(Topic ID: 174672)

Led's in EM's


By PinballTom113

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 86 posts
  • 52 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by PinballFever
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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    There are 86 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 2 years ago

    Looking for suggestions for which led's work best for an EM!

    Thanks,
    Tom

    #2 2 years ago

    Comet Pinball has a "retro LED", frosted or clear. Frosted works best above the playfield and behind backglasses, and clear works well for below the playfield... "so I hear".

    cometpinball.com

    http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1retroled.htm

    They also have discounts for 25 packs and 100 packs (check out the big buttons) which I found to be pretty nice if I was ever going to order from them. I'd say make SURE you utilize this as it is a nice discount for each pack, most pinball machines require at least 100 bulbs.

    http://www.cometpinball.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=25-PACK-1RETROLED
    http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/100-pack-1retroled.htm

    The answer you are going to get from 99% of Pinside EM enthusiasts: Don't use LEDs, they don't look good in EMs

    17
    #3 2 years ago

    Incandescents work best in my EMs. And they cost less.

    #4 2 years ago

    I occasionally use warm whitish yellow cointaker frosted LEDs in my backglasses if I'm worried about heat. Doesn't take a lot to get it lit up looking about how it used to (no need to fill all the sockets).

    If I were going to put an EM on location where it'd be on all the time, I'd probably use some comet warm white frosted. They're not as bright as cointaker, closer to normal look. But I'd prefer that I could just leave some good 44s under cleaned inserts.

    #5 2 years ago

    I'm another vote for 'none of the above'.

    I put LED's in a few of my EM's a couple of years ago. All of mine have been switched back. The LED 'radioactive' look didn't look right in the older machines (in my opinion).

    11
    #6 2 years ago

    2014-04-27_210908 (resized).jpg

    #8 2 years ago

    I like warm white or white LEDs in my EMs.
    Pro- They are brighter, last way longer, and produce alot less heat.
    Con- cost substantially more.
    Color LEDs look terible in all EMs, and almost every other pinball- In my opion.
    The great part is that whatever you decide it is totaly reversable.
    Its your pin do what you want!
    I like Cointaker frosted bulbs and use them in just about everything.

    #9 2 years ago

    Retro warm white LEDs are all I will use in EMs...if I do. I generally don't put LEDs in EMs, but there are reasons to do so (power draw, heat, reliability, longevity). Anything colored looks really wrong, however. Stick to something that emulates an incandescent for best results.

    Here's the actual bulb I use: http://www.niftyled.com/retro-1/

    #10 2 years ago

    I've had good luck removing all different brands of LEDs from my EMs that others have installed. Maybe this year I can find a use for them.

    tree-bokeh-castle-bricker-M (resized).jpg

    #11 2 years ago

    I don't like led's in EM machines. Just me, everyone is different.

    #12 2 years ago
    Quoted from ryan1234:

    I like warm white or white LEDs in my EMs.
    Pro- They are brighter, last way longer, and produce alot less heat.
    Con- cost substantially more.
    Color LEDs look terible in all EMs, and almost every other pinball- In my opion.
    The great part is that whatever you decide is is totaly reversable.
    Its your pin do what you want!
    I like Cointaker frosted bulbs and use them in just about everything.

    I can't say I'm an LED for EM fan, but they can look good if applied properly. For example, using a like colored LED to illuminate a colored playfield insert really makes the insert pop. The same with backglass colors. Properly applied LEDs really enhance the color, and improve the look overall. It's tough to find a suitable LED replacement though for incandescent GI lighting.

    #13 2 years ago

    Unless you leave your games on 12 hours a day, there's no reason for them. It's especially funny when people try to find led's that look exactly like the bulbs they are removing.

    #14 2 years ago

    Guess I'm in the minority, I like them...

    IMG_20160911_194532 (resized).jpg

    #15 2 years ago
    Quoted from pinzrfun:

    Unless you leave your games on 12 hours a day, there's no reason for them. It's especially funny when people try to find led's that look exactly like the bulbs they are removing.

    When you have 15 or so machines on, LEDs make a huge difference in power draw.

    #16 2 years ago

    I always try to put warm white leds in pop bumpers. Otherwise, not so much.

    #17 2 years ago
    Quoted from jar155:

    When you have 15 or so machines on, LEDs make a huge difference in power draw.

    So with my 30 machines with incandescents, I can expect my electric bill to be substantially

    less than the $20-$25 a month I now pay if I go LED?

    Heck, if that's the case I may have to consider re-lighting my house too. As those are all incandescents as well.

    #18 2 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    So with my 30 machines with incandescents, I can expect my electric bill to be substantially
    less than the $20-$25 a month I now pay if I go LED?
    Heck, if that's the case I may have to consider re-lighting my house too. As those are all incandescents as well.

    You should go LED lighting in your house too, yes. Everybody should strive to save power.

    And that's YOUR situation. Most people pay much more for their power bill than you do.

    #19 2 years ago
    Quoted from jar155:

    Most people pay much more for their power bill than you do.

    And they blame it on their pinball machines. lol.

    Quoted from jar155:

    You should go LED lighting in your house too, yes. Everybody should strive to save power.

    That reverse psychology won't work on me.

    #20 2 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    And they blame it on their pinball machines. lol.

    It's a factor. So is incandescent lighting in the home. Leaving lights on, inefficient appliances, bad home insulation, and plenty other factors. But wherever you can help yourself out, why not do it? Using less power is not solely about saving money, it's part of being socially responsible as well. Even if you're on solar power, if you're connected to the grid you can always feed more back into it for others if you reduce your own usage.

    You put less strain on your pinball machine with LEDs than you do with incandescent bulbs. That's more of an issue on solid state machines than EMs, but whatever.

    All that said, I often don't put LEDs in the GI, just in the inserts unless it's the type of game where it really does look good in the GI or the game is in need of being brightened up.

    #21 2 years ago

    Just like I don't need to pay a gardener or maid to do work I can do to save money, I don't need to spend 5x as much for a light bulb to see negligible savings on my power bill. Just like I don't need special food to stay trim.

    And I just so happen to like my house lighting the way it is, thank you very much!

    #22 2 years ago
    Quoted from ryan1234:

    I like warm white or white LEDs in my EMs.
    Con- cost substantially more.

    You forgot that they look like ass.

    Quoted from Lermods:

    Guess I'm in the minority, I like them...

    I think I threw up in my mouth a little bit.

    #23 2 years ago
    Quoted from SirScott:

    I think I threw up in my mouth a little bit.

    You don't like thunder thighs underwater man in full living color?

    #24 2 years ago

    I use Nifty LEDs and like them. There is no way for me to determine what you think is good. You'll have to experiment and see what you like. Generally color matching the inserts and warm white for GI is fine for me but I'm not afraid to try different colors. The flexible ones are good for places where the bulb placement doesn't light up what you want it to very well.

    #25 2 years ago
    Quoted from pinzrfun:

    It's especially funny when people try to find led's that look exactly like the bulbs they are removing.

    If and when it happens. The guy that finally does this will be a rich man.

    #26 2 years ago

    LEDs behind the glass, always. Don't E-Z-Bake the artwork away.
    Warm white frosted only.

    #27 2 years ago

    Agr

    Quoted from cait001:LEDs behind the glass, always. Don't E-Z-Bake the artwork away.
    Warm white frosted only.

    Agreed, after 40 years or so, these backglasses deserve a break from the thermal cycle. Throw some warm whites in the backglass. The heat load difference (and power draw) is very noticeable...feel free to touch those LED's while they are on. Anything to preserve the artwork. The inserts, I could go either way...now as for in the visible regions under plastics...let's just say that's the only place in my collection I have incandescents.

    #28 2 years ago

    #47 incandescent bulbs run much cooler than the 44s that came in the machine and are about the same temp as some LEDs so heat is not a valid reason that you have to sacrifice quality lighting and put LEDs in there.

    #29 2 years ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    Guess I'm in the minority, I like them...

    I like the backglass with LEDs, I really can't see a reason to have them with incandescents... the artwork looks 100x better when you color-match or just use plain LEDs because they are so much brighter and light them much better. On the playfield I can still understand the appeal of traditional incandescent bulbs. Those whites are overpowering, eek!
    I'm going to experiment with colored pops soon since apparently nobody has ever given that a try on EMs?

    #30 2 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    And they blame it on their pinball machines. lol.

    Maybe I need to put more LEDs in my pins.

    This is what happens to my power bill when I run them all day for a competition....

    rd

    IMG_0020 (resized).PNG

    #31 2 years ago

    Warm white all the way, any day.
    To the people who don't like them, YOU ARE JUST TOO OLD!
    The benefits to the longevity of the machine out weigh the purist arguments/thoughts any day.

    #32 2 years ago
    Quoted from oldskool1969:

    To the people who don't like them, YOU ARE JUST TOO OLD!
    The benefits to the longevity of the machine out weigh the purist arguments/thoughts any day.

    Ha! Many of my machines are well older than me. Longevity. lol. Without people like me, some of these would never get played again.

    And it's not being a stubborn purist, as I will try anything, but if it looks like ASS, it has to go! Same with what others might consider popular machines that have passed thru here. If it looks like ASS, it has to go!

    #33 2 years ago

    But they look good too!
    Retro 2SMD warm white all the way. The machines you have or seen might have lasted, but I am positive the heat in older machines fxxked the back glasses, plastics and also the inserts from the incandescence.
    You don't need to install super bright LED's in our old machines.
    I am moving with the times and embracing technology. Except smart phones, they suck !

    #34 2 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    about the same temp as some LEDs so heat is not a valid reason

    You got a source for that? I've always found even 47's to be worryingly warm

    #35 2 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    Ha! Many of my machines are well older than me. Longevity. lol. Without people like me, some of these would never get played again.
    And it's not being a stubborn purist, as I will try anything, but if it looks like ASS, it has to go! Same with what others might consider popular machines that have passed thru here. If it looks like ASS, it has to go!

    Yeah, but who's ass?

    #36 2 years ago

    I would get a few and try them out, because what looks good to me, or someone else, may look bad to you. Warm White is a good place to start. on Comet's website, they give you some examples of what the bulbs color range should be. And like was said before, you aren't doing something that can't be reversed.

    #37 2 years ago

    I've never really been a fan of LEDs in pinball machines. Most especially EMs. I do work for folks that convert their games to LED and that's fine. It's not my cup of tea.

    I experiment with a handful every so often. I've still not found anything that doesn't end up looking either 'wrong' to my eyes or just plain hurts them after a time. I'm one of those people that cannot look at LED lit anything for very long. It's worse to me than fluorescent.

    Their use under inserts is about as far as I would consider going, and even then, you miss the charm of the visible filament.

    While some think it makes artwork 'pop', I think it washes it out and makes it look odd. It was made to have an incandescent bulb behind it. If the quality and color temperature of the light doesn't match, the art will look off.

    I do replace most games 44s with 47s, which substantially reduces current draw.

    Also, this has an added benefit of pointing out if my power supplies are getting weak or if I have a transformer or fuse holder issue. LEDs will sometimes mask this problem or problems with sockets (temporarily).

    This is only my opinion. Everyone's entitled to their own.

    #38 2 years ago

    For my Gottlieb New York I used 2-LED Warm White Frosted bulbs from Comet for the backglass and GI. These match the brightness and color temperature of 44/47 bulbs almost perfectly. The frosted lens gets rid of any nasty spotlighting effect and disperses the light nicely. If you want the same thing, just slightly brighter, try the Twin SMD Warm White Frosteds.

    For any lights that turn on/off during game play (inserts, bonus count lights, pop bumper lights), I leave 44s or 47s, otherwise you get the instant on/off LED effect which doesn't look right in an EM.

    I remember the early LEDs for pinball machines strobed really badly and looked like total shit. Thankfully, the technology has evolved to the point where this isn't as much of a problem now.

    -Doug

    #39 2 years ago
    Quoted from oldskool1969:

    I am positive the heat in older machines fxxked the back glasses, plastics and also the inserts from the incandescence.

    I'm not so sure about that. I would say a bigger factor was the time in unfit storage from the time it was on route till the time it got in collectors' hands. Excessive heat and cold and direct sunlight are bigger detriments to art, plastics, and inserts than incandescents ever could be.

    I do use LEDs though. I like the look of warm whites and the convenience of not having to change burnt bulbs. Colored LEDs and flickering inserts are a no no though.

    #40 2 years ago

    oh god not this again...

    --Jeff

    #41 2 years ago

    I tried LEDs in my 1975 Williams Triple Strike and it did seem odd. I sort of split the difference and bought new incandescent 44's and used some yellows, oranges and reds on the playfield to add color but keep it warm. I'm pretty happy with it, but I don't think I'm 100% satisfied yet. Haven't tried to mess with the insert lightning yet.

    I will say, I do like the look of lermods Atlantis machine above. I'm not too precious about these things (yet) and I do often get tired of the normal yellow glow of the incandescent bulbs on the playfield.

    #42 2 years ago
    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    The flexible ones are good for places where the bulb placement doesn't light up what you want it to very well.

    This is one area where I really like LED's. I used them to shine up at an angle against the carousel roto-targets (kind of like stage lights) on my KOD and to light up the ball return area on manual-load games (Nags, Heat Wave). Provides light where there really wasn't much before.

    Finished Playfield (resized).JPG

    #43 2 years ago
    Quoted from jrpinball:

    Yeah, but who's ass?

    th (resized).jpg

    #44 2 years ago

    LED's just don't fade in & out like incandescent bulbs. That & they are just too sterile looking for my taste.
    That's like my opinion man.

    #45 2 years ago

    Everybody can do what they like with their own machines, and in this case it's easily reversible.

    Nothing wrong with getting an EM loaded with $200 worth of LED bulbs, when it costs less than $10 to make it right again.

    #46 2 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    Everybody can do what they like with their own machines, and in this case it's easily reversible.
    Nothing wrong with getting an EM loaded with $200 worth of LED bulbs, when it costs less than $10 to make it right again.

    Cost me about $30 to do my atlantis. Took maybe 50 2835 bulbs. Two 25 packs for $16 each.

    #47 2 years ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    Cost me about $30 to do my atlantis. Took maybe 50 2835 bulbs. Two 25 packs for $16 each.

    Good for you! I recently acquired an older woodrail with about 100 high end LEDs in the backbox alone. Now I have a big bag of them.

    #48 2 years ago

    I don't worry anymore about damage caused by incandescents. Maybe if I put a game on location.

    I have a game that is 60 years old, a perfect original glass and bulbs must have been on for 1000's of hours.

    Anyway the soft glow of an incandescent is just nice and gone back to using 44's.......GE of course

    #49 2 years ago
    Quoted from Shapeshifter:

    I don't worry anymore about damage caused by incandescents. Maybe if I put a game on location.
    I have a game that is 60 years old, a perfect original glass and bulbs must have been on for 1000's of hours.
    Anyway the soft glow of an incandescent is just nice and gone back to using 44's.......GE of course

    Yeah, in may go back to 44's as well

    #50 2 years ago
    Quoted from jar155:

    When you have 15 or so machines on, LEDs make a huge difference in power draw.

    I have 18, but I rarely have them all on at the same time unless I'm having a party - if you have the correct number of games per circuit it's not an issue either way.

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