Sorcerer
Williams, 1985So I decided to send my playfield out to John to get restored. While its away getting the magic. I'll restore the cab and clean/buff/etc everything so I'll end up with a full restore when its all done.
Doing this along with my Royal Flush http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lets-restore-my-royal-flush
because everyone needs two total restores to do at the same time over the summer!
And done:
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Two days well spent!
Now to pack this baby up in the Vid method http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-proper-shipping-playfields
and send to
John http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sorcerer-playfield-restorations-last-call-end-of-february-2014-500-us
Where did I put that swim noodle?
You can just single wrap in card board. I have one that I'm going to repair a burn spot out of the bottom. I do some epoxy repairs to most that come in. USPS for shipping & value at $20.
Finally ready to get this project going again. Nothing like waiting a year after a tear-down to start to rebuild. Gives me lots of time to forget where everything goes.
Here's a pic of the playfield that got John's direct ink process. Also shown are nice rails TaylorVA made for me, next to the drab originals.
The rails are playfield both look great compaired to what I started with.
DSC01741.JPG
Now to get working on my parts orders.
The pop bumpers for the last 8 years were not masked by me so they were white. Since some people want clear, i'm masking all the restores now for them. I gave up on the few people that want to nit pick the colors on restorations, & new playfield production.
I don't mind the white at all. Sorcerer had white bumper skirts anyway.
This way I can put red skirts in and still have the white below for a bit of contrast.
What part is this?:
Two at the top of the cabinet, they seem to rest against the top arch plastic when the playfield is in place.
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They look like score card apron bumper/grommets, but the parts catalog/manual only say it has the one on the apron.
detail.jpg
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6313-1
Quoted from KloggMonkey:Some nut put blue AND red lane guides.
What part number did you use to replace the lane guides?
Transparent Red here is what I got.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2301
Looks like I goofed, 4 are double sided, and 1 is single, I got 5 double sided.. but I think I'll fix that with a saw 
Quoted from KloggMonkey:I've gotten some PMs about the target decals I made. Here is what I made with paint.net, nothing great but fits the bill.
I'm sure someone could make them a bit better with some image editing talent.
drop.png
spot.png
I had mentioned in a month-or-two old thread, I redid the drops, standups, and spinner target artwork from high-res scans, and was going to be offering sets for sale once I get off my lazy ass and have them printed. Got caught up in Centaur and Space Invaders refurbs instead......really need to get those Sorc decals printed.
Quoted from jibmums:I had mentioned in a month-or-two old thread, I redid the drops, standups, and spinner target artwork from high-res scans, and was going to be offering sets for sale once I get off my lazy ass and have them printed. Got caught up in Centaur and Space Invaders refurbs instead......really need to get those Sorc decals printed.
I would take a set as well.
Klogger - How did the grommet thing work out? Is it the same part on both the apron and the back of the cab?
Quoted from xeneize:Klogger - How did the grommet thing work out? Is it the same part on both the apron and the back of the cab?
No, but very close
The apron one, 23-6313-1 is a little smaller, shown on the right.
23-6548 is on the left.
// Error: Image 466528 not found //
The apron one will fit into the bracket at the back of the cab, and looks like it has the same end footprint of about 1/4 inch. So they could be interchangeable at least in functionality.
Ready to start getting my board work things together.
Going to get new displays and a power supply board to simplify things:
Williams 7 Digit Display Board set
Williams System 3 through 11B/Data East Alphanumeric Power Supply
from big daddy.
Anyone have any experiences with these rottendog boards?
Also whats the word on the big filter caps, replace or what?
Quoted from vid1900:They almost never go bad.
They were really good quality "computer grade" caps, and they are not under a lot of stress.
Thanks for the info, I'll keep it then. Here in a while I'll post some pics of the main board. I'm going to put in a nvram battery eliminator, and repair anything that is suspect.
Battery area looks pretty good, a little cleaning here to do:
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Thankfully someone removed the batteries before they could leak anymore.
Looks like some of the GI resistors got pretty hot, replace?
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Typical cooked connector there also:
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Looks like Q36 had a problem, could be why the backglass effect is not working.
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C47 and C48 got cooked a bit too.
Of course the ram is not in a socket.
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That's all for the topside. Thoughts?
I really want to do the board work on my own jokerz but learning how seems very difficult. I can't seem to track down any local resources to help with questions or just a point in the right direction.
I'm still pretty set on it, probably will have to learn how the hard way, trial and error.
I look forward to following this thread and see how it goes.
So they jumped pin 3 of J7 to the middle lug of Q25
and pin 7 of J6 to the middle lug of Q36.
Seems like a lazy hack kind of repair,
what did they do? Why? and what should I do?
Quoted from KloggMonkey:Looks like some of the GI resistors got pretty hot, replace?
They still look fine.
If you ever do replace them, leave 1/4" of space between the board and resistor for airflow.
You can also do a mod and get rid of the resistors altogether.
Yeah, I saw the MOSFET and 0 ohm resistor mod, I may do that now, I tested the resistors and more than half are out of spec, one was in the k ohm range, others 36 or so. Only 3 where close to 27.
The cement .4 ohm resistors were off as well.
Right now my cart at GPE:
8 - IRF9Z34Transistor, MOSFET, P-Channel
8 - RCF1/4-0Resistor, 0 Ohm, 1/4W
8 - RC5W-0.4Resistor, 0.40 Ohm, 5 Watt
3 - RC7W-330Resistor, 330 Ohm, 7 Watt
I need to replace both the board headers and the plug connectors for J6 and J7 which parts at GPE should I get?
Also the two 16AWG yellow wires going to the power supply board are essentially gone. I need to re-run them, what connector goes at the end? Mine was gone and replaced with lamp cord soldered direct to the power board
Quoted from KloggMonkey:Backside:
20151121_145310.jpg
Behind the lamp matrix area:
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All the connector pin solder points look good except the J6 and J7
don't need to reflow.
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Thoughts?
holy shit, does someone suck at soldering. How can it be this difficult to solder? It isn't that difficult.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:holy shit, does someone suck at soldering. How can it be this difficult to solder? It isn't that difficult.
Yeah it looks like some hack did some nutty work. That's why I'm cleaning it all up while I have the board out.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:holy shit, does someone suck at soldering. How can it be this difficult to solder? It isn't that difficult.
Behold:
The dreaded lamp cord to the power supply board.
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A little head work.
Before: Bar smoke goo and stains, and weird yellow paint poorly color matched.
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See that nicotine bubble up:
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After: Ugly yellow color mostly gone, maybe raised a little wood grain with the mean green but now at least its not sticky. I can always do a full cab repaint sometime down the road.
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Board work done:
New cement resistors, and the 0 ohm and MOSFETs installed.
Two new connector terminals.
Also replaced one TIP 122 with a TIP 102
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The hacked jumped traces are fixed:
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Solder cleaned up on the connectors:
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NVram installed:
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I am pleased for my 1st foray into board work
I'm certainly no master, but its a damn sight better than it was.
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