Quoted from agodfrey:It seems to me like it shouldn't curve like this if you just put a rubber on
Even when I don't put a rubber on, it still curves to the right a bit.
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Quoted from agodfrey:It seems to me like it shouldn't curve like this if you just put a rubber on
Even when I don't put a rubber on, it still curves to the right a bit.
Quoted from agodfrey:See.....how do you work that magic......glue?
2015-03-07 10.52.42.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Ok, I did not actually see the question in your first post, sorry about that.
Contact Cement is what you use when you want the flipper rubber to stay put.
Clean both surfaces, brush on the Cement, allow to fully dry (20 mins?), carefully apply the rubber.
When rubber wears out, heat with hair dryer and remove.
Don't use water based fake Contact Cement - you must use the deadly DAP stuff.
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ALSO: It looks like your flipper is dragging on the playfield - if you haven't already, replace your flipper bushing before going further!
Quoted from agodfrey:How many of you have the one way gate on your bonus shot?
It should be there on every game.
That is the usual way to load the saucer.
Quoted from DorothyMacaw:I started the machine and did a solenoid check. The 3 bank did not have enough power to pop them back up. One of the solenoids on the 5 bank had enough power to pop up one set, but not the other solenoid. I checked that everything was smooth and not binding and it seemed to be. I removed the springs from thie posts and the targets wouldn't drop just from gravity, then reinstalled them. Checked all the connections and solders they looked good. Watched each target contacts slide down the the PC board and they all seemed to be making good contact.
Check for voltage at coil.
Replace the coil sleeve.
Check if you put it back together correctly.
Quoted from DorothyMacaw:Now the machine boots up but not in the GAME OVER mode.
What would cause the game not to start in the GAME OVER mode, I suppose is me first question.
What do the displays say when you turn it on?
Can you take the ball out and go into switch test?
Quoted from dendoc:Been playing perfectly, turned it on and all boots well but when I press start, ball doesn’t kick out and background sound stops. If I kick the ball out manually all plays well.
1. Check if the coil has voltage.
2. Check if the coil diode is good.
Quoted from WhiskeyPinball:That chip is in a dip socket though.
That chip is from 1983, so I'd say it's been replaced.
Quoted from jibmums:I've never seen or played a Time Warp or Disco Fever in the wild, how did they get the rubber to stick to the inner concavity of the flipper? Some sort of glue?
Originally, Williams sold a **boot** that was Gold or Light Blue that fit exactly over the bat.
They became harder and harder to find, so ops started using Contact Cement to adhere a normal flipper rubber to the bat. When the rubber wore out, you removed it with paint thinner.
I see the yellow boots sometimes for sale, but I have not seen a blue one in a decade.
dddd (resized).jpg
Here, I'm testing the GI before installing the playfield in Absolute Ali's Time Warp
Much easier to trouble shoot that stuff when it's still on the rotisserie!
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The game has the translucent blue pop bumper bodies from Zit
Sunlight GI from Comet
Clear rubber from Titan
Aluminum reflector over all the wood behind the GI
2PAC clearcoat
Modern Williams flipper mechs
I 've have done a few TWs with the blue arrows.
There were 5 cracked ones on this one, and I only had 3 in my junkbox.
But Ali totally was down with the blue.
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