all wired.
    551a_front_corner (resized).jpg

    Never ending fun....

    2 weeks later
    #9182 2 years ago

    Just a word of advice for slots, stay away from Pachislo slots. They're the ones with the three buttons on the front (skill stop). They are not real Vegas slots and not licensed for the most part.

    Stick to the 80's and 90's Bally and IGT. Best for home use, and are normally casino stock. I have a room full of E-series Bally's and they work great, almost impossible to break unless the sit too long unused.

    12
    #9189 2 years ago

    Uh, yeah, some game rooms have slots and even other stuff, just imagine that!
    It's not all about pinball machines when we talk game room.
    img026 (resized).jpg
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    3 weeks later
    #9314 2 years ago

    Variety is the spice of life....

    And that change machine wraps it up.

    1 week later
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    #9370 2 years ago

    I used a 100 amp panel for my game room, which is 2900 sq. ft. I have installed about 80 outlets scattered all over, many at neon-sign level, several in the ceiling (which is a 9 ft. unfinished, painted black). I have six pins on a single 20 amp circuit with the possibility of adding one or two more - because I have LED'd all of the machines which reduce power consumption substantially. Most of the rest of the circuits are 15 amp arc-safe breakers or GFI breakers (for the bathroom). I put a power meter on the wall to monitor power usage, which is very low as about 99% of the lighting in the room, including the machines, is LED.

    All of the pin outlets are 4 ft. off the ground so no cords show anywhere. I'm a stickler about electrical cords showing. Always put in MORE outlets than you think you'll ever need. There really is no limit to how many outlets you can put on each circuit, since you'll only use what you need. Even after 80 in place, I wish I had put in more.

    Ceiling outlets are very handy if you plan on putting perimeter lighting LED strings throughout. Using remote outlet controllers, I can turn on any of six zones for the LED lighting. Put them in every corner, and also floating within the grid of the ceiling at every 10 feet or so. You can float pinball machines in the middle of the room anywhere if you have a ceiling outlet hookup - no cords on the floor anywhere.

    I used ceiling can lights scattered to provide even lighting, along with a few in a row over the pool table and a couple in the "family room" section with the fireplace. 65 watt flood LED lights only use 12 watts each, and don't produce any real heat.

    As for heating, I have a gas forced air ducted heat system, but rarely use it, even in the dead of winter. The house is a raised ranch with the basement being aroung 4 ft. under the grade, and the heat from upstairs is very adequate for the basement.

    Finally I did my floor in a "polyaspartic" material, similar to epoxy but more rugged. It's got about 80 lbs. of pure aluminum flakes mixed into the clear topcoat, giving it a "wet" appearance and very deep. It's first thing people comment on when they get in the room. Glossy bright, you can do it in any material or color, very cool and can take much abuse and heavy machines with no downside. Mop it to clean it as well.

    Many different ways to design a room, so this is just the way if finally did my room, after building 3 different game rooms in past houses.

    img011 (resized).jpgimg013 (resized).jpgimg018 (resized).jpgimg016 (resized).jpg

    #9410 2 years ago

    I used a total of 36 gallons of "Black Magic" paint thru a Harbor Freight airless spray gun. It actually worked quite well, but you have to clean it out thoroughly when not in use. The room is 2900 sq. ft. but I only painted about 2500 feet of ceiling. That paint has a primer built in, so I was able to spray the galvanized heat ducts and it stuck nicely.

    Do the ceiling BEFORE the room gets finished. The overspray will dry before it hits the floor, so it's a simple task to sweep it up afterwards.

    Once you get the room together, you'll no doubt be adding more circuits and wiring, so you can rattle-can those exposed items with semi-flat black and it'll blend right in. I recently picked up a 1944 vintage Western Electric telephone operator switchboard and a number of old dial phones, so I have to add wiring everywhere - wished I'd put the wall jacks in before finishing the walls, but who knew? So some of the jacks will have exposed wire. Owell.

    #9412 1 year ago

    Actually, no. It was one heavy coat. There were a few spots where I had to go over, but for the most part, one coat covered everything. That Black Magic is good stuff.
    img05painting (resized).jpg
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    #9447 1 year ago

    ^ Variety. I love variety. VERY nice.

    #9499 1 year ago

    I'm in Colorado and have several early 80's slot machines in my game room along with some 1930's antiques. All of them meet the pre-1985 code. All of the early slots run on US coins, and the later machines run on quarter-size tokens. Each machine has its tray full of tokens so anyone can step up and play - no cash needed.

    For what it's worth, the tokens keep it legal. And keeping a cup full of coins on the machine keeps it legal. To the point: No one spends their own cash.

    Now, if you control who gets the tokens....

    antiques_01 (resized).jpg
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    #9501 1 year ago

    Ha!

    Now that you mention it, that'd be an interesting mod - a joint dispenser in place of the hopper. Land on 3 cherries, get a prize.

    #9505 1 year ago

    Well, those Bally E-series are pretty boring, but they do OK for a real slot. They are microprocessor based and work the percentages like the current slots in the casinos. And they're the closest you'll get to keeping it on the line legal.

    Although I doubt very seriously that any authority within the state of CO would have even the slightest clue how to enforce the law. Probably never been challenged. Not a big issue either way and it's pretty safe to have really any slot.

    11
    #9513 1 year ago

    Recent addition to my game room. Now I *realize* it's not coin operated, but the console is a Western Electric switchboard, an huge electrical gadget - the same thing you would see in the early days of telephone communication. It can use a telco outside line, but I don't have one, so the phones act as intercoms and can connect with each other. And also ring, but it has to go thru an operator at the switchboard to connect. This switchboard was removed from a motel in Colorado many years ago, and wound up in my space.

    So yet another electro-mechanical gadget to fill in the blanks.
    phones_in_game_room (resized).jpg

    #9517 1 year ago

    Needed a project, so I turned to Craigslist. This switchboard was featured at an estate sale in August, apparently owned by a retired tel co employee. They had a price tag of $1000 on it, but no takers, and it was sitting in the middle of the living room. Apparently they didn't want to move it out, so I went there the last day of the three day sale, and they jumped at my offer of $200. Hauled it home, and it weighs probably 240 pounds. AND, it was totally complete and unmolested. Up until this point I knew absolutely nothing about it, and very little about hard-wired phones, but set out to learn as much as the internet would provide.

    I joined an online phone forum asking many questions about how to wire it up. Got a great deal of help there from the old-timers who retired from the phone company. Surprisingly simple once you understand it. I had to put in a "66" punchdown block, two power supplies; one to make the bells ring, and the other, a 15 volt supply, to power the relays and lights, and voila! All works. Went Ebay shopping for phones, so I have 10 phones now hooked up to it, and no outside line. You call the "operator" by clicking the hook (makes the station button flash) then the operator answers by plugging in a jack, and connects your phone to whatever other extension you want. Really cool how it operates, just like years ago. Put all the wiring in the ceiling of the game room, as they all work on two wires each. Youtube has a video of it in operation - called a 551A Western Electric Switchboard.

    Here are some images of the inside guts. The wiring is an absolute work of art:
    img04 (resized).jpg
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    img06 (resized).jpg

    1 week later
    #9557 1 year ago

    My excersize bike became a sweater rack...so I removed it. No regrets.

    2 weeks later
    10
    #9655 1 year ago

    Three switches at the foot of the stairway, three at the top of the stairs.

    Adds a twist to the game room. Visitors just have to try them, turning the lights off.
    switchplates_arcade (resized).jpg

    2 weeks later
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    #9708 1 year ago

    Latest addition to the game room. 1951 Stoner "Univendor" candy machine, automotive paint with clear coat. I installed stealth LEDs on the three trim pieces that hold the mirror along with laser-cut acrylic lenses.
    univendor_restore03 (resized).jpg
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    univendor_restore01 (resized).jpg

    #9710 1 year ago

    No, it has a pull knob that sets off a clock-wound mechanism. Code is 3-3-3. Then I have a small wireless transmitter inside, and a remote 8 in. gong that dings out the fire code (used a slot machine bell coil inside the brass gong and hid the radio receiver behind the "Fire" mirror - another laser cut piece). The cast cage lights are actually coiled filament LEDs that flash like a current-day police strobe when the alarm is pulled - otherwise, just stay on.
    completed_pull_box (resized).jpg
    alarm_bell_assembly01 (resized).jpg

    #9712 1 year ago

    Heh, that's what the Crane machine is for.....

    #9716 1 year ago
    Quoted from littlecammi:

    The mirror is a problem, when someone overweight contemplating a purchase sees their reflection and asks "do I need this?"

    Should install one of those carnival mirrors that make you look smaller

    1 month later
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    #9981 1 year ago

    I've been feeding my beast lately, and now it's almost maxed out. Almost. Here's a 7 minute, pre-party walk-thru:

    #9987 1 year ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    Your power meter must spin like a top when you fire that room up. I'd be interested to see how much juice that gr uses for an 8 hour party.

    Actually, the power consumption is minimal. The room is about 99.5% LEDs including all the pins and bowlers. I'd guess about 1/5 of what it'd consume if it were all incandescent. The power hogs are most likely the CRT arcade machines, but there's only two of them.

    #9992 1 year ago

    I wanted to use the 9 ft. ceilings at their maximum potential. Painted the ceilings with flat black - 36 gallons! - and it maintains a game room atmosphere IMO. If I dropped the ceiling, I'd realize an 8 ft. maximum height, and less around the duct work. Tall ceilings always give you the spacious feel.

    #9996 1 year ago

    I have a "smart meter" that the utility company accesses thru RF. I also have a digital watt meter that I installed in the game room. I'm gonna take a snapshot of the meter with everything turned on, to see what it draws. Now you got me wondering. I installed that box but never put it thru the test. Typically, it sits at about 1.30 amps continuously, with about 14 small neon signs going 24/7, and maybe five LED-lit objects. That's the background lighting when the room isn't used. Here's the meter that I use. The pic shows 1.09 amps draw, less than 100 watts. This varies but not a lot, when the room is idle:
    wattmeter (resized).jpg

    #9997 1 year ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    My ceiling is open and painted black too but what I really like about it is that it's easy to put lit pf's on the ceiling.

    The other thing about not finishing ceilings is that you can add wiring and electrical easily. I originally put in 75 electrical outlets on every wall, and after the project was done, I added maybe 12 outlets on the ceiling for various other electrical things, lighting, and so on. Also, I added hundreds of feet of phone wire as an afterthought, all throughout the ceiling. Touch-up wiring with flat black rattle can spray and you'd think that wiring was put in before the room was finished.

    #9999 1 year ago

    Noise is muffled, but pretty obvious. I have the volume down to decent levels on every game that makes noise, but still. Acoustical tile would help, but if you're upstairs while the action is going on downstairs, well, that's another issue...

    Noise is consistent with activity.

    #10004 1 year ago

    I'm gonna put it thru the test this weekend. Saturday party, should give me some indication. I really don't see a big jump in my electric bill, even when we're full-boat in the room. The rest of my house is 100% LED so I am seeing real insignificant electric bills anyway. Plus, electricity here in CO is cheap.

    Will be looking for KwH readings.

    #10026 1 year ago

    Scotty K: Nice variety there. Very tastefully done and beautifully arranged.

    #10075 1 year ago

    Had a crowd last night, between 30 and 35 people, and the power meter showed between 5 and 7 amp draw, around 700 watts peak to run everything in the game room at once. The entire day and night shows 5.6 kilowatt/hours on the cumulative counter. Not bad at all...

    #10081 1 year ago
    Quoted from Mopar:

    And I'm sure honored to be invited!

    Well, another one in two weeks. You're invited.

    #10087 1 year ago

    Well, come up with an excuse to go to CO for a ski weekend....and stop by.

    #10104 1 year ago

    At first thought, maybe I'm metering only one leg of the split phase entering the room. Technically only half of the power consumption would be registering.

    But.

    I put the current sensor on the neutral, so the split phase is shared with the neutral. So unless the meter circuit is malfunctioning, it's showing actual wattage draw.

    I have another neighborhood party next Saturday and will pay close attention to that watt meter. I think my biggest advantage is that virtually every machine is LED converted. However, I have 8 full size slot machines on at the same time in addition to all the other stuff, so it would likely draw much more than my meter is showing. Maybe double. I'll try to figure it out.

    #10109 1 year ago

    The good news is, electricity is cheap in Colorado. My electric bills are really not a big deal, but maybe it's because I'm used to the electric bills I had back in Illinois...around triple what they are here. I'm not complaining.

    Then to top it off, I'm getting hit by companies who want to place solar panels on my roof and drop my bills even more. Lots of sunshine here so it's an attractive thing to do. I'm not really interested in extra hole in my roof though.

    #10142 1 year ago

    Nice layout and perfect for the big stuff.

    Is that the only stairway to the room? Got that 90 degree turn that's designed to make it next to impossible to get machines in and out.

    #10155 1 year ago

    Re-purposed my extra arcade buttons to operate the light switches in my game room.

    Laser-cut the face plate and spacers out of acrylic, cut the switches down, and assembled it over the paddle switches.

    Removed the original switch plate and replaced it with the custom switch plate.

    20170120_062329 (resized).jpg
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    switchplates (resized).jpg

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    #10159 1 year ago

    Yep, same UL rated switches. The arcade buttons simply contact the esixting Decora switch, float above it when the switch is not being operated. Just slightly above the paddles so once the switch position is selected, the opposite switch floats outward.

    Basically just remove the original trim plate and replace it with the plastic.

    #10161 1 year ago

    Now that you mention it, I was planning on painting those screws with red nail polish. My wife gave me a bottle, but it had sparkles in it so I didn't want to use it. Then kind of forgot about it.

    The upstairs plate I did was made in black, downstairs red. Time to go and buy <gulp> my own nail polish.

    A laser makes short work out of these, and you can buy acrylic sheets off of Ebay pretty inexpensively.

    #10164 1 year ago

    Laser I use is a VersaLaser Model VL-200, 30 watt machine. It can handle up to 12 x 16".
    versalaser01 (resized).jpg

    #10166 1 year ago

    It'll cut 1/4 in. acrylic. It won't cut polycarbonate properly because it tends to catch on fire.

    I used to use the HEPA filter for venting, but it would clog too easily, so I rigged an inline blower fan thru the vent in the rear, and a flexible hose. Move it outside the door to run the cutter. Also use a low pressure air inlet at the cut location, which moves with the carriage.

    It works nicely on acrylic and any paper or gasket material. Amazing what you can do with it. Etching uses a different lens, and works well. Very cool machine once you start finding things to do with it. I just recently made a custom 1/4 inch mirror for my Stoner candy machine, with a red acrylic insert "Sweet" in it.
    sweet_text_mirror3 (resized).jpg

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    #10169 1 year ago

    Mine is a 1951 with 8 pulls. I also lighted the mirror, candy slots and price windows with internal LED's. Automotive deep red with clearcoat. That was a fun project.
    candy_machine_sweet-mirror (resized).jpg

    Again, using that laser, I made some acrylic backplates for the chrome mirror holders. Removed the steel pieces and replicated them out of transparent red:
    lucite_mirror_trim (resized).jpg

    #10173 1 year ago

    Yep, separate base. Sometimes, the base was removed and the upper machine was wall-mounted. Base is held in place by a couple of wing nuts.

    They made a Univendor "Lite" that had 6 pulls, and one model with 7 pulls for candy and a gum vendor on the left end.

    #10178 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pinbee:

    I think the first two numbers in the serial# indicate the year of manufacture. The stamp is inside at the top of the vending mech.
    This is my unrestored '54 Stoner.
    Seems like the 6 pull "Junior" is the most desirable among collectors.

    Thanks for that clarification. I'll check the number tonight. This is my first vending machine, picked it up in November at the Chicago coin-op show, and got it looking good in a hurry. There was another machine available there with the gum column, but it was stuck in a trailer, so I snagged this one. Probably go back and snag it if it's there at the next show. This machine wants company.

    #10181 1 year ago

    Good news is, you can put it in the middle of a room. Fully mechanical, no power needed.

    That is, unless you plan to add LED feature lighting. Then you put it against a wall with an outlet, if there is any wall space left....

    #10184 1 year ago
    Quoted from ramegoom:

    Thanks for that clarification. I'll check the number tonight. This is my first vending machine, picked it up in November at the Chicago coin-op show, and got it looking good in a hurry. There was another machine available there with the gum column, but it was stuck in a trailer, so I snagged this one. Probably go back and snag it if it's there at the next show. This machine wants company.

    Built in 1951

    stoner_serialnumber (resized).jpg

    #10186 1 year ago

    The bases seem to be two different sizes from the images I have seen, and some have a locking door in front, others don't. Also, the mirror varies, small vs. large with the smaller one having arched top edges. Seems there were a few improvements or maybe modifications in the same model.

    #10188 1 year ago

    On mine, the base is 18 in. and the overall height is 62 in. I know some of them are taller, and it is all in the base. Maybe the location required a certain height.

    #10190 1 year ago

    I'd bet your machine has eight pulls, with the left pull for the gum selector. Physically about the same size as mine except for the height.

    #10192 1 year ago

    They probably make them in both designs. The youtube video had eight pulls, life savers on the left. You could load that with Wrigley's gum as well.

    #10199 1 year ago

    Game room walk thru in action, with a different crowd this past weekend. I smuggled in some Chicago pizza and beef for the occasion, and the local Coloradoans went wild on the flavor. Now I gotta go back and load up on it again.

    #10201 1 year ago

    Yeah, they kept revolving around the room doing different things. Seems that hockey game never got a break though.

    3 weeks later
    #10436 1 year ago

    The high you get from those ladders is better than any pinball machine can give you.

    1 week later
    #10487 1 year ago

    Eventually...they'll come out of the closet.

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    #10491 1 year ago

    I have the RGB strips on the entire perimeter of my game room, below the molding. You can see it here:

    1 week later
    #10556 1 year ago

    Found a mate for my Cruis'n USA-World combination. Ha! Cruis'n cousin's! Have all three versions within two machines now:
    cruisns03 (resized).jpg
    cruisns01 (resized).jpg
    cruisns04 (resized).jpg

    2 weeks later