Spooky should buy a whole bunch from you and send them to the fang club members.

Let me know when you do Star Trek.

You seem to be concentrating on modern Sterns... so I was suggesting Stern specifically.
That said; I own all Star Treks... so any is cool with me.

Wait; wouldn't it be easier to convert this to RFM, with just a rule sheet change?
Have the later; not the former.

Screw that.. stng was next, no fair doing Mando

https://media.giphy.com/media/l0HlBO7eyXzSZkJri/giphy.mp4

Such a worthless and pointless bump. No one cares about Munsters.
We were promised another title and haven't see it.
https://giphy.com/gifs/hulu-hulu-original-moone-boy-l0HlBO7eyXzSZkJri

I was promised Star Trek in post #164 it never materialized.

Correct.
Stern star trek fits your modern stern lean tho

How do we order the clear film version for back lighting?

Got my Stern Star trek cards on Friday.
I don't have the backlight for them yet... but will post pictures when I have them installed and lit.

Data east you say? Another opportunity for star trek ☺️

Can you get stng in clear for backlight?

I'm secretly hoping for The artist formally known as prince cards

Confirmed. He's This Old Tony

So the new design with better vertical "resolution" is what is being beta tested?
I still haven't put the old Stern Star trek design in my game (Waiting on a custom designed a 3d Printed "frame" to arrive from china). Should be here "any day now".

If you want me to grab in-game photos of the better Stern Star trek; I'm good with that.

Awesome.
My frames are supposed to be delivered on Friday. Hopefully I can get them polished and powder coated this weekend

After many months of planning, building, testing, iterating... I'm finally ready to show off a custom set of frames for ralphwiggum 's Apron Cards.

First; I knew I didn't want to use the standard holes on my Star Trek LE to hold the cards. I wanted to back light the cards; but not have the card's corners tuck into the apron which is stock. For backlighting; I went with Pinball.Center's NoFlix EL Panels. But I was going to need some kind of frame top hold both the EL Panel and the 3D Apron Card. I spent some time in OpenSCAD to design frame which would mount to the existing apron holes; but allow the two parts work together.

Here's one of my initial revisions as rendered by Shapeways:
http://shpws.me/TvnK
I would not recommend attempting to order this as I don't believe this is the most up-to date.

I did a test print in black plastic from Shapeways; but found some issues. Did a few correction then had it printed via PCBWay because their Aluminum 3D printing service was much cheaper that Shapeways metallic. I wanted to do it in aluminum/metal so I could Powder Coat the frames to match the game.

Once I received the frames; I used some sandpaper to remove the rough top surface texture of the 3d Print so the frames would look a little more like the armor of my STLE:
3D Printed in Aluminum
I then powder coated the frame in Blue Candy:
Uncured Blue Powder Coat
And then baked the coat per instructions resulting in:
Cured Candy Blue

Once I had the frames; it was time to wire it up. The NoFlix kit came with two cards and two inverters; but, I decided to use a single inverter to minimize the amount of components added to the game. I also wanted wire the inverter up with the positive attached to the laser "positive" rail under the apron. This positive rails is at 20VDC which is too hot for the 12VDC input of the regulator. Therefore, I bought an adjustable switching regulator from Amazon wiring it in parallel as required to function. The hot input of the regulator went to the laser power's hot... and the ground went to my GI_Dimmer as GPIO8 so that I can control the backlight during klingon multiball. Basically the card is "on" during normal game play; but off during KMB so the laser show continues to pop. The regular was adjusted to 12VDC before hooking it up to the inverter; then, verified for 12VDC with full load attached.

The design of the frame is such that #4-40 screws are attach to the bottom frame and the "breakaway" tabs are put at right angles so the mount directly to the existing apron holes:
existing apron slots
Power for the EL panel comes out one of the holes. The two EL panels are then connected in parallel and connected to the bottom surface of the apron with a zip tie and a tie anchor.
tidy up

I didn't grab a picture but the dc-dc regulator and the inverter were attached to a piece of aluminum extrusion which was inturn attached to PF under the apron on the right side. With that the Apron cards were connected to the output of the inverter and it was re-attached to the game as normal. Here's the final look:
Crew
Instruction Card
And finally a video to show installation and 3D effects: