Let's figure out the minimum parts to build a whitewood

(Topic ID: 112929)

Let's figure out the minimum parts to build a whitewood


By Aurich

4 years ago



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  • 1,870 posts
  • 114 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by orangegsx
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    There are 1870 posts in this topic. You are on page 38 of 38.
    #1851 11 months ago
    Quoted from Zitt:

    FSL rubs me the wrong way - they tried to copy Glowforge with the Muse line and failed. Last I heard the Muse line was less than stable.

    Huh? Copied because they tried to bring a consumer-friendly laser to market? That's smart, I hope more people do that, exactly the competition we need. Why would you object to that?

    I'm a little wary of the Muse and the extra stuff it has to break (camera) but I'd buy a Muse over a Glowforge any day of the week. Cloud only software for my personal hardware? They must be out of their minds, hard pass. My friend's wife was an early backer, she eventually did get her Glowforge, but it's still not doing everything they promised, like the pass through, and the filter module is MIA.

    #1852 11 months ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    Cloud only software for my personal hardware? They must be out of their minds, hard pass. My friend's wife was an early backer, she eventually did get her Glowforge, but it's still not doing everything they promised, like the pass through, and the filter module is MIA.

    Which is exactly why I bailed as well after their last delay.
    The Muse - if it actually works; maybe a good Glowforge alternative.
    Having said that; neither of those platforms have a big enough table to do most useful work.

    ALWAYS order the largest table you can afford... because you will always have a project that exceeds your max cut size.

    #1853 11 months ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    If he'd chosen some 80s movie instead chances are it would never have gone into production.

    //devils advocate - well archer was made into iron maiden

    "now back to your regular scheduled laser conversation"

    #1854 11 months ago
    Quoted from Zitt:

    ALWAYS order the largest table you can afford... because you will always have a project that exceeds your max cut size.

    I just don't see much in the way of options there. Short of spending a lot of money you're looking at 20x12 from almost everyone. I'd love to go even a little larger, wide enough to cut a speaker panel would be really handy, but it doesn't seem feasible without way more cash than it makes sense to spend.

    Quoted from InfiniteLives:

    //devils advocate - well archer was made into iron maiden

    True, but that meant ditching everything they had envisioned for it and starting over. I'm glad the layout lives, but it's not exactly a great model to follow. Keith said he's looking forward to his next game, where he can design the layout for the theme, instead of bolting a theme on to of what he already did.

    #1855 11 months ago

    Just ran some numbers at Ponoko for laser cutting. Leaving out material costs I'm looking at around $80 just to cut what I need for this mod idea I've been kicking around for years now. Say you sell 100 of them, even for an expensive custom mod that's not an unreasonable number. Looking at $8,000 in cutting costs.

    My time is worth something, I don't always want to babysit tools and do it all myself, but damn, that's a hell of an argument for buying a cutter and doing just that. Not like you gotta 'work' while it's cutting, just stay near it to make sure shit doesn't catch on fire while you do other things.

    #1856 11 months ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    Just ran some numbers at Ponoko for laser cutting. Leaving out material costs I'm looking at around $80 just to cut what I need for this mod idea I've been kicking around for years now. Say you sell 100 of them, even for an expensive custom mod that's not an unreasonable number. Looking at $8,000 in cutting costs.

    My time is worth something, I don't always want to babysit tools and do it all myself, but damn, that's a hell of an argument for buying a cutter and doing just that. Not like you gotta 'work' while it's cutting, just stay near it to make sure shit doesn't catch on fire while you do other things.

    I think you have your answer.
    If you manage to sell 100, you have paid for the upfront capital investment (well plus the materials), then it's high profit after that.

    Let's say you only end up selling 50. Well you could either sell the laser cutter for a little over half, and cut your losses. Or, you come up with another mod, and another mod until you finally get it paid off.

    #1857 11 months ago

    I’ll take coming up with another mod for 800 Alex.

    2 weeks later
    #1858 11 months ago

    Went from minimum parts to 3d printers and laser cutters. Lol. I have both in my shop but rarely use the 3d printer in my builds just really enjoy making the parts by hand. Been really liking my laser cutter though

    #1859 11 months ago
    Quoted from Bonnevil69:

    Went from minimum parts to 3d printers and laser cutters. Lol. I have both in my shop but rarely use the 3d printer in my builds just really enjoy making the parts by hand. Been really liking my laser cutter though

    Heh, yeah, but I love how the scope increased.

    What model of laser cutter do you have? Still feels a bit like the wild west in that market, hasn't entered the phase 3D printers have for consumer friendliness, though that does seem to be the trend.

    1 month later
    #1860 10 months ago

    If you are coming to SFGE in Atlanta and want to find out more about custom games, check out this post:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2018-southern-fried-gaming-expo-june-8-10-atlanta-ga#post-4408794

    #1861 10 months ago

    Following.

    Robert

    2 months later
    4 months later
    #1863 3 months ago

    I have an opertunity to buy a junk cab that is missing all the boards and has a shot playfield. I want to cut a playfield myself and tinker around making my own game. Basically I just want flippers, bumpers, and slings that work while designing it. Will that be pretty simple to do without an mpu? I would rather just get a solenoid driver board for now while messing with it and figure out the lights and mpu later. Thanks for any tips

    #1864 3 months ago
    Quoted from orangegsx:

    Basically I just want flippers, bumpers, and slings that work while designing it. Will that be pretty simple to do without an mpu? I would rather just get a solenoid driver board for now while messing with it and figure out the lights and mpu later. Thanks for any tips

    Either buy an existing used/new mpu/driverboard (knowing you'll also have to make a wire harness to tap to all the coils)
    OR

    The most basic way to flip a game without any CPU control is buy flipper mechs with end of stroke switches and 3 lug coils. That way you can run a 12v and 48v power supply to them, and the EOS switch will mechanically switch from 48v to 12v for flipper hold. The slings and pop bumpers should only activate temporarily on their own (but just be aware that if either of those should get stuck on, there's no safety logic to tell it to cut power so it will slowly start to smoke). But you're developing a layout so it's a non-issue. It's only a safety issue when it's being played unattended.

    https://www.pinballlife.com/full-flipper-assembly-for-williamsbally-machines-from-021984-to-011987.html

    #1865 3 months ago
    Quoted from orangegsx:

    I have an opertunity to buy a junk cab that is missing all the boards and has a shot playfield. I want to cut a playfield myself and tinker around making my own game.

    I friend of mine has built 3 or 4 games from scratch...built everything on the game from the cabinet to the playfield, artwork, plastics and ramps.

    I believe he uses Fast Controller for the MPU. He started with Rasberry Pi, but went to Fast for some reason that escapes me at the moment.

    If you go that route you have a lot of work to do to get a machine up and running. I suggest getting a worn out early SS game and using it as a test bed to get your feet wet.

    Robert

    #1866 3 months ago
    Quoted from MrSanRamon:

    If you go that route you have a lot of work to do to get a machine up and running. I suggest getting a worn out early SS game and using it as a test bed to get your feet wet.

    Pat Lawlor used a road kings for his core guts to build wreck n' ball, which of course became banazi run
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wrecking-ball-pin-proto-banzai-run

    Problem is finding a wrecked early solid state machine that isn't more than a few hundred bucks. Soon as you start encroaching $500-$600 you might as well buy a PROC and run skeleton game or mission pinball framework which will get you a flipping game with basic scoring.

    #1867 3 months ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    Problem is finding a wrecked early solid state machine that isn't more than a few hundred bucks. Soon as you start encroaching $500-$600 you might as well buy a PROC and run skeleton game or mission pinball framework which will get you a flipping game with basic scoring.

    Yes, it's difficult but not impossible. He's in ND, so he's a lot closer to the east coast where all of the games seem to reside.

    Even at $600, you get a cab, backbox, probably legs, and a lot of parts to get you started on this endeavor. Even if you have to buy an Alltek of Rottendog board, you are in pretty good shape.

    I've been working on a re-theme of a Bally Night Rider for about a year now and I can say from experience that starting from a semi-working game is a big step up from zero. Especially if you haven't done something like this before.

    Robert

    #1868 3 months ago
    Quoted from MrSanRamon:

    Even at $600, you get a cab, backbox, probably legs, and a lot of parts to get you started on this endeavor. Even if you have to buy an Alltek of Rottendog board, you are in pretty good shape.

    Guess it depends on what you have.
    My project started by buying a non-working Stern memory lane for $150. Stripped the cabinet, painted it, then made the realization I wanted more than a single layer so I gave the cabinet away. My intention was to re-use the playfield parts, but the pop bumpers and flippers were in terrible shape, the sling mechs suck (it's like 5 pieces and I could never cut the hole right where it wasn't interfering). Only thing I really salvaged from the entire playfield was the ball trough (sold the empty playfield for $20).

    I ended up finding a friend that was giving away an F14 cabinet so that's what I'm using now.

    I also have 4 sets of semi-rusty legs I can use for whatever (bought them from a friend that swapped out legs for new ones).

    For certain, don't bother buying used mechs. You don't save much, and the reason why the person is selling them is either they bought used ones from an op, or they replaced entire mech assemblies from a project pinball and usually need everything replaced (so you aren't really saving money).

    #1869 3 months ago
    Quoted from MrSanRamon:

    Yes, it's difficult but not impossible. He's in ND, so he's a lot closer to the east coast where all of the games seem to reside.
    Even at $600, you get a cab, backbox, probably legs, and a lot of parts to get you started on this endeavor. Even if you have to buy an Alltek of Rottendog board, you are in pretty good shape.
    I've been working on a re-theme of a Bally Night Rider for about a year now and I can say from experience that starting from a semi-working game is a big step up from zero. Especially if you haven't done something like this before.
    Robert

    I have about 15 non working early solid states to pick from in various states of completeness for very cheap. Might pick up a stellar wars

    #1870 3 months ago

    Well this will be my donor.. the bar it was in had a fire, it was taken back to the operator and stripped of all boards. Now to read some more and scale the layout I have drawn up. Going to need to find a cheap way to get flipper power. In a while! Going to be fun!

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