It did not take me too long Tracing wires and deciding which circuit to use took me time, and I have a 150$ set of crimpers! Haha. It sounds like id still be waiting for stern to send me the "right part" going that route. If i had Molex pins on hand I most definitely would have used them. I could have put them directly into the playfield connectors open ports. If we are being technical is THAT even really "correct"? Its not how stern wired (some) of them. I just wasn't going to wait unfortunately when I knew I could get them reliably working. (You probably think i'm a hack )

Do you know what the connector is called on the node board side by chance? Not opposed to redoing it with more attractive parts!

Edit: There are also a lot of spade terminals used from the factory by Stern. (Start button, coin mechs, door switch)

Thanks for the pictures. I was guessing the harness they send would be a jumper from the CN14 port on the node 1 board, but now seeing that there is an unused 48v in the cabinet harness makes realize two things one the harness will go from there to optional cabinet lighting and two this is a sleazy move at best by Stern. They should have either included the harness with the expression kit (with the price charged) or simply not advertise something they know at some point not to be true.

I'm thinking the same thing on the jumper. And I agree it should be included. Was very frustrating spending a Friday night installing the lights just to find out I have no plug in my almost 7000$ (now) machine. That's why i wasn't going to wait. I'm not sure if there is an any 3rd parties making splitters? At the time I cut into mine, I could not find info on how stern was "correctly" fixing this issue so I was afraid to tie into existing used wires.

Thanks also to notbodied for the pics and explanation. My skills are limited, so I will wait for the fix from Stern. I wrote again to the tech support person at Stern who had responded to my initial request and he forwarded it to the parts department, and I heard from the parts department yesterday that the parts would be sent to me ASAP, so we'll see. The tech support person also sent me a PDF called "Expression lights TEE Power Adaptor Kit Game Accessory, Installation Instructions." If that's of any use of you, howitzer11, and you don't already have that PDF, let me know and I'll send it to you. It does clear some things up related to the hardware and hookup, assuming one waits for and uses the Stern fix.

well, to put things in perspective, for my 40th birthday I bought AIQ, I had issues and made a call to service, they said they would send me parts. I sold the game 2 months after... I am 41 and a half now, I just got the parts last week. lol true story.
YMMV

Yes, good perspective. Understood. Sometimes ASAP means "As Sternly As Possible." I've been waiting 6 months for a promised replacement for a damaged cabinet for an NIB game under warranty as well. We'll see . . .

Yeah if you could post the pdf or message it to me that would be great. Thanks

Has anyone put a topper on a pro? I know it kind of defeats the purpose of buying a pro but... The colors are clearly tailored towards the LE. Just wondering if anyone has a pict if they could post it.

PMed link to PDF.

I have put a topper on the Pro. Looks and works great. It's routed so it will be a bit before I can get a photo, but I'll post one later if no one else does.

Alright just join the club, what's a must have mod for this game?

pinwoofer

A cheap mod is an audio jack from pinball life or pinnovators as well as the lighted speaker panel kit. A very expensive mod is the topper, now available from some distributors, but you pay a pretty penny for that. I have all three and love them.

Expression Lights are a MUST have.

Also, an external subwoofer and/or better speakers in the head.

I agree, but I'd say you'd best check to be sure that you have the necessary harness connector (should be a free white connector in the bottom center of cabinet lying next to the speaker) before you attempt to hook them up or get them. If you read through this thread you'll see that some of us did not have that connector in our LZ Pro pins, which is necessary to hook up the expression lights, and we're still waiting on the parts from Stern to address the issue and enable the expression lights power supply hookup. Also, note that you really need to remove the playfield to hook up the expression lights, so it's much easier with two people.

Sounds like I'm lucky they came pre-installed by the prior owner.

Yes, you are!

Yeah I've got a premium that has the expression lights.

What is this for exactly? Thanks.

Instructions from Stern for hooking up expression lights IF your machine was missing the proper harness and connector from factory to do so. A few of us with Stern Pros bought the expression lights then when we went to hook them up found out we were missing the necessary hardware, which Stern has promised to send (still waiting for the hardware, but Stern sent me the PDF for when it comes).

Today I rearranged the albums on the wall behind Led Zeppelin and Rush to display their respective albums.

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Nice. I’m saving up for a rush to go next to my zeppelin.

Looks great!

I want your Spiderman!

Thanks! Spidey is going out on Friday for a temporary trade and Deadpool his taking his spot for a few months.

Guys/Gals.

All of a sudden I'm getting a bunch of bricked shots to the left scoop. Goes in, doesn't seat, comes out and then I hear the coil. Before I try to rig up a slow-mo cam...anyone experience this? I'd say 4/5 'harder' shots brick (ie shots from the right flipper.) Of course if it just eases it's way in, it'll seat.

If this is a new development (not something that was this way from the start), I would guess either your scoop flap/deflector thing loosened up a bit, or bent back a bit from being smacked repeatedly. Try tightening first. Then slight bending. You could also try a bit of drop dead foam (if you can still find it) or something similar to help deaden the ball when it hits the flap.

Thanks! I do feel a bit of foam to deaden the spin would work well as I think it just spins it's nuts right outta the hole.

Edit: Foam added (1"x.5")to the bottom of the scoop and we are back in business. Doesn't hinder the vuk. Had some of this laying around:

https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Adhesive-Rubber-Neoprene-Padding/dp/B07K7J52K5/ref=sr_1_23

Good to keep on deck.

Team, got a new topper and the spotlights move but don't light up. Placed 3rd cable in the spot per the photo in post 3992 on this forum. Any advice or anyone have a pic of where they put 3rd cable? Thanks!

Check your cables that connect inside the spot light. Most of them split from the factory and you need to either add more wire or get a replacement from stern (same length?)

Thanks. Geez this is from the latest run of toppers... that stinks. Guess that requires disassembly and soldering?

Yes and no, stern sent me a replacement but I did a hack solder job on the original and added a small bit to my wire (right side seems to be the culprit usually) and haven’t had any issues since.

I do have a translite flickering issue that we cannot figure out so at some point I’m going to have to try and trace every connection and see what’s going on. Other than those two things this pin has shot like a dream every game

It really does shoot like a dream. Absolutely love this pin

I have a kit around for making connectors and it comes with the metal sleeves that seat into the connector. They have a really thin, yet flat tip that v's. I attached two of those suckers on the end and slipped them in with the current connector. Tight and working no soldering and easily removeable. Hope this helps.

I DO have to say out of all the pins i've owned...this particular pin needs the most upkeep. 4 ramps and a load of stainless items means the ball will wear faster. I use Ninjas, but usually replace them after about 200 plays which is for my own OCD, but even adjusting the left eject, the spinner, the shooter lane, the rubber behind the zep (rotating it to not break,) Novus 1 constantly to keep my inserts from seeing wear as many do and random other 'here and theres' this game just needs to be absolutely dialed for the best experience which truly is one of the best and possibly underrated games. It shoots so well and right. I think Nick from buffalo stated that this is one of the games that pays homage to YOU as a player. The game itself (if dialed) isn't trying to hose you. I personally pay close mind to what this game should be doing and keep it adjusted to do so and it will live on in my collection. So much fun.

TL:DR Keep it tight and it will be right.

It seems to be the favorite when people visit

This piece of shit.

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Anyone have a legit fix for this yet? Honestly, I don't mind leaving it off as I could use a multi-ball break, but what about hitting it lightly with some dykes to imprint some slots and tossing a tiny E-Clip on it? Anyone try this?

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bend the end after installed and it wont fall out.Look at last page of photos for a nice look .its in the 60s i think

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10-4, Ramrod.

Take the whole assy off and install it outside the game, bend it as suggested earlier and with the help of a vice press the tip to make that dimple on it

I have two routed LZs and the gates came off on both. What I did was reinstall each gate and simply put a drop of solder on the top end of the gate so that the straight end couldn't slip back through the assembly. The games have been played a few hundred times since and have operated properly and remained in place.

I’d much rather have a gate issue than the electrical issues I have. Cannot figure out this translite flickering and it’s driving me nuts

I would like to nerd this out with you if you want. The lEDS are controlled by the node board so this is most likely a capacitor issue, have you looked at the schematics? It will show you what is the cap that controls power to these LEDS on the node board.
I can spend some time looking at the schematics if you find the correct one (they are all on Stern's site).
I have experience micro soldering and this might be an easy easy fix.

First thing though, just to cover the basic and make sure this is not a software issue. Have you flashed your SD card with the latest code, when I say flash I am not referring to an incremental update but actually using the SD card image and flash the entire code at once. If you have not done this do it first, then we can look at the electrical issue.

My LZ is arriving soon!

Another questions: has anybody looked at modifying the code with pinball browser to add... ehemmmm.... Stairways to heaven? I would be interested in doing this and to change out some of the songs when if/possible. I understand this is more challenging that in older DMD games, specially dye to the integration on the LCD and backboard BUT HEY, this is pinball and ANYTHJING is possible.

Gate issue solved. Elegantly, I'd like to think.

Simple: In order of pics. Mark it. Score it. Take off bracket (unless your meathooks are tiny or you're in the mood to lose a clip to the pinball abyss.) Reinstall bracket which gives you a chance to true it up to NOT hit the ball guide. Profit.

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So far tech support has had me replace the entire main board, power supply and one other board and no luck and worst part is I broke one of the clips on the main board, doesn't effect anything but still sucks.. The last contact I had with them was to go through every single connection and check.

It's tied to my right side flipper as the translite flickers only on a full press of the right flipper. I have tried other outlets etc but is it possible I have dirty electricity or something and it's not related to the actual connections.? It's definitely got me stumped. Game plays fine but watching that translite flicker when playing just gives me a twitch in my eye.

mmmh...

Have you removed the right flipper assy to make sure the metal plate is not touching any of the GI underneath it?

I do not have LZ yet but I have had many Sterns and some of these often have GI stapled under the Pf by the out lanes, these often are exactly underneath the flipper assy.

If you are telling me that it is flickering under a flipper activation it sounds like something it is shorting when this circuit is activated. It could be very well be anywhere on your hose really but I would start by looking underneath the assy to make sure there is fish paper there blocking the GI from the assy or it might be shorting in a weird way.

See if you get continuity in between the flipper assy and the grounding braid (you should not I believe), if you do, then your GI is shorting the flipper assy.

I am thinking out loud really, and what I am saying might be incorrect so feel free to roll your eyes if these recommendations are stupid.

IF everything is good at the assy, then by following the logic of the flickering being caused on flipper activation I would perhaps inspect the wiring from the flipper to the node board and isolating it to see if this solves the issue.

I think that if you isolate the wiring, removing it completely from the hose it will reveal if there is a short somewhere, maybe there is a exposed insulation somewhere and the high voltage of the flipper is leeching into another.

Last I would try to run a new cable isolating the flippers, and see if perhaps this is caused by a lose connection somewhere, creating more resistance/drawing more power? Have you measure power at the flipper when activated and see what voltage you get and compare it to the other side.

If you have replaced the CPU and Power and everything is grounded properly (have you checked grounding?) then the issue is probably wiring, in my opinion, the culprit is usually the most obvious thing.

Keep me updated I love this stuff.

Nice fix and nice pics. Thanks!

I’ll go through these suggestions this weekend and let you know! I appreciate any help at this point, I’m new to pinball repair and maintenance so everything I’ve done so far has been learning as I go but definitely agree it’s tied to the flipper assembly to some degree and only the right side so I will start there.

Thanks! - Brian

Keep in mind with this particular game, the issue with changing songs goes beyond LCD integration and the back panel art. The modes themselves are integral to the songs, with lit shots, combos, etc changing with the music and parts of the song. For example, most guitar solos light the center ramp for looping combos during the solo. Lit shots change for refrains vs choruses, etc. It is some very creative and unique theme integration. You will lose that if you replace songs. Yes, it can be done, but you break that perfect integration. Same with the expression lights. These aren't just lights that randomly pulse with the beat like you can make a cheap set of Christmas lights do. They are programmed individually to the songs and work great with the music. Again, if you change the songs, this will no longer integrate. Having Stairway to Heaven playing while the expression lights go crazy because they were programmed for say Immigrant Song is going to look very strange.

Can it be done...sure. Should it be done? Ehh...it's your game...do what makes you happy. But it will destroy some VERY cool theme integration that this pin does not get enough credit for. If you do not care about the light show and rules matching the music, then no worries.

Ah! Did not realize this.
You are correct on all and then it does sound like my idea was a terrible one.