(Topic ID: 112929)

Let's figure out the minimum parts to build a whitewood

By Aurich

9 years ago


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    There are 1,883 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 38.
    #351 9 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    with the shooter lane insert I designed it with random sized countersunk screw holes but if you want the groove to go deeper and longer the middle holes will need to moved so the 2 features do not intersect. I am not ready for any testing so those trying let me know and I will tweak the design.
    Also the hollow / recessed version might suit the lighting feature better, as depending on the percentage of fill you will see the hexagon fill features on a solid version ????

    I'll try with the hollow one as well.

    The one issue I've had so far is that the unit is 152mm long, which is 2mm longer than my printer can handle. I don't care about the curve at the end of the lane, so I chopped off the last 13mm or so of the unit.

    Any particular reason other than aesthetics for the curved "nose" of the piece? If not, it may be easier to just go straight across. It would make cutting the pocket on the playfield easier, at least for me.

    #352 9 years ago

    How would you cut the pocket with a straight end? Curved is way easier. Right width bit in your router and a single pass, boom done. So long as the curve at the matches the bit diameter.

    #353 9 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    How would you cut the pocket with a straight end? Curved is way easier. Right width bit in your router and a single pass, boom done. So long as the curve at the matches the bit diameter.

    That's a very good point. Consider it a case of not seeing the forest for the trees. I was fixated on using a very small bit and a jig, and didn't even think of using a bit the same size as the end curve.

    #354 9 years ago

    Hey Wolfmarsh

    Aurich is correct, hard to route to a point so added a nice flowing curve to suit the width.

    Do you want me to shorten for you. I was just rounding the design to 1inch wide x 6inches long so the Radius is 1/2" on the end curve to suit pinball's imperial design. I prefer mm but I can do a 1'' x 5 7/8" long so 25.4mm x 145.65mm. I can also just have 1/4" corners. You guys tell me and I will modify for you - no problems.

    I am heading out for a surf and when I come back I will tweak what ever you request and post up to thingiverse another option.

    #355 9 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    Do you want me to shorten for you. I was just rounding the design to 1inch wide x 6inches long so the Radius is 1/2" on the end curve to suit pinball's imperial design. I prefer mm but I can do a 1'' x 5 7/8" long so 25.4mm x 145.65mm. I can also just have 1/4" corners. You guys tell me and I will modify for you - no problems.

    No, don't modify the model yet. I swear I had some kind of stroke or something this morning. Having family in town for the holidays turned my brain into mush.

    I'll let you know how these next few prints come out. I'm messing with print orientation and infill to get a few samples of different styles. I'm going to print out a "light box" that I can lay them on to test different lighting effects as well. Now that 75% of the visiting family is out of the house, hopefully my brain goes back to normal.

    #356 9 years ago

    kinda disappointed at the lack of insert availability on marco. cant get lightning bolts anywhere. very very little in the way of triangles or diamonds or much anything. then you see something you need in two colours only to read they are both different sizes lol..

    #357 9 years ago
    Quoted from BloodyCactus:

    kinda disappointed at the lack of insert availability on marco.

    You have to order 10,000 inserts of a single color.

    Anything Marco has is likely leftovers from a Stern, CPR or Mirco run.

    Marco would be lucky to sell 500 inserts in a year let alone, 10,000+ ....

    Quoted from BloodyCactus:

    cant get lightning bolts anywhere. very very little in the way of triangles or diamonds or much anything.

    Some shapes no longer have molds available.

    They have been lost to the ages or damaged.

    It costs $15,000 to make a new mold.

    #358 9 years ago
    Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

    No, don't modify the model yet. I swear I had some kind of stroke or something this morning. Having family in town for the holidays turned my brain into mush.
    I'll let you know how these next few prints come out. I'm messing with print orientation and infill to get a few samples of different styles. I'm going to print out a "light box" that I can lay them on to test different lighting effects as well. Now that 75% of the visiting family is out of the house, hopefully my brain goes back to normal.

    what is your print bed size?

    just let me know and can adjust to suit the masses.

    #359 9 years ago
    Quoted from BloodyCactus:

    kinda disappointed at the lack of insert availability on marco. cant get lightning bolts anywhere. very very little in the way of triangles or diamonds or much anything. then you see something you need in two colours only to read they are both different sizes lol..

    For prototyping you can use laser cut acrylic. A lot cheaper to make than using up inserts in white woods. If you size then right then you can use real inserts later without much alteration to your cut plan.

    Aaron
    FAST Pinball

    #360 9 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    You have to order 10,000 inserts of a single color.
    Anything Marco has is likely leftovers from a Stern, CPR or Mirco run.
    Marco would be lucky to sell 500 inserts in a year let alone, 10,000+ ....

    Some shapes no longer have molds available.
    They have been lost to the ages or damaged.
    It costs $15,000 to make a new mold.

    I know, I'm just moaning about it

    My original thought was to get something like this example from ebay
    ebay.com link: itm

    and just cut my own as needed (nothing like one off DIY stuff eh)

    #361 9 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    what is your print bed size?
    just let me know and can adjust to suit the masses.

    150mm x 150mm x 150mm

    If I print it flat laying down, I can just turn it at a 45 degree angle on the build surface to fit it.

    #362 9 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    It costs $15,000 to make a new mold.

    You could CNC your own in silicone at home. I've seen home CNC machines for under $2K.

    http://lcamtuf.coredump.cx/gcnc/

    #363 9 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    How do you route out a shooter lane? I imagine you'd have to build some kind of ramp for a plunge router to taper it off properly?

    I looked at a couple of options, and decided the low-tech solution would work for my current build - mark out a "V", a couple of passes with a blade to start the grove, and 10 minutes with a piece of dowel and sandpaper from course down to fine.

    20141109_154852.jpg20141109_154852.jpg 20141109_155010.jpg20141109_155010.jpg
    #364 9 years ago

    Most inserts aren't a problem contrary to what is usually said here from Foremost Plastics. I bought a bunch of grab bags from Steve Young also for my playfield production. Marco Specialties is my vendor for Foremost Plastics, & in the past they usually got common round inserts made in 30 - 60 days! I ordered extra's & might be partially responsible for some sizes out of stock.

    There are other vendors available for inserts also around the world. Some people are cutting (cnc) their own ones, & i'm sure 3d printing will open the area further. If I have extra's of what's needed you can ask me also.

    Pictures of the last 4 of 40 Star Gazers with lenses installed. Final epoxy brush to fill in any gaps after they dried for days after inserts installed.

    001.JPG001.JPG 002.JPG002.JPG 003.JPG003.JPG 004.JPG004.JPG
    #365 9 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    You have to order 10,000 inserts of a single color.
    Anything Marco has is likely leftovers from a Stern, CPR or Mirco run.
    Marco would be lucky to sell 500 inserts in a year let alone, 10,000+ ....

    Some shapes no longer have molds available.
    They have been lost to the ages or damaged.
    It costs $15,000 to make a new mold.

    Actually I have bought about 10,000 lenses, various ones from Marco Speciaties. Some of the stock had to be ordered from Foremost Plastics, & got some stock built up. Stern yellow opaque arrow has been a no go. But another source maybe available, & at a sensible cost for a new mold & minimal numbers.

    Classic Playfield Reproductions has numerous vendors. Problem being some times they are shorted. So I doubt there is any excess production of lenses to be had.

    #366 9 years ago
    Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

    Thanks. It's going to be a while (years), but hopefully it will be good.
    Post pic of the prints when you get a chance, I'm curious to see how yours turned out.

    Here are the ones I had printed. Being that they are white it's kind of hard to see the details in the pic, sorry. The two on either side are solid, the one in the middle is the hollow version.shooterlane.jpgshooterlane.jpg

    #367 9 years ago

    I might give one a go tomorrow, I only have neon bright green abs right now. What size are the countersunk screw holes? like machine screw #4?

    #368 9 years ago

    I know this isn't exactly as simple or really and kind of cost savings, but now I want to see one of those shooter lanes CNC'd out of aluminum.

    #369 9 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    I know this isn't exactly as simple or really and kind of cost savings, but now I want to see one of those shooter lanes CNC'd out of aluminum.

    How bout out of granite. Something really upscale. If it must be metal, titanium, or better, so shooter lane pics are always sharp - adamantium.

    #370 9 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    I know this isn't exactly as simple or really and kind of cost savings, but now I want to see one of those shooter lanes CNC'd out of aluminum.

    LEs can become truly handcrafted works of art with high quality inlays and more!

    Aaron
    FAST Pinball

    #371 9 years ago
    Quoted from fastpinball:

    LEs can become truly handcrafted works of art with high quality inlays and more!
    Aaron
    FAST Pinball

    Okay, seriously, who is going to be the first boutique to sell games with options? Forget the LE. Sell people what ever they want, until you "retire" the game from the factory and stop making them.

    This is what a boutique pitch should be:

    ---

    We're making less games than a company like Stern can do. We're a smaller shop. But we build each one for you. We don't do gimmicks like limited editions, we believe every customer who supports us should get the game they want, the way they want it.

    Buy the game, with all the rules and gameplay features, nothing left out. And if you like we can upgrade it for you, straight from the factory. Pick from options like these, and your game will ship with them all installed, play-tested, and ready to use.

    Mirrored backglass instead of a translite, with new art exclusive to the mirrored version? Done, and it's beautiful. Collector quality prints of the translite design are available for framing if you want to have that too.

    Powdercoated armor instead of stainless? We have an arrangement with a powder coating shop. We'll have recommended colors for you, with mockups of how they'll look, but have your armor done in any color you choose, they can do anything. Your game will ship with it installed, ready to go.

    Interactive three dimensional topper? The game is pre-wired for our topper, simply plug it in, and secure two pre-drilled bolts to keep it in place. It reacts to the game code, not just the flashers like most aftermarket ones (or it appears Stern's so far). How about a topper that reacts to your score? Beat the replay score to light a special feature or color on it. Let everyone in the room know you're killing it.

    Anodized and laser etched aluminum shooter lane? Because why the hell not? CNC'd out of aluminum, anodized black, and then laser etched with a custom graphic that matches the game, but is original art available nowhere else.

    We'll price them fair, but we will make a profit from them, that will support making more games. Pick any combination of upgrades you want.

    If you want to pimp out your game and make it look extra bad ass then we hope you'll ask for them all, and support what we're doing. It's not a "limited edition", it's just the most special game we know how to build, and owning it will put you in a very small circle of people who've been our top supporters.

    And yes, the topper and mirrored backglass aren't going to change how the game plays, but when you set the new grand champion score and the topper lightshow goes nuts, lighting up the room and shining on the mirrored glass you'll be glad you sprung for it!

    If you just want to play pinball then you're a player's player, and we've kept all the actual gameplay features for you, at the lowest cost we can make it, by leaving off things that are just more for fun and show. No missing spinners, no missing code or toys. Just the best playing game we know how to build.

    No matter how you choose we put each game together for you personally.

    ---

    Tell me you won't want to see someone say that. Charlie, where you at man? Spooky should steal every one of those ideas.

    #372 9 years ago

    I would be cool with Spooky using the shooter lane inserts

    I thought I added a solid works file the other day to the thingiverse item but just did 2 copies of the solid version stl - so removed one of the STL's and added a solid works version as well as the dimensioning to give people a better idea of the sizing (also attached here).

    Shooter Lane Insert Dimenions.jpgShooter Lane Insert Dimenions.jpg
    #373 9 years ago

    Just added a 5.5inch long version for you Wolfmarsh - reducing the overall length 1/2 inch and moving the 2 holes near the rounded end down by 1/2 inch - hope it helps.

    #374 9 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    Okay, seriously, who is going to be the first boutique to sell games with options? Forget the LE. Sell people what ever they want, until you "retire" the game from the factory and stop making them.
    This is what a boutique pitch should be:
    ---
    We're making less games than a company like Stern can do. We're a smaller shop. But we build each one for you. We don't do gimmicks like limited editions, we believe every customer who supports us should get the game they want, the way they want it.
    Buy the game, with all the rules and gameplay features, nothing left out. And if you like we can upgrade it for you, straight from the factory. Pick from options like these, and your game will ship with them all installed, play-tested, and ready to use.
    Mirrored backglass instead of a translite, with new art exclusive to the mirrored version? Done, and it's beautiful. Collector quality prints of the translite design are available for framing if you want to have that too.
    Powdercoated armor instead of stainless? We have an arrangement with a powder coating shop. We'll have recommended colors for you, with mockups of how they'll look, but have your armor done in any color you choose, they can do anything. Your game will ship with it installed, ready to go.
    Interactive three dimensional topper? The game is pre-wired for our topper, simply plug it in, and secure two pre-drilled bolts to keep it in place. It reacts to the game code, not just the flashers like most aftermarket ones (or it appears Stern's so far). How about a topper that reacts to your score? Beat the replay score to light a special feature or color on it. Let everyone in the room know you're killing it.
    Anodized and laser etched aluminum shooter lane? Because why the hell not? CNC'd out of aluminum, anodized black, and then laser etched with a custom graphic that matches the game, but is original art available nowhere else.
    We'll price them fair, but we will make a profit from them, that will support making more games. Pick any combination of upgrades you want.
    If you want to pimp out your game and make it look extra bad ass then we hope you'll ask for them all, and support what we're doing. It's not a "limited edition", it's just the most special game we know how to build, and owning it will put you in a very small circle of people who've been our top supporters.
    And yes, the topper and mirrored backglass aren't going to change how the game plays, but when you set the new grand champion score and the topper lightshow goes nuts, lighting up the room and shining on the mirrored glass you'll be glad you sprung for it!
    If you just want to play pinball then you're a player's player, and we've kept all the actual gameplay features for you, at the lowest cost we can make it, by leaving off things that are just more for fun and show. No missing spinners, no missing code or toys. Just the best playing game we know how to build.
    No matter how you choose we put each game together for you personally.
    ---
    Tell me you won't want to see someone say that. Charlie, where you at man? Spooky should steal every one of those ideas.

    I think this would be a lot of fun. One of the reasons we created the open source hardware daughter board interface (DBI) to our FAST I/O boards was to make it super easy for third party groups to create toys for FAST games. That way the toy creator doesnt need to know anything about how your game is all wired up, just that it can handle the DBI module. We think there will be a great opportunity for people who, for example, couple 3rd print and design custom animatronic heads (a la Rudy) that can be personalized for your game. It greatly simplifies how the toy designer needs to drive their toy and it makes it very easy for a programmer to control the toy. This is one of the things I am most excited about with our new hardware. Ahhhh can't get here soon enough dammit!

    Aaron
    FAST Pinball

    #375 9 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    Just added a 5.5inch long version for you Wolfmarsh - reducing the overall length 1/2 inch and moving the 2 holes near the rounded end down by 1/2 inch - hope it helps.

    Thanks swinks. I'm gonna give the 5.5" one a few prints as well.

    I uploaded the light box I made to test lighting effects with, for the 6 inch version. I'll do one for the 5.5 inch and upload it as well. I linked it as a remix/inspired by to your shooter lane model.

    I've got a spool of crystal clear filament on the way, as well as some other translucent colors, so I can test lighting with that as well.

    I'm sitting here working on a PCB to send to OSHPark that would slip under the hollow version. I was going to do 9 RGB leds. 1 under the rounded tip, then 4 running down each side. Added a small atmel microcontroller to make it easier to tinker with.

    So far I've got 2 solids and 2 hollows printed, a set of each in white ABS and translucent orange PLA. Also got one of the lightboxes printed.

    #376 9 years ago
    Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

    Thanks swinks. I'm gonna give the 5.5" one a few prints as well.
    I uploaded the light box I made to test lighting effects with, for the 6 inch version. I'll do one for the 5.5 inch and upload it as well. I linked it as a remix/inspired by to your shooter lane model.
    I've got a spool of crystal clear filament on the way, as well as some other translucent colors, so I can test lighting with that as well.
    I'm sitting here working on a PCB to send to OSHPark that would slip under the hollow version. I was going to do 9 RGB leds. 1 under the rounded tip, then 4 running down each side. Added a small atmel microcontroller to make it easier to tinker with.
    So far I've got 2 solids and 2 hollows printed, a set of each in white ABS and translucent orange PLA. Also got one of the lightboxes printed.

    sounds cool, interested in one of those kits when you get it up and running

    #377 9 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    sounds cool, interested in one of those kits when you get it up and running

    The PCB with the lights/atmel on it? I'd be happy to send you a couple!!

    Once I get them back from OSHPark, I'll populate them, do some testing, post some videos, and PM you for your address. Maybe 2-3 weeks, depending on how fast OSHPark is with the holidays. I just had two other things go to fab pretty quickly right before, so hopefully it won't be too long of a wait.

    #378 9 years ago

    What pricing are you getting for OSHPark? How many layers? Silk top bottom?

    #379 9 years ago

    oshpark is great for 2 layer SMALL boards. once you go beyond an inch or two, they price exponentially, your better off with somewhere like seeed and their fusion service.

    #380 9 years ago
    Quoted from GimpMaster:

    What pricing are you getting for OSHPark? How many layers? Silk top bottom?

    $14.70 for 3 boards, so less than $5 a piece.

    2 layers, silk screened.

    #381 9 years ago

    One I've tried out with success is myropcb.com. Same kind of thing small boards 5 for $20 if you follow their stack up.

    18
    #382 9 years ago

    here is a concept for people to consider for proto-typing a playfield or permanently using....

    Here is a concept for locating and fastening the various stainless steel ball guides around a pinball playfield. The concept is that you have your various lengths of stainless steel strips that are 1.2-1.3mm thick cut to 7/8" or 22.225mm high by what ever length so it slides into the gaps of the post and then fasten the post down into location. The post holds the stainless steel guide 1/8 inch up off the playfield allowing for light to pass under. The post is 27.4mm which is equal to a regular playfield post so it will fit under any plastics.

    The post is double sided so you can run 2 stainless steel strips close together with one post if you wish. One side is filleted a fraction more to allow the stainless steel strip to be curved when passing through.

    This post allows anyone to locate the stainless steel strips without needing to perform welding or riveting. Simply screw down from the top side with no need for L brackets etc.

    I designed and uploaded so a few people could progress on their project and currently I am not ready to test so please let me know if you think their should be any changes after test printing (3D Printing).

    here is the link for a free download
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:614197

    I will also upload to shape ways for those without a printer to order for your project.

    Ball Guide Post.jpgBall Guide Post.jpg Ball Guide Post 2.jpgBall Guide Post 2.jpg Ball Guide Post Base.jpgBall Guide Post Base.jpg
    #383 9 years ago

    That is a pretty good idea, I would definitely increase the fill % on your Slicer program to make these strong.

    #384 9 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    here is a concept for people to consider for proto-typing a playfield or permanently using....
    Here is a concept for locating and fastening the various stainless steel ball guides around a pinball playfield. The concept is that you have your various lengths of stainless steel strips that are 1.2-1.3mm thick cut to 7/8" or 22.225mm high by what ever length so it slides into the gaps of the post and then fasten the post down into location. The post holds the stainless steel guide 1/8 inch up off the playfield allowing for light to pass under. The post is 27.4mm which is equal to a regular playfield post so it will fit under any plastics.
    The post is double sided so you can run 2 stainless steel strips close together with one post if you wish. One side is filleted a fraction more to allow the stainless steel strip to be curved when passing through.
    This post allows anyone to locate the stainless steel strips without needing to perform welding or riveting. Simply screw down from the top side with no need for L brackets etc.
    I designed and uploaded so a few people could progress on their project and currently I am not ready to test so please let me know if you think their should be any changes after test printing (3D Printing).
    here is the link for a free download
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:614197
    I will also upload to shape ways for those without a printer to order for your project.

    Ball Guide Post.jpg 33 KB

    Ball Guide Post Base.jpg 39 KB

    Ball Guide Post 2.jpg 37 KB

    Another cool idea man!

    I'm printing some of these out as well. I will actually get around to posting some pics of it all today and some makes on thingiverse.

    #385 9 years ago

    Thats pretty cool

    #386 9 years ago

    I like that post idea a lot

    #387 9 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    Here is a concept for locating and fastening the various stainless steel ball guides around a pinball playfield.

    Very cool! Hadn't thought about holding ball guides, but I've been working on some similar 3D parts this weekend for building wireforms without welding:

    I have to pick up some rod to work out the fit and squeeze to make these work (and they need to look cooler as well ) but I'm hoping to shortcut ramp construction a lot. Will probably make some 45° and 90° pieces too so I don't have to bend so much wire...

    Capture1.JPGCapture1.JPG

    #388 9 years ago

    they definitely look cool and useful!

    #389 9 years ago

    Speaking of metal, I need to get some thin steel (possibly aluminum I guess, steel would be best though) cut. Like 22gauge, hand bendable. Looks like laser isn't the best way to go for that, should probably water jet it.

    Anyone have a recommendation for a place to use? I need to make little thin strips with holes "drilled" in them.

    #390 9 years ago
    Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:

    I have to pick up some rod to work out the fit and squeeze to make these work (and they need to look cooler as well ) but I'm hoping to shortcut ramp construction a lot. Will probably make some 45° and 90° pieces too so I don't have to bend so much wire...

    That is pretty darn cool. If you were to make up appropriate bend joints in varying angles, you'd never have to bend a single piece of wire! That would save some serious time and effort. You could also build in the appropriate mounting for the "ramp made" switch at the same time.

    #391 9 years ago
    Quoted from GLModular:

    That is pretty darn cool. If you were to make up appropriate bend joints in varying angles, you'd never have to bend a single piece of wire! That would save some serious time and effort. You could also build in the appropriate mounting for the "ramp made" switch at the same time.

    Bending the wire and ball guides was actually much easier than we anticipated when we did the first whitewood of Python's Pinball Circus. We had bought all sorts of metal bending equipment, and what ultimately worked the best was getting short 2 foot lengths of every PVC pipe size from Home Depot or Lowes and bending them by hand.

    Of course, what made this easier was that we had full sized, 1 scale drawings of what we were bending that we could:

    1) Bend
    2) Put item on 1 printed drawing
    3) Repeat

    We also toyed with using something like the old Spacewarp roller coaster kits and printing some clips to hold some wire, etc. There are already some marble rollercoaster kits on thingiverse that could probably be modified for this purpose too.

    #392 9 years ago
    Quoted from GLModular:

    That is pretty darn cool. If you were to make up appropriate bend joints in varying angles, you'd never have to bend a single piece of wire! That would save some serious time and effort. You could also build in the appropriate mounting for the "ramp made" switch at the same time.

    Yeah that's exactly where my head started going when I modelled the first U shaped thing - it could easily hold a switch. And the 'ball drop' part can have mounting features, or a flasher/led feature built right in to it. There's some great potential for multipurpose implementation.

    I'm hoping to have a 'build your own wireform' set of components for people to print and/or buy in the end.

    #393 9 years ago
    Quoted from pkiefert:

    Bending the wire and ball guides was actually much easier than we anticipated when we did the first whitewood of Python's Pinball Circus. We had bought all sorts of metal bending equipment, and what ultimately worked the best was getting short 2 foot lengths of every PVC pipe size from Home Depot or Lowes and bending them by hand.

    Yeah so far I'm not anticipating the actual bending will be hard, moreso the proper alignment of the 2 (or 4) different curvatures of wire. With access to any CAD, it's less of an issue, but some 3D printed curves could be used in lieu of random bending (and actually forming parts could be printed to fit to the 'proper' curve to QA a 3D bend... just thinking out loud)

    #394 9 years ago
    Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:

    Very cool! Hadn't thought about holding ball guides, but I've been working on some similar 3D parts this weekend for building wireforms without welding:
    I have to pick up some rod to work out the fit and squeeze to make these work (and they need to look cooler as well ) but I'm hoping to shortcut ramp construction a lot. Will probably make some 45° and 90° pieces too so I don't have to bend so much wire...

    great idea, been a great thread for developing ideas.

    #395 9 years ago

    Edit 30-12-14 - I added a part A & B STL files so if you don't want to deal with supports and cleanup you can use the assembled version.

    Part A&B Asm.jpgPart A&B Asm.jpg

    #396 9 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    here is a concept for people to consider for proto-typing a playfield or permanently using....
    Here is a concept for locating and fastening the various stainless steel ball guides around a pinball playfield. The concept is that you have your various lengths of stainless steel strips that are 1.2-1.3mm thick cut to 7/8" or 22.225mm high by what ever length so it slides into the gaps of the post and then fasten the post down into location. The post holds the stainless steel guide 1/8 inch up off the playfield allowing for light to pass under. The post is 27.4mm which is equal to a regular playfield post so it will fit under any plastics.
    The post is double sided so you can run 2 stainless steel strips close together with one post if you wish. One side is filleted a fraction more to allow the stainless steel strip to be curved when passing through.
    This post allows anyone to locate the stainless steel strips without needing to perform welding or riveting. Simply screw down from the top side with no need for L brackets etc.
    I designed and uploaded so a few people could progress on their project and currently I am not ready to test so please let me know if you think their should be any changes after test printing (3D Printing).
    here is the link for a free download
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:614197
    I will also upload to shape ways for those without a printer to order for your project.

    Ball Guide Post.jpg 33 KB

    Ball Guide Post Base.jpg 39 KB

    Ball Guide Post 2.jpg 37 KB

    I LOVE THIS THREAD!

    These ball guide posts are pretty cool man! I could see a modification to hold an opto lined up with a hole cut in the guide. I think it is an interesting design idea to have the guides up off the playfield slightly where you could run lighting along the bottom. A couple sensors could determine ball speed and have a "swoosh" of light run along the guide.

    I created some ball guides that I could print for prototyping. They arent meant to long term use, but cheap way to tinker until you like what you have. Printed in ABS they were easy to cut to shape and bendable. I also used acetone to "glue" some of the edges together. I didnt want to wreck my metal guides while guessing and checking.

    Screen Shot 2014-12-29 at 12.38.07 PM.pngScreen Shot 2014-12-29 at 12.38.07 PM.png

    They were sized to print in a standard Makerbot print bed. I whipped it up in Autodesk 123D Design (free app). I have shared it with some friends locally. If anyone would like the file PM me where to email it.

    Actually, didn't someone setup a Pinball Dev Dropbox? I could throw it in there also.

    Aaron
    FAST Pinball

    #397 9 years ago
    Quoted from fastpinball:

    Actually, didn't someone setup a Pinball Dev Dropbox? I could throw it in there also.

    One good place might be up on thingiverse, that way we can link right to the model and other people not on pinside can access them.

    Quoted from swinks:

    Edit 30-12-14 - I added a part A & B STL files so if you don't want to deal with supports and cleanup you can use the assembled version.

    Printing these now.

    #398 9 years ago
    Quoted from fastpinball:

    I whipped it up in Autodesk 123D Design (free app).

    I found trying to use this app frustrating. Couldn't figure out how to get things positioned how I wanted to. Maybe it's just a learning curve and there are tools that I didn't know how to access/use.

    I switched to TinkerCAD, the online version, and found it much easier. Was able to mock up a semi-complicated design without much fuss. Has really nice alignment tools, and clear ways to measure where you're placing things and their size.

    Just ordered a 3D print of my attempt, we'll see if it comes out anything like I think it's supposed to.

    #399 9 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    I found trying to use this app frustrating. Couldn't figure out how to get things positioned how I wanted to. Maybe it's just a learning curve and there are tools that I didn't know how to access/use.
    I switched to TinkerCAD, the online version, and found it much easier. Was able to mock up a semi-complicated design without much fuss. Has really nice alignment tools, and clear ways to measure where you're placing things and their size.
    Just ordered a 3D print of my attempt, we'll see if it comes out anything like I think it's supposed to.

    Yeah, it used to be better. Then it was like it got too good and they dumbed it down. But I hear you.

    I'll check out TinkerCAD too.

    Aaron
    FAST Pinball

    #400 9 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    Speaking of metal, I need to get some thin steel (possibly aluminum I guess, steel would be best though) cut. Like 22gauge, hand bendable. Looks like laser isn't the best way to go for that, should probably water jet it.

    Anyone have a recommendation for a place to use? I need to make little thin strips with holes "drilled" in them.

    Grainger and Mcmaster both have 1" SS strip stock in stock.

    http://www.grainger.com/category/stainless-steel-blanks-flats-bars-plates-and-sheet-stock/stainless-steel/raw-materials/ecatalog/N-c22?bc=y#nav=%2Fcategory%2Fstainless-steel-blanks-flats-bars-plates-and-sheet-stock%2Fstainless-steel%2Fraw-materials%2Fecatalog%2FN-c22Z1z0o8uzZ1z0nmq0

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-stainless-steel-sheets/=v8mcqy

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