Lethal weapon 3 no DMD display and game not playing at all

(Topic ID: 31283)

Lethal weapon 3 no DMD display and game not playing at all


By bigwheels

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Crash
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 5 years ago

Hello I have a lethal weapon 3 pinball machine which was working great until very recently the DMD display went fuzzy (no clear picture of anything just a load of dots moving around) and the game was noisier than normal, speaker buzzing etc, anyway at this stage the game played as normal with the exception of the DMD displaying garbage.

Things soon went from bad to worse when I tried to diagnose the problem at the power supply board and unfortunately I had an accident with the multimeter probe whilst working at arms length stood on a chair etc I accidently very briefly shorted the +12v test pin at the top of the power supply to the +5v test pin when the multimeter probe dropped through the wire test loop at the top of the PCB.

Now when I power up the game the only signs of life are "I hear the words back in action" and the lights behind the backglass flash alternately as designed I think with the general illumination lamp lit in the playfield.

I have checked voltages on the Power supply with everything plugged in, all the values are reasonably in spec bar the -12v which is reading -15.5v

On the CPU board the +5v LED is constantly lit together with the PIA no flashing of LEDs at all

The power board is original with a few broken fuse holders and soldered in fuses which I planned to repair with new fuse holders (it was on my list of things to do!). I have removed the power board and checked across the fuses with a multimeter and I get a 0 to 1 ohm reading across each fuse so I think they are all OK.

Also there is +5v at the CPU board and DMD Board

I have checked every fuse on this machine I think

I am at a loss were to start with the repair as I don't own another Data east game to swap out boards etc and i am wondering if I have knackered the games eprom or processor chip.

Your help would be greatfully received on this problem before I start replacing things in hope etc

Thanks in advance Dave

#2 5 years ago

Sorry to hear about problem..I can only tell you that I messed around with a DE Hook and all kinds of stuff was happening with the DMD..there was garbage on it, it would go blank..etc....I tried everything...and it turned out to be a cracked fuse holder. Anyway, pull the fused and meter them outside and inspect the holders. DE is notorious for cheap fuse holders. Hope this helps..GL
kam

#3 5 years ago

Thanks for that its a good place to start as the fuse holder are relatively inexpensive, I will replace all the affected fuse holders in the Power supply and report back. i just need to order the bits and find my desolder gun!!

There is also some tag blocks leading to the power supply I would like to remove and solder wires together with heat shrink etc.

Before disaster struck with shorting the +5v and the +12v together at the power supply the display would read OK for a second or so it was just enough time to display the leathal weapon cmos version then back to garbled.

#4 5 years ago

Check all the connectors and closely look at the power supply board. These data east machines are notorious for issues here. Pull each and every fuse out of the holder. If the holder is weak replace it. I had three damaged boards on my tales from the crypt.

#5 5 years ago

Thanks I am planning an overhaul of the fuse holders on the power supply board I have just ordered the parts new fuse holders etc and new solder sucker since I can't find it!

I have just had a thought on the software eproms and processor they may be OK as the game says "back in action " when I power it up opinions much invited on this thought.

The fuse holders are a real mess soldered in broken corroded fuses etc I think many service engineer bodges need to be corrected in order to attempt to diagnose further,I will try to put some pictures up on here for all to see

thanks

#6 5 years ago

I had a similar situation happen with my Lethal Weapon 3. It was working fine, then I had someone come over to look at buying it and when I turned it on, that same thing with the DMD, "Back in Action," general illumination happened. Perfect timing, right? I ended up selling it anyways and found out from the buyer that the fix was a new power supply board. (I actually think he sent the original off and had it worked on.) Hope that helps!

#7 5 years ago

Thanks for that you have gave me some hope all is not lost, I feel quite depressed about pinball at the moment I have two pins and it seems when ever I get one fixed the other on develops a new fault.The last fault on the other one was a broken end of stroke switch on gottlieb gladiators left flipper! I was in a daily routine of playing them both for for a couple of games each before disaster struck!

Anyway I plan to pull the power supply board and replace the fuse holders when time permits hopefully soon!

1 year later
#8 4 years ago

Well I know its been some time since I last posted about this pin but its still not fixed, I purchased a new power supply board and fitted and it today to no avail same fault. So I removed the game eprom at 5c and turned on the machine and got exactly the same reaction without eprom in so I have ordered another one. got 5v and pia led illuminated with no blanking.

1 week later
#9 4 years ago

The new Game Eprom arrived today so I put it in the game and it fired up I have now got the blanking led illuminated, But I still have an intermittently fuzzy DMD any thoughts?

#10 4 years ago

Check your voltages on the display connector. In DC volts test (set to 200v if manual select meter) attach black lead to ground strap and red lead from left to right on the display connector. DO NOT jump pins, be very careful and touch them one at a time with your red lead. Report what you find, sounds like your cathode or anode voltage is too high. What brand of power supply did you buy?

#11 4 years ago

I just had a funky failure of sorts with my LAH, I fixed everything and the display was still blank, so I finally wised up and checked the 2 fuses that are bolted to the backbox under the BR's. the bottom one feeds the DMD. Check them out, Btw, DO NOT check fuses on the D.E. games with them in the holder, take them out and test..trust me.

#12 4 years ago

Actually I've learned there is a way to check fuses without removing them. Just test for voltage across both terminals. If it's 0 you're ok. If there is voltage then the fuse is open. In the case of an open fuse, there is a voltage difference across the 2 terminals and that will get picked up by the meter like any other source of power. If it's good the voltage across the 2 terminals is the same, which means no difference in potential and a reading of 0 on the meter.

#13 4 years ago

Hello Crash, Top tip on checking fuses the the multimeter voltage with the pin on, I've just been through the lot and popped them out one at a time to test! Anyway I've found an erratic voltage on vcc in the DMD connector should be +68v it tends to pulse + 10v and the display responds with a different garbled pattern. I bought a rottendog PSU board but I might put the old one back it to see what happens as when the pin was cold I had a perfect display then it became a garbled one.

The saga continues!!!!

#14 4 years ago

Ive also buzzed out the DMD to CPU ribbon cable with a multimeter all OK

#15 4 years ago

Oh you're using a Rottendog board? I would avoid those as they have a flawed high voltage design. The regulators are being driven out of spec and can fail prematurely in a nasty fashion. But that wouldn't cause the ripple you are seeing in the cathode supply. The presence of ripple would cause rolling bars on the DMD. Try again with your original power supply. If that solves it I would send the defective Rottendog back and get an X-Pin board from xpinpinball.com. Buy it from K's Arcade on the distributors page. A little more expensive but I've heard they are designed better than the original boards and other aftermarket brands.

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