(Topic ID: 320376)

Left Flipper only works, weakly, when PF is raised.

By MtnFrost

1 year ago


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#1 1 year ago

Gottlieb 1984 "The Games"

Rebuilt both flippers with new rebuild kit, brand new coil on the left flipper (old one was burnt out). Right flipper is very strong. Left doesn't work at all when level, but works weakly when raised. I thought this might be a relay coil issue, but that would affect both. Ideas? Thanks

#2 1 year ago

I'd investigate whatever burned out that flipper coil. Whatever damaged that one could still be wreaking havoc. My first thought was that the wiring to the coil may be incorrect, did you verify the wires are going to the correct lugs?

I'm thinking if you swapped the wiring from the old coil to the new one in the same configuration, it may be possible the problem has been carried from the old coil to the new one. Did this problem happen recently, or did the game have this problem when you got it?

#3 1 year ago

I would guess your end of stroke is open on that side and the flipper slop slightly closes it when the playfield is up.

#4 1 year ago

I'll check and report back. It came this way, but if the wiring was reversed (and I don't believe it is), it wouldn't operate correctly even upright, would it? Odd that it is so weak compared to the other, which is really strong.

#5 1 year ago

I fiddled with the end of stroke switch, and I was able to get it to operate a little less upright, but still weak. But I'll try to adjust it proper and see. Another clue is, there is a pop bumper that fires often when I press the left flipper switch - not consistent, but the pop bumpers switch is gapped wide by me on purpose, so it's not very sensitive in game play. In other words, it's not that the pop bumper switch is closing on vibration. And this is without any vibration or movement from the left flipper.

#6 1 year ago

Definitely not the EOS switch. Open to suggestions. This was what it looked like before I did the flipper rebuild. Confirmed the wiring is the same as you see here. (but much cleaner. I know it looks like frayed wires were touching, but they weren't back then, just the camera angle.)

IMG_5024 (resized).JPGIMG_5024 (resized).JPG

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from MtnFrost:

Definitely not the EOS switch. Open to suggestions. This was what it looked like before I did the flipper rebuild. Confirmed the wiring is the same as you see here. (but much cleaner. I know it looks like frayed wires were touching, but they weren't back then, just the camera angle.)
[quoted image]

It's not so much the wiring of the EOS, although that is crucial, as the timing. The EOS should open the thickness of a dime at the last possible moment.

Too early and you lose some power. Too late (not open at all) and you burn up.the coil. Stuck open and the flipper won't work.

Always test by pushing the plunger in. This eliminates any slack in the crank and yoke.

#8 1 year ago

Power off, check resistance across closed EOS switch. If more than one ohm, sand contacts until under 1 ohm. Also check voltages on each lug of the coil. Compare to readings on right coil.

2 weeks later
#9 1 year ago

Values seem fine, and the EOS looks correct. The wiring on the flipper is correct. Two things:

1) Flipper only operates while PF raised, but even then only weakly. Sometimes one of the pop bumpers goes off with the flipper.
2) when lowered, flipper does not operate, but one of the bumpers randomly fires - not consistently, but often, and without any movement - just me pushing the left flipper button. Almost as if somewhere the wiring was close, and the current was sometimes jumping to the pop bumper wiring. And only while I'm pushing the flipper button.

#10 1 year ago

Sounds like the hold winding is working but the main winding isn't . The flipper works when pf is upright because gravity is helping the hold power lower the flipper. This is normally a bad normally closed EOS, but you checked it already.

I know it is a new coil, but have you tested the ohms on it (not the EOS)? I've received bad coils before.

You can also jumper the flipper coils together while they are installed. Wire the bad flipper to the good flipper and see if they both work when using the good flipper button. If they do, the issue is the wiring to the coil, if they don't it is the wiring at the coil.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

Sounds like the hold winding is working but the main winding isn't . The flipper works when pf is upright because gravity is helping the hold power lower the flipper. This is normally a bad normally closed EOS, but you checked it already.
I know it is a new coil, but have you tested the ohms on it (not the EOS)? I've received bad coils before.
You can also jumper the flipper coils together while they are installed. Wire the bad flipper to the good flipper and see if they both work when using the good flipper button. If they do, the issue is the wiring to the coil, if they don't it is the wiring at the coil.

You were right! First, since I just gotten a spare coil from Steve, I replaced the ebay one, just in case. Same deal. I just wasn't seeing the slight gap in the EOS at rest. I could here the coil energizing, but not working when down. A quick fix and we're up and running. Thank you.

They only other issue I still have is that one pop bumper randomly going off. First thing I would suspect is the spoon switch set too touchy. I thought I checked it already, but I'm going to take another look. Anything else it could be? Only fires in direct timing to pushing flipper buttons, but not always.

#12 1 year ago

I'd start with adjusting the spoon.

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