(Topic ID: 120493)

Let's Do the Time Warp CLUB....Again


By agodfrey

4 years ago



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  • 145 posts
  • 42 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by Moonwalker
  • Topic is favorited by 24 Pinsiders

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There are 145 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
#101 1 year ago

All I have at home are tip122's can I use that? It's 100V 5A

#102 1 year ago

Used the 122. Same symptoms. Did not have a pre trans on hand but seeing the problem remains with same symptoms bummed me out.

#103 1 year ago

Maybe this pic helps in theory. Sent you a PM.
-Mike

Screenshot_2018-05-06-07-04-06 (resized).png

#104 1 year ago

Considering picking up a Time Warp project. I've sized my collection down a huge amount over the years, from 20+ spanning early SS to mid 90's DMD games, now I've got just 3 early/early-ish SS - Firepower, Solar Fire, and Pinbot. I wonder if Time Warp would hold up in a small collection against those?

I owned one nearly 20 years ago but it was a heavy project and right at the infancy of my pin collection, when I hadn't learned much yet about repairing them. I sold it to a friend back in Atlanta who fixed it and flipped it at an auction (Carl, are you here?) - it was non-working when he got it from me, so I never had a chance to play a working example.

Also, I wonder if anybody here ended up with my old TW? You'd know it; someone in its past managed to remove the backglass and modify the "highest score" artwork to say...roughly...tightest whore, which seems a contradiction in terms but hey what do kids know?

Thoughts? Thanks!

Richard

#105 1 year ago

someotherguy I'm a big fan of it. It was one of my first games. I think I got it a week after my actual first. Only pin from the original 3 from my collection I still have. I love it, wife loves it, kids love it. I like the rules and I feel the banana flippers make it a little harder for me so it stays interesting and makes it fun for novice players.

But all in the eye of the beholder. If you like games where you build a bonus and collect I think you'll like this

#106 1 year ago

I used to have a bunch of those.

The distributors cleared them out at the end of their production run for $750, but when you opened them they were all straight flippered.

The curved flippers are way more fun

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#107 1 year ago

My time warp does not have sound. What do you guys have yours set to in the options menu? I think it is setting #35. 0-99?

1 week later
#108 1 year ago

#35 should be 18 for factory sound, if set to 00 it will be off.
-Mike

1 week later
#109 1 year ago

I brought home a Time Warp a couple weeks ago and made this points guide to help build my score. Maximizing the multiplier is key. I'm sooo close to 10x and a new PR.

Time Warp - Points (resized).jpg

Added 16 months ago: Updated image: https://images.pinside.com/b/86/40/b86409a603b80bf0ee7609c8bd2ac304afe4006d.jpg

#110 1 year ago

When you drop a five bank drop target a corresponding bumper increases from 100 to 1000 until the whole five bank resets.

1 week later
#111 1 year ago

Updated value of the pops.
Also, got a new high score but was concentrating so hard I didn't notice if 10x was lit.

Time Warp - Points2 (resized).jpg

2 months later
#112 1 year ago

Time warp tech issue - appreciate any help.

Been playing perfectly, turned it on and all boots well but when I press start, ball doesn’t kick out and background sound stops. If I kick the ball out manually all plays well.

In test mode, coil 1 doesn’t fire. Wires look fine, continuity to connector fine.

Any ideas? Thanks

#113 1 year ago

Sounds like an issue, MAYBE, with the coil firing. If the wires are fine you might have an issue with the transistor that fires that coil. I'm not a good person to tell you how to fix other than that.

#114 1 year ago
Quoted from dendoc:

Been playing perfectly, turned it on and all boots well but when I press start, ball doesn’t kick out and background sound stops. If I kick the ball out manually all plays well.

1. Check if the coil has voltage.

2. Check if the coil diode is good.

#115 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

1. Check if the coil has voltage.
2. Check if the coil diode is good.

Thanks for that. 33v to both sides of the coil, and no diode on that one, so I assume its the drive transistor. Ive replaced ones on B/W before but they are well labeled. Might see what I can do tracing to find the culprit - thanks.

#116 1 year ago
Quoted from dendoc:

Time warp tech issue - appreciate any help.
Been playing perfectly, turned it on and all boots well but when I press start, ball doesn’t kick out and background sound stops. If I kick the ball out manually all plays well.
In test mode, coil 1 doesn’t fire. Wires look fine, continuity to connector fine.
Any ideas? Thanks

Has the 40-pin interconnect been replaced?

I worked on one with the same sound problem. I separated and reseated the boards and the sound came back, so I knew it was the 40-pin.

2 weeks later
#117 1 year ago

Hi Gents.

Recently picked up a non-working project Time Warp and plan to get it back into good working order.

1) Backglass is OK,
2) Cabinet in good condition,
3) 'Wizard / druid guy' and a couple other areas on the playfield need touch up

So far I have replaced several blown fuses and am waiting on my order from GPE to bulletproof the boards ( The capacitors seem to be original and the some of the end caps seem bloated).

The game boots up into Test mode 4 (shows #of machine top left, and 4 00 on the credit display).

I can cycle through all tests (1-4), all coils fire, lamps work, flippers, etc - I change max credit to 00 (on test 4 18) to set for free play, new batteries installed on mpu.

Turn the machine off then on again and get nowhere (machine boots to test mode 4), when I check test mode 4 18 (credits show 20 again as if memory is not retained).

All the dip switches are moved over to the right (is this correct?)

Thanks,

WP

#118 1 year ago

Your memory is retaining. Check batteries, check battery holder. See how much voltage is coming of it to the ram.

#119 1 year ago

Gnatty will do. Thanks.

On a related note, I also put in an order for a couple of NVRAMs from Pinitech - am most likely picking up a Williams Phoenix tonight for cheap.

#120 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Has the 40-pin interconnect been replaced?
I worked on one with the same sound problem. I separated and reseated the boards and the sound came back, so I knew it was the 40-pin.

Turned out to be the pre-drive transistor for coil 1. No idea whey they go suddenly. All good now that it's been replaced. Back to the bananas!

#121 1 year ago

So I was looking at the MPU more closely to see the 5101 Chip. Prior owner must have installed a new chip (per photo). Could this chip be the cause or is it comparable to a 5101?

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#122 1 year ago
Quoted from WhiskeyPinball:

So I was looking at the MPU more closely to see the 5101 Chip. Prior owner must have installed a new chip (per photo). Could this chip be the cause or is it comparable to a 5101?
[quoted image]

That looks factory to me. Some boards had a 2101 instead of a 5101.

#123 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

That looks factory to me. Some boards had a 2101 instead of a 5101.

That chip is in a dip socket though. Thought the majority of chips on the boards were float soldered from the factory per Vid's Guide:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

In any case, my order from Pinitech arrives on 9/10 so I will go NVRAM. My order from GPE just arrived so now I can update all the capacitors, resistors, etc.

Will report back afterwards.

Thanks @dothedoo for chiming in.

#124 1 year ago
Quoted from WhiskeyPinball:

That chip is in a dip socket though.

That chip is from 1983, so I'd say it's been replaced.

#125 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The curved flippers are way more fun.

I've never seen or played a Time Warp or Disco Fever in the wild, how did they get the rubber to stick to the inner concavity of the flipper? Some sort of glue?

#126 1 year ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I've never seen or played a Time Warp or Disco Fever in the wild, how did they get the rubber to stick to the inner concavity of the flipper? Some sort of glue?

The rubber is molded Into the same curved shape as the bat.

#127 1 year ago
Quoted from Timerider:

The rubber is molded Into the same curved shape as the bat.

Adding to that, examples I've seen have double sided adhesive tape on the working side of the flipper bat.

#128 1 year ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I've never seen or played a Time Warp or Disco Fever in the wild, how did they get the rubber to stick to the inner concavity of the flipper? Some sort of glue?

Here is a pic of the original blue molded flipper covers. You can see it's a one piece mold that goes over the flipper entirely.
-Mike

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#129 1 year ago
Quoted from WhiskeyPinball:

That chip is in a dip socket though

Oh gotcha. I didn't notice it was in a socket.

#130 1 year ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I've never seen or played a Time Warp or Disco Fever in the wild, how did they get the rubber to stick to the inner concavity of the flipper? Some sort of glue?

Originally, Williams sold a **boot** that was Gold or Light Blue that fit exactly over the bat.

They became harder and harder to find, so ops started using Contact Cement to adhere a normal flipper rubber to the bat. When the rubber wore out, you removed it with paint thinner.

I see the yellow boots sometimes for sale, but I have not seen a blue one in a decade.
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#131 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I see the yellow boots sometimes for sale, but I have not seen a blue one in a decade.

I fell on a nos set of blue on Ebay that was dumb cheap(shipping was more expensive)and just waiting for the right moment to use them.
-Mike

#132 1 year ago

Here, I'm testing the GI before installing the playfield in Absolute Ali's Time Warp

IMG0807_HDR (resized).jpg

Much easier to trouble shoot that stuff when it's still on the rotisserie!

-

The game has the translucent blue pop bumper bodies from Zit

Sunlight GI from Comet

Clear rubber from Titan

Aluminum reflector over all the wood behind the GI

2PAC clearcoat

Modern Williams flipper mechs

#133 1 year ago

vid1900
That looks good, love the blue arrow inserts.
-Mike

#134 1 year ago

I 've have done a few TWs with the blue arrows.

There were 5 cracked ones on this one, and I only had 3 in my junkbox.

But Ali totally was down with the blue.

#135 1 year ago

vid1900

Playfield looks outstanding. Also, like how you incorporated the blue arrows and translucent blue pop bumper bodies.

On a separate note, do you have any playfield scans of the double snake and/or space wizard / druid? I have some areas where the paint is gone in that section and want to make some waterslides.

#136 1 year ago

Well Gents,

Happy to report that my Time Warp is working almost 100% (need to adjust my left target bank - targets drop and reset when new game starts but does not reset during game).

I did the following:

Bulletproof power supply, cut battery holder off MPU and installed Pinitech NVRAM (I really like how these have a small footprint and almost look OEM)

Replaced resistors on driver board and fixed cracked solder joints on all boards (didn’t find many), 40 pin looks relatively new so I didn’t touch it.

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#137 1 year ago

As a follow up, I will be making labels for the MPU and power supply, replace the capacitors on the sound board, and do the bridge rectifier safety modification (just waiting on an order from Jameco.

#138 1 year ago

I believe this is 100% correct (the one in the manual is incomplete and confusingly phrased).

Check my work please before I send to IPDB......

TIME-WARP-SWITCH-MATRIX (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#139 1 year ago

Some segments are missing on p1 p2 and credit/ball . Tracked it down to these two burnt up resistors on the master board. Were getting really hot so I snipped them.

Any idea on the values so I can replace?

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#140 1 year ago

The user manual shows the values.

#141 1 year ago

10K 5% assuming the colors are Brown,Black,Orange,Gold (that's what it looks like on my phone)

#142 1 year ago

Schematic calls for 10% so looks like 5% would work/ is working as well. Just checking using a 5% would be fine.

Oddly I found another schematic that calls for them (R4 and R5) to be 100k ohm which doesnt match up to what's in there and seems to be working. Any thoughts?

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#143 1 year ago

Yes it will work fine. 5% is actually a tighter tolerance.

7 months later
#144 5 months ago

I'd like to have a supply of fuses for my TW just in case I ever need them. I have the original boards. Can anyone give me a list all the fuses? I think these are all 1 1/4". So far I know:

Sound board (2): ?, ?
Power board (5): 10A, 8A, 4A, 2.5ASB, 1/4ASB
Fuse card below power board (3): ?, ?, ?

#145 5 months ago

Anyone know which shade of blue Time Warp is? I need to touch mine up around the cabinet.

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