(Topic ID: 290525)

Lethal Weapon behaving erratic

By ortizluis985

3 years ago


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    #1 3 years ago

    I bought a Lethal Weapon dataeast game used like 2 years ago. Ever since I got it, the game had a weird symptom. You know the hinges you pull in order to lift the playfield right? If I put them in their place, the game starts to behave erratic. It thinks that I lost even though it is not true. Or it thinks the ball passed the ramp even if it didn't. Verry erratic behavior. The only way it works correctly is if I have it like in the picture below. Basically the playfield is a bit lifted for it to work properly.

    What do you guys think can be causing this? Attached you will see a picture of how I can get the game to work properly.

    I am new to the pinball machine world, any help is appreciated it.

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    #2 3 years ago
    Quoted from ortizluis985:

    What do you guys think can be causing this?

    Switches that need adjusting comes to mind.

    LTG : )

    #3 3 years ago

    ortizluis985 Welcome to Pinside! Any relation to ortizluis927 ?

    Page 24 of your manual describes the switch test. If I were troubleshooting I would run through that test when the game is working and again when the playfield is in the 'correct' position. Could be pinched wire(s), misadjusted switches, shorts somewhere...

    When you find what switches (or lamps) are malfunctioning you'll have a better idea of where to look to fix the issue.

    Let us know how it goes! If you need a manual, IPDB.org has an online copy that will help until you can get a paper copy.

    #4 3 years ago

    LTG , YeOldPinPlayer thank you both for your replies. I do have the manual on PDF. I will do the tests over the weekend and will post back the results. Thx!

    About the ortizluis927 question. Yes I was trying to regain access to that acount and wasn't able to reset the password so I opened a new one. It seems like a great community!

    #5 3 years ago

    LTG YeOldPinPlayer hey guys just wanted to give you an update. I ran the tests for both scenarios
    1. Playfield is working good: no switches were being activated except if I activated them.
    2. Playfield in correct position with erratic behavior.: Started with the switch test none screen. Then I simulated like I was playing, maybe moving the machine a little, and five culprits are getting activated that match the behavior I noticed

    Center top lane grn- blu wht -red #42
    Ramp exit grn -vio Wht -red #50
    Not used grn -gry Wht -red #58
    4th coin grn -brn Wht -red #02
    Left 4 bank #3 Grn -orn Wht -red #18

    I checked that the playfield was not pinching the wires somehow and it seems ok. You guys mentioned they may need adjustment? How can you adjust them? What other test would you recommend.

    I included a picture of every switch position for reference.

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    #6 3 years ago
    Quoted from ortizluis985:

    How can you adjust them?

    Check them in switch test with a finger.

    In the picture you'd gently bend where the black arrows point. A tiny bit at a time. Back or forward as needed.

    LTG : )

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    #7 3 years ago

    All those are in row 2. Pinwiki has a process to determine if you’re having a board problem or a playfield problem: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Complete_.28or_most_of_a.29_Column.2FRow_of_Switches_Not_Working

    If it’s on the playfield I’d suspect a short somewhere on the red/white wire.

    EDIT: Thinking a little more about this. Given the game works with the playfield up I’m thinking that red/white wire is shorting somewhere. I’m not familiar enough with how the switch matrix works to know if an intermittent short to ground would give phantom hits like you’re seeing or if it’s getting stray voltage. You might disconnect CN10 and see if you have continuity to ground if you perform the same actions you did when you found the phantom switch hits.
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    #8 3 years ago

    I tried adjusting one of the switches just to check if it disappeared from the culprit list. Thinking that maybe all five needed adjustment. Same switches came on again. But now you point out that all are on the second row, so the short theory is gaining support here.

    I do have a voltimeter but I am not very familiar on how to diagnose these type of issues. I will look for youtube videos and ask some friends that now a bit more about diagnosing shorts to see if that can help. I will post updates when I do more troubleshoot. Thank you both for the helpful hints.

    #9 3 years ago

    I’m wondering about that 4th coin switch. Not sure where it’s located but it’s probably up near the front and that makes me suspicious.

    #10 3 years ago

    Me too. I tried locating it but I wasn’t able to. Gonna do a google search to see what comes up.

    #12 3 years ago

    I did the continuity test on the diodes for each of the identified switch. Found two interesting things.

    #42 switch - I monitored the ohms and when the switch was activated it had very high spikes. 41 and 43 were around the same normal ohms reading

    #50 switch - Looks to be opened, touched both sides with a multimeter and it did not go to zero when the switch wasn't activated. All other diodes made the multimeter go to zero if the switch was inactive.

    Do you guys think this diode could be the issue?

    #13 3 years ago

    Apologies if I’m repeating things you already know. I’m trying to understand your methodology.

    A diode shows resistance in one direction. Depending on your meter there could be a specific diode test. It matters which test lead goes to which leg. Assuming a properly functioning switch if you close the switch with one test lead on the input and the other on the output you’ll get continuity when the leads are in one position and some resistance when you switch the positions of the leads.

    Game should be off when testing. For the most reliable diode test disconnect one leg of the diode.

    Diode orientation matters when you replace them. Your schematic will show which way the signal flows. It’s critical you get them on right. Verify them, prior repair could have made a mistake.

    Post photos if you’re unsure.

    #14 3 years ago

    No need to apologize. Like I said, I am new to all of this so I am just watching youtube videos and reading stuff in this forum to learn. I didn't know that about the direction and that it matters which lead goes to the lead. I will review the schematics in the next few days to be sure that I did the tests correctly.

    Thanks.

    #15 3 years ago

    Quick update so yea i did the tests correctly and it looks like two diodes are acting up from the affected row in the switch matrix. I ordered the parts.

    1 month later
    #16 2 years ago

    Hey guys. Problem solved. Two things were affecting the game. One bad diode and a pinched cable. I found a cable that was a little peeled up and was making contact with the metal bracket where the playfield rests. Used some electrical tape, rearrange everything and problem solved! Thanks to all that posted for your help.

    #17 2 years ago

    Hey guys. Problem solved. Two things were affecting the game. One bad diode and a pinched cable. I found a cable in the affected line of switches that was a little peeled up and was making contact with the metal bracket where the playfield rests. I was able to recreate the issue by making sure the cable had contact with the bracket on purpose. Used some electrical tape, rearrange everything so it would not get pinched and problem solved! Thanks to all that posted for your help.

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