(Topic ID: 70619)

Led's in Gorgar special board?


By zod

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 24 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by leckylove
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 7 years ago

Do you need a lamp/led driver replacement board before putting led's in Gorgar? I don't see one on the Alltec site, let me know. THANKS

#2 7 years ago

Would like to hear from someone who has done this as well, but also check out the comments in this thread:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-light-bulbs

I'm assuming that applies to Gorgar so GI is ok but not inserts. Haven't tried it yet myself.

#3 7 years ago

From what I have read, they will work in the GI, for controlled lights you need to modify the board or add a resistor to the LED to make the transistor "latch."

#4 7 years ago

I put LEDs in my Gorgar, looks great, The only problem I had was the pop bumpers, the single led ablaze lights
would not work, when I changed over to a 4 light super bright from pinball life it worked fine.
If done tastefully it will look great

#5 7 years ago

I used cointaker. Some super bright, some 4 light supers. No issues with OEM driver board.

#6 7 years ago

The only special issue with putting LEDs in Gorgar is with the flashers for the magnet lamps. If you put 89 LEDs in there you have to remove the 330 ohm 2w resistor on the flasher board otherwise the LEDs will stay on all the time.

viperrwk

9 months later
#7 6 years ago

SO I cut the 330 ohm off. So I need to jump that or just leave it?

#8 6 years ago

I am having trouble with some single LEDS under the back glass. What rate resistor do I need put on the LED to make it work? I have read 470ohm 1/4 watt but not sure.

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

SO I cut the 330 ohm off. So I need to jump that or just leave it?

Leave it off.

Quoted from agodfrey:

I am having trouble with some single LEDS under the back glass. What rate resistor do I need put on the LED to make it work? I have read 470ohm 1/4 watt but not sure.

Not sure what you are talking about - if you have an LED lamp that plugs into either the controlled lamps (game over, player #, etc) or the GI, it should just work, assuming you bought the correct LED in the first place.

viperrwk

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

Not sure what you are talking about

I have no idea why. This has happened in a few different games (Time Warp, Blackout) but for some reason SOME of the sockets (GI and Backbox) ONLY work with 4 SMD lights or tungsten, not single LED.

It's the oddest thing. One socket will work (for instance behind the word GORGAR on the backglass. 3 of the 6 sockets work with single LED, 3 don't) and the next won't with a single LED. If I put in a 4 SMD or tungsten it works.

#11 6 years ago

In my Power Play I had issues with LEDs strobing once I replaced the board with an Altek LED board it resolved the problem.

#12 6 years ago

It's not so much strobing as just not lighting at all. Just making sure I'm not missing something. I THINK I am looking for a 470 ohm resistor. Maybe I am totally out of my gourd...or GOURD-GAR

#13 6 years ago

You could have bad sockets - inside LED lamps there's usually one or more resistors which are necessary for the LED to operate properly. Sometimes, if there's only one resistor, the LED will not work correctly installed in one direction but will work if you install it in the other direction. If the socket is bad (sometimes an issue with 555 style LEDs) it won't work with the LED but will work with an incandescent.

You should not need to add a resistor to get LED lighting to work correctly. (Unless you're doing something out of the ordinary.)

viperrwk

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#14 6 years ago

Well I know the single LED don't work in the early SS pop bumpers. You have to use the mutli led ones. I was reading that it was because the single LEDs don't create enough resistance. I know this is an issue in the controlled lights. Just not sure if it was an issue in the uncontrolled ones too.

Then again....it could be the socket. Ia m using all bayonet sockets. Who knows. I'll dig a little more and then just replace the socket.

#15 6 years ago

Looks like those are 310ohm resistors which is what someone suggested. I guess I'll try that and then give up, ha. Thanks!!

#16 6 years ago

Someone created a ~$40 boardset that solved this issue for early Bally games, but I can't find the thread. I was actually going to order a bunch of them.

The other alternative is to solder a resister across all of the sockets to increase the current draw.

I have not heard of the multiple LED bulbs being enough draw to make them work.

#17 6 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Someone created a ~$40 boardset that solved this issue for early Bally games, but I can't find the thread. I was actually going to order a bunch of them.
The other alternative is to solder a resister across all of the sockets to increase the current draw.
I have not heard of the multiple LED bulbs being enough draw to make them work.

Think you might be referring to PAC MAN on the following post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-lights-in-bally-1978-ss-game-new-board-required

#18 6 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

The other alternative is to solder a resister across all of the sockets to increase the current draw.

What value resistor should I use? I am reading 300-500ohms.

#19 6 years ago

Early Bally and Williams machines differ in how they handle the controlled lamps and this may be causing you confusion.

In Bally machines, the lamps are each individually controlled by a transistor. LEDs do not draw enough current to light correctly on these machines and therefore need a resistor. The most elegant solution was developed by Hans Haase of Siegecraft:

http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=44&controller=product&id_lang=1

In Williams machines, the lamps are controlled in a 8x8 matrix where the intersection of two transistors turning on lights a particular lamp. A standard LED lamp with a resistor inside is usually enough to work without any other modifications. If a lamp is not working in a particular socket, it is usually either a bad lamp, bad socket, bad wiring or some combination of the above, assuming all the electronics are good.

viperrwk

#20 6 years ago

I used 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistors in a bally kings of steel worked perfect, I used pinball life 39 cent leds, some I had to turn 180 for them to light, but all worked, just strobed so after adding the resistors they all worked as they should.

#21 6 years ago

Ok. Interesting. As I said, the 4 SMDs work, tungsten works, but single LEDs do not (I tried about 5-8 per socket to be sure it wasn't the lamp, then tired the lamp in a different socket, all checked out). It's probably something weird with the socket.

I figured it was the same issue as the pop bumpers. Those I KNOW only work with mutli LED lights, VID told me so, ha. Anyway, I'll tinker around but I agree I'll prob just need to replace the socket.

#22 6 years ago

Probably the socket, I read there are two different style sockets, and some people were having problems with certain leds I games, check sockets for corrosion, check the bottom of socket where the end of bulb gets contact. Regular incadecent bulbs work?

#23 6 years ago
Quoted from crlush:

Regular incadecent bulbs work?

Yes. Regular incandescence tungsten lights work, mutli LEDs work,just not single LED. I'm sure it's prob the sockets being weird. I'll clean them out and see what happens.

#24 6 years ago

Sounds like a bad socket my machine worked with either singles or multi leds.

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