Hey guys. I recently purchased a LW3. It’s our first real pin. I bought it from the proverbial “it’s just a fuse” guy. Luckily I suspected larger issues and got the game pretty cheap.

I’m troubleshooting today. Game will not boot (two LEDs lit but the third that is suppose to come on never does) and beacon comes on continuously along with one solenoid and then voltage starts falling as evidenced by beacon slowing down. Only random DMD illumination for first 30 seconds then blank. Some GI lights are on and stable. With only CN1 and CN2 connected to power supply I get 4 volts and +14/-14 volts at test points. The 4 volt reading will start at 3 volts and slowly climb to four over several minutes.

On the CN 1 connector I get

Orange wires 42 VDC
Violet wire 19 VDC
Green 97 VAC
Red 120 VAC
Gry/Grn 10.8 VAC
Gray 10.8 VAC

There is some minor smoke residue behind TR3 and TR4 on board. Also the four 4700 umf capacitors have minor smoke residue when I wipe them. The board relay has smoke residue inside plastic housing. Green board film is pealing on some of the traces. Otherwise I don’t see any damage to board and connectors are not stained/damaged.

This is a factory 520-5047-01.

What do you guys think? Should I order a new power supply? Should I consider transformer? If so how do I troubleshoot it?

I’m determined to resurrect this game and make it beautiful. As an aside the two wire forms behind the flippers are missing. If anyone has two spares I’m in the market. Otherwise I will build some. Are they threaded on ends with nuts under playfield? Also on the apron, behind the chrome DE logo is a small square with some gummy glue in it. What attaches here?

Thanks
Lane

Here are pictures of the above described board. Doesn’t look to bad to my untrained eyes.

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Missing wire forms behind flippers. Gibson is laughing at me. “You will never play me again Newbie”?

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I did not test the cpu. Yesterday I had everything unplugged except CN1 and CN2. I was trying to unload power board and prevent the one coil that locks on from being toasted. I hate to hear the center post is a mod. I’ll probably remove and fill hole.

The solenoid that fires and remains on is the one that kicks vertically into the hamster trail that crosses right to left over the top.

I’m contemplating tapping 5 volts into the cpu today using a small voltage regulator board I have from the Vpin build. I think I can ensure mpu Will boot by applying a good 5 volt source to mpu test points.

I love VPUniverse. I’m the dude coloring Batman Forever. I’ve got a thread under the Pin2Dmd colorization!

I’m feeling positive about my progress today. I wired and calibrated a small voltage regulator circuit I had left over from my Vpin build. Once I had some leads soldered on the board I calibrated it to 5 volts and hooked it to the test points on the MPU board. Initially the blanking LED refused to do anything but blink. I ran the voltage up to 5.2 volts and reseated all the EPROMs. Voila, the blanking LED illuminated! The board now boots up in just a couple of seconds.

I’m confident that the machine will work eventually, so tonight I ordered a new power supply board (Pin Tek) from Marco. I was confident enough that I also ordered new rubbers and drop targets.

Amazing how a little red light can make you feel so good.