most leds can be done from under the playfield on demo man and any wpc. The GI just screw into the bottom of the playfield. 1 screw and they are out and easy to change. Make sure game is turned off.

Just go comet as they are the cheapest. Just get normal ones, don't get sucked into the "3-way bj dvda bulbs" etc.
You can do it 2 ways,
Order bulk amounts of white bulbs and do it that way, or color match your inserts.
I'm not always big on LEDs for the GI, so just try some in inserts first and see how you like it.

If you just want to LED and not color bomb too much, I'd suggest cool white for GI and a non ghosting for inserts color matched. Most of back box was cool whites as well if I recall. A friend has my old DM that isn't too over the top. I used CT for LED's but lots of options.

Some of mine from a few years ago: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/demo-man-project-not-a-restoration-but-bringing-it-back-to-life/page/2

All good advice.

I didn't go to LED colledge like some other people on Pinside, but they seem the same to me. I have ordered plenty from CT and they are very nice people, great product. Comet is great people (well old owner was at least) and great product. Looking at them, I might say CT looks more quality, but they are twice as expensive and once you put them in they all seem the same.

Call Melissa , I have used Cointaker LEDs in about 70 pins.

The same.

Do a search for Pics or Videos, and youll see lots of examples of different techniques.

Just stay Frosted!

Oh, Comet Twin 2835 Frosted White...Color Match inserts...Maybe a few extra Blue, and ICE BLUE to play with.
Ice Blue looks amazing in a few GI Spots!

Universal Kits too.

No LEDs in the backbox unless you want some serious playfield glass glare. Goes for any game. Ain't worth having a super bright, shiny translite if it means you can lose track of the ball during gameplay.

This is what I'm saying to avoid. Just get the Frosted domes...best in the most applications. You don't need 2 leds in 1 bulb; just overkill and rasies the price.

This is a little overkill but a decent point anyway. You can use LEDs in backbox and only fill 1/2-2/3 of the sockets. True if you fill all the sockets up gonna be too bright

How so?

They are $.69-$.79 At Cointaker and the 1 SMD are $.74-$.89
At Comet They are $.59- $.69 either brightness.

Do yourself a favor and get some of these for the inserts serviced by the large PCB under the main part of the playfield:

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smdflex.htm

Several of these inserts are placed in a way that regular bulb LEDs will not do a great job lighting them up -- even worse than incandescent bulbs.

Cointaker probably has something similar.

Dont worry about non ghosting for the inserts. You can just buy a patched non ghosting rom for cheap and they work perfect. I have non ghosting patched roms in all my 90s dmds.

I did all my playfeild GI in cool white except like 4 or 5 in blue at the very back behind or under back plastics.

You can only see some of the blue leds because of my mirror blades.

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because the ones im telling him to buy @ comet are cheaper, and provide ample light. thus more expensive and not needed.

IMO.

This was mine. Cointaker Cool While Frosted in all GI including backbox (Did GI mod behind the windows in the back. Blue Frosted) Inserts were Cointaker frosted as well. Red under Red. White under White, Yellow and Orange. Green under Green.

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What would I know....????

Is it a bit naughty to ask where one "acquires" the non ghosting ROM software, or even the ROM's already burnt with the non ghosting fix? I have a JD, TAF and soon a TZ with ghosting issues and cant seem to find the "info" I require!

Thanks

Anybody that sells burnt roms should be able to get you the non ghosting version.

Here you go. I used the WPC / WPC95 Lamp Matrix Driver Rom patcher software a few weeks ago to burn a non-ghosting ROM for World Cup Soccer.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y2opvdvhp4r44l8/wpclp_1.4.zip?dl=0

dupe post

Yep i use ngp in all my roms with games made before 1995. Makes a world of difference

Art is talking about these:
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm

They're 69 cents in quantity 1, cheaper if you buy a 25 or 100 pack.

Edit:

Oh, I think I just realized that TheLaw is talking about these:
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/8mm-led.htm

If so, I find them disappointing in most cases, though I guess my opinion differs since I went to LED college.

For things like dimming backboxes to reduce glare, there are options that I won't go into since it's obvious the OP wants to keep it simple.

I led all my back boxes and never have a issue with glare. U just cant use super brights. Led in backbox really help with heat and keeping these old boards much cooler and much less strain on the driver board.

Indeed, I just picked up Judge Dredd a couple weeks ago, that had a "kit" or modified one.
It had 5 SMD flashers...suck in a backbox, bunches of no lens LEDs creating quarter size spots, and Flex heads everywhere!
Looked OK, if one doesnt know better, but kinda bad, IMO.

I find many people just start putting color to match the art in front in a socket, and colored LED light bleeds, because of the wrong bulb into other art.

I tend to suggest doing the whole back box, first, in the shade of white that is best for the pallet, and then slowly pull a bulb here or there and add color. More often then not, to do a killer job, the colored bulbs are a lower brightness, so the light doesnt bleed all over the other art. Often times, I never need any color in the back box, other than a couple bulbs at most.

This Dredd, has color everywhere, and visually, it hurts me!!!

Maybe because I'm 6'4" and I see the glare? I normally don't even fully populate the backbox with bulbs. Just enough to light it up and keep the PF free of glare. I'm not concerned with heat because I only turn my pins on when I play them, they're not on all day long like on route.

You also use the invisible glass on your machines, so maybe that's why you don't notice any glare?

Yup, when I got my Dredd it was fully LED colorbombed in the backglass. Blue LEDs behind every blue artwork, purples and reds everywhere. Just need white to properly display the artwork.

Absolutely! Your height and stance, would change the reflection.

People over 6 feet, see it differently.

I'm toooooooo tall for pinball!

Jd backglass is beautiful if done correctly with color leds imo and same with ft and really makes it pop and almost 3d like compared to all one color 20150320_164853 (resized).jpg20150131_090043 (resized).jpg

friends only let friends use COMET

I prefer warm frosted 2SMD. They are great bang for the buck, look good in ALL areas, are very cost effective and can buy in bulk packs of 100.

A little color used very sparingly under ramps and at the top half of the pf is acceptable to me. The lower half needs to always remain white as that is where you flip and should be able to see the ball.

Well exactly. You and Art are/were in the business of selling LEDs + accessories, I assume you have a much keener eye than the average person and notice things other people wouldn't.

Just bustin your chops....all good....nothing meant personally at all etc.....

i never take offense. This towny has nothing but love for you college guys

Thanks, just letting my bad side get out, as I have 1 day left to work and my contract is done....!!
(Ill still help out though)

Does not matter how many of these LED threads I read, I always learn something.
Bought a comet LED generic kit last Christmas. Just finished SS, Totan, and STTNG. I bought a few extras along the way.
It does take some trial and error. I love the LED look. Just not SKITTLED

I thoroughly love messing with the lights! Boxes now everywhere!

When I answered or posted as an owner, I had to make things "business" and "easy".

I can share now that I mix all types and brightness in some games....It takes forever...but looks amazing, IMO.

At shows, one can see the difference between a good job, a bad one, a kit, and then a creative result.
I find this also affects game play too.

Many ways to be right, and easy, I think to know when its wrong.

Heres a Star Wars translite, done by committee. with 8 or 9 different bulbs....one doesnt find this in kits, just trial and error.

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Thanks PoMC, all sorted!

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Great for playfield inserts and really bright 4 SMD @ .69 each from Comet Pinball.

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/4smd3528.htm

Check out the lighting difference with and without spotlights on the lower sling bumpers. I plan on using 2 spotlights above each bumper to light up the center of the play with 6 SMD UV LED and Light Blue LED on each side.

Here's one spotlight installed on each bumper. 1 purple LED & 1 light blue LED

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Here's NO spotlights installed.

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SiDe by SiDe lighting difference with and without spotlights

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