(Topic ID: 112929)
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London, ON
Quoted from swinks:it has some interesting features - nice work, is the a flipper in the very top centre for the playfield level or for a extra higher playfield? or a gate for a top ramp?
Thanks!
It's a diverter on a ramp. It opens up when the bathtub is ready.
Makes more sense here: http://www.incitti.com/pinball/nightmare/
Quoted from LapsedGamer:Looks great, can you talk about your process a little more? What did you lay the blue print out in, did you use a drill press for correct depths? Any special technique for the square and diamond insert routing?
I followed a few threads on the P-ROC boards.
Namely this one by Josh - http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=843.0
I made a virtual version in FuturePinball. From that I generated the blueprint.
For the square, diamond and arrow inserts I made templates. The templates were larger than the inserts so I could follow inside with a router using a 5/16 bushing. It was something like 5/16 divided by 2 + 1/8 (drill bit size) bigger. Bit of trial and error on some spare plywood. I adjusted the depth of the router to be just less than the height of the inserts. Bit of sanding got them flush.
For the circle inserts I used a forstner bit. I just drilled down a bit, then stopped, checked, repeat, until it was close to flush. Could have used a press to make it easier.
Quoted from BobLangelius:MarkInc,
I'm trying to draw up some inserts in Solidworks and i thought i might include a sketch to represent the routed hole in the playfield. I noticed the inserts have a good bit of taper on the sides. Did the inserts want a tight fit, line to line fit, or a little loose?
The large amount of taper made me wonder if a tight fit might allow you to press fit the inserts into the PF, so they might hold themselves while the glue dries...
Thoughts?
Bob
Bob, Ideally you want the insert holes to be as close to the insert as possible.
I used 1 inch round inserts and made a hole using a 1 inch forstner bit. The inserts were snug, but I think the bit of wobble in the drill made the holes slightly bigger for an easier fit.
1 month later
I've uploaded all my pictures to flickr and created a new topic for my game:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-nightmare-before-christmas#post-2420377
10 months later
7 months later
I'm running on 70V and FAST. I kept the diodes on my flippers and added one to my magnet. Haven't had any issues with them on. Dave from FAST recommended them - he's all about reducing noise and collapsing electrical wave thingies.
Switches are all direct - so no diodes there.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Edenecho:Some more wooden borders hammered on, and also I bought 6 quite large plates of expofoam, and started cutting my first ramp.
But I wonder if some of you have some good tips on working the foamcore? It was much harder than I thought, and as you can see from my first ramp part attempt, I would need to make the left part more upward/straight, but that would just "break" it in two, making it a very unsmooth bulky ramp.
All tips appreciated. Also, what is the best approuch making ball lanes for loops etc, does foamcore work good for that too?
Seems I might encounter the same challenge, which is getting it smooth enough.
I use matboard for my ramps. like this: http://www.dickblick.com/products/crescent-select-conservation-solids-matboard/
If you ask at a picture framing place, they might have some old stuff they need to get rid of.
Easy to work with, flexible, but strong when sides are attached.
I cut out the bottom piece first, then long strips (1.5 inches wide) I attach with duct tape.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/132886609@N02/albums/72157675474724346
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