(Topic ID: 1058)

Let's see pics of game rooms!


By erak

9 years ago



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    There are 13749 posts in this topic. You are on page 243 of 275.
    #12101 8 months ago

    Flipping thru a old issue of guitar world this morning. I missed the February 2015 Dimebag tribute issue where they toured his house but here's a pic of what looks like his living room. Not only 1 but 2 Kiss pinball machines!

    20181211_072810.jpg
    #12102 8 months ago

    moving right along

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    #12103 8 months ago
    Quoted from thelazybman:

    moving right along
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    How big is the room? I noticed the lack of wall outlets.

    #12104 8 months ago
    Quoted from PACMAN:

    Was it that hard to find DEDICATED arcade games back then? The room is filled with GENERIC arcade conversion kits. Yuck!

    This is why YOU should make a new clip for us!
    Dressed like him singing and dancing to this song in your gameroom!!!!
    You have the most beautifull games out there, i know im excited!

    #12105 8 months ago

    16x25 all electrical will be surface mounted

    #12106 8 months ago
    Quoted from thelazybman:

    16x25 all electrical will be surface mounted

    Why surface mount?

    #12107 8 months ago
    Quoted from thelazybman:

    16x25 all electrical will be surface mounted

    Oh man that's a nice size. Surface mount is nice and easy.

    #12108 8 months ago

    Easy yes, but much cleaner look concealed, unless you are going for an industrial look.

    #12109 8 months ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    Surface mount is nice and easy.

    Sorry, but concealing the wiring is MUCH easier and takes less time than running pipe on the outside. Piping does allow you to make changes in the future.

    #12110 8 months ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    Piping does allow you to make changes in the future.

    Looks like butt though, IMO. Great room size though, I wish I had that much space!!!!

    #12111 8 months ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    Sorry, but concealing the wiring is MUCH easier and takes less time than running pipe on the outside. Piping does allow you to make changes in the future.

    Bryan... i definitely agree this is the way to go. Unfortunately had to do one surface mount in my detached shop. Spray foam insulation all around including the lid. Fortunately I put over 20 outlets spaced 4’ apart in every wall, plus cove/soffit outlets above in each corner and a couple extra outlets below a loft area. But missed one spot because ended up using shaft mount garage door openers instead of overhead type. But it worked out nicely.

    #12112 8 months ago
    Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

    [quoted image][quoted image]

    My grandma bought me Snowball Blaster in 1996, I put mine on my tree yesterday! Still works perfect.

    #12113 8 months ago

    Serious question (and I know codes vary by area). Based on what I've read up on, If I wanted to throw up some walls in my basement I need:
    * pressure treated lumber on the bottom plate for the wall frame (optional if I want to use nails or tapcons to secure). This is so that if I should get a flood, the base is waterproof
    * Ideally I should have an insulation barrier between studs (either fiberglass or pink foam)
    * I need a moisture barrier (IE polyurethane sheet at least 6 mil) on the outside before the drywall so in case moisture somehow gets through, it won't rot from the inside

    Assuming I don't also need a moisture barrier behind the wall (I do plan on coating every concrete wall with drylok) ?

    I'd like to get some real flooring down at least partially, and I don't want to do that until I have some real walls up. I also plan on using dricore tiles before I put down anything on the concrete floor.

    32
    #12114 8 months ago

    Joked with my friend that this is our "no topper zone." The classics can't be molested, at least in my opinion.

    classics row (resized).jpg
    #12115 8 months ago
    Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

    Joked with my friend that this is our "no topper zone." The classics can't be molested, at least in my opinion. [quoted image]

    If you zoom in F2K looks 7 ft long! Lol

    #12116 8 months ago
    Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

    Joked with my friend that this is our "no topper zone." The classics can't be molested, at least in my opinion. [quoted image]

    #12117 8 months ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    Serious question (and I know codes vary by area). Based on what I've read up on, If I wanted to throw up some walls in my basement I need:
    * pressure treated lumber on the bottom plate for the wall frame (optional if I want to use nails or tapcons to secure). This is so that if I should get a flood, the base is waterproof
    * Ideally I should have an insulation barrier between studs (either fiberglass or pink foam)
    * I need a moisture barrier (IE polyurethane sheet at least 6 mil) on the outside before the drywall so in case moisture somehow gets through, it won't rot from the inside
    Assuming I don't also need a moisture barrier behind the wall (I do plan on coating every concrete wall with drylok) ?
    I'd like to get some real flooring down at least partially, and I don't want to do that until I have some real walls up. I also plan on using dricore tiles before I put down anything on the concrete floor.

    This is almost exactly what I did. If you do have a moisture problem, Do not use fiber batts; it will never dry if you are putting the studs right up against the wall. Use foam board (make sure you buy a hot knife if you are installing yourself!), or do spray foam. Spray foam is pricier but you get a better seal and R-value is a little better. Batts are the best; but you need more space.

    I built our basement 2 inches off the concrete so air can get in anywhere it needs to, in the event we have major leaks, and the fiber batts never touch any moisture.

    So far so good, and no real need for the moisture barrier except on the floor. IME this is a superior design to jamming everything in air tight and trying to squeeze out every inch of space. Air tight means water like.

    I also did dricore, and if you have the ceiling height, it is awesome (although a pricey subfloor..) be careful not to pierce the rubber layer, as any water can wick up into the OSB on top.

    #12118 8 months ago
    Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

    This is almost exactly what I did. If you do have a moisture problem, Do not use fiber batts; it will never dry if you are putting the studs right up against the wall. Use foam board (make sure you buy a hot knife if you are installing yourself!), or do spray foam. Spray foam is pricier but you get a better seal and R-value is a little better. Batts are the best; but you need more space.

    I don't have any moisture issues (I did about 5 years ago when the foundation developed a crack in a corner, but I had professionals fill it in with epoxy and haven't had issues since). I'm just making sure I'm doing everything right the first time so I'm not tearing it out later.

    The only work I've done is finish off the wall going down my stairs. They drywalled the stud wall on the left, but on the right as the stairs dip below the first floor you can see the triangular chunk of foundation on the right side. I didn't want to lose width so I used 1x2 to build a frame along that wall, fastened it to the foundation with liquid nails as well as drove some screws into the stairs, put pink foam in-between, and also sprayed foam in-between just to be sure. My plan was to continue that thin wall to the 6 feet of wall beyond the end of the stairs so I don't have a weird jog in the wall, then start using 2x4 studs to do the rest of the walls.

    Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

    I also did dricore, and if you have the ceiling height, it is awesome (although a pricey subfloor..) be careful not to pierce the rubber layer, as any water can wick up into the OSB on top.

    It's more than say a piece of generic plywood subfloor, but if you do the math at $6.50 per 2x2 tile it's really only $1.60/sq foot (which is not bad for peace of mind). I'm only looking to do about 250 sq feet.

    #12119 8 months ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    Assuming I don't also need a moisture barrier behind the wall (I do plan on coating every concrete wall with drylok) ?

    I’ve heard that it’s not always good to seal up concrete from the inside with stuff like drylok as the moisture will get trapped then build up enough force to start eroding the concrete (over years). I have concrete cinder block walls. Where they drylocked some 20 years ago the surface is slightly eroded and the dryloc flaking off vs where they didn’t there are some salts from moisture but the wall is still in pristine condition.

    My plan for when I finish things a bit more is to like you said use a moisture barrier behind the finish but leave an air gap between that and the wall so that any mosture that does come through can safely evaporate.

    This probably wouldn’t apply in wetter areas, but where I’m at the climate is mostly dry.

    #12120 8 months ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    Serious question (and I know codes vary by area). Based on what I've read up on, If I wanted to throw up some walls in my basement I need:
    * pressure treated lumber on the bottom plate for the wall frame (optional if I want to use nails or tapcons to secure). This is so that if I should get a flood, the base is waterproof
    * Ideally I should have an insulation barrier between studs (either fiberglass or pink foam)
    * I need a moisture barrier (IE polyurethane sheet at least 6 mil) on the outside before the drywall so in case moisture somehow gets through, it won't rot from the inside
    Assuming I don't also need a moisture barrier behind the wall (I do plan on coating every concrete wall with drylok) ?
    I'd like to get some real flooring down at least partially, and I don't want to do that until I have some real walls up. I also plan on using dricore tiles before I put down anything on the concrete floor.

    That sounds about right. If you go to your city hall, I have a feeling they'll have a homeowner handout that explains many of the issues you need to deal with when finishing your basement. I know ours does.

    #12121 8 months ago

    Not really a right/wrong thing either way works. I prefer to surface mount more for insulation reasons all batts unmolested R-21 all around ,no holes to cut out in drywall, nothing to mask for painting . Carpet man came today Carpet was 27$ a sq yd new I scored a C/L deal 100$-- $200 for install money well spent. Paint is some clearance rack stuff their top of the line At home depot $9 x3 gal. I didn't have enough for the ceiling so i mixed everything left over in garage. Custom Mouie elcheepo

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    #12122 8 months ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    Serious question (and I know codes vary by area). Based on what I've read up on, If I wanted to throw up some walls in my basement ...I need:
    * pressure treated lumber on the bottom plate for the wall frame (optional if I want to use nails or tapcons to secure). This is so that if I should get a flood, the base is waterproof...

    If I'm not mistaken, I don't think it's for a flood. At least not in my neck of the woods. It's that contact with cement can cause moisture to wick into the wood. Concrete is not waterproof and humidity (even with a vapor barrier) under the slab will work it's way up to the wood. Over time untreated wood can rot/mold.

    On a related note: When we installed carpeting, we got a breathable pad that was intended for basement floors. I even used a 'smart' vapor barrier in the walls. Allows the walls to breath at the proper time of year and not other times. Of course, you can't use oil based paints (who does anymore?) then since that defeats the purpose.

    Water and moisture is a pesky thing, isn't it? Maybe there's a builder on Pinside that can chime in with expert advice, as long as it doesn't derail the thread.

    #12123 8 months ago
    Quoted from northerndude:

    If you zoom in F2K looks 7 ft long! Lol

    It's Hercules with a F2k reskin!

    Nah. You are right. Need to change my phone settings. Apparently the camera is stretching the corners.

    #12124 8 months ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    Serious question (and I know codes vary by area). Based on what I've read up on, If I wanted to throw up some walls in my basement I need:
    * pressure treated lumber on the bottom plate for the wall frame (optional if I want to use nails or tapcons to secure). This is so that if I should get a flood, the base is waterproof

    Concrete is porous and allows moisture into the basement through the slab. Regular wood absorbs this moisture and over time will rot. That's the reason for pressure treated lumber on the bottom plate.

    I'd go with a ramset to secure the walls to the concrete. It works just as well, is faster and more fun.

    I even used the ramset to pin the walls to the basement support poles.

    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    * Ideally I should have an insulation barrier between studs (either fiberglass or pink foam)

    I used an additional layer of insulation in all my exterior walls and all the walls in the theater, but not on any other interior walls.

    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    * I need a moisture barrier (IE polyurethane sheet at least 6 mil) on the outside before the drywall so in case moisture somehow gets through, it won't rot from the inside
    Assuming I don't also need a moisture barrier behind the wall (I do plan on coating every concrete wall with drylok) ?
    I'd like to get some real flooring down at least partially, and I don't want to do that until I have some real walls up. I also plan on using dricore tiles before I put down anything on the concrete floor.

    The system I used didn't require or recommend either a moisture barrier or drylock. Do you have moisture problems in your basement?

    Dricore is nice, but gets expensive. It does provide a great thermal break between the concrete and the floor. I did it in my theater, but not in the rest of the basement.

    36
    #12125 8 months ago

    Hi all !

    Here is my contirbution with my little (not finished yet) french gameroom !

    Hope you will like it

    GR3 (resized).jpgGR (resized).jpgGR2 (resized).jpgGR4 (resized).jpg
    #12126 8 months ago

    thanks to everyone replying to my post, this is great information!

    #12127 8 months ago
    Quoted from November:

    Hi all !
    Here is my contirbution with my little (not finished yet) french gameroom !
    Hope you will like it

    Looks great!! I know I would kill to have a wall with old bricks like that in my gameroom. People pay crazy money for old brick facades. And you covered almost all of it up.

    #12128 8 months ago
    Quoted from Pinzap:

    Looks great!! I know I would kill to have a wall with old bricks like that in my gameroom. People pay crazy money for old brick facades. And you covered almost all of it up.

    Agreed. Me to.

    #12129 8 months ago

    Pretty cold weather here so dont really have the choice.
    Just kept a small part

    20181210_221749 (resized).jpg
    #12130 8 months ago

    That's a pretty wicked nook you have there! Love that Jagermeister light! Can't get enough of the spice!

    #12131 8 months ago
    Quoted from November:

    Pretty cold weather here so dont really have the choice.
    Just kept a small part
    [quoted image]

    Just ribbing you... I figured it was either due to insulation or unstable brick. In any case, I do love the alcove and skulls!!

    Oh yeah... and if you want cold, come visit me in Minnesota sometime.

    #12132 8 months ago
    Quoted from Pinzap:

    Oh yeah... and if you want cold, come visit me in Minnesota sometime.

    It hasn't been THAT cold ......yet. This weekend it could hit 40 in the Twin Cities.

    #12133 8 months ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    It hasn't been THAT cold ......yet. This weekend it could hit 40 in the Twin Cities.

    Weather has been awesome this week for sure!! But it’s been -7 at my cabin a couple hours north just over a week ago... and the ice on the lake is ranging from 9-14” already. Considering it’s still Fall according to the calendar, I’m fairly certain that constitutes pretty cold. But you’re right, it’s gonna get worse for sure.

    #12134 8 months ago
    Quoted from Pinzap:

    Just ribbing you... I figured it was either due to insulation or unstable brick. In any case, I do love the alcove and skulls!!
    Oh yeah... and if you want cold, come visit me in Minnesota sometime.

    Settle down, your cold days are our balmy days!!!

    35
    #12135 8 months ago

    Let’s get this thread back on track... sorry for the temporary derail.

    Looking forward to staying warm in my gameroom this winter.

    451020C1-1E8B-45A6-9A93-8F9714582A83 (resized).jpeg
    #12136 8 months ago
    Quoted from Pinzap:

    Looks great!! I know I would kill to have a wall with old bricks like that in my gameroom. People pay crazy money for old brick facades. And you covered almost all of it up.

    Just what I was thinking, but great job on the renovation..

    #12137 8 months ago
    Quoted from Pinzap:

    Let’s get this thread back on track... sorry for the temporary derail.
    Looking forward to staying warm in my gameroom this winter.
    [quoted image]

    Heaven on earth.

    #12138 8 months ago
    Quoted from Pinzap:

    Let’s get this thread back on track... sorry for the temporary derail.
    Looking forward to staying warm in my gameroom this winter.
    [quoted image]

    I see room for more pins in the future

    #12139 8 months ago
    Quoted from Pinzap:

    Weather has been awesome this week for sure!! But it’s been -7 at my cabin a couple hours north just over a week ago... and the ice on the lake is ranging from 9-14” already. Considering it’s still Fall according to the calendar, I’m fairly certain that constitutes pretty cold. But you’re right, it’s gonna get worse for sure.

    Your lucky you haven't had the bad and I mean BAD air quality we've been having all week. You's swear you were in LA.

    #12140 8 months ago
    Quoted from Pinzap:

    Let’s get this thread back on track... sorry for the temporary derail.
    Looking forward to staying warm in my gameroom this winter.
    [quoted image]

    Damn, how many feet do you have between rows? Looks like 12-15ft.

    #12141 8 months ago
    Quoted from Pinzap:

    Let’s get this thread back on track... sorry for the temporary derail.
    Looking forward to staying warm in my gameroom this winter.
    [quoted image]

    NICE collection!
    What game is that between Deadpool and Star Trek?

    #12142 8 months ago

    It's a Spiderman vault edition i guess

    18
    #12143 8 months ago

    My gameroom will be warm in the winter.

    20181212_152535 (resized).jpg
    25
    #12144 8 months ago

    Half the collection

    FB_IMG_1544777785410 (resized).jpg
    33
    #12145 8 months ago
    IMG_E2117[1] (resized).JPGIMG_2110[1] (resized).JPGIMG_E2114[2] (resized).jpg
    -4
    #12146 8 months ago
    Quoted from wolffcub:

    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Are those "car" signs above your pinball machines? I though mixing car references with pinball was total Blasphemy? I'm sorry I love your games, your room, your passion and your photography skills but I had to give you a "thumbs down" for this obvious, egregious transgression on your part.

    Snicker.

    QSS

    10
    #12148 8 months ago
    Quoted from QuickSilverShelb:

    Are those "car" signs above your pinball machines? I though mixing car references with pinball was total Blasphemy? I'm sorry I love your games, your room, your passion and your photography skills but I had to give you a "thumbs down" fir this obvious, egregious transgression on your part.
    Snicker.
    QSS

    Only BEER and HOCKEY signs allowed? Eh?

    here is my game room... tell me what the one on the far right is.

    signs 003 (resized).JPG
    14
    #12149 8 months ago

    Latest gameroom pic

    AEEECEF5-ACC9-416E-8DC2-82988002CAB7 (resized).jpeg
    #12150 8 months ago
    Quoted from bob_e:

    tell me what the one on the far right is.

    Soccer?

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