Led Zeppelin (LE)
Stern, 2020
Led Zeppelin (Premium)
Stern, 2020
Led Zeppelin (Pro)
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just posting to say hello as I just joined the most uncelebrated and underrated pinball machine of the last few years.
My friends have it and I enjoyed playing it so much that I could not pass up a good deal I just found and got one so I am very much looking forward to it!
Quoted from kool1:Congrats!!
I enjoy mine. So many people got down on it but it's a fun game.
Did you buy the premium that was for sale in BC?
Yeah that is the one!
Quoted from notbodied:I'm sure someone will tell me I shouldn't do this, but its worked great so far. I did not contact stern and ask about what their fix was so I didn't want to tie into the existing node (1?) board power. I did unplug node board 1 and plugged the power into the expression node board and the lights worked perfectly. I spent a decent amount of time tracing wires and looking at unhelpful diagrams in the game manual. I decided the best option was the unused, switched, 48v power and ground wires going to the playfield.
I de-pinned a grey and a black wire from the connector and cut the wires so i could repair the harness if there was ever a need (selling the game, ect). I used spade terminals for the wire to wire connections, and some small terminals I had from some weather pack connectors for the connections I had to make at the node board. Heat shrunk all the exposed terminals and saved the little pieces of black and grey wire in case I ever want to un-do what I did.
To me it was worth cutting into the part of the harness that wont be used, I can understand others not wanting to do the same. There was just no way i wasnt going to get those damn lights working!
edit: If you could get a 2 pin Molex (or whatever the playfield power connector is) you may be able to avoid cutting the cabinet harness at all? I used what I had, I wasn't waiting any longer ha.
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I would have perhaps repined the cables with the correct molex connectors, so it does not look like a it is has been permanently modded, no offence, I would not buy a game with this type of work on, as it leads me to believe it has been hacked elsewhere yet to be found, ymmv. I see it as the owner did not spend $ on the right tools for the job and there are more 'mods' somewhere else.
That is just my personal take. no offence
Using the correct molex is really the only way I would be making this sort of mod in a way that is fully reversible without any visible nor permanent mod if it is ever corrected.
Quoted from notbodied:No offense taken! I have faith in my soldering skills. I know pin-fit is tight and there is very little chance of having an issue with it. Like I said the two wires I cut plug into an empty hole in the connector. They can be re-soldered and put back into said connector. I've decided these games probably have hundreds of solder joints, I'm not going to freak about two more (that are not even carrying current). I made sure it's unpluggable and the playfield is still easily removable, but it definitely voided the harness warranty haha. Either way I totally understand the concern and I did think about how it would effect value.
No concerns about your skills but more about the logic behind not using the right part.
Get yourself a set of cheap crimpers and some molex (I have a box full that I always use). It is really nice to have the pins, headers and connectors ready at hand. You can make an OEM connection in less time that it took you do all the work you posted above.
Trust me. 
Quoted from JOESCHALL:Thanks also to notbodied for the pics and explanation. My skills are limited, so I will wait for the fix from Stern. I wrote again to the tech support person at Stern who had responded to my initial request and he forwarded it to the parts department, and I heard from the parts department yesterday that the parts would be sent to me ASAP, so we'll see. The tech support person also sent me a PDF called "Expression lights TEE Power Adaptor Kit Game Accessory, Installation Instructions." If that's of any use of you, howitzer11, and you don't already have that PDF, let me know and I'll send it to you. It does clear some things up related to the hardware and hookup, assuming one waits for and uses the Stern fix.
well, to put things in perspective, for my 40th birthday I bought AIQ, I had issues and made a call to service, they said they would send me parts. I sold the game 2 months after... I am 41 and a half now, I just got the parts last week. lol true story.
YMMV
Quoted from BrandonLaw:This piece of shit.
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Anyone have a legit fix for this yet? Honestly, I don't mind leaving it off as I could use a multi-ball break, but what about hitting it lightly with some dykes to imprint some slots and tossing a tiny E-Clip on it? Anyone try this?
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Take the whole assy off and install it outside the game, bend it as suggested earlier and with the help of a vice press the tip to make that dimple on it
Quoted from BrianJ1337:I’d much rather have a gate issue than the electrical issues I have. Cannot figure out this translite flickering and it’s driving me nuts
I would like to nerd this out with you if you want. The lEDS are controlled by the node board so this is most likely a capacitor issue, have you looked at the schematics? It will show you what is the cap that controls power to these LEDS on the node board.
I can spend some time looking at the schematics if you find the correct one (they are all on Stern's site).
I have experience micro soldering and this might be an easy easy fix.
First thing though, just to cover the basic and make sure this is not a software issue. Have you flashed your SD card with the latest code, when I say flash I am not referring to an incremental update but actually using the SD card image and flash the entire code at once. If you have not done this do it first, then we can look at the electrical issue.
My LZ is arriving soon!
Another questions: has anybody looked at modifying the code with pinball browser to add... ehemmmm.... Stairways to heaven? I would be interested in doing this and to change out some of the songs when if/possible. I understand this is more challenging that in older DMD games, specially dye to the integration on the LCD and backboard BUT HEY, this is pinball and ANYTHJING is possible.
Quoted from BrianJ1337:So far tech support has had me replace the entire main board, power supply and one other board and no luck and worst part is I broke one of the clips on the main board, doesn't effect anything but still sucks.. The last contact I had with them was to go through every single connection and check.
It's tied to my right side flipper as the translite flickers only on a full press of the right flipper. I have tried other outlets etc but is it possible I have dirty electricity or something and it's not related to the actual connections.? It's definitely got me stumped. Game plays fine but watching that translite flicker when playing just gives me a twitch in my eye.
mmmh...
Have you removed the right flipper assy to make sure the metal plate is not touching any of the GI underneath it?
I do not have LZ yet but I have had many Sterns and some of these often have GI stapled under the Pf by the out lanes, these often are exactly underneath the flipper assy.
If you are telling me that it is flickering under a flipper activation it sounds like something it is shorting when this circuit is activated. It could be very well be anywhere on your hose really but I would start by looking underneath the assy to make sure there is fish paper there blocking the GI from the assy or it might be shorting in a weird way.
See if you get continuity in between the flipper assy and the grounding braid (you should not I believe), if you do, then your GI is shorting the flipper assy.
I am thinking out loud really, and what I am saying might be incorrect so feel free to roll your eyes if these recommendations are stupid.
IF everything is good at the assy, then by following the logic of the flickering being caused on flipper activation I would perhaps inspect the wiring from the flipper to the node board and isolating it to see if this solves the issue.
I think that if you isolate the wiring, removing it completely from the hose it will reveal if there is a short somewhere, maybe there is a exposed insulation somewhere and the high voltage of the flipper is leeching into another.
Last I would try to run a new cable isolating the flippers, and see if perhaps this is caused by a lose connection somewhere, creating more resistance/drawing more power? Have you measure power at the flipper when activated and see what voltage you get and compare it to the other side.
If you have replaced the CPU and Power and everything is grounded properly (have you checked grounding?) then the issue is probably wiring, in my opinion, the culprit is usually the most obvious thing.
Keep me updated I love this stuff.
Quoted from Jediturtle:Keep in mind with this particular game, the issue with changing songs goes beyond LCD integration and the back panel art. The modes themselves are integral to the songs, with lit shots, combos, etc changing with the music and parts of the song. For example, most guitar solos light the center ramp for looping combos during the solo. Lit shots change for refrains vs choruses, etc. It is some very creative and unique theme integration. You will lose that if you replace songs. Yes, it can be done, but you break that perfect integration. Same with the expression lights. These aren't just lights that randomly pulse with the beat like you can make a cheap set of Christmas lights do. They are programmed individually to the songs and work great with the music. Again, if you change the songs, this will no longer integrate. Having Stairway to Heaven playing while the expression lights go crazy because they were programmed for say Immigrant Song is going to look very strange.
Can it be done...sure. Should it be done? Ehh...it's your game...do what makes you happy. But it will destroy some VERY cool theme integration that this pin does not get enough credit for. If you do not care about the light show and rules matching the music, then no worries.
Ah! Did not realize this.
You are correct on all and then it does sound like my idea was a terrible one.
Quoted from BrandonLaw:My machine was new, and it immediately broke. Stern sent me at least 6 more. They know I assume you can get a better polymer, but I haven't needed to revert to this just yet with a bit of maintenance.
just got my LZ today, really pumped about flipping it.
What is it that I need to look out for? the machine is not new, but only 600 plays.
Quoted from Trogdor:6 months ago, they sent me two or three. I guess inflation . I’ll try the rotation.
The band behind the ZEP targets. It goes around 3 or 4 pegs and will break every few months. I tried a flipper rubber- thought it might be the pop bumper. Seems it broke by the right post..
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oh I see what you mean. I have seen guys in the Alien thread fixing a similar issue by adding a post sleeve to the post, They cut out the sleeve in half to allow space for the band to fit normally and by having the sleeve protecting the band, it no longer breaks.
I am settinng mine up and I will try to add this before I start playing it but yes, if it is a design flaw like this, it can easily be fixed with the mod stated above.
My game has 600 plays and the band is like new. Is it expected to fail after certain amount of plays?
Can you post a pic of the band after it fails? I suspect it is not the impact of the ball but the actual drop down targets that are causing the issue.
The same happens to Stranger Things, the sleeves behind the drop down targets where the screen in get chewed up by the pointy back of the drop down target.
It could also be ball impact, but it really depends. If someone shows me what the band looks like after failing I might be able to tell.
Quoted from BrandonLaw:If you look near the ramp, the rubber is the only thing that takes the hit so it snaps there. Doesn't take long if you are an 'almost got it' player like myself I see they used a flipper rubber?? Not a bad idea as I assume they were out of a rubber on-site and needed a quick fix, or they wanted to try a different material. Either way it snapped. Just needs to be rotated every so often. 600 plays? You sure? I see that ramp back there...BUT...this machine gets super beat super fast. Keep an eye on the balls...use Ninjas...change every 2-300 plays and there's less worry. Use at least Novus 1 if not a carnauba wax. Just care for the dang thing and it'll treat you well. I'm beating a dead horse tho...but this is the MOST maintained machine I've ever had to be right.
oh you just opened a can of worms there. Novus 1 and wax are two different things. lol
Let me warn you guys, I am a 'paint' nerd and know a thing or two lol about polishing.
Quoted from BrandonLaw:If you're up her skirt as much as I am, Novus works well. P21s for the every few hundred balls.
nerd rambling alert! read at your own risk
just for arguments sake Novus 1 is a cleaner/polisher finer than Novus 2, it leaves a residue on surfaces after it is applied that does not last long. It is designed for removing scratches and residue off plastic after Novus 2, Novus is a polishing cream for plastics system that applies in steps. Novus 1-2-3 is a step process and they are often incorrectly used on pinball for whatever reason and misinformation.
If the goal in cleaning I would use something else. If the goal is protecting I would also use something else.
Novus 1 for cleaning is just as good as anything else. I use iso alcohol 99% mix and works just as good as naphtha.
Quoted from swampfire:The best thing I’ve found for pinball cleaning is Klasse All-In-One. Non-abrasive, gentler than Novus 2, and works well on rubber too. This size will last you 5 years:[quoted image]
It is car product.
Anything that polish something has to be abrasive to some degree. It might be minimal but it’s there!
I can go on a tangent here talking about paint but I won’t.
All I am going to say is: always the least abrasive path is the best.
If you have not learned how to buff clear coat with minimal impact (using a gauge to actually measure thickness of paint on substrate) then you don’t know how abrasive somehting is.
I would share my most recent work if you guys are open minded.
Do not know who needs to see this but here it goes!
I got my LZ this week. If you ever saw me posting on threads (i have seen some of you) so you know I post on threads Of machines I own -only- or I just ordered ans waitint delivery of.
I was there when owned Stthings, IJ, T2 and the other Sterns/Williams when I had them.
I am new here so bare with me! Really enjoying LZ!!!
People who hate this machine either are obnoxiously repeating what others say or know little about pinball. Lz is without a doubt a gem and a sleeper and a lot of haters will be eating their words in a couple of yesre when this machine’s price doubles (Tron anyone?).
Just make sure to tag this post when that happens!
So here is an unsolicited piece of tech advice…
Is your LZ throwing air balls when your magic spinner is up??
A quick adjustment to the microswitch is in order.
Depending if the motor is stoppint too soon or too late, the same switch must be adjusted accordingly
It is a 2 second job that will make your game play better.
The spinner myst be absolutely flush with the pf, if it is too high it will damage the spinner floor and worst will send airballs preventing the magnet to catch the ball.
Here is the switch in question:
While you are at it make sure the fork is also flush. You adjust that by adjusting the 2 set screws under the coil. Make sure they are perfectly flush when down.
Cheers!
Quoted from swampfire:But so is
But so is Blitz 100 Grand…
Any recommendations? I’ll stand by my statement that Klasse All-in-One is less abrasive than Novus 2, and it works great on CC’ed playfields.
yeah any car product is adequate for a pinball machine coated with the exact same product cars are.
Not sure why people insist on using the wrong chemical (novus).
Klasse is a polishing with a sealer.
The sealer on it might act like a wax. The point of sealer is to create a barrier so grime, bird droppings, dust, brake dust, etx do not attach to the paint.
I would apply it mechanically with a machine and not by hand (because nothing polish better than a machine if you truly want to keep your clearcoat scratch free and in good shape)
Do not fall for the marketing “it does not remove clear coat” that is just taunting the fact that it will not melt or permanently remove it, but klasse is a polisher.
It is a polishing cream with a sealer, that is what 2-1.
It is product designed for the people that want to polish their car every week. The sealer will not last very long and the polishing compound in it is very fine, therefore it will remove very little clear but so does any polishing cream if you use the proper pad.
It might be very efficient for Pinball!
I would just apply it with a machine
Not sure how long it lasts but if it works then great.
If it containe silicones it might be problematic if the pf needs to be recoated again.
I will personally stick to wax as it is easy to remove with alcohol, whereas a sealer is chemically binding until it wear off with time/eleMents/friction. The sealer in klauss might not be like the modern polymeric sealers so it might be removable with cleaning.
In the car world newer coatings exists that are based off some harsh chemicals that bond and cure as a thin film over the clear making it hydrophobic for 6-12 months.
Klasse is not that
Quoted from Hawks:Have Stern officially confirmed that LZ production will cease after next run?
Yes last run is happening with the last run of Guardians in September.
Just broke 500M score.
I thought JP premium was the best pinball ever made.
This machine shoots so well. Wow when the shots flow it is just a rush to shoot. So fast.
Loving it!
Quoted from kool1:It definitely deserves a better score. Some additional higher LE ratings would bump it up. Hint.
I actually didn't like it initially but when I came back to it a couple of more times I realized it was a lot of fun.
I have all A+ titles here, top 10.
I am enjoying LZ more than any other pin. It just flows so well when you blow it up it just pure magic.
Yes it takes a good player to get the shots but that is where it shines, you get this flowing it is just fantastic.
I think it is my current favourite!
The rules are just great too!
Quoted from BrianJ1337:EM frenzy is probably my favorite multiball in any pin yet. It gets insane.
Only got it a couple of times!
I get to distracted by wanting to shoot the song and I am ignoring the tours.
Still learning the rules but yeah I had a goos time the two times I was in EMbfrenzy!
Quoted from swampfire:The first advice I give to new LZ players is to prioritize the green shots. You can string together endless multiballs if you follow that rule.
Oh, but EM Frenzy - you just have to hammer LED and ZEP once you’re in a multiball. I think it takes 2 completions during the same ball to light EM Frenzy.
Thanks for the tips!
I think I will play a little Lz tonight
Sorry for the typos in my previous msg! Sometimes just respond quickly from my phone and my thumbs fail me.
What are the common spots on this game that see wear? I am asking about any common knowledge of ball guides needing washers, something specific to this game.... not so much 'protect the shooter lane' which is common for every game.
I can see how the ball guides in between the left lock, orbit and left ramp can receive some vibration when bricking up a shot, so wondering if you all added washers here or anything and if you did not, did you see any wear?
or any other area of the game for that matter?
Quoted from BrandonLaw:Inserts near flipper. Keep em lubed. Have a 3m abrasive pad on hand if you don't like ball-trails on your stainless ramps.
anybody adding washers under the ball guides by the left orbit? specially where the rubber (blue) bumper is?
Quoted from LeMansFan:Alright, let's see if this works. I didn't see an option for pdf/gif, but maybe I'm not looking in the right spot, rather I just dragged the file as suggested...
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I just realized this is how the EM is adjusted, I recently made a minute adjustment by tricking the micro switch but I guess it was not necessary if I had followed these instructions.
Quoted from shlt_thunder:Quick ask for advice. Pictured here is the little blue foam on the right ramp. I spent about an hour trying to get a little screw back into that foam last night. I was using a small/glasses screw driver yet the size of it still made it a headache to get the angle needed to get that screw in. Is there any tool that you all know that makes this more efficient. Thanks for any help you can provide to this mechanically stunted individual!
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yeah did not have to deal with these little buggers yet. Wondering if there is another alternative that is not a Phillips to replace these with.
Quoted from Kkoss24:Man I miss this pin ! It was a 3 way deal and I got my long awaited Met Prem but still .I can’t wait to get one back ,I’ve been longing for some LZ .Top 5 shooting pin IMO
I cannot get enough of this pin. It has the one more game feeling than no other game in my collection has, but maybe Iron Maiden?
I finally got it all dialed in like I like my pins.
Droopy flippers and perfect pitch to keep speed while very challenging to cradle.
Right orbit needing adjusting too, ball was not going into upper lock reliable until it passed my hands.
Funny how the previous owner never noticed these things, also flipper bars where installed at the wrong angle.
Just finished rebuilding the flippers too - for good measure- and only because I needed to adjust the bats so I went ahead and inspected the coil stops and replaced for brand new ones.
The game plays like a dream! This pin should be top 10! It makes no sense to be rated where it is.
We need to bump it up. I will be rating it soon. I am ready after 200 plays. It is a keeper for me! Also the art of the premium I love. Really cool looking pin.
We will all be laughing when people discover this pin in 1 year from Now and it is no longer made and the price sky rockets. Mark your calendars.
Quoted from bart0404:My Shooter Rod for LZ LE is weak. I took it apart and replaced the spring with the original shooter rod (the cubey add on "Zoso" stern one is on there). It didnt make a difference. I can tell its aligned correctly, the auto-launcher sends the ball right up that side ramp. When i shoot with the plunger its really weak barely gets to that ramp never can get up it. Can a spring replacement fix this? Or whats best way to correct it? Thanks!
Your ahooter lane ball guide is out of wack. Nees adjusting.
The plunger is weak because it is meant to ahoot the letters. It is fine.
Remove the ball and adjust by hand. 5 minute job.
Quoted from beelzeboob:I thought he tried that. I will say I had the same problem and did that...even had my tech friend take a whack at it. No dice. I've had this problem with 2 of my Sterns. No idea why it happens.
The auto plunger is shooting high so to me that needs adjusting.
The manual plunger being weak might be a combination of things.
I would take a step by step approach at things, shoule not be difficult to figure out.
Bally Willians autoplunge was a coil directly behind the ball in most cases, different design.
I think that game with auto plunger often had no shooter rod and where replaced by a gun or handle or button of some sort. Stern got rid of custom shooter handles and buttons by inventing this universal auto plunger and added the “action “ button.
I like It. Old Williams are cool too.
I think I asked this before but did not get any answers.
Has anybody put washers under ball guides? any ball guides scratching the PF? I am particularly weary of the left hand side, side eject and orbit by the blue bumpers ?
Are these ball guides ok without washers?
Quoted from nocreditdot:I have not seen any issues with mine. However, I decided against changing the sling slim posts to star posts for fear of causing clear issues.
So no issues under the blue ball guide bumpers?
It is just a great fast game!
People hating on it are simply bad at pinball I think. Because this game has mostly very tight shots if you want to make it flow you gotta wip it and it might feel like a brick if you can’t aim to save your life.
JP is similar in that sense but it lets beginners easily start the trex multiball by just hiting a toy 3 times - and it happens to be in the middle of the game - so it might feel like you have achieved something even if you drain shortly after.
Lz is t like that, you really need to nail that lz ramp and it might seem tight for some.
Anyway, that is my quick analysis. Might be full of sh!t lol but I feel I am onto something.
Lol
Love Lz, it is a super fun pin!
Quoted from petersonjandrew:Hello all! Picked up a LV premium last week and loving it so far. Had to solder a wire and clean an optical switch, other than that been playing fine with a couple electric magic spinner hiccups. Just curious if there's any basic but mandatory game tweaks in settings to help gameplay? I know that's a very general question, but maybe there's a previous post or 2 that stands out in the thread? Everything is set to default but the sound EQ.
Maybe some tricks to make that upper right flipper more manageable so I can actually hit the impossible extra ramp? Thanks!
Washers under two ball guides on left eject and left orbit.
Tune left eject guide so ball lands on flipper
Tune right orbit guide so ball 100% goes into eject (it can be bouncing off opposite guide)
Mylar under left ramp bracket to prevent pf wear
Droop flippers for better orbit shots
Protect shooter lane, reduce coil power at the ball through
Replace coil stops after 500 games if you want strong flippers (stern stops got worn after 500ish games)
It is a very easy game to shop out.
Quoted from shlt_thunder:What is the right orbit adjustment to prevent ball from missing the eject? I have that problem but can’t figure it out on my own.
Take a slow motion video with your phone so you can see where the ball is being directed at.
It is most likely hitting the leading edge of the opposite guide and bouncing off the wire form under the eject but yours might be different.
Once you identify the direction just take the ball guide off the right orbit and bend slightly with pliers or by hand. I needed pliers as I needed a degree adjustment by the end.
The slow mo video made it super easy to figure out
Quoted from Forehead_Slap:Ok... So do I need to raise the flipper? I absolutely can't do this.
Might need to align the dot with the tip. I find this game a little too easy for me if it is not droopy.
Quoted from shlt_thunder:Thank you both
Quoted from petersonjandrew:I would love to see some detail on this or pictures, thanks for the heads up! Let me know if you can find post.
Quoted from petersonjandrew:This is great!! Going to work on the left eject today. Thank you
Here is a link to a vid of what happened to ball in my game when the right orbit was out of adjustment.
Quick tip, if you are using pliers, use painters tape (or any tape) and a rag of some sort to prevent any damage and scratches on the guide when you are bending. Also, this is very soft steel, and it bends easily (except at the tip and you will need pliers).
My game needed a minute adjustment that made the orbit 100% reliable from what it was originally maybe a 60% fail ratio.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:I'm saying raise the back legs. By dirty, I just mean play 100-200 games without cleaning and waxing the playfield. You can still wipe down inlanes, rubbers etc.
I just pictured you dumping a pail of dirt into the game.
Lol
Quoted from DaddyManD:Just got my precious LZ LE back after a 6 month temp trade. She’s as beautiful as ever with new topper and speaker lights. Missed her so much! First game back got World Tour and Mothership and broke a billion…the flow is unmatched!
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best flowing game I have played! feels good!
I think it is an awesome fast pin.
Really it has everything in it to entertain.
I do find myself wishing it made better use of the LCD as the animations are lacking.
Other than that, excellent pin
Quoted from DaddyManD:Right ramp can be backhanded pretty consistently if game is set to proper pitch and playfield cleaned properly. From left flippers it’s just a matter of practice and you’ll start nailing. While it feels far from the flippers, I get very few rejects and power doesn’t seem to be an issue. Game feels bare to me without EM which also adds dimension and stacking. Code isn’t super complex so losing EM does feel like a lot.
All that said the pro still shoots like a dream and is fun. I am a lucky LE owner
Code is quite complex if you are after high scores and that is where it gets real fun!
I have the premium. The ramp and the em are cool but like it was mentioned before they are not integral of the game so you can very well enjoy a pro.
That said, these two elements add some very cool pinball “moments” that elevate this game to what I think it is an easy top 10.
Lz launching at the same time as GNR made for some awful reviews from people whonhave not played it and just compared to GNr which in my opinion is a horrible pinball game with distracting lights and just awful flow, just not fun. A pin for novices looking for music and a distraction but little knowledge of what makes a pin fun
So there is that.
I am yet to meet an experienced player that says Lz is a bad game. One very talented player I know told me LZ is the “best kept secret in pinball” and he is right.
Just an awesome game yet to be discovered by many people and when they do, they will dislike the price lol because I am telling you this game will be worth a lot in 18 months.
Quoted from swampfire:I think this is one title where you could easily sell your Premium and buy an LE for $500-1000 more. Maybe even break even if you timed it right.
I agree! The time is now
swampfire were you the one that had a Stranger Things? I think I might be confusing with another pinsider who I used to exchange lots of stth love
I no longer own Stranger Things btw.
Lol
But LZ isnt going anywhere
Quoted from beelzeboob:Turns out you should have kept the STh, too.
I learned my lesson! Lol
It was a pin for a pin so I came out alright. Never sell a pin for cash! Unless you have another one on the way lol or 2
Quoted from swampfire:Yep, I still have STH, still love it. People raved about LZ, Rush and STH about equally at league night this weekend. They’re all great games to me.
Awesome. Cheers
Quoted from Walkman:The Electric Magic will intermittently go down but returns immediately to the up position. The tests show the sensors and the motor to be working correctly. There is a malfunction message but no specifics for the source of the malfunction. The spinner works fine it is just the Electric magic unit that is not operating correctly. I had a pinball tech try to diagnose the machine but he was not able to pinpoint the source of the problem. Stern has not responded with any recommendations or possible sources of the root cause. Has anyone else experienced this problem or have any ideas.
I will take a look in the manual later and post some Ideas I might have.
First thing that comes to mind is checking what’s driving the motor, so I would need to refer to the manual for that.
Have you by chance updated the code by doing a partial update? recently? If so, it could be a glitch during and after updating
Quoted from Walkman:Yes, the machine has the latest update. 15 was performed by the tech and went perfect, and i just loaded 16 last week and it was successful. I appreciate any ideas! We love this machine, but we haven't been able to enjoy it for a while.
Sounds good. Just to clarify having the latest code updated by a tech does not mean much. It can go perfect and it can still glitch out, there wont be qny other indication than a game not working well.
Incremental updates are that, updates to the code already in the machine. Another option is flashing the card with the latest code, this eliminates any issues that a partial code update could potentially introduce.
2 things doing the same but very differently.
I will get back to you later
Quoted from kool1:Once in a while my game will start with the EM up and then after shooting it a couple of times it goes back.
I'm not certain why this happens but I'm pretty certain it's not correct. Wonder if your issue could be related to mine..
I also have that happen from time to time. Shooting any ramps resets it and it plays ok after that.
I think his issue is a bit different.
Will try to look at the manual, sorry it might not happen tonight though
Quoted from kool1:Interestingly even turning the machine off will leave the EM up and turning it back on also leaves the EM up. Won't go down until you start playing.
Happens 1 of 10 or 15 games right now.
I suspect it is code related not an opto.
Like my jP prem it sometimes does not do a full reset of the velociraptors cage. It is a known bug.
But I might be wrong here…
Does anybody know exactly what triggers the em to come up?
I have not figured out what it is in the code that does it
Quoted from BrianJ1337:I thought they fixed the EM not going down on game start around the 3rd or 4th code update.. Fixed it for me. Wasn't every game but maybe every 4-5 games I would hit start and it wouldn't go down until I hit a shot or ramp... Since the code update I think I've only had it happen maybe once or twice where it wouldn't reset
Yes that is right, mine does that, not very often.
But just wondering, rules wise, what makes the EM come up? What is the shot sequence?
Made a quick video to start diagnosing the EM on @walkman.
This is a first step, trying to keep it simple and in order.
If all is good after checking Cnn12 as shown in the vid, let us know and we will provide more instructions.
edit: I think I keep calling node #1 in the video to what is actually is #9, so ignore that... it is #9.
Quoted from BrianJ1337:The first EM activation is on lighting both LED and ZEP targets will activate it and the next long shot (depending on settings you can have it come up right then, I have mine set to pop up on the long shots to avoid hitting it when coming up) it will come up. The second EM frenzy mode I believe you have to complete at least one tour but the directions aren't too clear I just get happy when i get it!
Thanks
Quoted from shlt_thunder:I've noticed my EM stays up for ball 1 of the next game if I drain on ball 3 with the EM up on the prior game. I believe it is a bug that they never worked out. If you hit a ramp it goes down. It's slightly annoying when it happens, but nothing I can do about it until it is patched out.
That is it exactly
Quoted from LOTR_breath:The EM should go
To raise it for EM Frenzy, you have to get 3 more completions of LED and ZEP. And they have to be done in single ball play. LZ completions in MB don't count.
Thank you
Quoted from DaddyManD:OMG epic game that lasted over 90 minutes! Tripled my prior GC with 7 billion coming in Celebration day. Cleared all jackpots 3 times including side ramp shots with last side ramp jackpot being over 1 billion. In the zone! This game shoots like a dream and that flow and zone are just so amazing!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Holly crap. And I was feeling good about my 2 Billion.
Lol
Quoted from DaddyManD:2 billion is a great game! I had 3 bill until Celebration Day where things got crazy and had a big Icarus X. The stars just aligned. But if you can break a billion you have the skill to get 10!
Will try!!
Thanks
Quoted from pinballjah:Live version of album songs with Pinball Browser. Have to update album covers next to concert posters from each show.
Did you ever finish Iron Maiden?
Good job btw
Quoted from nocreditdot:How do those songs work with the expression lighting? Which songs did you replace?
Interesting points.
Quoted from Chalkey:Stern: fix the ball missing in the EM mech please. Super easy software fix this issue is fucking up location play.
I dont have this issue, I am sorry that you do. Can you give us more details about it?
Quoted from madamyates:I wish it was that simple. I cannot find a single place that sells one. Similar replacements do not work properly.
contact Stern support and they will either send you one or sell you one. The game is also being produced/on the line now, so there is no better time to find this in stock than now.
Quoted from andre060:You can't buy online for a part like that - they're saying call your distributor, who *can* do exactly what you're trying to do which is to get a specific part for a game that's not available anywhere else.
Good to know. This sounds like a new process to me, they used to deal with me directly before. Looks like they are trying to channel things through distros now? or more than before? I mean, it is a freaking spinner. I would buy several.
Quoted from Coz:Got my pro all setup and ready for location. Really like the Expression light kit
[quoted image]
Love the lights in this game.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:The spinner itself was also re-designed. There is a kit you can put in, but the newer runs already have that installed. I received the kit but never installed it since my original spinner works great.
How can I tell which version I have?
the only LE's are the ones you can make yourself, do it, it will 10 times cooler. The whole LE thing is a ripoff at the moment.
Quoted from kool1:Can you make 2? Lol.
I am gearing up to paint other things so I might wind up tacking this project eventually. IT is very low in the priority list
First order of things, restoring my LW3
<3
Quoted from pinballjah:You can make a translite if you can find a good quality image file online. I have made Rush LE translites and look as good as the original.[quoted image]
how did you find the image?
Can you share it? Also curious of what material is it printed on.
Thanks
I am close to 1000 games with the original.
Something is not right in the games that are braking.
What do the drop targets look like on the back? It sometimes is the pointy back chewing up the post.
Quoted from wtatumjr:I slid a piece of automobile vacuum hose over the posts behind Z and P. , Then installed rubber. No more breaking or need to rotate .
you can use a post sleeve and cut it in half, to allow space for the band....
or use a Data East half rubber sleeve post, they had halves in most of their games back in the 90s and this rubber is still being sold today.
Still, I do not have this issue, so something is not set up right in your games.
Quoted from kool1:Wow amazing.
I'm in the same boat. I find LZ to be my hardest game, I find my other newer Stern Rush to be significantly easier for me.
My highest is 2B+
I have not played it enough in the last 2 months… need to get at it!
Quoted from swampfire:I discovered tonight that I had a sticky Icarus, his shaft was jammed. The fix was easy, just loosen the screw shown below and align the guide with the one under the playfield until the shaft moves freely again.
[quoted image]
you can loctite the screw too, with blue. do not make the assy super tight as it will eventually shift sideways and jam the shaft again. I had a lot of those contraptions in Elvira HOH and tinker for hours with them until I realized they need a little play. Lock tite on the screw keeps it from coming undone.
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