Burlington, VT
All I have at home are tip122's can I use that? It's 100V 5A
(Topic ID: 120493)
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Disco Fever
Williams, 1978-
Time Warp
Williams, 1979
Topic Gallery
Considering picking up a Time Warp project. I've sized my collection down a huge amount over the years, from 20+ spanning early SS to mid 90's DMD games, now I've got just 3 early/early-ish SS - Firepower, Solar Fire, and Pinbot. I wonder if Time Warp would hold up in a small collection against those?
I owned one nearly 20 years ago but it was a heavy project and right at the infancy of my pin collection, when I hadn't learned much yet about repairing them. I sold it to a friend back in Atlanta who fixed it and flipped it at an auction (Carl, are you here?) - it was non-working when he got it from me, so I never had a chance to play a working example.
Also, I wonder if anybody here ended up with my old TW? You'd know it; someone in its past managed to remove the backglass and modify the "highest score" artwork to say...roughly...tightest whore, which seems a contradiction in terms but hey what do kids know? 
Thoughts? Thanks!
Richard
someotherguy I'm a big fan of it. It was one of my first games. I think I got it a week after my actual first. Only pin from the original 3 from my collection I still have. I love it, wife loves it, kids love it. I like the rules and I feel the banana flippers make it a little harder for me so it stays interesting and makes it fun for novice players.
But all in the eye of the beholder. If you like games where you build a bonus and collect I think you'll like this
Sana'a
1 week later
1 week later
I brought home a Time Warp a couple weeks ago and made this points guide to help build my score. Maximizing the multiplier is key. I'm sooo close to 10x and a new PR.
Time Warp - Points (resized).jpg
Added over 6 years ago: Updated image: https://images.pinside.com/b/86/40/b86409a603b80bf0ee7609c8bd2ac304afe4006d.jpg
Sydney
1 week later
2 months later
Time warp tech issue - appreciate any help.
Been playing perfectly, turned it on and all boots well but when I press start, ball doesn’t kick out and background sound stops. If I kick the ball out manually all plays well.
In test mode, coil 1 doesn’t fire. Wires look fine, continuity to connector fine.
Any ideas? Thanks
Quoted from dendoc:Been playing perfectly, turned it on and all boots well but when I press start, ball doesn’t kick out and background sound stops. If I kick the ball out manually all plays well.
1. Check if the coil has voltage.
2. Check if the coil diode is good.
Quoted from vid1900:1. Check if the coil has voltage.
2. Check if the coil diode is good.
Thanks for that. 33v to both sides of the coil, and no diode on that one, so I assume its the drive transistor. Ive replaced ones on B/W before but they are well labeled. Might see what I can do tracing to find the culprit - thanks.
Quoted from dendoc:Time warp tech issue - appreciate any help.
Been playing perfectly, turned it on and all boots well but when I press start, ball doesn’t kick out and background sound stops. If I kick the ball out manually all plays well.
In test mode, coil 1 doesn’t fire. Wires look fine, continuity to connector fine.
Any ideas? Thanks
Has the 40-pin interconnect been replaced?
I worked on one with the same sound problem. I separated and reseated the boards and the sound came back, so I knew it was the 40-pin.
2 weeks later
Hi Gents.
Recently picked up a non-working project Time Warp and plan to get it back into good working order.
1) Backglass is OK,
2) Cabinet in good condition,
3) 'Wizard / druid guy' and a couple other areas on the playfield need touch up
So far I have replaced several blown fuses and am waiting on my order from GPE to bulletproof the boards ( The capacitors seem to be original and the some of the end caps seem bloated).
The game boots up into Test mode 4 (shows #of machine top left, and 4 00 on the credit display).
I can cycle through all tests (1-4), all coils fire, lamps work, flippers, etc - I change max credit to 00 (on test 4 18) to set for free play, new batteries installed on mpu.
Turn the machine off then on again and get nowhere (machine boots to test mode 4), when I check test mode 4 18 (credits show 20 again as if memory is not retained).
All the dip switches are moved over to the right (is this correct?)
Thanks,
WP
Quoted from dothedoo:Has the 40-pin interconnect been replaced?
I worked on one with the same sound problem. I separated and reseated the boards and the sound came back, so I knew it was the 40-pin.
Quoted from WhiskeyPinball:So I was looking at the MPU more closely to see the 5101 Chip. Prior owner must have installed a new chip (per photo). Could this chip be the cause or is it comparable to a 5101?
[quoted image]
That looks factory to me. Some boards had a 2101 instead of a 5101.
Quoted from dothedoo:That looks factory to me. Some boards had a 2101 instead of a 5101.
That chip is in a dip socket though. Thought the majority of chips on the boards were float soldered from the factory per Vid's Guide:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6
In any case, my order from Pinitech arrives on 9/10 so I will go NVRAM. My order from GPE just arrived so now I can update all the capacitors, resistors, etc.
Will report back afterwards.
Thanks @dothedoo for chiming in.
Quoted from vid1900:The curved flippers are way more fun.
I've never seen or played a Time Warp or Disco Fever in the wild, how did they get the rubber to stick to the inner concavity of the flipper? Some sort of glue?
Quoted from jibmums:I've never seen or played a Time Warp or Disco Fever in the wild, how did they get the rubber to stick to the inner concavity of the flipper? Some sort of glue?
The rubber is molded Into the same curved shape as the bat.
Quoted from Timerider:The rubber is molded Into the same curved shape as the bat.
Adding to that, examples I've seen have double sided adhesive tape on the working side of the flipper bat.
Quoted from jibmums:I've never seen or played a Time Warp or Disco Fever in the wild, how did they get the rubber to stick to the inner concavity of the flipper? Some sort of glue?
Here is a pic of the original blue molded flipper covers. You can see it's a one piece mold that goes over the flipper entirely.
-Mike
DSC02760 (resized).jpgQuoted from WhiskeyPinball:That chip is in a dip socket though
Oh gotcha. I didn't notice it was in a socket.
Quoted from jibmums:I've never seen or played a Time Warp or Disco Fever in the wild, how did they get the rubber to stick to the inner concavity of the flipper? Some sort of glue?
Originally, Williams sold a **boot** that was Gold or Light Blue that fit exactly over the bat.
They became harder and harder to find, so ops started using Contact Cement to adhere a normal flipper rubber to the bat. When the rubber wore out, you removed it with paint thinner.
I see the yellow boots sometimes for sale, but I have not seen a blue one in a decade.
dddd (resized).jpg
Quoted from vid1900:I see the yellow boots sometimes for sale, but I have not seen a blue one in a decade.
I fell on a nos set of blue on Ebay that was dumb cheap(shipping was more expensive)and just waiting for the right moment to use them.
-Mike
Here, I'm testing the GI before installing the playfield in Absolute Ali's Time Warp
Much easier to trouble shoot that stuff when it's still on the rotisserie!
-
The game has the translucent blue pop bumper bodies from Zit
Sunlight GI from Comet
Clear rubber from Titan
Aluminum reflector over all the wood behind the GI
2PAC clearcoat
Modern Williams flipper mechs
Playfield looks outstanding. Also, like how you incorporated the blue arrows and translucent blue pop bumper bodies.
On a separate note, do you have any playfield scans of the double snake and/or space wizard / druid? I have some areas where the paint is gone in that section and want to make some waterslides.
Well Gents,
Happy to report that my Time Warp is working almost 100% (need to adjust my left target bank - targets drop and reset when new game starts but does not reset during game).
I did the following:
Bulletproof power supply, cut battery holder off MPU and installed Pinitech NVRAM (I really like how these have a small footprint and almost look OEM)
Replaced resistors on driver board and fixed cracked solder joints on all boards (didn’t find many), 40 pin looks relatively new so I didn’t touch it.
3A9FDC77-AAE2-4750-A18F-32D177811ADB (resized).jpeg8D53C6D1-FA55-46DF-B3B7-76D9D8CDDC4D (resized).jpeg90F0B91B-9B70-402B-A92E-6C3A17E5644C (resized).jpegAs a follow up, I will be making labels for the MPU and power supply, replace the capacitors on the sound board, and do the bridge rectifier safety modification (just waiting on an order from Jameco.
2 weeks later
Schematic calls for 10% so looks like 5% would work/ is working as well. Just checking using a 5% would be fine.
Oddly I found another schematic that calls for them (R4 and R5) to be 100k ohm which doesnt match up to what's in there and seems to be working. Any thoughts?
Screenshot_20180928-204953 (resized).pngScreenshot_20180928-210141 (resized).png 7 months later
I'd like to have a supply of fuses for my TW just in case I ever need them. I have the original boards. Can anyone give me a list all the fuses? I think these are all 1 1/4". So far I know:
Sound board (2): ?, ?
Power board (5): 10A, 8A, 4A, 2.5ASB, 1/4ASB
Fuse card below power board (3): ?, ?, ?
9 months later
Just picked up a Time Warp and a number of clustered lights are out (See yellow section in photo). I have tried switching the bulbs in all of them no no avail, does anyone know which fuses are on the Bridge Rectifier Fuse Card in the backbox? Looks like the far left one may be gone but I wanted to check all the fuses anyway, I checked the manual and schematic but do not see them.
TimeWarp_LI (resized).jpgCould be the sockets are bad. Have you checked the wires to them? Those are controlled lights that go off when you hit one of the 5 right drops. I would check the matrix is in tact.
I will say overall those sockets go bad on me all the time. Especially in this game. Make sure the bulbs are making contact.
The drop targets do score, the problem sounds like the horseshoe wipes on the back of the target, they are noted for being a problem. They sit on a small circuit board which can also be a problem, cleaning the boards with some isopropyl alcohol usually gets them going but replace the wipes. Be aware that there are left and right wipes
http://siegecraft.globat.com/pinball/sliders.html
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1B-2001-AK02
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7615
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7614
You can buy the boars in several amounts.
Hope this helps.
59c3ad4207d517337f1b4da5149c792c804c4752 (resized).jpgAK-07-010 (resized).jpgimages (resized).jpgPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
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