Let's figure out the minimum parts to build a whitewood


By Aurich

2 years ago


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    #15 2 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    What else am I missing?

    I'm currently at this stage with Spaceballs. I'm finding that there aren't a whole lot of dimensional drawings of pinball parts out there, so I'm having to buy/borrow them and actually measure them and put them into a CAD program.

    I'd probably buy a hooker for someone if they magically had a 3d model of a blank playfield laying around, with all of the slingshot, shooter lane, flipper, etc... geometry figured out.

    I am literally sitting here right now digitizing a model of the 3-bank motorized drop target assembly from BK2K that BadBrick was nice enough to take out of his machine and let me borrow.

    I also ordered a bunch of inserts that just arrived this week. I'm going to 3D print router guides and test assemblies. I'll make those models public if anyone wants them.

    #32 2 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    like this still have to model the underneath mechs but using 2005 solid works on a mac

    maybe you can help me with the programming.
    here is the cabinet almost done.

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    Yes! Just like that. Someone else is hooking me up with some stuff as well, but I'll gladly take more if you are willing to share! Let me know via PM.

    I can definitely help with programming. The spaceballs board set looks like its going to cost about $140 to make, so that's another option as well.

    My christmas break started yesterday, so now I'm into my heavy winter project season. Let the fun begin.

    #51 2 years ago

    For me, a whitewood takes up a lot of room, so I need to develop in much smaller bits before I jump into a full whitewood. One thing I've done just today is create these "insert test blocks" that hold an insert and one of my RGB LED boards, so I can get some testing done.

    Idea is to have several different shaped inserts just to test and make sure they look good with the LEDs I've chosen. Also, to be able to line several up in different patterns and test coding different lighting effects without having an actual routed piece of wood.

    DSC01323 (Medium).JPG DSC01324 (Medium).JPG
    #53 2 years ago

    3d printer. The insert I bought from Marco.

    #64 2 years ago
    Quoted from GimpMaster:

    Wolf
    That is pretty clever. What aspects are you testing with the LEDs in this container? Perhaps distance from the play field? LED brightness? Etc

    Yeah, optimal positioning is definitely something I'm after. I've got a couple led options as well, so I want to make sure I make the right choices for each size/shape of insert. I printed a block for triangular inserts just a bit ago, but I made a mistake in one measurement. Got the fixed model printing right now.

    Once I've got the positioning tweaked, I'm also using the blocks to test code. I want the light effects to be really nice.

    #75 2 years ago

    Aaron, that's some great stuff!!! I love the metal playfield so you can move magnetic pieces around.

    #82 2 years ago

    Here is the triangular insert box.

    DSC01326 (Medium).JPG
    #83 2 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    You should probably be more clear about what the "kit" would contain like we talked about if you want real answers.

    Definitely. I'm more interested in the physical stuff that would come with it. Not super interested in any electronics. To be clear, the lack of interest has nothing to do with FAST. I think they have a killer product, I just enjoy doing that part myself.

    #104 2 years ago

    I would be interested in buying the routed playfield wood by itself. #1 from your list.

    #120 2 years ago
    Quoted from Linolium:

    I could do this. I'd figure:
    1) $60 + shipping for a raw cut board (no insert holes)
    2) $70 + shipping for a board with a few layers of clear (no insert holes)
    3) $80 + shipping for a board with 2 clear 1" round outlane inserts, 2 clear 1" round inlane inserts, and 1 clear 1" round ball saver insert and a few layers of clear

    If you ever do it, sign me up for option 3.

    #144 2 years ago
    Quoted from Linolium:

    I just kickstarted a 3d printer. It should arrive in June or something, I'm excited to be able to print and test my models soon ... And steal Aaron's ramp/guide printing idea

    Which printer?

    I'm in love with mine. It's literally run almost non-stop since I got it a month or so ago.

    I woke up this morning to a bunch of confirmation emails from OSHPark and others. Apparently I "drunk ordered" a bunch of prototype pcbs and parts.

    #145 2 years ago
    Quoted from Linolium:

    I'm in on Flux

    Cool, the laser engraving feature seems neat!

    #152 2 years ago
    Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:

    Slightly OT but I semi-drunk ordered rotary encoder potentiometers to repair a MIDI keyboard this weekend... not even sure that's the fix but with a few rums and the confidence to solder pcbs, may as well buy something right?

    Haha, exactly. This definitely wasn't the first time for me. Sounds like Aaron does the same, lol.

    I've learned to just trust my "Mr. Hyde" when it comes to engineering/coding. :).

    #158 2 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    I'd like to learn CAD software, but there's only so many free hours in the day, any time savings I'd see from CAD tools would be massively offset by the time to learn them.

    It's so true about using tools you are familiar with.

    I chose not to code Spaceballs in python. I've been in .NET since it's inception, and found myself getting really frustrated in python. Logic/theory wasn't a problem, it was the frustration around having to google a bunch of syntax for python, or external libraries, when it was a 2 second bit of code for me in .NET.

    #183 2 years ago

    That bender gave me enough wood to go and google more videos.

    Check this monster out:

    » YouTube video

    Or this one that can do more degrees of freedom:

    » YouTube video

    #196 2 years ago

    Recently I've been prototyping one of the toys on Spaceballs, the tractor beam event. Concept is that there is a rectangular window on the playfield going vertically from the center drain to the front of spaceball one.

    Under the window, the princess's mercedes is sucked toward spaceball one, and if you successfully complete the mode, the toy flips over to the winnebago side and flies away.

    3D printing makes this kind of stuff so easy to prototype.

    DSC01327 (Small).JPG
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    #201 2 years ago
    Quoted from 3rdaxis:

    That looks like fun! I wish i had a 3d printer. And a cnc router. And plastic mold injection machine :D.
    If i were you i would put a clutch in that thing if and when a limit switch fails. Do you have a video of this yet? Very cool indeed.

    There won't be video of this version for a couple of reasons.

    - The lead screw I used was way too thin. I got a lot of wobble out of it.
    - For the reason you mention, it's too easy to defeat the limit switch. I've done it twice already, lol.
    - I need a more powerful motor.
    - The carriage needs some type of active tension device to put some load on the lead screw so the carriage provides some resistance. Some form of an anti-backlash nut.

    #203 2 years ago
    Quoted from 3rdaxis:

    There are so many way you could do that. I love a good engineering problem to solve.
    So you want the Merc to slowly travel in one direction untill its either rescued and transformed to the Winnebago and quickly returned or untill it reaches the end, in this case Spaceball One and stop then reset?

    Pretty much, it's controlled by a small AVR. There are also 18 RGB LEDs on the side (the little open circles).

    I've already got a box of anti backlash nuts, so I'll probably just use a leadscrew that matches them.

    anti-backlash-nut.jpg
    #208 2 years ago
    Quoted from 3rdaxis:

    Are you running wires to the carriage for lighting or whatnot? The ol' telephone coiled wire trick:)

    Nope, nothing going to the carriage. The trick is that the little car assembly flips over based on which direction the screw is turning. It's pretty neat. Just a little sloppy in this prototype. I usually never show this stuff to people.

    #209 2 years ago
    Quoted from BloodyCactus:

    if it were me, Id do it like my 3d printer, use a belt, skate bearing, gt2 or t2.5 belt. the Black Belt would fade into the black of the background in the box, and no need for a second rod or something to stop it from spinning around or such / constraint.

    I'm thinking about it. Mine also uses a GT2 belt, and that seems to be pretty solid.

    #211 2 years ago
    Quoted from 3rdaxis:

    Thought about the belt too but how to get it to flip? Easily:)

    No clue, lol.

    The second prototype is already on the printer, so I'll know how much a better lead screw and motor help next weekend.

    #215 2 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    I think you're going about that wrong. I don't think you want to use a leadscrew at all (and I'm not sure how you intend to flip it?) I've got ways to do what you want to do, but it has to be reliable (and not get tangled after many tries), and not get messed up during transport.

    It flips on it's own accord, because of the tension between the two bolts on the carriage. I've got two trapezoid shaped wedges in this prototype to put the tension on it.

    It actually flips really well and rides up and down the channel well, but it shakes because of the speed I have to run this particular screw at.

    #220 2 years ago

    I don't mean to steer it into a discussion about Spaceballs specifically. Was more commenting on the usefulness of a 3D printer in this kind of design work.

    I did take a clip of a video of this prototype running. You'll see why I want a stiffer screw with less TPI, and more tension on the carriage.

    » YouTube video

    #236 2 years ago

    Thanks for all the ideas 3rdaxis!

    One of the goals of my project is to make the parts easy to source, for anyone that wants to build one themselves.

    With that in mind, after thinking about it some more, I've decided to use a nema 17 stepper motor to drive the lead screw, with a 3D printed anti-backlash assembly.

    Using a stepper driver only adds a couple of components to the control board for this toy anyway.

    #249 2 years ago

    I'm still using sketch up, because it's free.

    I've got solid works 2013, but keeping with the idea that I want other people to have the assets, I need to keep my models in a format people can use for free.

    #271 2 years ago

    There is a free plugin for Sketchup to import Obj files.

    #311 2 years ago
    Quoted from gstellenberg:

    Most people just compare BOM costs and come to the conclusion they could do it for cheaper, but the rest of the list will save you literally 1000's of hours. We've even had both individuals and companies come to us after rolling their own to switch to ours.
    If you enjoy doing the low level implementations yourself, you might be happier going that route. If you're looking to save a few bucks, then you're clearly not valuing your time.
    I'm honestly not trying to talk anybody out of rolling their own; just encouraging you to think about the entire project and not just the cost of the board BOM.
    - Gerry
    http://www.multimorphic.com
    http://www.pinballcontrollers.com

    Just from my perspective, this isn't 100% correct. Sure, the BOM is lower for me, around $120 for it all, but I'm also able to have control over the project.

    No offense to you or Aaron, but my controller has features you guys don't, its not just a money thing. Time in my life is very limited, only hours a week for this kind of stuff, so I take the measurement of my personal time investment very seriously.

    I'm not intending to get into production, so the market share you have is safe from me, but the pinball controller market is ripe for someone with a better/cheaper design to jump in and really make a mark.

    All of that said, anyone who can't out engineer the current designs needs to just buy a PROC or FAST. Gerry is correct about it being the logical choice for someone who can't do the low level engineering or isn't sure what the correct parts to pick are.

    #313 2 years ago
    Quoted from BloodyCactus:

    You can make it solid, the slicer for 3d printer will calculate the infill, so whomever prints it can choose to print it solid, or with 50% infill, etc. this way the user has choice.

    Yes please. Make it solid and I'll even print a couple in different colors and post pics.

    #319 2 years ago
    Quoted from shimoda:

    What kinds of features does your system have that are not available elsewhere?

    One of the main improvements was bulletproofing the solenoid drivers and the switch matrix. You can literally dead short a solenoid and it won't blow the driver. The chipset can even tell you which solenoid is shorted. It's got several other types of fault detection built in as well.

    It's got built in voltage monitoring and dynamic adjustment. For example, if your line voltage sags, like at a pinball show, it will automatically adjust the pulse sent to the solenoids to account for it. If the voltages still fall outside of an acceptable range (think 5V, 12V, etc...), it can throw an error condition on that as well.

    Quoted from shimoda:

    Regarding Gerry's comments, I think he is overall correct - even if there are situations where someone can do the engineering.

    As I said at the end of my post, the best route for most people is to just buy hardware. I happen to have an ace up my sleeve in the form of a former exec from Maxim semiconductor. He did a lot of the heavy lifting when it came to bulletproofing the design. His career has been in industrial/automotive design where there can't be any catastrophic failures, or someone dies.

    The good news is, I'm giving away this design for free once the PCB is done and I've tested it all. If Aaron or Gerry want to take aspects of the design to enhance their own product, I have no problem with that. I'm not looking for any compensation or even a "special thanks". I'm here because I enjoy it. You won't ever hear from me again when I don't.

    Quoted from shimoda:

    If I went back in time I would go into engineering as it is just 'in my blood' but I don't have that training. I've been learning over a long arc and many dozens of small projects.

    I'll be honest, I don't care about what format training/education people have for the most part. If you are smart, you are smart. Schooling won't change that.

    There are also some degrees that I take with a grain of salt. Computer science degrees are largely a joke nowadays. I've met a lot of graduates that don't really understand basic concepts like polymorphism.

    I say, if you enjoy something like electronics, go for it! Don't let things like not having a degree in EE convince you that you can't be good at it. Just know that even when I reflect on myself, there is always someone better and smarter out there.

    #324 2 years ago
    Quoted from gstellenberg:

    Each designer / product manager should decide if the additional cost/time is justified versus the likelihood of needing them.

    Lot of truth to that.

    As you,mention, it's the trade offs. I prefer surface mount, not only because of part availability, but the cost savings. Knowing that, I wanted my board to be built once and not have to reworked every time a solenoid blows a driver. The board surface area saved, technologically more advanced components, and some guide rails for design more than offset any additional costs for me.

    #326 2 years ago
    Quoted from GimpMaster:

    I agree with this statement fully but I'm the opposite. I got a M.S. EE so the electronics / software comes easy. Now I'm picking up the Mechanical and Woodworking and Graphics Design as I go.
    One of the greatest things I did to help out with becoming a better mechanical engineer is I got a 3D printer (Rigidbot) and now I can design parts and print them the same night and iterate over and over again. A lot like how in software you can program and compile and test rapidly, we can now do this with mechanical designs.

    Totally! My degrees are CpE and EE. The 3D printer is so amazing for prototyping iterations.

    #347 2 years ago
    Quoted from Bender24:

    A friend at work has a 3d printer and brought me 3 of these today. They look good, and I'll be trying it out in my machine. (Unable to post photos at the moment)

    I've also grabbed the model and made it solid. I've been printing a couple different variations to see what lighting effects look like under translucent prints.

    I'll post some pics in a day or two.

    #349 2 years ago
    Quoted from Bender24:

    I just went with a solid color, but I'm interested to see how it looks lit up.....
    Love the Spaceballs theme by the way. Can't wait to see that one come together.

    Thanks. It's going to be a while (years), but hopefully it will be good.

    Post pic of the prints when you get a chance, I'm curious to see how yours turned out.

    #351 2 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    with the shooter lane insert I designed it with random sized countersunk screw holes but if you want the groove to go deeper and longer the middle holes will need to moved so the 2 features do not intersect. I am not ready for any testing so those trying let me know and I will tweak the design.
    Also the hollow / recessed version might suit the lighting feature better, as depending on the percentage of fill you will see the hexagon fill features on a solid version ????

    I'll try with the hollow one as well.

    The one issue I've had so far is that the unit is 152mm long, which is 2mm longer than my printer can handle. I don't care about the curve at the end of the lane, so I chopped off the last 13mm or so of the unit.

    Any particular reason other than aesthetics for the curved "nose" of the piece? If not, it may be easier to just go straight across. It would make cutting the pocket on the playfield easier, at least for me.

    #353 2 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    How would you cut the pocket with a straight end? Curved is way easier. Right width bit in your router and a single pass, boom done. So long as the curve at the matches the bit diameter.

    That's a very good point. Consider it a case of not seeing the forest for the trees. I was fixated on using a very small bit and a jig, and didn't even think of using a bit the same size as the end curve.

    #355 2 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    Do you want me to shorten for you. I was just rounding the design to 1inch wide x 6inches long so the Radius is 1/2" on the end curve to suit pinball's imperial design. I prefer mm but I can do a 1'' x 5 7/8" long so 25.4mm x 145.65mm. I can also just have 1/4" corners. You guys tell me and I will modify for you - no problems.

    No, don't modify the model yet. I swear I had some kind of stroke or something this morning. Having family in town for the holidays turned my brain into mush.

    I'll let you know how these next few prints come out. I'm messing with print orientation and infill to get a few samples of different styles. I'm going to print out a "light box" that I can lay them on to test different lighting effects as well. Now that 75% of the visiting family is out of the house, hopefully my brain goes back to normal.

    #361 2 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    what is your print bed size?
    just let me know and can adjust to suit the masses.

    150mm x 150mm x 150mm

    If I print it flat laying down, I can just turn it at a 45 degree angle on the build surface to fit it.

    #375 2 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    Just added a 5.5inch long version for you Wolfmarsh - reducing the overall length 1/2 inch and moving the 2 holes near the rounded end down by 1/2 inch - hope it helps.

    Thanks swinks. I'm gonna give the 5.5" one a few prints as well.

    I uploaded the light box I made to test lighting effects with, for the 6 inch version. I'll do one for the 5.5 inch and upload it as well. I linked it as a remix/inspired by to your shooter lane model.

    I've got a spool of crystal clear filament on the way, as well as some other translucent colors, so I can test lighting with that as well.

    I'm sitting here working on a PCB to send to OSHPark that would slip under the hollow version. I was going to do 9 RGB leds. 1 under the rounded tip, then 4 running down each side. Added a small atmel microcontroller to make it easier to tinker with.

    So far I've got 2 solids and 2 hollows printed, a set of each in white ABS and translucent orange PLA. Also got one of the lightboxes printed.

    #377 2 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    sounds cool, interested in one of those kits when you get it up and running

    The PCB with the lights/atmel on it? I'd be happy to send you a couple!!

    Once I get them back from OSHPark, I'll populate them, do some testing, post some videos, and PM you for your address. Maybe 2-3 weeks, depending on how fast OSHPark is with the holidays. I just had two other things go to fab pretty quickly right before, so hopefully it won't be too long of a wait.

    #380 2 years ago
    Quoted from GimpMaster:

    What pricing are you getting for OSHPark? How many layers? Silk top bottom?

    $14.70 for 3 boards, so less than $5 a piece.

    2 layers, silk screened.

    #384 2 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    here is a concept for people to consider for proto-typing a playfield or permanently using....
    Here is a concept for locating and fastening the various stainless steel ball guides around a pinball playfield. The concept is that you have your various lengths of stainless steel strips that are 1.2-1.3mm thick cut to 7/8" or 22.225mm high by what ever length so it slides into the gaps of the post and then fasten the post down into location. The post holds the stainless steel guide 1/8 inch up off the playfield allowing for light to pass under. The post is 27.4mm which is equal to a regular playfield post so it will fit under any plastics.
    The post is double sided so you can run 2 stainless steel strips close together with one post if you wish. One side is filleted a fraction more to allow the stainless steel strip to be curved when passing through.
    This post allows anyone to locate the stainless steel strips without needing to perform welding or riveting. Simply screw down from the top side with no need for L brackets etc.
    I designed and uploaded so a few people could progress on their project and currently I am not ready to test so please let me know if you think their should be any changes after test printing (3D Printing).
    here is the link for a free download
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:614197
    I will also upload to shape ways for those without a printer to order for your project.

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    Another cool idea man!

    I'm printing some of these out as well. I will actually get around to posting some pics of it all today and some makes on thingiverse.

    #397 2 years ago
    Quoted from fastpinball:

    Actually, didn't someone setup a Pinball Dev Dropbox? I could throw it in there also.

    One good place might be up on thingiverse, that way we can link right to the model and other people not on pinside can access them.

    Quoted from swinks:

    Edit 30-12-14 - I added a part A & B STL files so if you don't want to deal with supports and cleanup you can use the assembled version.

    Printing these now.

    #420 2 years ago

    My damn camera battery died, but not before I was able to snap a few pics of some of swinks's stuff I've printed.

    The ball guide parts separately:

    DSC01343 (Medium).JPG

    The ball guide parts stacked, they fit together well:

    DSC01344 (Medium).JPG

    Some of the shooter lanes I've printed. Top two are hollow, bottom two are solid.

    DSC01345 (Medium).JPG

    #424 2 years ago
    Quoted from 3rdaxis:

    Damn, i have to get a 3d printer. All i have is a Haas VF2 4 axis;)

    Haha, I had to google that model to see what kind of desktop mill it was. Wasn't expecting a full size mill with tool changer and everything, lol.

    #428 2 years ago
    Quoted from Linolium:

    Those plywood sheets are what I use from Home Depot. They work well. There's usually enough scrap left over for 2 side rails: 46" long 1.125" tall 0.5" deep (if you make a standard 20.25" width playfield that is)

    Whenever you are ready to start cutting and selling the blanks, let me know.

    I absolutely hate woodworking. I can do it, I just hate the mess. I've already promised myself before I do any more major woodworking that I am installing a big dust collection system in the shop.

    #431 2 years ago
    Quoted from Linolium:

    I should be able to cut you something around mid Jan. I'm a little busy the moment.

    I'm in no rush, even if it's summer. Just wanted to toss that out there again.

    #438 2 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    Edit 30-12-14 - I added a part A & B STL files so if you don't want to deal with supports and cleanup you can use the assembled version.

    Part A&B Asm.jpg 27 KB

    Hey swinks, I've been printing a bunch of these to mess with, really good stuff!

    I also printed a 1mm thick strip of ABS to use as a temporary guide instead of the steel. It is thin enough to bend, but thick enough to mess with a ball a little (it's probably not very durable).

    One thing that would be helpful would be to have another ball guide model, elongated in the direction of the pocket for the guide. Say 5mm wider, so there is room to butt two of these guide strips up to each other, in order to join them into a longer strip. Does that make sense?

    #455 2 years ago
    Quoted from Bonnevil69:

    Yes. Technically this thread derailed along time ago. Typical pinside. Get back to the minimum it takes to make a whitewood.

    I disagree.

    We are actively building a library of parts and techniques to find the easiest entry point to whitewoods.

    We've been exploring 3D printers as a way to get the basic necessities up faster and cheaper.

    Maybe I'm taking the point of the thread incorrectly, but I was hoping to end up with a list of parts and options for future people to run with. I also assumed that wouldn't just be a parts list from pinball life, but also some options for 3D printing, computer aided design, etc...

    #459 2 years ago
    Quoted from Bonnevil69:

    I just saw minimum in the title. To me. Minimum means bare necessities like average peoples garage. Most people don't have cnc machines or 3d printers. Or did it mean absolute minimum parts which would make cnc and 3d printed parts even more off subject. Not trying to be rude just helpful

    I don't know if people necessarily need 3D printers to benefit from the technology. Shapeways is always an option, as well as having someone like me print things for them. I would just charge the cost of materials. For example, if someone wanted a set of swinks ball guide posts, a couple shooter lanes, and some other stuff printed, they could either use shapeways or work out something with me/swinks/whoever to print them.

    One of the ways I am using to get to a whitewood is by making "dummies" of the different types of things that stick above a playfield.

    I want to be able to freely move them around my workbench while I tinker with ideas in my head. No balls needed yet, and no holes to cut. I just move them around like chess pieces.

    For example, here is a dummy of a 3-Bank motorized target I made. It's the same dimensions as the real one when it is up above the playfield.

    Swinks's ball guides are allowing me to move guides around my workbench easily as well, I just have them hot glued in place, but when i want to move them I just pop them off and stick them down somewhere else.

    I'll take a pic in a bit of what I've got going on. I am trying to also get the dimensions for inline drops, if you happen to have access to a metallica.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/need-measurements-for-metallica-drop-targets

    Dummy_3Bank.jpg
    #491 2 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    Update 3 - (1-1-15) - I added a Version 2 of the 2 part post for added grip for linking 2 x SS vertical ball guide strips. The post still has the same 13mm footprint but changing to square as opposed to round increases the clamping surface area to 2 ball guides.

    Got a set of four of these printing right now, I even used translucent orange to match your render color.

    1 week later
    #540 2 years ago
    Quoted from Linolium:

    I'm going to do a test cut within the next couple weeks.

    I'll also make a cut that uses his plunger-lane printable part.

    Heck yeah!

    #543 2 years ago
    Quoted from jwilson:

    I've added sections covering wireform creation, vacuum-forming, making color-coded wiring and a bunch of other stuff.
    Thanks to everyone who has helped source info and done some updating!

    Cool stuff, I can't wait to check it out this weekend. I signed up for an account, I'll contribute as time allows.

    1 week later
    #587 2 years ago
    Quoted from BloodyCactus:

    The problem with having a 'programming' page is, the hardware control system ties your hands. I dont think its the place to teach someone about the difference between a queue and a stack. This is where everyone will end up doing something different unless your using P-ROC.

    If your using PROC you have the example pyproc game to work with, otherwise, you program it like any other game, main loop, read switches, process input, twiddle the state machine.

    Since I'm using an embedded cpu (pic32) to do all my work, its plain embedded C using the Microchip PLIB libary, it wont be anything like anyone else does probably. My light board is custom, my solenoid board is custom, and both use embedded cpu's as well so they are all stand alone and independant of the main control board.

    I would probably delete everything off that page and just have some links to pyproc/linpinproc/mission framework/sdl/sfml. I dont think it needs links to Unity, Half Life, stacks, queus, uml, and all the other stuff on that page.

    This.

    I could show people how to code their game in any .NET language all day long. I'm not familiar enough with pyprocgame or the mission framework to be able to advise people on their use.

    #597 2 years ago

    Mission pinball framework has some really good documentation on how to get started with their stuff:

    https://missionpinball.com/docs/tutorial/

    #626 2 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    does anyone want a slingshot template ?

    Yes please!

    #646 2 years ago

    Linolium, where do you get your large format prints? I was thinking I was just going to use Kinkos or something.

    #649 2 years ago

    That's fantastic man. I love to see organized, clean work!!

    3 weeks later
    #699 2 years ago

    I haven't been able to touch anything remotely pinball related in a couple of weeks now. I had my laptop completely die, so getting a new one in and set up has completely wrecked productivity in the shop.

    3 weeks later
    #745 2 years ago

    The mission pinball framework is very impressive.

    4 weeks later
    #762 2 years ago
    Quoted from lachied:

    I have an executable that runs on the client and one that runs on the server. Both use WPF, all of it is C# and .net.
    Windows Presentation Foundation (or WPF) is a graphical subsystem for rendering user interfaces in Windows-based applications by Microsoft. (wikipedia)
    Caliburn.Micro is a lightweight framework with great support for MVVM applications (Model-View-ViewModel pattern). It has a built in event aggregator, automatic binding conventions between the View and the View Model, plus some other great stuff.
    Mass Transit is a service bus that I'm using for the communication between the client and server. It serializes my C# objects to Json and sends them between the 2 applications.
    As well as the 2 executables I have a couple of dlls...
    Common - Few common classes but mainly the Devices and objects that get sent between the server and client.
    DataContracts - Interfaces that define what will be sent between the server and client.
    ServerLibrary - The guts of the server side. Does all the talking to the pinball hardware.
    I've only seen Jersey Jacks LCD display in action on a pin so can't really say what support software they provide. If it is anything like what I am making it does sound quite interesting.

    You just gave me wood, and the only cure is more cowbell.

    1 month later
    #836 2 years ago

    I've figured out what I want to buy from someone.

    I want the bottom part of a playfield CNC'd with all of the "standard" holes, including lane inserts, between the flipper insert, etc....

    But I only want the wood to be long enough to get right past the entrances to the lanes. I'm going to build a side rail system on my playfield rotisserie that basically has the playfield in multiple pieces. That way I can keep messing with the upper part of the playfield without having to have a new lower piece.

    The only thing I can compare it to is like leafs in a dining room table. The leaf on the end is the standard playfield bottom, then I can swap out other panels as I fuck them up or improve them.

    Does that make sense?

    I put a red line on ecurtz's picture to show the piece I want. Everything below it, plus a bunch of holes that his pic doesn't have yet.

    406003_cut.jpg

    #845 2 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    that's not a bad idea actually, at least for a whitewood. once you get the lower half done, you worry about making mistakes because you're invested. About the only fix if you mess something up is to re-fill it with a matching piece of wood and level it. Hinges would only make minimal gaps (say 1/16"), and the gaps could be filled with a strip of rubber, or just use masking tape.

    Exactly!

    I don't even know that there would be a gap, I can easily model and 3D print some type of bracket/latch that keeps the center of the two pieces aligned vertically. The rails would clamp down on the sides keeping them aligned.

    It would definitely be easier to ship too. Someone please get on this! I'd like a modern Stern style setup.

    #857 2 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    If someone has a blown out modern Stern playfield they don't want, I can get probably 10 done every other week at work on the CNC machines.

    Anyone got one they would be willing to sell? I'd be willing to purchase it for a reasonable price.

    Better yet if anyone wants to donate or loan one for a bit, you'd be helping games like Spaceballs come to life.

    Maybe Jared could fine us one at Stern? Community relations could be letting us model after their layout and use their parts.

    #859 2 years ago

    I'm not above begging Stern. Worst they can do is say no.

    1 month later
    #911 2 years ago

    I've done a lot of fiberglass and Japanese tissue lay ups, so I have the experience to try, but I don't know anyone that prints on rice paper.

    #914 2 years ago

    Yeah, I'm not entirely sure how the layup would go. You would either have to precut the fiberglass somehow, or do the layup and try to route out the holes afterward.

    Just brainstorming, so this probably could be better, but I would probably do the layup on a clean sheet of plywood with just inserts in it and an uncut sheet of rice paper. I'd let the paper/glass/resin cure completely, then align a CNC by something on the artwork to do the playfield cuts. Then I would probably coat the whole thing with clear after the CNC routing.

    1 week later
    #951 2 years ago

    For what it's worth, here are my thoughts on P3/Lexi Lightspeed after playing it at SFGE a couple of weeks ago.

    I only played 1 game, so I did not get to experience much of the gameplay. What I did see of the gameplay was pretty neat. Seeing things like smoke trails from the ball on the LCD screen was a new experience. I wasn't playing it to see what Lexi Lightspeed was like though, I was playing it to check out the concept of having a ball tracking LCD as part of the playfield.

    The platform wants to be a pinball machine, but is definitely not a video game. I think it might have more success as something entirely new. A lot of this is off the cuff, so some (or all) may not stand up to scrutiny.

    The LCD concept feels like it is being held back by the need to hang onto things like slings, outlanes and inlanes. Come up with a new experience down on the bottom of the playfield as well, other than just the LCD. Why not eliminate outlanes in the traditional sense and redesign the apron so the flippers become part of the apron area versus a very industrial feeling linkage apparatus.

    Make it more than about the traditional pinball game. Go on a bender and play Mario Party for 2 days straight then write some mini-games on the platform. Make it a competitive thing. 4 player mini-games somehow tied to pinball skill.

    Again, just brainstorming, so you may have already thought of this stuff and I'm thinking I discovered the gas engine.

    tl;dr - The P3 has a lot of potential, but I think it's limited by the desire to make it a "real" pinball machine. What is a real pinball machine anyway.

    2 weeks later
    #989 2 years ago

    If I want to do foamcore ramps to test, what's the best way to do the transition between the whitewood and the ramp?

    I was thinking about just using a bead from the hot glue gun to provide the smooth transition, but wanted to ask opinions here.

    #992 2 years ago
    Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:

    I intend to use heavy weight cardstock (business card) like a ramp flap... no clue on how that will turn out

    Hmm, interesting thought.

    I was thinking maybe I just use an x-acto and try to trim the foamcore parallel to the surface of the whitewood where it needs to lay, but I think a ball would chew that up past 1 or two shots up it.

    #995 2 years ago
    Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:

    Once it's nailed down better, 3d printing a ramp entrance with some backing/mounting features on it for the foamcore would be trivial. (well as trivial as 3d printing is lol...

    I have no idea why I didn't think of it, but you are right. I'll model something I can print that serves as a ramp entry for foamcore.

    Vid's idea is probably the most viable, especially at the low price point. You could make hundreds of flaps from that roll.

    I'm gonna do the 3D printed one just to mess with because you peaked my curiosity.

    1 week later
    #1020 2 years ago
    Quoted from fastpinball:

    I love blue tape!
    image.jpg
    Aaron
    FAST Pinball

    There is a lot that I love about this picture, lol.

    #1024 2 years ago

    There's a lot of value in doing things completely in paper/foam/cardboard. It's cheap and won't cause any angst if you mess it up a dozen times.

    #1033 2 years ago
    Quoted from futurepinhead:

    What system is everyone using?

    I decided to go with FAST for Spaceballs. I had my own boardset 90% ready to go, but decided to set it aside and go with a retail solution. It wasn't an easy decision. I spent a lot of time working with a buddy of mine on the boards, and we ended up with something I was really proud of.

    Trouble was, I had basically flown myself to a very lonely island and was setting myself up for failure. My boardset and code would have been fine, I'm extremely competent there. I had screwed up by not building relationships and trying to isolate myself.

    I picked FAST over P-ROC because I got more fuzzy warm feelings from Aaron at FAST than I have anyone involved with the P-ROC stuff. They are both capable board sets, but I like what FAST is trying to accomplish and think they deserve to have a project like Spaceballs under their brand umbrella.

    Also, I hate Python. I plan on using the MPF, but I'll be writing a lot of stuff to go with it and enable it's functionality in .NET.

    #1035 2 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    I think it's smart to not reinvent the wheel when there are companies selling wheels. Then when you can't figure out how to add spinners to it later you're not stuck, because hopefully someone else has already tackled that problem.

    That's basically the conclusion I came to. I *could* do it alone, but that's just plain stupid and will take me twice as long. I had to remind myself this is supposed to be for fun and not work. I'd be lying if I said the whole JPop thing didn't play a part in that. I saw the crazy number of people we have in this hobby that are capable of helping and realized I was making as stupid a mistake as JPop by ignoring that.

    #1038 2 years ago
    Quoted from Bonnevil69:

    I kinda feel like there is a bit of animosity towards P-roc projects in this thread

    Sorry, I don't mean to make it that way. In fact, I reworded my post several times to try and not make it seem like I was bashing P-ROC while I justified my FAST choice.

    This is a thread about how to get a white wood up and running, and picking a piece of hardware is part of that, so I don't feel like it was too off-topic.

    #1042 2 years ago
    Quoted from gstellenberg:

    There are literally hundreds of custom machines

    Whoa! I know of a handful. Is there a list somewhere with links to their blogs/sites?

    #1054 2 years ago

    it's definitely cool we can even have this discussion about different platforms.

    Here's to seeing a bunch of games at shows powered by both systems!

    Spaceballs will debut at SFGE in 2016 as an example of what's capable with FAST.

    #1063 2 years ago

    I've got some great "screw ups" and stuff from Spaceballs. I'll post some tomorrow night when I'm back at my laptop.

    4 weeks later
    #1115 2 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    Terry just added a homebrew section!
    http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=378&pg=1

    I really like it!

    Terry, please add pre-cut playfield templates, sized properly and with the "italian" bottom or whatever the hell it's called already cut on it.

    I'm seriously *this* close to ordering a CNC router to cut my own. I can't do it with my hands, it will look like dog shit.

    #1129 2 years ago

    Swinks, that is EXACTLY what I need to cut my own. Damn man, that's excellent.

    1 month later
    #1163 2 years ago
    Quoted from BrianMadden:

    EDIT: RPi2 will also be able to run Windows 10 which is nice for "non-Linux" people. Haven't tried that yet though. (Actually I don't even know if it's available.) We'll get to that at some point though in the next few months and I'll post back here when we do.

    I was excited about this too, and I gave it a go. It's not a windows desktop, it's basically an IoT shell for the Pi 2.

    I get what they were going for, but it fell a little short of my hopes.

    #1173 2 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    Just curious, what would you use a more versatile GPIO for in a pinball? I'm ignorant when it comes to this topic, but I can't really think of a need for that kind of general purpose connector.

    You won't need to use the GPIO for pinball, the timing is hard to control anyway. If you are using FAST or PROC you just connect them via USB and off you go.

    My FAST Pinball Playground software runs on Pi 2 with no problems.

    #1176 2 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    Ah yeah, well I'd just pair it up with FAST hardware, so no need for that kind of direct hardware performance.

    When you get rolling on your stuff, there's a decent number of us that can help support you now too.

    By the time you start, I'll probably have released the FAST Playground for general use. Just got some tidying up I want to do, and I need to add support for some of the other boards I don't have access to yet.

    All that has to wait until after expo though. I've seen some of the stuff that the FAST crew is bringing to Expo, and I think you all will like it. The games are really moving along, and the MPF is growing up before our eyes. It's an exciting time for sure!

    #1178 2 years ago

    The Playground is just a piece of software that knows how to talk to the FAST hardware. It gives you a simple interface to do things like see switches triggering, set lights certain colors, and fire solenoids. It has some other features too, but the idea is to get you something that you can immediately tinker with, without having to set anything up. It even auto detects your FAST hardware for you.

    I think I posted an early screenshot in one of the FAST threads, but I use it constantly for sending raw commands or fiddling with the hardware.

    I've also begun the discovery process on a config wizard for MPF. The MPF team has given me some good suggestions of features to start with, but that's at least a month or two away from seeing the light of day.

    #1182 2 years ago
    Quoted from desertT1:

    So the FAST Playground is in addition to MPF? Or is it an alternative, but just for saying 'fire solenoid 4' for testing purposes? A config wizard for MPF would be nice as I'm a mechanical person and could probably get a basic config set up, but entering values for number of lights/switches/coils would be one less thing for me to mess up.

    It's in addition to MPF. The playground is just a quick way for someone who received their hardware to play with it out of the box, without setting anything game related up. It's just a supporting tool to use when building a pinball game based on FAST hardware. The playground only works with FAST stuff.

    I find it helpful to fire up the playground and just send test stuff or test my wiring without getting near game code.

    The config wizard is the complement to MPF that will hopefully give people who don't want to mess with the actual config files a more visual way to set up their game. It won't be capable of creating complex game logic, but people who want to go that far will need to learn some coding anyway. Since the config wizard is a complement to the MPF, it will work on any platform that the MPF supports. (PROC and FAST)

    #1193 2 years ago

    With the RPi you have to be conscious of media loading times from the SD card.

    It doesn't have enough memory to preload 1080p clips, so there is always some lag in starting a video and getting the initial stream from the SD card. At least, that was my experience when I tried it.

    #1199 2 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    I just wonder at that price point if you wouldn't be better off with a NUC or something. Once I'm paying that kind of money I'm looking at better GPU etc.

    I'm kinda with you on that.

    For just slightly more you could get something that is modular (motherboard, processor, memory, vid card) so individual parts can be upgraded as needed.

    That new Beaglebone X15 is certainly cool, but it seems like a decent chunk of the new price is spent in areas that don't really benefit a pinball game.

    The draw of the Pi is that it's $40 for the most powerful one, and that could certainly run a DMD game.

    I've been through a lot of processors for Spaceballs, in the end I came back to the standard PC. It helps that I have a bunch of extra ones lying around, so that influenced it a little bit.

    #1202 2 years ago
    Quoted from BloodyCactus:

    I'm using a viewsonic 19" 1912M, lcd giving 1366x768 (17"x10" if you include the bezel, I have not decased it yet).

    I'm running a 19" TV with 1360x768, very similar to yours. Cool.

    #1205 2 years ago
    Quoted from Fifty:

    I'm not trying to be an ass. I guess I'm just hoping the thread will revert to basics again. Please!

    Hopefully it will get back there, I think we are just waiting now for someone to reach the point of making the parts available.

    Right now, there is no user story around how to get the actual whitewood together, mainly the CNC/cutting. A couple of us are about to enter the CNC world, my machine should be here in late November. I'd be willing to sell CNC cut bottoms to give people a starting point.

    I think finding a supplier of those is step #1, or very close to it.

    #1207 2 years ago
    Quoted from yaksplat:

    CNC? pfft....just give me a router and some insert templates to rout to.

    I've been tempted, but I'm a really bad woodworker!

    If I don't do CNC, it will come out crooked and looking like a 4 year old made it, lol.

    1 week later
    #1230 2 years ago

    I've been working on a 3D printed trough I call the infinity trough.

    I'll post some pics Sunday, I'm traveling right now.

    #1268 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mocean:

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Archimedes-screw_one-screw-threads_with-ball_3D-view_animated_small.gif

    This is probably a good place for me to start, because I tried it a few months ago.

    Archimedes_Screw_Trough.jpg

    The problem with this model is that the ball can still be at an indeterminate place and there's no real simple way to say "yes, a ball is in position X".

    I moved on to a dual auger system that allowed me to move balls up and down a very closely sized channel.

    I started by printing a set of test pieces to check for fit:

    trough_fit_test1.jpg

    Once I was happy with that I made the first, hand powered prototype:

    trough_concept_1_1.jpg

    trough_concept_1_2.jpg

    For the next revision I decided to change to a better form factor, include a stepper motor, and have some type of feeder designed to feed the track.

    First up was a test of the new form factor:

    trough_fit_test2.jpg

    Then I moved on to making the parts for the next real test, a stepper powered auger with the capability to also back up balls to the trough. The balls are detected in positions on the track, the augers are intended to go the entire length of the track to the exit, I just haven't printed them yet.

    I'm working on the PC for Spaceballs right now, but once I've got that up, my next piece to work on is getting this newest design turning through software.

    infinity_trough_new_version_parts.jpg

    infinity_trough_new_version.jpg

    infinity_trough_closeup.jpg

    #1271 2 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    I mean, augers are very cool, but what's the advantage over a simple gravity fed trough?

    For Spaceballs, I wanted to handle more than just a handful of balls, and also be able to transport them up the playfield a bit against gravity. The design is intended to be printed in as many segments as you need, not just the 4-ball trough pictured.

    This design requires no solenoids or mechanical switches and also with a pretty high degree of certainty knows when it has dispensed a ball. At least, that's the goal.

    #1291 2 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    But I dunno, wonder what would happen if you ran the auger at a pretty High Speed.

    That was part of my experimentation with the larger archimedes one. Once you ramped up the speed, the balls were not happy just sitting at the bottom, sometimes they went up and over.

    The dual auger can be run pretty dang fast. A very similar design is used in high speed paintball loaders.

    #1294 2 years ago
    Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:

    Wow been awhile since I was in that hobby...

    I actually know nothing about paintball as a hobby/sport. All I learned about their loaders was from mining their patent data.

    #1298 2 years ago

    Mine still has a pretty high chance of failure. I just don't post all the failures, a lot of them I keep to myself.

    Fail fast, fail often. Don't be scared.

    #1323 2 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    I actually think the way more interesting part to talk about is drop target assemblies.

    A 3D printable assembly that uses a servo for reset would be magical. Someone do it.

    #1325 2 years ago

    I bet you could still have the spring and shelf for ball hit down, along with servo motions that can both lift the target and also push it back off the shelf to have it drop down. It would take an interesting cam or something, but it could be done I think.

    #1328 2 years ago

    Dude, that's awesome!

    #1345 2 years ago

    It's always fun to play "what if".

    I've dreamed about how I would live on mars without any intention of actually doing it.

    1 month later
    #1366 1 year ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    BREAKING NEWS: Scott Danesi is a bad ass.
    http://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=611

    That's awesome!

    #1373 1 year ago

    I'm currently watching scott's stuff closely. I just got an X-Carve as well and I'm deciding between lengthening it or doing what Scott is trying to do. I will do so few playfields, I don't know if it's worth lengthening, but it sure would make cutting them easier.

    1 week later
    #1391 1 year ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    It's Windows-only. I could run it in a VM maybe, but not sure how performance would look. I don't bother keeping a Windows machine around anymore myself.

    You work for Ars. Even if you just have macs, you should have Windows in Fusion or Parallels.

    #1406 1 year ago

    Awesome job Compy!!!!

    #1410 1 year ago
    Quoted from Edenecho:

    Hmm I see. At one point I think ill need to make a model in CAD or similar, but maybe it is easier and cheaper just to use forstner bits and do the cutting work myself, on early revisions of the whitewood?

    I think a decent number of people have cut their play fields by hand. Pinsider Rosh is one of them.

    That will work if you have the skill to do it by hand. I'm not one of the people that does though, lol, so CNC for me.

    2 weeks later
    #1429 1 year ago

    Spaceballs has a inverted u-turn like Who Dunnit does. It loads the balls up into the physical ball lock in Spaceball One.

    #1436 1 year ago
    Quoted from rosh:

    Still waiting on photos of your progress, have not seen you post anything lately -- so yes, I'm calling you out on this

    Been running the X-Carve a decent amount lately, cutting out stuff.

    » YouTube video

    #1438 1 year ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    nice work, how deep is each cut?
    generally the depth of each cut = diameter of the cutter
    so if using a 1/4" cutter you can cut 6mm to 6.35mm deep

    I'm just learning, so I set it at 2mm.... I had no clue what the rule of thumb was, thanks man.

    I'll probably start going deeper slowly and get a feel for what the machine can handle.

    #1440 1 year ago

    Thanks for the info!! I don't know any of that, I'm a complete novice in the CNC world.

    I bought Fusion 360 as my software, and it lets me control all the stuff you mentioned. Can't wait for this weekend to give another cut a go.

    Thanks again swinks!

    #1443 1 year ago
    Quoted from rosh:

    Assume you started with the back box to learn how to use the X-carve.

    Yep!

    Quoted from rosh:

    Have you extended the X-carve to be able to do 4'?

    Not yet, but that's my plan (maybe). After seeing Scott's success at it, I'm thinking I'll give his method a go first.

    #1445 1 year ago
    Quoted from rosh:

    looking forward to seeing someone do that, while Scotts' method is a great work around, obviously being able to avoid doing that and the challenges of it would be ideal (although would require more physical space).
    Did come across this page (and bookmarked it for future reference) on doing it, no clue if it is helpful or not.
    https://discuss.inventables.com/t/expanding-the-x-carve-size-bigger-then-1000x1000mm/14816/11

    Haha, I have the same one bookmarked.

    I'm probably going to extend it, because the table I built to sit it on was built for the full size I want it to be.

    As a side note, anyone got a WPC apron they would sell to me cheap? Like $10 cheap?

    1 month later
    #1488 1 year ago

    Anyone got the dimensions for the square hole that stern uses for their 30 degree kickout?

    Looks like this:

    gbhole_(resized).jpg

    1 week later
    #1497 1 year ago

    Who is JWilson on the pinball makers site?

    #1499 1 year ago
    Quoted from jwilson:

    Me.

    Hey man, thanks for everything you've uploaded!!

    Is there anyway you can re-upload the WPC cabinet dimensions? I can't make out what a few of them are.

    #1501 1 year ago
    Quoted from jwilson:

    I don't recall where I got it from. If you keep clicking it eventually blows up to a somewhat readable size. I'll look around to see if I can find a more readable one.

    I actually don't need it for me, but I struggled a few times trying to read them which prompted me to ask. I eventually worked out the dimensions I needed from something someone else gave me.

    I thought about updating the png of it, but the one I was given has slightly different dimensions. I don't know which is correct so I didn't update it on pinballmakers.

    1 month later
    #1529 1 year ago
    Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

    More updates if you guys are curious about the Total Annihilation build.
    http://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=714

    Dude that's sweet!!!

    3 weeks later
    #1548 1 year ago
    Quoted from GimpMaster:

    Just ordered my XCarve. Excited to get it and play.

    I really like mine! I hope you like yours as much!

    3 weeks later
    #1556 1 year ago
    Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

    It's alive!!!
    http://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=733

    The game looks awesome man. You are plowing through it!!

    2 months later
    #1607 1 year ago
    Quoted from oohlou:

    Is reworking an existing playfield like this a good idea or should I just start from scratch?

    I see nothing wrong with cutting your teeth on an existing playfield that you retheme.

    I've spent a lot of time working out what lane guides work well with specific slingshot geometry and where the flippers have to go, etc.... You get the benefit of not having to worry about a lot of that stuff. You also get the benefit of having a ton of mechs already mounted and ready to go.

    When I was starting Spaceballs, I had the opportunity to buy a Striker Xtreme for $1000 and use that as a basis for the machine, getting a cab, mechs, etc... out of it. I chose not to, and I wish I had. I may not have ended up using that stuff in the end, but it would have bootstrapped me to the "fun" parts, layout and software. I put fun in quotes because I actually enjoy the entire process from doing the CAD work to doing the wiring. It just takes a lot of time to sit down and figure it all out.

    #1630 1 year ago

    I used power bus strips. Buy them at Adafruit: https://www.adafruit.com/products/737

    I put the power supplies on a board so I could move the "power unit" to and from the workbench easily. It came in handy a bunch.

    mpx8FAE_(resized).jpg

    #1636 1 year ago
    Quoted from rosh:

    Be nice if the blocks were smaller, meaning the diameter of the openings, they are way, way too big for the size wiring we use, heck, they are way to big for any wiring I have every used, for anything.

    Too big for the wiring *you* use. Works great for my design.

    I have large connectors after the terminal blocks as well.

    It goes Power Supply -> terminal blocks -> umbilical with connectors -> playfield/cabinet/etc....

    Every single mech in the machine has its own molex connector.

    #1639 1 year ago

    There are so many options for displays, giving advice on hardware interfaces for them is almost impossible unless you know which one you specifically want to use.

    The easiest options, in my opinion, are either a RGB DMD that connects via USB, or a LCD that uses HDMI/VGA out from the computer.

    In any of those cases, I would recommend giving MPF a shot. As fantasygoat mentioned, it works with OPP and is a really solid framework. The work that has gone into it even in the past 6 months is just astounding.

    #1641 1 year ago
    Quoted from desertT1:

    I found that my local ACE had some 21-point grounding busses. I picked up 2 and cut one down on the bandsaw to match my needs somewhere. I found that 18 and 22 were both a little loose. What I ended up doing is taking the bare wires and folding them back over so it looks almost like the hook on a walking stick, but a little tighter. That made all the difference and now the wires are very secure.

    Don't be afraid to put more than 1 wire in each hole as well.

    #1652 1 year ago
    Quoted from rosh:

    If for some reason i want to remove power to just part of the machine, easy to do just unhook the one wire and not have to worry about putting the others back in, ensuring good contact, etc.

    I put connectors inline to deal with that. Here is a really precise diagram I drew up of the setup.

    I did it this way so the playfield harness was an actual harness that could be removed on its own and worked on. Every mech has it's own connector in addition to the main ones on the umbilicals.

    Every pin in every connector is crimped then lightly soldered. Seems like a majority of people who do hand crimps don't understand making a crimp "gas tight" or even have the proper tools to do it. It's very hard to do properly with hand tools, in my experience.

    super_excellent_wiring_diagram (resized).jpg

    #1656 1 year ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Once you finalize your terminal blocks, do you plan to replace them with something else to provide a more permanent connection?

    Yeah, that's the plan.

    One of the reasons I'm trying to make it so modular is because I know I've got the bug for custom games now, and Spaceballs won't be my last. Knowing that, it will be nice to be able to borrow already built modules from Spaceballs to work on other games without having to duplicate everything right off the bat.

    #1659 1 year ago

    If you are going to be making a whitewood, you'll need some software. One of the options is Mission Pinball Framework at http://www.missionpinball.com.

    It's free, it's open source, and it's awesome.

    Why not get a Mission Pinball Framework shirt or hoodie to show support for homebrew pinball? Only a week left to get this design.

    These are great quality shirts and should arrive by September 15th, 2016.

    https://teespring.com/mission-pinball-framework-2016

    black-hoodie (resized).png
    grey_longsleeve (resized).png
    darkblue-t (resized).png

    #1668 1 year ago

    You don't need to be into MPF to have a new pinball shirt. It's just a fun shirt.

    Thanks to Aurich and others that have purchased, you guys rock.

    2 weeks later
    1 month later
    #1698 1 year ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    OPP boards can already do that. Problem is you need to assemble a small board and program a driver to define the delay of the PWM.

    If anyone in here needs a board assembled and programmed, I'll be glad to do it for you for free.

    Just mail me the OPP stuff and I'll set it up for you along with an MPF config to have a little board for flipping.

    #1700 1 year ago
    Quoted from desertT1:

    Could you check my work at some point? I'm confident in the board, and maybe even the MPF config, but combining them may require a little troubleshooting. I'm just doing a single solenoid wing for now to get the flippers and slings going.

    Yeah, for sure. Let's talk about it here in the thread to help other people get started up too.

    1 week later
    #1712 1 year ago
    Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

    Diodes are not needed for P-ROC systems, but I cannot speak for the others.

    Not required for FAST either.

    Although, in my engineering opinion is it more optimal to have the flyback diodes as close to the coil as possible, so in Spaceballs all the coils have diodes on them as well.

    With diodes only at your boards, your wiring becomes an antenna during flyback.

    #1717 1 year ago

    You guys will probably never have problems either. I'm pretty sure none of the other FAST guys diode up their coils like I do.

    I'm just the weird one.

    2 months later
    #1777 10 months ago
    Quoted from rosh:

    True, but as we have both pointed out, you then need to go track down the rest of the parts from other suppliers, including the needed coil bracket, which I don't think Mantis carries.

    I believe the kit comes with all of that.

    A lot of the FAST users have already been using the prototype WMS trough setup. It uses the mantis trough with FAST opto boards.

    The trough package is up on the FAST website:

    https://squareup.com/market/fast-pinball-llc/item/fast-ball-opto-trough

    #1780 10 months ago
    Quoted from Mbecker:

    Has everyone diy'd their own rotisseries? I'm at the point of needing one and seeing various versions/ways of making it. I assume there's no reason to buy one rather than make it other than saving labor time.. any consensus on best design that's out there or thoughts on it?

    I used the general design vid posted in this thread:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-quick-and-dirty-rotisserie-guide

    I've also been a big fan of the look of SkyPilot's design:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sky-pilots-rotisserie-plans

    4 months later
    #1794 6 months ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    Maslow, $350 vertical 4x8 CNC kit
    » YouTube video
    http://www.maslowcnc.com/

    Total piece of garbage, imo.

    #1797 6 months ago

    With their base model, you get no Z-axis, so it would be pretty impossible to do a lot of what you would want to do for pinball without a lot of manual steps and pauses.

    #1801 6 months ago

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