I could be interested in this, depending on the total cost ofc. Live in norway.
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Hi guys,
ill post here soon regarding buying assemblies for a custom flipper, but if you want to chime in my post regarding P3-ROC or FAST pinball, please check it here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-game-p3-roc-or-fast
Quoted from Aurich:Gerry, can you please stop trying to drive people to your forum in my thread? It's kind of rude man. Pimp your product all you like, you're a huge supporter of DIY pinball and I love it, but I'm trying to generate discussion here, on Pinside, about this stuff. And you're trying to suck it away to your own sandbox.
By all means, if you want to go to Gerry's forum to learn and talk, you should. But I'm hoping to foster a cool conversation here.
21 pages so far, and I hope this is just the start and we keep seeing new projects!
I didnt mean to start a major discussion on FASt vs PROC in this thread, sorry it if seemed that way. That is what my other thread is for. It was just a sortof pre-requisite for the posts I will post here about my project.
Quoted from Aurich:FAST vs PROC is all good! The owners of the companies talking up their products is all good! Gerry is totally welcome here.
I just don't want to see this cool little thing we have going get fragmented off. If you want to post over on that forum of course you should feel free, I'm not your mom. But if you have questions and Gerry is reading, why not post them here so we can all learn?
Absolutely, I like the manufacturers answering and giving their opinions too. btw "That is what my other thread is for" was referring to the other thread I made here on pinside
Thanks Toyotaboy,
Yeah I fear I might get to exaclty where you mean, with fear of cutting, but ill deal with it when I get there
I though of buying mostly Stern assembies from Marcos', since Im going for a "stern"-ish machine and therefore I can keep to the Stern parts. Do you have anything of that spare? Marco has insane shipping overseas so would be great if it can be bought from other places.
One question regarding my next course of action on the plywood:I read through this whole topic again, but I could not find much information/ideas for the optimal way of printing the blueprint onto the plywood. Was it printing it on vinyl sticker, and then just sticking it on? Or does it involve more? Any other personal experiences for the easiest way of doing this?
I will then drill out the holes for the lower part.
So basically just tape it temproarily fore xample on the edges, drill,and then remove afterwards.
Only issue is that i need the blueprint for knowing where to place foamcore ball guide lanes, ramps, and so on... do you do all this with the paper blue print taped on?
Quoted from fastpinball:I love blue tape!
image.jpg
Aaron
FAST Pinball
what was the purpose of this mockup Aaron? Just curious as i dont see aby actual assemblies, so it does not help in testing shots or might i be wrong?
Nice section, I just thought of a question:
If you look at the assembly page http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=394&pg=1 ,
It struck me.. what is the difference between Shooter Lane Auto Kicker Assembly, and Sega/Stern Auto Plunger Arm Weld Assembly ?
On my Mass Effect game I have settled on a plunge-button, like MM, and not a plunger. Which of the above would be the correct to use?
I guess the Williams one is the best option, thanks for the input
I assume it is down to the coding to actually trigger it when pressing a designated "Plunge"-button triggering a switch.
So, tiny steps but progressing. Got the first playfield blueprint printed on "normal" paper yesterday, and it was a special feeling laying it out and seeing it in 1 size.
A quick question; I might have asked earlier but there are so many pages here in this thread:
Glue the paper to plywood, or just fasten it in the corners with thumbtacks and after drilling the necessary holes etc, then maybe remove the paper and start working with the foamcore and guides? or just glue stuff onto the paper and test with the paper on?
Also; starting to set up a shopping list of the lower playfield parts. I am looking at different Stern flipper assemblies, and get a little confused what the rpactical difference is between these?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=Flipper+assembly+stern
I am looking at the flipper assemblies on for example Iron Man and Batman, and they have a coil with no diode installed. Is this because of a way stern has designed their boards, and is this relevant to me having for either FAST or P-roc boards?
Quoted from toyotaboy:You could also use a light coating of gel medium to transfer the outline directly onto the wood (and again, sand when you're done).
Gel medium, havent heard of that before, care to elaorate? The best thing would be to get the print directly on the plywood somehow
Quoted from toyotaboy:Btw, the widths of the entrance ramps look very narrow. Keep in mind that's ok if the ball fits, but it will be really tough to make the shots. Might want to consider making the entrances wider and then narrow them down.
Dont worry, I own a X-Files.... No but maybe, I have testplayed it in future pinball (for what its worth..) and the ball goes in there, althought it is a narrow fit. I will keep it in mind when playtesting and maybe make some different entrance with foamcore
Quoted from toyotaboy:http://www.walmart.com/ip/Liquitex-Gloss-Acrylic-Gel-Medium/24457519
» YouTube video
Skip the modge podge step (you don't need to seal it, they are only reference lines). Also make sure you print a mirrored copy since it will mirror when you transfer.
went to a hobbyshop today and found something similar, although I noticed for this to work my playfield blueprint has to be mirrored. So, I will keep this in mind for the next iteration as it is costly to print this size too often
Quoted from rosh:I've done this multiple times with success. I use a 3m spray adhesive that pulls off pretty easily and in spots it doesn't I use goo gone, let it soak the paper for a minute and it scrapes off easily. I'll pull off sections as needed.
I've added 'guide lines' to my printouts, this way if I decide to re-work a section I can just update my cad drawing and then just printed that section on 8.5x11 and use the guide lines to glue over the original section. I do the guidelines about every 7 inches, this insures that any 8.5x11 print of a playfield section will have a guide line in each direction.
Good tip with the guidelines
For now I will have to try with the adhesive spray glue I think, but will see to it after the weekend. For now i just cut the playfield to proper size and stuck it to the plywood with some small thumb tucks/nails. It fits!
Pardon my noobness:
When sending a playfield file for CNC'ng, how is it done with regards to the inserts, as they have to be "2-level", with the upper cut wider then the through-cut?
Does the file contain a 3d version of the playfield, or can a cnc machine also cut from a 2d above-view?
Hmm I see. At one point I think ill need to make a model in CAD or similar, but maybe it is easier and cheaper just to use forstner bits and do the cutting work myself, on early revisions of the whitewood?
Trying to get a little further on my own project, and while saving up cash for FAST boards etc, it is still some (or much) time away before I really need it. That made me think, that for the first stage of plywood + foamcore mockup, i ONLY need two flippers working, to test shots. This is maybe easy enough to setup so it motivates me to move the project along, so since this is the "minimum" thread:
What is the MINIMUM needed for making two flippers activate?
- 2xFlipper mechs
- Raspberry pi ?
- ?
Quoted from toyotaboy:Then you need something that will safely pull 48v. Some sort of simple logic board that can turn a FET on/off, but you also need to be able to PWM the coil for hold power otherwise it will burn up (unless you use a double coil, and a separate 12v power supply and an end of stroke switch)
It is this part which is the black box for me Eager to learn, but there are several options out there and dont know where to start. Would be great to find or write a guide when/if I find the easiest solution for getting to flippers flipping.
btw, what do you mean by PWM?
Bought an adhesive spray and got the playfield print attached to my plywood finally.
Will try to get the wooden side rails tomorrow and the foamcore on thrusday/friday I hope, along with some cardboard.
Its not much, but on the other hand it flips just as much as Houdini!
For just hooking up and getting the flippers flipping... is there any specific coil I should or should not choose?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3748
As you see from the dropdown menu, there are different ones with and without diode.
Quoted from desertT1:I would suggest finding a game you like the strength of and check part numbers.
Ah ok, so with or without a diode is not relevant for how you need to program or wire up the coil? ☺ just the strength and feel.
Wow, lots of response here regarding, nice too hear some opinions. Why i was thinking stern flipper assembly was because i like stern machines, and not that fond of b/w. But i guess it is just a matter of taste.
Some more wooden borders hammered on, and also I bought 6 quite large plates of expofoam, and started cutting my first ramp.
But I wonder if some of you have some good tips on working the foamcore? It was much harder than I thought, and as you can see from my first ramp part attempt, I would need to make the left part more upward/straight, but that would just "break" it in two, making it a very unsmooth bulky ramp.
All tips appreciated. Also, what is the best approuch making ball lanes for loops etc, does foamcore work good for that too?
Seems I might encounter the same challenge, which is getting it smooth enough.
first_foamcore_cut (resized).jpg
me_whitewood01 (resized).jpg
Anyone knows what screws and t-nuts is needed for lane guides and slingshots posts? I cant seem to find any illustration and reference in Stern manuals, and difficult to find them on marcos etc..
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