The gottlieb displays are already semi alphanumeric, they might be good enough.

The gottlieb displays aren't BCD, or rather the BCD decoder is on the MPU, and the raw segment info is sent to the display. This is what allows aftermarket MPUs to display psuedo-text on them.

How are you going to wire them all together?

Most flippers of any game 70s/after?

I think Hobbit may be a contender for most coils. Two coils per drop target! HH is definitely in its own league though..

Why put all the 10 put switches separately? Gottlieb put them in parallel originally, seems like it could potentially save you a board

Most flippers have been MPU controlled since the 90s. WPC had about 4ms lag; apparently not noticeable.

Meanwhile, all modern games are running a full linux system and are fine. Also every other PROC homebrew project out there also has software flippers, again with no complaints. Even with a few layers of python scripting thrown in, it's pretty hard for an if statement to take multiple milliseconds

The PROC driver boards don't actually have inputs on them though, right? So the signal still has to go through the input board, to the PROC driver on the computer, and back out at least?

So it's actually firing the flippers directly from the SW-16 to the driver, no need to go up to the computer over usb at all?

Note that the 38V is actually just the 24V with a big capacitor on it. Works out well though to give the bumpers extra juice

Might want to check if both transformers are needed (iirc, there's two?). Might be able to sell one

Do you have any idea what software is good for doing that, when you're talking a whole machine? I've got stuff for circuit boards, but haven't been able to find anything good for power/playfield wiring

I've set mine up with a 4 outlet box, with some outlets live for service, some connected to the power switch, and also an extra switch to toggle the HV without killing the logic

Isn't that going to cause big issues? All the coils are 24V, not 48v, I don't think you'll be able to dial it back that much in software...

Have you tried disconnecting the grond distribution board from the line in stuff (everything the transformer and before), to rule that out?

Seems like something must be wrong with your driver board if it's giving the coils a path to ground

Your schematic looks right to me, same thing I'm doing on my game (except I'm not using PROC, so..). I don't know what actually goes on inside their board since they don't provide schematics, so it's hard to say what could be happening to cause the LED to light

If you're going to have to redo the wiring anyway, would it be worthwhile to re-use gottlieb's per-coil fuse banks?

What rating is the coil? I've had issues where very high current coils weren't being handled well by the mosfets...
Maybe use a weaker coil at higher voltage?

Looks like it's a 23-575 run off the 38v via a relay. I'd be real curious to see if it fires stronger via a relay, or via a tip36c driven by the mosfets, as well as whether your flippers have their full strength once you get them wired up. My homebrew is also using gottlieb flippers with the same coils, and I was unable to drive them at full strength using an irl540, which I think is what your boards are using? Not sure if there's an issue there or some issue on my end though... At this point it's beyond my electronics knowledge

That's what I tried to do on my build, but I ran into issues with continuous coils. I think some of the mechs on HH like the trap door use a double wound coil w/ EOS, on the 24V line. The extra voltage from the 38v overheated the coil. Another coil I tried to dial back as much as possible, but couldn't find a good sweet spot with the 38v and adjusted timings. Had no issues with the 24v. Better to run the mechs on the voltage they were designed for, imo.

I'm using custom boards, but as far as I know they'd be equivalent here. IRL540Ns, and I copied my PWM timings from the MPF PROC code. Using an original Gottlieb transformer like you. Originally I ran everything on the 38V, and I ended up having to redo most of my coil wiring to move them to the 24V. In the end only my pop bumper, main flippers, and a few other misc things use the 38V. Even my flippers will get concerningly hot if held up for a few minutes on the 38V. Unlikely to happen during play since they'll have a lot of literal 'down time' to cool off, but. My most recent post (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-poker-poker-time-undecided-poker-themed-homebrew/page/2#post-5644941) discusses this, and some other PWM issues I had that were resolved by moving my up posts/etc off the 38V.

Did you wire the uppers and lowers to 24 or 38?

I think the flippers on the non-main playfields were 24 originally

What was the reasoning for using the mini fit Jr?