Led Zeppelin (LE)
Stern, 2020
Led Zeppelin (Premium)
Stern, 2020
Led Zeppelin (Pro)
Stern, 2020You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider blue_agave.
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I’m in the LZ club! Just pulled the trigger on a premium. I’ve read through this whole tread, just wish I had marked the helpful tips that have been provided. Guess I have to go back through the thread. To be delivered Friday night, man Friday cannot get here fast enough! Guess I’ll have to go drop some quarters at the local brewery to get my fix until Friday.
Quoted from swampfire:Great to see so many of us new owners getting on board this week.
I’d recommend reading the rule sheet at TiltForums, as well as the one Stern put together. It took me a few days to absorb it all, but I’m really happy with the code now that I understand it.
http://tiltforums.com/t/led-zeppelin-rulesheet/6878
The Icarus rules confused me at first, but now they make perfect sense. Save your Icarus shot for when the four inserts are yellow or green, and you have a great mode going. I blew up an EM Frenzy that way, felt awesome. I’d put the rules for this game in the same category as TWD and MET. RayDay is killing it!
Thanks for the link. My machine has 1.02 code I believe, which code version took out the EM light frenzy? Or has that issue been rectified?
Since this is my first in home pin, can anyone suggest a play field glass protector to rest the glass on a tile floor for when I pull the glass. Thanks in advance.
Looking for help on adjusting the trajectory of the ball when it ejects out of the left eject. When the ball ejects it’s hitting the top of the left sling and not to the left flipper. I removed the plastic above that rail thinking that there would be a screw to adjust the rail, but no screw.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:First, make absolutely sure the game is level and not leaning to the left.
Second, the game might be too steep. Try making more shallow.
Third, if neither of those work, you can put a flat blade screwdriver behind the rail near the end and gently pry it out .
I know how frustrating this can be. I played a pro on location for a long time that would bounce off the top of the sling. Totally messes up the flow of the game.
I’ve got it level side to side and have the playfield at 7 degrees. Is 7 too much? I’m going to try to gently pry the rail.
Also having an issue with the shooter gate getting stuck backwards when the ball hits it and the ball gets stuck.
So after being delivered Friday night I spent the weekend playing my LZ Prem. I saw a post here that recommended changing the sling power to 16 to prevent the ball from leaving the playfield, which I changed. Are there any other settings I should consider modifying? All three flippers and both ejects are at factory default and I was wondering if there was an advantage of changing these default settings. I also lowered the setting for the ball eject into the shooter lane. Any tips or opinions are greatly appreciated.
Quoted from swampfire:If you can’t backhand the right ramp, move the right flipper up just a tad above the guide mark. That made a huge difference on my game, since the flipper was slightly below the mark.
Thanks, I have hit the right ramp with a backhand. Unfortunately I just don’t have enough practice yet.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:The lower flippers default is already on max. I also set my upper flipper to max. Default on that one is slightly below max for some reason.
I also lowered the one that says something like "upper eject when gate closed". It was too powerful and the ball often bounced right back into the eject on mine.
Yeah, that upper flipper is set lower than max. Not sure if it was that way for a reason. How are you liking the upper flipper set at the max?
I don’t recall what the upper eject default is and I am not currently able to check. Do you recall what your setting is set at by any chance?
Thanks to all for the help and tips.
I have adjust my playfield angle down from 7 to 6.5 and with a flathead screwdriver gently tried to change the angle of the ball guide for the left eject and the ball still hits the top of the left sling when it is ejected. I guess next I will have have to lift the playfield and inspect how the ball guide is attached to the playfield underneath. Hoping it’s a nut I can loosen and get a little more movement.
Also, when I select the 20 pop bumpers tour and send the ball up the left orbit it hits the gate and just goes down through the pop bumpers without hitting a thing and when it goes up the right orbit it ejects from the top lock hits the gate and more often then not does the same thing. What do most of you guys have the eject setting set at for when the gate is closed? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Quoted from swampfire:There definitely should have been a VUK to the left ramp here, like STLE. But I’ve decided to accept that the ball will always hit the top of the left sling. I cranked the left eject power to 150. That eliminated the “slow bounce to SDTM”, and adds a little excitement. Try that before altering your game too much, and let me know what you think.
Thanks! Any suggestions for the setting of the upper eject? I’m currently at the default settings for the upper eject and can’t seem to get any popopoppopopop when it bounces off the closed gate.
Quoted from swampfire:Oh man, I’m so happy right now. I cranked my left eject up to 200, and now the ball goes straight to the left flipper every time. It’s approaching the F-14 “Yagov” kicker in speed, but I’m okay with that.
Try different settings with the glass off. You can start the pop bumper tour to force that upper gate closed. I think mine is still at the default, but I haven’t noticed any issues with that.
Thanks! I increased by left eject and now it misses the left sling.
Quoted from LeMansFan:Anyone who needs the form, send me a PM with your email address and I'll be happy to send it to you. I've already sent it to a few other people on this thread.
PM sent with email address, thank you!
Quoted from Forehead_Slap:Has anyone else had the issue where you hit the ZEP drop targets and the ball bounces off and the targets don't drop?
It's only on pretty firm shots, and I'm wondering if they bounce back before dropping.
Yes, I’ve have also experienced this on firm shots.
Little help please, I noticed a light out under the right zeppelin on the apron. Does “Test all LEDS” take long or can the apron alone be tested? Edit - Never mind the door was open.
Will the apron need to be removed to get at the bulb?
Thanks!
Quoted from John-Floyd:LZ was the first machine I ever purchased. Played the pro first as a test and then ordered up a premium. EM, Lights, extra scoop add a ton to the game. No brainer for me.
Same here, for the past seven months been playing the pro at the local brewery. Liked the game very much and pulled the trigger on my first pin, the Premium. Loving the EM, the lights, and the extra ramp.
Quoted from swampfire:There are a few things you can do. Adjust the ramp to maximize the opening at the turnaround, and bend down the “prongs” slightly where the ramp meets the turnaround. I’m making that shot a lot more after those changes, it’s incredibly satisfying when you make it, so I go for it as often as I can.
If I may ask, what tool do you recommend to bend down the “prongs”? Thanks in advance.
Quoted from swampfire:I just used some channel locks, but you could probably use pliers too. I just bent them down maybe a millimeter, it doesn’t take much.
Thanks! I’d imagine using the channel locks along with a microfiber towel for protection. I need to slightly bend the prong in the middle of the ramp as the ball catches there from time to time slowing down the ball.
Regarding updating game code, which is the recommended file? The “game code” file or the “game code read me file”. I’d assume the game code file. Thanks in advance.
Well I’m three weeks into ownership of my LZ Prem and love the game. I typically do not turn the volume up so that I do not disturb the lady of the house, but I did the other night and in some instances it would make the glass rattle. After some inspection I determined it was not the playfield glass, but the back glass.
The top right corner is just a little loose and rattles a little when the volume is up. I haven’t removed the black glass yet to check, but is the little rubber piece in the top of the back box adjustable? If not I was thinking maybe some electrical tape to narrow the gap the back glass sits in. Anybody have this issue? If so, how did you resolve? Thanks!
Quoted from LOTR_breath:On my Game of Thrones I had to put three small strips of velcro(just the cloth side of the velcro) on the back at the very top. I was able to put it directly on the plastic frame so nothing is stuck to the actual translite. That worked for me. It was so loose it would rattle when I nudged the machine. I've had to do similar things to many of my pins over the years.
Velcro hadn’t occurred to me, probably thicker than electrical tape. I’ll see if I can get some velcro or foam tape at Home Depot. Thanks for the reply.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:I should add that I have the pinmonk fans on both lower flippers. Before that mod, I was still able to backhand the right ramp, but after about 10-15 minutes of play the mechs would heat up and I could no longer make the shot. With the pinmonk fans I can usually still make the shot deep into a long game.
So you find that the pinmonk fans help and are worth the spend? I’ve considered pulling the trigger but what’s stopping me is not knowing if they would make a difference. Love to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
Can someone please help this newbie with my question. I purchased a set of plastic protectors, clear. I assume these go under the plastics? Correct? Do the washers stay or go? Remove the plastic, add the protector, and then place the plastic back in place on top of the protector. Thanks in advance!
Has anyone experienced an issue with the ball eject during multi-ball? Several times I’ve been playing and I can hear the auto plunger going off but there is no ball in the trough. I can here the eject make an attempt but the ball doesn’t make it to the trough. Is my ball eject set to low possibly? Maybe an obstruction? Thank you for any thoughts or suggestions.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Do you have a shooter lane protector? Mine will hang up on it occasionally
Not at the moment but one is in the mail. Which shooter lane protector do you have?
Quoted from Hayfarmer:From mezel. Dont put the tab under it to hold in place. Not needed and it does raise the entry slightly
Thanks for the tip, I’ll try it out. Still leaves me with my issue on the ball eject during multi-ball. Not sure if it will make a difference but I am going to increase the power of the eject to see if that solves the problem. I set it very low until I could get the protector installed. Not sure if that’s the issue though, ball eject seems to work fine when it’s not multi-ball. Just speculation on my part, but would the ball eject act differently when four balls are on the playfield? Less weight on the next ball to be ejected (only 2 balls in the que instead of 3,4,5,6)?
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Pull the glass and just adjust to your liking. But, it takes a long handled Allen to get off, that thing is torqued on hard!![quoted image][quoted image]
Can someone please provide some additional info on this flipper adjustment. I have the necessary Allen wrench and I’m going to make this adjustment. Is the adjustment as easy as loosening the Allen screw, adjusting the flipper, tighten the Allen screw? Or is there more to it? Thanks in advance!
Quoted from Jediturtle:Picked up the armor at MGC. Much like the shooter, it’s kind of strange, but I love it!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I’m looking to pick up the armor as well. Hoping a vendor at Free Play Florida has the armor on hand.
Quoted from Hipponotic:Tours.
1st - 1971 - orbits
2nd - 1975 - ramps
3rd - earls court - switches
4th - 1977 - bumpers
Those are the first items for each tour.
Song list order can get tricky, but if you do the tours in that list, the additional ball to each multiball adds value, but specifically on the bumpers…the most balls wanted for that one since everything adds to the jackpot shot. hope that helps!!
Thanks for sharing.
I’m exited to experience the EM Frenzy light show for the first time after updating the code. But just my luck my EM spinner is acting up for the first time. I have the newer design and the spinner is not spinning as freely and sometimes stays in a horizontal position. I did change the post sleeve rubber this past weekend but that shouldn’t have changed anything. And I added some tri-flow which always makes the spinner rip. Maybe it got bent? I’ll have to take a look. Thoughts anyone?
Quoted from PinballHaven:I was pumped to see the light show.........and now I will wait
X2
Question on High Scores, I searched the forum but had no luck finding my particular issue. I noticed with the exception of the GC score all my high scores reset to factory default. Is it normal for the machine to reset on its own? If so, is it based on # of games played? Is there a way to change the settings so that they don’t reset? Thanks in advance!
Edit: I did another search and changed the wording of the search and I believe I found my answer. It appears to reset after a number of games. Can anyone tell which setting I need to change to keep the high scores?
Quoted from thekaiser82:Standard adjustment 39. Default is 2000. You can turn it off completely so it never resets.
Big thanks!
For those who have updated to the latest code, any issues? Seems it’s been quite since it’s been released, leads me to believe that it should be fine. Thanks!
Thanks for the replies, I’ll get it uploaded tomorrow. Fortunately I did not see the first version, looking forward to the next Frenzy.
Quoted from briyau15:anyone know the setting to disable the EM? I thought it was #51 in game adjustments but it came back up when I qualified so that doesn’t seem to be it. I’ve yet to fix my parallel spinner so would like to disable until it’s good to go.
Just updated, #53
Quoted from pascal-pinball:Is there a way to adjust the Icarus on a stick? So it will move smooth up and down?
Try the screw at the base of the Icarus.
Merry Christmas to All!
Anyone else having issues with the rubber (1 3/4) behind the drop targets? I go through them weekly. I don’t feel any burrs on that post adjacent to the right ramp. I’m considering wrapping it with some electrical tape. If one one has any tips or suggestions on how I might be able to mitigate this issue from happening so frequently please post up any suggestions. Thanks in advance.
Quoted from beelzeboob:I love Titans, but they break back there as well as stock rubbers. The rubber next to the left ramp is the same situation. Pinball Life perfect play rubbers haven't broken in those spots yet, though, so give them a try.
(I've got a pair of super bands in the wings in case those give out as well, btw...)
Yeah, Titans are what I’m using. You also mentioned the left ramp, did you mean the side ramp? Those are the two that I have to replace but the one behind the drop targets is replaced the most often.
Thanks for all the replies, I’m going to try the perfect plays next.
Quoted from TraitMocks:Sushko posted this solution about six months ago for the drop target rubber and i incorporated it to the center ramp rubber as well. i still rotate them both when the glass comes off and the wear patterns are not nearly as bad before this fix. it has lowered the maintenance factor for these rubbers quite a bit.[quoted image][quoted image]
I can see what you did there, but what is that? Is that a sleeve? Thanks!
Pic below, anybody know where this little hard rubber goes? It’s 3/8 OD and I found it up be the LED targets. I can’t seem to place it.
Edit: So this ended up being 1 of 4 o-rings that’s part part of the EM top. It is cracked and must have come off when in cleaned and turned the sleeves. Does any one know where I can get these? No luck on Pinball Life.
Quoted from ukengineer:Really enjoying Zeppelin and the rules are starting to fall into place. It seems like I have to adjust the Electro Magic spinner every 4 to 6 hours of playing. I’ll get it spinning pretty good then several games later it will struggle to spin much. Is this normal or am I not adjusting it enough?
The arms may be bent. Bend the arms so the spinner is oriented correctly when it’s at rest.
Quoted from Blue_Agave:Pic below, anybody know where this little hard rubber goes? It’s 3/8 OD and I found it up be the LED targets. I can’t seem to place it.
Edit: So this ended up being 1 of 4 o-rings that’s part part of the EM top. It is cracked and must have come off when in cleaned and turned the sleeves. Does any one know where I can get these? No luck on Pinball Life.
[quoted image]
Regarding the 4 EM o-rings I was unable to find this part using the stern part # 5445-9991-00, but the manual references a McMaster Carr #8297T163. I was able to locate these on McMaster Carr’s website. If anyone is interested the link is posted below, just search using part #8297T163.
www.McMaster.com/catalog/128/3874
Added over 2 years ago:Update: the McMaster o-ring arrived and is the same. Also, heard from Stern and the part # listed in the manual is incorrect. The correct part # is 545-9991-00
Quoted from dtrimberger:Key post worthy?
I placed an order, they come in a package of ten. I’ll advise once they arrive if they are the correct o-ring.
Quoted from Blue_Agave:Regarding the 4 EM o-rings I was unable to find this part using the stern part # 5445-9991-00, but the manual references a McMaster Carr #8297T163. I was able to locate these on McMaster Carr’s website. If anyone is interested the link is posted below, just search using part #8297T163.
www.McMaster.com/catalog/128/3874
Update: the o-rings I ordered from McMaster-Carr have been installed and they appear to be the same o-ring. Bag of 10 was $3.65 plus shipping.
Stern reached out to me and informed me that the part number listed in the manual is wrong, the correct number is 545-9991-00.
Looking for help with my flippers. Last week I replaced the coil stops and sleeves, flippers were nice and snappy and I played all week without issue. This morning while playing I noticed that the right flipper is staying up for a second or two. I did a quick inspection of the coil stops and manually moved the flippers and all seems normal. Can someone tell me what might be cause this? Or what I should check next? Thanks in advance!
Quoted from rimmeym:They look awesome and glad that you like them. They are now available on our Pinside Shop at the below link.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1337-inscribed-solutions/05902-led-zeppelin-pop-bumper-replacement-covers
They do look awesome! Just placed an order.
Quoted from John-Floyd:Yep - they are badass. Highly recommended.
[quoted image]
They look great! Received mine yesterday, hope to get them installed tonight. Looks to be a simple process.
Quoted from John-Floyd:Another winner from Inscribed solutions
[quoted image]
Looks Good! Being from Tampa, love that they have the infamous 1977 Tampa show printed on the top.
Quoted from Jrl80:Hey guys. Small issue here. So my right flipper and upper flipper get stuck in the up position several times during a game when pressing the right flipper button. I’m 99% sure it’s the button itself. Never really replaced buttons before because I don’t customize but where is a good place to get a replacement? Or do I need to just adjust something with the current flipper button?
Thanks in advance!
Possibly the coil stops.
Quoted from shlt_thunder:Found this tiny tiny rubber ring on the playfield. Anyone know where these might come from? I’ve never noticed them before.
[quoted image]
Part of the Electric Magic I believe. See post #7285
A little help please. My left plunger/crank assembly broke, pic below. My machine has approximately 3800 games played. My questions are the following;
1) Should all three plunger assemblies be replaced or just the broken one?
2) While I’m in there should I replace all three coils? (Coil stops have already been replaced)
3) Anything else I should replace in the flipper assembly?
All help/advice is appreciated. Thank you in advance
IMG_2440 (resized).jpegQuoted from CrazyLevi:Replacing an undamaged coil is ALWAYS a complete waste of time and money.
I wouldn’t bother replacing any of the other stuff that isn’t broken as long as it looks good.
Rebuilding flippers isn’t a big deal. Not much to gain by just “doing it All at once” If you don’t have fo.
Thank you for the reply. If I understand you correctly, just replace the broken plunger & link if all others appear in working order?
Quoted from LOTR_breath:Agree that replacing coils that are working is a complete waste of time and money. Disagree about replacing only the broken plunger. 3800 is a fair amount of games. Those links don't break very often like that. I would replace the plunger and link assy, the coil sleeve, and the coil stop on BOTH lower flippers. Optionally you may or may not want to also do the upper flipper. They are not expensive parts and they are the most important parts of the entire pinball machine.
Thank you for taking the time to reply. Based on CrazyLevi’s opinion I already decided to forgo changing any of the coils at this time.
I ordered three new plunger & links and even if I just change the broken one at least I have the others on hand in the event they do break.
Regarding the coil stops & sleeves I replaced those on all three flippers @ the 2000 plays mark as the OEM coil stops had already failed.
Quoted from Kalipin:Love the game, but as mentioned here numerous times seems the cross ramp on the premium is too hard and too random to hit and its rare that I can get a ball to go up reliably
Just curious, has anyone had luck with any adjustments to make this ramp easier?
Check the key posts, post# 2246
Quoted from PismoArcade:(sigh)
Now my Electric magic is completely inoperable. I had help following the fix that Stern put out to no avail. I've had a ticket in to Cointaker for over a week and haven't heard anything back yet. So frustrating.
Explain what the issue is, maybe someone can help.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:I would say that the premium is worth the upgrades over the pro. The pro is still a fun game but the Electric Magic spinner and the two extra modes that come with it are just great. This is a game that MUST be heard. The rules are tied into the songs, so if you can't hear the songs you will not really be able to score well and progress through the game. Yes, LZ prices are some of the best value around right now. So many people haven't connected with the game and prices have remained relatively low. It's a great pin!
I concur, the EM and hearing the music increase the experience.
Electric Magic Frenzy is fantastic.
Quoted from bigguybbr:If you have access to a 3d printer, I made a post sleeve that stops the rubbers from getting so chewed up there. They actually help on a number of other games where stern uses that skinny post.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6257328[quoted image]
Are these available to purchase?
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