(Topic ID: 225979)

LEDs work but not incandescent bulbs?

By PiLgRiM

5 years ago


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#2 5 years ago

Those are "controlled lamps", just like on the playfield. I would test for DC voltage at those vs. the other controlled lamps in the game that are working properly. If you find a difference, you probably have an issue with that controlled lamp string. Could also be a bad socket. Try removing ALL the controlled lamps with a problem and see if you get voltage at either socket pin. Test with red lead in socket, and black lead on ground braid in head. If it checks ok, test one bulb at a time until you find the bad socket. Should see about 6VDC at one of the leads in each socket.

Ultimately, it's going to come down to a bad socket/bulb or a shoddy wire connected to the lamp section of the MPU/driver board in the head.

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from wdennie:

Had this problem on my Xenon, it was a bad SCR on the lamp board.

This is a Williams system 11.

#9 5 years ago

In that case it would be Q66. Wouldn't hurt to check the other things I mentioned as well.
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#16 5 years ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

It is possible you have a partially burned out "slow burn fuse" effecting the area. That would give the symptoms you are talking about. They can "look good" but be partially bad in reality. If you have an identical fuse elsewhere in the machine on a strip of lights, you could try trading them out and seeing if that fixes it. If you need replacement fuses, they sell them at Home Depot...

There is no such thing in this machine. Controlled lamps are strobed, using the same power source for all strands. You are confusing this with the GI strings that DO typically have multiple fuses for each string.

The suggestions seem to be pointing the OP in the opposite direction regarding what the transistor actually does in the lamp circuit. Just replace Q66. It's the most likely cause and it's $1. Also, a transistor can test good and still be bad under load.

For future reference, the Q65 transistor grounds the circuit. It does not "provide voltage" in any way. The bulb sockets should ALWAYS have (+) DC voltage (through Q66). This transistor grounds the circuit to light the lamps, just like with a coil/solenoid in a pinball machine.

You see, there are two items at work. First, the voltage supplied to the lamp sockets (which is probably ok unless you have a bad socket/bulb or broken wire) , and 2nd is the ability for the game to ground those circuit and in turn, light each lamp.

#20 5 years ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

Williams games use 18 volts going to one set of lamp transistors and these are power cycled at such a rate that the power at the sockets ends up being around 6 volts. You can check for voltage at the back tabs of some of the transistors and compare a correctly working circuit to a malfunctioning one.

Everything here is correctly stated. If the strobing circuit (voltage circuit) is working properly, the socket will have it's + voltage.

I see what you mean now. If the strobing circuitry is not working properly, there could be a problem with a transistor or other component in that circuit as well. I left out Q65 (the grounding trans.) in my response above (now revised).

#22 5 years ago

It's time consuming enough to pull the board so I would replace them both at the same time. If that does not work, check output of U53 (pin 11).

#26 5 years ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

Still not quite correct.
The lamp strobe circuits (the columns transistors and Q52-Q66) turn the voltage supply on and off to the lamp sockets. The lamp Return circuits (the row transistors Q80-87) are the ones connecting the lamp sockets to ground.
It takes 2 circuits turning on, the strobe and the return, to turn on one lamp.

I realize this. Nothing new to me here but thanks for trying.

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