(Topic ID: 1058)
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Melbourne
Quoted from mojozone:What is that vid? I want to find a small cab like that for 60 in 1 multicade
It's a generic lowboy cabinet. Their common in Australia. If you google lowboy plans there's some well made plans around. Mine was housing a tekken that was busted up but is now just a mame. I agree the size on these is awesome for a 60 in 1 or mame. so much more compact and easier to move around.
1 month later
Mine now, waiting on a power supply for some led strip lights to go behind the machines on the ground and need to hang my arcade fake neon sign. One day I'll be bothered moving whirlwind next to my RBION again for lawlor consistency
1 month later
3 months later
Quoted from altan:I've moved some pins around and decided to take a couple of pictures. This is the only one I liked. This angle allowed me to get all of my pins in one picture.
... Altan
(Some of you know, but there is a little trick going on here also...)
was going to say you have a lot more than just 9 machines like your profile says then I realised lol
1 year later
Quoted from MustangPaul:Considering where you live that's a major investment. Looking good.
Annoyingly I sold a couple a couple of years back and now I'm looking to pick up some new pins but prices seem to have risen in that short a time.
Quoted from RDReynolds:What's the cabaret? And mad props on having a Whirlwind.
Do you mean the lowboy arcade cab? It's just an empty cab I've used for mame, their common here and the size is good but I do miss the artwork you get on the dedicated cabs but their hard to find here.
cab.jpg 1 month later
Is there any good mock up programs/sites out there for games rooms? I'm thinking of clearing out my study and moving my pins in there and was going to try and work out the best lay out. What programs do you guys use for planning layouts?
Quoted from MustangPaul:I just used a tape measure.
Yeah I've done that and think I have an idea, but some people here have posted mock ups which can give you a good visual sense of the lay out and how much room everything will be taking up.
2 months later
Quoted from MT45:Well, I finally got moved into one gameroom after having games in 2 houses for 3 years.
Pics below are the close to final updates.
Video below is a short walk through
» YouTube video
I added lighted crown molding and 4 new (centrally located) "Hue" can lights to the room and attached the Philips Hue System via controllers and LED lighting I purchased on Amazon. The regular Philips Hue LED strips are too short (6 feet) and are expensive for what you get ($90) so I bought a suitable substitute (see final notes). I did buy ONE of the Hue 6' strips and placed that behind my handmade Pinball hero card frame (see pics). All lights are controlled via the Hue Tap hardware device as using your phone is simple a PITA
Room Details
Lighting
• RGBW up-lighting via crown molding (45 feet)
• Philips Friends of Hue LED light strip (1 strip)
• Philips Hue LED (RGBW) can lights (4)
Scale and Capacity
• Room dimensions 154" deep x 17' long side one and 20' long side 2
• Machine capacity = 11 games
• Spacing between game backboxes = 4"
• Spacing game to game (between lock down bars) = 42"
• Storage closet for: Rolling tool cabinet and rolling parts storage
Features
• Custom made Pinball hero card frame (LED backlit)
• Hardwood flooring, felt cups on all machines
• Slide games left or right for working area
• Removing games requires: Pinskates to hallway, pinball lift to door, handcart from there
• Pinskates are critically important to being able to easily remove/add games as room is "tight"
• Rolling tool cabinet is a small Home Depot "Husky" model. I replaced all caster with large, soft rubber ones
• Rolling parts/supplies cabinet is from Target. I filled that with Walmart Sterlite brand locking containers in order to have sorting ability in each large drawer
Philips Hue Notes
• Non-Hue LED controllers that INTEGRATE with the Hue system
• You can buy all you need right on Amazon.com
Hero Card Frame Notes
• Created 11 Custom "hero" cards, had them printed at Walmart on 1" backers
• See my old thread here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-hero-cards
• After moving to new room, I needed a common place to mount them
• Bought 3/4 inch MDF, routed the edge, added Phlips Hue LED strip behind, then framed in molding to reflect light
• Spray painted navy blue, then spatter painted with yellow, orange and red (turn can upside down and tap)
• Mounted all of the Hero cards using command strips so I can trade games and keep the frame up to date
Crown Molding Notes
• Installing this is not as hard as you would think if you know how. I've installed Crown before but never below the ceiling and the below link was extremely helpful:
http://www.diyadvice.com/diy/carpentry/crown-molding/uplights/
• Buy and "pre-paint" all the crown molding you will need
• Snap a chalkline at height you want the bottom of the crown to be (I left 6" from top of crown to ceiling)
• Cut your nailers at the crown molding "spring angle" (51 degrees in my case) using your table saw
• Mark your studs, then nail on your nailer strips (using the chalk-line you snapped)
• Hang your crown molding on the nailer strips (nail gun is very handy and passload is fastest)
• Caulk all the little nail holes and then touch up paint
• Add your LED lights and controllers
Thanks to many folks on this thread for ideas and inspiration
The Dresden Elektronic controllers at $69.95 can be found on Amazon (and are discoverable and fully integrated into the Hue system/Tap control, etc.) When wiring your LED lights to the controller, wire the "black" wire on the LED string to the LED "+" spot on the controller. Also swap the "R" and the "G" wires with each other (see note below)
amazon.com link »
The LED light strips at $18.99 can be found on Amazon (and are 16' long, can be cut and soldered and are nice and bright, note that on the sets that I bought, I had to reverse the red and green leads into the controller in order for the color behavior to "match" what I saw on my Hue app. Once switched [one time deal] the behavior and color was perfect.
amazon.com link »
The power supply at $12.88 can be found on Amazon (you'll need to cut the end off, wire the red wire to + and black to minus on the Dresden Elektronic controller) When you cut off "part A" - save it. You can remove the 5 pin connector to plug into the OTHER end (part B) to connect another strand or portion of strand to make your light run longer than 16 feet AND do it with no soldering.
amazon.com link »
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That looks really cool like that. I have similar LED strip lighting but I'm lazy so mine just sits on the floor along one wall, wish I could get it set up like yours!
Quoted from rotordave:I was going to shoot some video of my gamesroom that I documented the build of in this thread about 2 years back.
Its been a while coming ... but thanks to TVNZ and their drone, here it is
» YouTube video
sweet!
rd
Are you interested in adopting an Australian?
2 weeks later
1 week later
1 month later
Quoted from NPO:It currently resides in the Fort Wayne area. To respect the owner's privacy, I'll leave it at that
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More pictures from today. Getting a Valley table does not exactly happen very often, and seeing as how now this table will practically come with the house if we ever sell, I feel this is appropriate to share.
Disassembly
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A couple doors had to come off
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Here we go down the now reinforced stairs. I had six 2x4s in a 2 row by 3 column setup every 4 stairs supporting each side of the stairs as well as right up the middle.
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It sits while they take a quick break.
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Legs going on and being leveled.
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Now they are measuring to make sure there is 60" around all sides of the table to allow for plenty of space when shooting a shot.
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And here it sits - all 700 lbs. Rest assured, this table isn't going ANYWHERE now, and it isn't becoming my laundry table.
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Can I borrow your car? There's some pins I want to buy NIB in the 80s
1 year later
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