You can water cut polycarb

for lighting effects would be different because without separate inserts it would bleed light over the artwork. In some cases that could be interesting. a 2nd layer of opaque below the clear with cutouts for the inserts might help control it a bit

Close to what I was thinking, I think the playfield and any small scratches might work like a lightpipe does. Think older style BMW LED Ring headlights (Acrylic tube with small cuts, the rough plastic of the cuts carries most of the light)

I'm interested in the P3 however think for my first pin from scratch, I want to focus on getting in the basics. Down the road, I can see wanting to give it a try and the value in creating a package that can be shared with others in a limited run.

While not ready to build my first whitewood yet, i've been looking over ebay parts to size up what it would cost to buy and rebuild used parts. However, I would hope to offer a kit long term, if there's interest, in my machine, so think sourcing new parts makes sense.

Has anyone looked into this? I'm thinking of things like entire drop target assemblies, VUK's, entire pop bumper assemblies. I also feel some obligation to leave the remaining spares to those who are building a specific machine. Sure I can grab 3 used pop bumpers from ebay but then somone wanting those for a rehab is out original parts. I guess is the car guy in me that makes me sympathetic.

Anyone have any thoughts? Suggestions? Maybe there's an opportunity to get a group/buy on the basic set up of parts from a vendor.

From what I've seen, I can part up to a complete assembly piecemeal but haven't found entire assemblies available.

The worry here is so much is out of stock and game specific. If I'm going to pirate parts used is cheaper, maybe. However am I depleting finite stock that could be preserving vintage games? My thinking here is to maybe ID in this forum parts that are new stock that's not robbing Peter to pay Paul. If I want a single drop target assembly I don't want to take the 'Space Shuttle' specific ones if I can find new (not NOS). I'm not sure how to tell which is which. I also might not feel bad taking the last used space shuttle or Centaur drop target assemblies off eBay if I know new replacement parts are available.

On my list to-do would be contacting Marco/BAM/PBL to ask which parts are currently manufactured vs NOS.

Casting in fiber glass, injection molding, or vacuum forming?

Thanks Vid. That is good to know and if I had a preference that is where I was headed used or new without better options. It sounds like for the common parts at least its the way to go.

I don't have any desire to manufacture machines, however if I go through the process of designing a game and making my own art for a playfield, I would love to share it, so screening a few extra playfields and selling them so others can make their own seems viable as long as the parts are available.

I agree and intend too, I'm not looking to re-invent pinball. I'm an artist and custom guy, so I find it hard to leave anything stock. My goal is to make a few machines over time that I want for myself. I'll leave it open source and maybe sell a few silk screened play fields so others can have their own should they want to put in the time, presuming there's any interest. Keeping the parts simple helps make that reasonable and plays in to my skill set.

My goal is to make a simple 80's style SS, no toys, or complex ramps, or DMD. A starter home brew using the KISS (keep it simple, stupid) approach. Put in the things that I like on a playfield, try to make it feel fresh as I can make it, and get over the hump of programing a basic rule set, lights, and sound. Then take on more complex parts in future builds when I have a strong base.

A centaur style inline set is exactly what I had in mind. Thanks Vid

The Fast boards, if you buy outside of the package allows the builder to scale up as they develop, buying the minimum components and adding daughter or other boards based on needs as the layout/design matures. Both can use MFP which is what I plan to use. Its almost a Ford/Chevy comparo. I'm going with Fast. I saw their demo/discussion at CAX and the NW show on youtube and like their approach and want to support more options than Proc.

Seems like a nice way to 'sketch' designs with actual size components. On paper that right ramp might not appear to need so much elevation, however put in the stand-ins and you can see how much elevation it actually consumes. That's useful IMO. I can see working through quite a few changes in this kind of sketch up mode before actually committing to a flippable version and drilling into the test wood.

The only way to solve that dilemma is to have someone build with both platforms and share the comparison. My recommendation is send me two free setup kits, I'll build the same machine with both and tell everyone about it! Problem solved for everyone!

Seriously i would like to see a FUN showdown between the two to settle it. Key would be keeping it light but neutral. However where do you find someone sick enough to want to build the same machine twice and not question their sanity and in turn their opinion!

That's either a horrible bad idea, or a new reality tv show, I have no clue.

Although I have yet to try to build a machine, I still stand by my first idea as best! Free boards for me..oh yeah and a comparison... eventually... probably.

It looks like solid progression, I wouldn't give up if its a feature you want, that looks like its half the fun. Once you have the paper version sorted out, you also have the template for the metal, so its a win/win.

Here's a suggestion. you probably don't need a solid edge to get it to work enough to decide on the size, so instead of a complex and hard to build side wall, create the edge from folded up tabs. Basically cut tiny triangles pointy side toward the run of the ramp, out every 1/2 inch, I'd also maybe put a flexible thin sheet of styrene as a backer for the loop portion, that will firm up the shot and prevent wiggle. You could do the same with a flat piece of metal but it may hold some memory of the shape as you alter. either way it looks like the egde is the time consuming part and that's how I'd tackle it.

If there is a group purchase, I'd be in for a pair, maybe more.

If your buying new, I'd put it closer to 5-600 bucks, but the best part is you can, buy it as you go, or save some by salvaging parts from a well worn populated playfield.

Even if you buy the complete flipper mech from Marco (50-80 bucks each), you still need bats and bushings, buttons, switches, screws and bolts.

As you work out the layout, other things to consider, switches, steel wire or banding for guides, inserts, sockets, bulbs, wire (lots of it and in different colors), pop bumper, drop target, spinner etc... as you design. I personally would add 2-3 pop bumpers in as standard for testing. The rest you can mock up with foam, but ultimately you'll want to test hitting and ejecting from a pop bumper to tune placement, and you can't do that without an actual bumper.

What's nice is you don't need to buy it all at once if your on a budget.

If you buy a populated playfield, you can get a great 'starter' set of little bits and pieces, but you might push it pretty close to new prices if the parts are worn and need to be rebuilt.

I'm keeping track of mine and will tally up when I do my cuts in the fall when I can get back to work on it. I'll share here.

Agree, think it depends on the pin your salvaging from, I'll have to compare more between pinball life and marco, wonder if the coil size has anything to do with it, or if its patent costs that varies parts costs.

Excellent work! Very clearly written and exactly what I needed to get started with my OPP boards from the kickstarter!

Agree! The boards are a clever DIY solution but until now it was very loosely presented. Finally thanks to Fantasy Goat I have something a bit more at my level I can start working from.

Cost for me was a driver, I can fry and make mistakes now almost entirely without fear! That does a lot for experimentation.

Good write-up and double thanks for the Jokerz info as that's one of my machines on the chopping block.

Great job. Likely its more cost effective and maybe more durable to make these in bulk in metal, however if your building for your self, no reason not to try, and if it does break, you can print a replacement part. No MFG is going to do that, parts are business just the same. It also seems a bit bulkier (but that might be because of the thicker material) so might needs some design tweeking in tight spots under the playfield.

Keep us updated with design changes and updates. I'd like to have one like JJ Hobit that have the drop/bash combo and can reset individually. I'll have to try that when I get my own 3D printer. My guess is the first spot to show wear might be those spring holders. Wonder too what different materials do holding up, or if you'll see shrinkage over time of the part that sometimes happens with 3D prints.

Its nice to have a piece to follow now!

Very nice design. I think maybe there's room for a separate class of rotisserie, a prototyping rotisserie. This seems to be purpose built to that end over a restoration repair version that's more common today which I like quite a bit.

Great to see another Ben Heck machine is on its way.

I would think that you could cut rings or wooden templates to match thickness and get rigidity underneath for pop bumpers or other mechs, that could carry from foam core to foam core iteration. So you keep the under parts and can tweak the top part for testing.

Without shopping around much, I could find a couple places with that size board for around 50-60 bucks a 10pk carton. That's actually very cost effective.