(Topic ID: 111043)

LED's and temp reduction

By calvin12

9 years ago


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  • Latest reply 9 years ago by calvin12
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    -1
    #1 9 years ago

    With how much everyone here likes to use blindingly bright leds in their games and use the "they give off no heat" reason. Here are some facts about that. The following pics are of an incandescent bulb, a cointaker 2-led cool white frosted bulb (received yesterday), cointaker 1-led cool white frosted (currently not offered, from my old stock), and an old ablaze LED from pinball life (old stock). The pic with 3 bulbs is the inc on top, the 2 led in the middle and the 1 led on the bottom. The ablaze was out of frame. These were all put into BoP and left in attract mode for 5 minutes prior to the photos being taken.
    As can be seen the incandescent is running about 217 degrees. around the bulb, not reading the filament. The filament was off the scale over 500 but a very tiny hot spot. The glass was giving a uniform reading around 220.
    The center bulb is the 2led cointaker bulb its reading 140, much cooler than incandescent which is good.
    The lower bulb is the 1led cointaker bulb, its reading only 111 degrees.

    there is almost a 30 degree increase in temp just from adding a second LED to the package.

    Lastly there is a pic of the ablaze bulb, its cool white and way dimmer than the other 2. These are what was in the game already, although I put this one in new from my stock to make the comparisons even. This bulb was produced probably 4 years ago. It is also not a super bright and is only reading 71 degrees the background temperature of the game is indistinguishable.

    Can people now at least stop saying that they use LEDs to avoid the heat so as not to damage the plastics? The LED's shown are not superbrights these run cooler than those and while cooler than incandescent as you make them brighter they lose that benefit quickly.

    This is not a call to action against LED's at all. I'm changing the ones in my BoP and Pinbot right now to the cointaker 1 and 2 LEDs.

    #2 9 years ago

    haven't seen people claim LEDs give off no heat. seems obvious to anyone that's used them that they give off some heat, but clearly less than incandescents. also far less UV radiation, which is what fades colors.

    how can you claim superbrights don't give off less heat than incandescents when you didn't even test any?

    #3 9 years ago

    The benefit; isn't the blub... it's the current draw which translates to heat savings in the backbox.

    http://www.pinballmedic.net/tech-tips/lamps.html
    0.25 amps vs 0.02 amps for a #44 vs LED lamp. Very important over the long run.

    LEDs are single wavelengths... Incandescents give off all forms of radiation.

    #4 9 years ago

    it is nice to see real-world numbers regarding LEDs versus incandescents. we could use more of this, although i'm not sure i understand why you disregarded the 500 degrees recorded at the filament. isn't the incandescent filament about as far away from the plastics as the LED is?

    #5 9 years ago

    I use LEDs to avoid the heat so as to not damage the plastics.

    #6 9 years ago
    Quoted from pezpunk:

    it is nice to see real-world numbers regarding LEDs versus incandescents. we could use more of this, although i'm not sure i understand why you disregarded the 500 degrees recorded at the filament. isn't the incandescent filament about as far away from the plastics as the LED is?

    +1

    And aren't the leds like, 100 degrees cooler, even when ignoring the 500 degree heat of the incandescent?

    #7 9 years ago

    I think to be scientific... one needs to measure the temperature of the PLASTICs; not the bulb.
    One way is to use thermocouples at points directly above the "bulb" on the top side of the plastics.

    Another would be to take the FLIR picture when the machine is off after a suitable stabilizing time frame. IE bake with glass on for 20minutes. Quickly remove the glass and turn off the machine. then measure with FLIR. Do this for the LED and the INC ... and see if there is a fundamental difference between the plastics in both cases. I think you'll find the plastic is much hotter with INC.

    #8 9 years ago

    My unscientific observations of pop caps is that direct contact with a incandescent results in a melted spot on the cap, direct contact with an led results in no melted spot. I'll stick with the leds.

    #9 9 years ago
    Quoted from pezpunk:

    it is nice to see real-world numbers regarding LEDs versus incandescents. we could use more of this, although i'm not sure i understand why you disregarded the 500 degrees recorded at the filament. isn't the incandescent filament about as far away from the plastics as the LED is?

    He doesn't mention whether the incandescent is a 44 or a 47. Big difference between the two in power consumption. I suspect there would be a big difference in temperature too.

    I've never had a 47 damage a plastic. I've seen lots of plastics damaged by 44's, but never by a 47.

    #10 9 years ago

    answering to several things:
    why disregard the filament. Simple its a single hot spot that is heating the glass of the bulb. The filaments heat is essentially reduced to the temp at the glass is it is spread over the area of glass. The glass is acting as a heat sink. That is the temp that is radiating to the machine.

    the incandescent are the hotter 44s not 47s, but all inc's run hot.

    Why not test supers, I'm not going to buy them since I don't use them. If you really don't think they are hotter than a non super, data isn't going to change your mind.

    Shooting the bulbs rather than the plastics. simple reason for that. The bulb is the heat source. A hotter bulb is going to put off more heat. If the bulb is putting off more heat it will make the plastics warmer. The temp or the plastics in this case is not the point. The lower heat source will result in lower temps everywhere in the machine.

    No one ever said they put out no heat, really do you read anything people put here?

    The heat radiating glass is clearly hotter than the LEDs, but simply going from a single led to a double raised the temp 30 degrees. there is only an 80 degree diff between the radiated heat of the incandescent and the double LED. Going brighter will just lessen that number. Go ahead and do it all you want, but at least when telling people why you are doing it at least have a clue about your claims.

    Look at the difference from the original ablaze LED its not even registering above the background temp. Originally LED's would have a massive heat advantage, now, not so much.

    #11 9 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    My unscientific observations of pop caps is that direct contact with a incandescent results in a melted spot on the cap, direct contact with an led results in no melted spot. I'll stick with the leds.

    I'm using them too, and I plan to stick with them. Been using them for years.

    #12 9 years ago
    Quoted from calvin12:

    the incandescent are the hotter 44s not 47s, but all inc's run hot.

    You gave details on all the LED's you used, but 'all inc's run hot'?

    I know you're trying to make a point here, but if you're going to get technical, you shouldn't generalize about incandescents. If one LED was 71 degrees, another was 140 and the 44 was 217, I'd like to know where a 47 fits in and I'm sure others would too.

    #13 9 years ago
    Quoted from calvin12:

    answering to several things:
    why disregard the filament. Simple its a single hot spot that is heating the glass of the bulb. The filaments heat is essentially reduced to the temp at the glass is it is spread over the area of glass. The glass is acting as a heat sink. That is the temp that is radiating to the machine.

    what about LEDs with plastic domes over them? or is that what you were using? and if so, were you measuring the dome on the LED or the LED itself? the domed (frosted) ones i have in my GI get warm but they certainly never come close to approaching 200 degrees.

    Quoted from calvin12:

    If you really don't think they are hotter than a non super, data isn't going to change your mind.

    well, there's no reason to be hostile or to make assumptions ... i don't know much about SMDs versus other LEDs. i for one would be interested to see data on superbright temps. however, the peak temperature isn't the whole story, it's merely a variable in the equation (as i'll explain below)

    Quoted from calvin12:

    Shooting the bulbs rather than the plastics. simple reason for that. The bulb is the heat source. A hotter bulb is going to put off more heat. If the bulb is putting off more heat it will make the plastics warmer. The temp or the plastics in this case is not the point. The lower heat source will result in lower temps everywhere in the machine.

    you're assuming thermal radiation is solely a function of the temperature of the source, but that's not how it works. the amount of heat transferred from one surface to another (say a bulb to a plastic) is also dependent on the distance and surface area of the heat source (as well as the target surface's ability to radiate heat away). think of a 500 degree oven heating coil, and a 500 degree incandescent pinball bulb. one is going to heat objects up a whole lot more than the other, even though they're the same temperature. obviously that's an extreme example but the point is measuring the peak temperature of the heat source doesn't tell you whether or not it will heat up plastics near it. isn't the surface area of an SMD tiny? wouldn't it therefore generate only a fraction of the total thermal energy of a big ol' incandescent bulb, even if its peak temperature is the same? i can only hypothesize, but if we really want to answer the question of whether LEDs keep plastics cooler than incandescents, we need to measure the temperature of the plastics in question, not the max temp of the source.

    Quoted from calvin12:

    The heat radiating glass is clearly hotter than the LEDs, but simply going from a single led to a double raised the temp 30 degrees. there is only an 80 degree diff between the radiated heat of the incandescent and the double LED. Going brighter will just lessen that number. Go ahead and do it all you want, but at least when telling people why you are doing it at least have a clue about your claims.
    Look at the difference from the original ablaze LED its not even registering above the background temp. Originally LED's would have a massive heat advantage, now, not so much.

    it seems like you want to claim modern superbright LEDs are just as harmful to plastics as incandescents, but you haven't really proven that yet, since you don't have any superbrights, and aren't measuring the temps of the plastics themselves. i am definitely interested in the answer to this question, though - i haven't seen proof either way.

    #14 9 years ago

    you can see exactly here the temps were recorded. Thats why there are pictures. These are all domed frosted bulbs. The domes, just like the glass, are acting as radiators. its absorbing the heat from the LED source then it is warming. This is why I let it run before taking the images. Just like I didn't give the filament temp I have the given the surface temp that is actually radiating the heat out.

    At no point did I say supers are as damaging. There are many different types of damage. The only statement was that supers will run even hotter, negating much of the lower heat benefit.

    Measuring the plastic is not relevant. A hotter heat source will raise the temp of what is around it. I 70 degree heat source at the same distance from an item will heat it less than a 150 degree source will. As Pezpunk stated it's source temp and distance. The distance is the essentially the same from the LED to the plastic as the inc to the plastic.

    All of the LEDs (for lighting, not counting LEDs such as on the boards, AFM mothership etc) in pins are SMD's they are just in different housings.

    #15 9 years ago
    Quoted from calvin12:

    you can see exactly here the temps were recorded. Thats why there are pictures. These are all domed frosted bulbs. The domes, just like the glass, are acting as radiators. its absorbing the heat from the LED source then it is warming. This is why I let it run before taking the images. Just like I didn't give the filament temp I have the given the surface temp that is actually radiating the heat out.
    At no point did I say supers are as damaging. There are many different types of damage. The only statement was that supers will run even hotter, negating much of the lower heat benefit.
    Measuring the plastic is not relevant. A hotter heat source will raise the temp of what is around it. I 70 degree heat source at the same distance from an item will heat it less than a 150 degree source will. As Pezpunk stated it's source temp and distance.

    surface area of the heat source is also a variable in calculating the amount of thermal radiation from one object to another. in the case of SMDs, the surface area is tiny. compared to an incandescent, they ought to radiate less thermal energy at the same temperature. comparing the temperatures of the sources is like measuring the RPM of two cars to determine which one is faster.

    i just think it'd be most useful to measure the temp of the plastics - cut to the chase and measure the end result with different bulb types. isn't the temperature of the plastic what we care about here?

    #16 9 years ago

    Incandescent bulbs give off infra red heat much more than standard LEDs used in pinball machines. The IR heat is a factor that cannot be measured on the light source itself - it needs to be measured on the plastics adjacent to the light source.

    From my simplistic point of view, I can hold a pinball LED in my hand after its been on all day. Especially a domed LED. If I pull an incandescent bulb and hold it after being on a while, I get burned. Conclusion: LEDs are lower temp than bulbs.

    But the biggest savings is in reduced current loading on the power driver circuits of the old pinball machine. Anything that can reduce current load will help preserve the aging pcbs, headers, and IDCs.

    #17 9 years ago

    An uncovered smd will give more heat. A domed led is just and smd with a dome over it. The dome absorbed the heat then reradiates it. The bare smd does not have that reduction.

    #18 9 years ago
    Quoted from calico1997:

    Incandescent bulbs give off infra red heat much more than standard LEDs used in pinball machines. The IR heat is a factor that cannot be measured on the light source itself - it needs to be measured on the plastics adjacent to the light source.
    From my simplistic point of view, I can hold a pinball LED in my hand after its been on all day. Especially a domed LED. If I pull an incandescent bulb and hold it after being on a while, I get burned. Conclusion: LEDs are lower temp than bulbs.
    But the biggest savings is in reduced current loading on the power driver circuits of the old pinball machine. Anything that can reduce current load will help preserve the aging pcbs, headers, and IDCs.

    The IR is measurable, the pics are flir. This discussion has nothing to do with reduced current loads on board. As stated this is addressing nothing but the led don't produce heat argument. They do. It is less than incandescent, but as you make brighter leds that difference diminishes.

    #19 9 years ago

    40 cfm of fan properly placed to draw in air from the base cabinet and exhaust through the head does more to cool the inside of the machine than going to LEDs. On the other hand if your gameroom gets hot and/or your air conditioning can't cut it, then LEDs can really make a difference in heat output when installed in multiple machines.

    #20 9 years ago
    Quoted from calvin12:

    As stated this is addressing nothing but the led don't produce heat argument. They do.

    i still don't recall people saying LEDs produce no heat... i think that's a bit of a straw man.

    #21 9 years ago

    This discussion seems all squirly.
    I don't see any "data" in the OPs post. I see FUD; but no scientific method.

    -2
    #23 9 years ago
    Quoted from Zitt:

    This discussion seems all squirly.
    I don't see any "data" in the OPs post. I see FUD; but no scientific method.

    Then you are blind. People claim no heat is generated with leds. Hypothesis, heat is generated by leds, null hypothesis, heat is not generated. Test running leds for temp, find elevated temp. Null hypothesis confirmed, hypothesis invalid.

    #26 9 years ago

    Well - then people don't understand the basics of electricity. Everything generates heat - even current thru a wire.
    Regardless; fine - you've proven they do generate heat.
    You haven't disproven they do less damage to plastics.

    You made some pretty pictures - I'll give you that. I'm sure they added some value.

    #27 9 years ago

    LEDs..
    More colourful
    Generate no less heat
    Last longer
    Brighter

    Excellent, I will still use them.

    #28 9 years ago

    Geez...tough crowd.

    #29 9 years ago
    Quoted from John_I:

    40 cfm of fan properly placed to draw in air from the base cabinet and exhaust through the head does more to cool the inside of the machine than going to LEDs. On the other hand if your gameroom gets hot and/or your air conditioning can't cut it, then LEDs can really make a difference in heat output when installed in multiple machines.

    I have built several PCs and have often wondered about this. It seems pretty simple. My BW games get really hot. Where do you plug in your fans? Do you have a picture?

    Quoted from solarvalue:

    Geez...tough crowd.

    Yup! I think it was in interesting post with good intentions.

    #30 9 years ago

    I applaud your data and testing, it's always nice to see testing done and results.

    It seems as though this is all to attempt to prove a very trivial point - zero heat from an LED bulb. Sure there is "some" heat, but it's nothing like incandescent bulbs for all intents and purposes. There are some LEDs (loosely speaking) such as ultras that burn insanely hot, to the point of where I was afraid because of the heat generated to use them (very sparingly) in the places I have.

    There are some LEDs that appear to give off no heat, such as the concaves, but all in all, people state "no heat" insinuating for all intents and purposes there is no heat issues with LEDs, which I think most would unanimously agree with, as opposed to the predecessors.

    #31 9 years ago

    Less pf heat based on multiple LEDs installed ( who puts in just one?) and .25 a draw from LEDs compared to .9 or more from bulb, translates to severely decreased backbox temps. I did a reading on my IJ. Ambient temp of 79 degrees F, humidity at 30%. With Bulbs installed, board area was at 157 degrees. Hot! After running in attract mode for 1/2 hour.

    With LEDs, b&b area temp was 110-111.

    #32 9 years ago
    Quoted from Nevus:

    I have built several PCs and have often wondered about this. It seems pretty simple. My BW games get really hot. Where do you plug in your fans? Do you have a picture?

    Back when I had a bunch of WPC games I used to build boxes with fans. I measured the air temp in my TZ away from the bulbs and boards and it was 30-40 degrees lower in the backbox. The key is to draw the air in from the cabinet and out through the backbox to supplement the natural convection. The box must span all of the holes in the backbox or it will draw air in one hole and right out another rather than drawing it through the whole machine. I used to extremely quiet fans with around 20-30 CFM each. Any more is not needed. Before anyone asks, I've had fans in an AFM for over 11 years now and there is no excessive buildup of dust.

    pinball fan install 2003 011.jpgpinball fan install 2003 011.jpg

    #33 9 years ago
    Quoted from John_I:

    Before anyone asks, I've had fans in an AFM for over 11 years now and there is no excessive buildup of dust.

    but i just gotta ask. are you an avid LED user?

    #34 9 years ago

    Good idea. Where did you plug them in to the boards?

    -1
    #35 9 years ago
    Quoted from Atomicboy:

    I applaud your data and testing, it's always nice to see testing done and results.
    It seems as though this is all to attempt to prove a very trivial point - zero heat from an LED bulb. Sure there is "some" heat, but it's nothing like incandescent bulbs for all intents and purposes. There are some LEDs (loosely speaking) such as ultras that burn insanely hot, to the point of where I was afraid because of the heat generated to use them (very sparingly) in the places I have.
    There are some LEDs that appear to give off no heat, such as the concaves, but all in all, people state "no heat" insinuating for all intents and purposes there is no heat issues with LEDs, which I think most would unanimously agree with, as opposed to the predecessors.

    there are 3 different leds in the pics. an old style one that is not distinguishable from the background, a single led emitter, that is about 40 degree above the background, and a 2 led version that is about 70 degrees above the background temp. These are all below that of the incandescent. but as the brightness goes up the specific benefit of heat reduction that people love to claim as a main reason to use them diminishes quickly. That is the one and only point. As stated, I use them also. I took these pics while swapping in the 2 led version into BoP. There are other benefits of the LED, mainly the lower current, that's valid. But people need to stop assuming they are generating that much less heat, especially when they are using brighter and brighter bulbs.

    The shape of the lens, concave in your example, will not make the LED produce led heat. The heat is not generated by the lens.

    Even you stated you use the supers sparingly due to the heat issues, thats the whole point.

    #36 9 years ago
    Quoted from underlord:

    Less pf heat based on multiple LEDs installed ( who puts in just one?) and .25 a draw from LEDs compared to .9 or more from bulb, translates to severely decreased backbox temps. I did a reading on my IJ. Ambient temp of 79 degrees F, humidity at 30%. With Bulbs installed, board area was at 157 degrees. Hot! After running in attract mode for 1/2 hour.
    With LEDs, b&b area temp was 110-111.

    I had a thread a while back when I swapped out the TZ clock to an ingo board. The temp drop was amazing on the clock. Those are also much smaller led's. Ive put a meter on my games and the drop from nearly 200 watts to 70-90 in attract mode is great. They have many benefits but the temp benefit is very dependent on the LEDs used.

    #37 9 years ago
    Quoted from CNKay:

    but i just gotta ask. are you an avid LED user?

    No, but back when I was making these there were no LEDs available like there are today. Even still I do not LED WPC machines. MY WH2O and IJ have less than 10 LEDs each in strategic spots that needed them.

    Quoted from Nevus:

    Good idea. Where did you plug them in to the boards?

    Gator clip onto ground and the 12volt test point.

    #38 9 years ago

    Removing 44 & 555 bulbs with game on = burnt fingers,
    Removing 44 & 555 l.e.d bulbs with game on = no burnt fingers

    #39 9 years ago

    Lower heat.
    Lower power consumption.
    Lower UV output.

    We can argue about aesthetics but thems there are just the facts.

    -1
    #40 9 years ago
    Quoted from Pinfactory2000:

    Lower heat.
    Lower power consumption.
    Lower UV output.
    We can argue about aesthetics but thems there are just the facts.

    1 maybe, might depend on bulbs.
    2 and 3 definitely

    #41 9 years ago

    Duck season!

    #42 9 years ago
    Quoted from calvin12:

    1 maybe, might depend on bulbs.

    LEDs will always 100.00% of the time produce less heat than a bulb with equal brightness. Not even close in fact; usually by a factor of 5 or more.

    #43 9 years ago
    Quoted from John_I:

    LEDs will always 100.00% of the time produce less heat than a bulb with equal brightness. Not even close in fact; usually by a factor of 5 or more.

    interesting fact but the FLIR does not lie. 1led 111 degrees. 2 leds 140 degrees, incandescent bulb radiating 222 degrees. Not even close to 5x the amount. You can't argue against the facts. The filament is hotter than 220 as stated, but the glass which is absorbing that heat and re-radiating it is 220.
    The other major problem with your thought is the LEDs are way brighter than the incandescent they are replacing. I'm not measuring things of equal output. I'm measuring "in use" as they were made to be used. The ablaze led is similiar in output to teh incandescent, it is not noticibly warmer than the background. The *much brighter* newer leds are much hotter and can get close to what is coming off an incandescent. That is a fact.

    #44 9 years ago
    Quoted from calvin12:

    I had a thread a while back when I swapped out the TZ clock to an ingo board. The temp drop was amazing on the clock. Those are also much smaller led's. Ive put a meter on my games and the drop from nearly 200 watts to 70-90 in attract mode is great. They have many benefits but the temp benefit is very dependent on the LEDs used.

    Size of temp benefit based on led size. But always a benefit WITH LEDs as opposed to bulbs. Yes, size of led matters, but is a minor issue compared to 44/47/555 heat amperage output.

    #45 9 years ago
    Quoted from calvin12:

    interesting fact but the FLIR does not lie. 1led 111 degrees. 2 leds 140 degrees, incandescent bulb radiating 222 degrees. Not even close to 5x the amount. You can't argue against the facts.

    Temperature is not the only factor in heat output. Surface area and heat conductivity of the material are also important. So what I am saying is the bulb could very easily be twice the temperature of an LED, but throw off 5 times more heat into the machine. You also need to make sure you are comparing a bulb that is putting out the same amount of light as the LED. Most LEDs are much brighter than a 555 or 44.

    #46 9 years ago
    Quoted from calvin12:

    Even you stated you use the supers sparingly due to the heat issues, thats the whole point.

    No, I said ultras, they burn very hot. Supers give off a bit of heat, but I've never felt one that was "hot" as I do with incandescent.

    #47 9 years ago
    Quoted from John_I:

    Temperature is not the only factor in heat output. Surface area and heat conductivity of the material are also important. So what I am saying is the bulb could very easily be twice the temperature of an LED, but throw off 5 times more heat into the machine. You also need to make sure you are comparing a bulb that is putting out the same amount of light as the LED. Most LEDs are much brighter than a 555 or 44.

    No I don't need an inc as bright as an led. People go from inc to led. This is a real world comparison of those temps. That is the point. These are some of the dimmest basic leds available. They run cooler than inc, but as they get brighter, as people here use, they get hotter and the heat benefit, that is the only thing being referred to, diminishes.That is a fact, whether you want to admit it out not.
    All of the heat output of the bulbs will go into the machine as they are located on the machine. Composition of material only affects the speed of the heat transfer. There will still be transfer, the heat generated does not magically disappear

    #48 9 years ago
    Quoted from Atomicboy:

    No, I said ultras, they burn very hot. Supers give off a bit of heat, but I've never felt one that was "hot" as I do with incandescent.

    It was never stated to be as hot, just that the heat reduction benefits diminish as the brightness and led count rises.

    #49 9 years ago
    Quoted from calvin12:

    As can be seen the incandescent is running about 217 degrees. around the bulb, not reading the filament. The filament was off the scale over 500 but a very tiny hot spot. The glass was giving a uniform reading around 220.
    The center bulb is the 2led cointaker bulb its reading 140, much cooler than incandescent which is good.
    The lower bulb is the 1led cointaker bulb, its reading only 111 degrees.

    The only apples to apples comparison is to center the temp sensor center on the filament/diode in all cases, seems from the pics you aren't always doing this. Also, I'm confused at the images... the pics list inc.jpg as attachment #2 but pic #2 is rendered with 75.6 degrees, maybe best to put the bulb text into the image as the forum is rendering them out of order from its listing.

    #50 9 years ago

    the temperature of the bulb is a red herring, since the transfer of thermal radiation from one surface to another is dependent on the surface area of the source in question. a large source radiates more heat than a smaller one even if they are the same temp. ive tried to explain that several times. it's why the only meaningful temp measurement would be of the plastics in question, not the bulbs.

    i agree with the general premise that LEDs do give off heat, but i think it's probably significantly less than Incandescents, and reduced heat is probably a valid benefit of LEDs.

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