I have one in both my Sterns. I like them.

When playing my premium LZ today, I noticed two of the LED's are dim or do not light at all. Play or test is the same result.

The R left outlane and the O return lane are both not working properly. They are not bulbs.

Any help is appreciated.

Put $5 in Led Zep on location and then find it has a busted rubber causing ball traps.

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Finally got to Celebration Day! I got there through top of the charts but I still count it I havent made it to too many modern wizard modes so Im pretty excited about it. I've got a pro with expression lights and feel like this game is sooo underrated

That sucks,the rubber on Zepp didnt seem to last long

Still got all the high scores.

I had really bad luck with those rubbers around the ZEP targets until I swapped them for superband rings. I only changed those that seemed to break a lot and they've held up great on location.

I added a small piece of automotive vacuum hose around the left post of the ZEP target. I haven't had any more problems.

Hey, what does everyone's ball hit on a full plunge or with auto launcher? Mine hits the "D" target most of the time on a full plunge.

The game on location would launch the ball cleanly into the dead end "Guy with a lantern" target. I had to adjust and pull back a little more than halfway on the plunger to hit the "D". Was cool seeing the ball launch up there, should it? If so, what should I adjust?

Edit: pretty sure this gate is the issue. Except I fixed it and still skillshot at the "D" target on full plunge. Auto launch power is default 200.
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Make sure the manual plunger is not catching slightly on the auto plunger and pulling that along too. Mine was doing that from the factory.

This time I found what I can adjust. The actual shooter Lane ball guide can be adjusted via this screw. Got it working!

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I also connected a sound bar and subwoofer via a Pinnovator sub output connector plug into the backbox. Sounds terrific and much easier than doing a full speaker replacement like I have in my Aerosmith.

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Can someone with a Zep Pro please help me troubleshoot this parts problem described below? What I need to know is the part number for the harness in your Zep Pro that connects in the backbox to CN4--CABINET NODE. The part number will be on a tag about a foot from that connector in the backbox. The part number for the harness I have is 036-5600-54.

I ask this because I went to hook up the expression lights in my Pro but could not because my harness that runs to CN4 is clearly missing a connector and the associated wiring. According to the expression lights installation instructions and the video by Tim Sexton, that connector should be an unused white five-pin that sits in the harness near the cabinet speaker. But my harness clearly has no such connector or wiring and I'm guessing that the wrong harness was installed in CN4. I plan to write to Stern to ask for a new harness, but I want to be sure to get the correct one and verify the part number--in addition, I'm curious if other Pro owners have hooked up the expression lights and had to get a different harness than factory to do so. Any help to shed light on this problem is appreciated.

Following up on my above request, I wrote to Stern and got a same-day reply confirming that the harness used in my Led Zep did not have the correct connector for expression lights hookup. This was due to the harness available when my machine was manufactured. As a fix, under my machine warranty, Stern is sending me a y-connector and harness that will power off the cabinet node board, which will allow me to hook up the expression lights mod. Thanks to Stern for fast and helpful tech support.

I forgot I had a set of plastic protector. Yellow for slings and orange for the flipper return plastics.

Two pics showing before and then two after. Looks really good in person, makes the area pop a bit more.

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Does anyone know the part number of this sling post that broke? Need to get it from Marco. It’s the bottom post (nearest to the flippers) it comes up above the plastic with a nut on top to secure.

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Miss zepp prem- is it true they may be making more this year? Otherwise maybe a HUO local one will pop up under msrp by end of year.
Wishful thinking lol.

Yes, few distis taking pre orders
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/136872

Nitro went up yesterday also

https://nitropinball.com/collections/pinball-machines/products/led-zeppelin-premium

Translucent flipper rubber is added and I really like the white on white look. Super clean looking.

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Has anybody gotten the complete plastic protectors set from playfield-protectors.com who can share a photo?

just posting to say hello as I just joined the most uncelebrated and underrated pinball machine of the last few years.
My friends have it and I enjoyed playing it so much that I could not pass up a good deal I just found and got one so I am very much looking forward to it!

Congrats!!

I enjoy mine. So many people got down on it but it's a fun game.

Did you buy the premium that was for sale in BC?

Yeah that is the one!

Awesome.

Some people trash LZ but it's very flowing with great shots and if you like LZ music is pure pleasure. Very underrated game IMO.

Did you receive the harness? I’m in the same situation Stern responded immediately saying they would send one I still don’t have it.

Not yet, but I will update once I do.

Feeling good. I bought my first pinball, Led Zeppelin (LE) a few months ago, and just made my first repair. I had to fix the spinner inside the Electric Magic. Not terribly complex, but proud of my novice efforts.

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I had the same issue. I did not want to wait so I cut into the unused 48v wires going to the playfield. Lights work great and are awesome! I took a few pictures if you're interested.

Has anyone gotten a replacement metal gate to replace the one way gate at the shooter lane? I can’t seem to find one on pinball life. Mine is on its last legs.

Found this...doesn't look right from my memory of that buggar magically ending up in my flippers but it's the only one Marco's seems to have...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-2335-00

Covered the bare metal plate with the nut on top with a mod I made. I guess that’s where some people put the big clock mod, but a clock doesn’t seem very rock and roll.

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I'd be interested in those pics if they show how you managed this, along with some further detail if possible. Getting tired of waiting for the promised part from Stern.

The gate wire should be about 2 1/4 inches wide
The Iron Maiden gate will work though it is "u" shaped instead of the LZ "w". Just try to find a similar Stern gate wire

Alright I’m looking. Right now I’m not seeing a 2 1/4. I wish they had used a thicker wire form. It sure gets beat up over there.

contact Stern,They sent me the gate

Was the gate they sent you the same or did they beef it up a bit?

They have sent me two new gates. Hard to say if they were any better since my Pro had 14,000 plays on it before we replaced it with a Premium.

The same,It hasnt fallen off since though

Ouch!

anyone whos gate falls off should bend the end when re installing and it wont likely fall off anymore.more info and photos in the 60s in photos

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I’ll give that a try. I play my machine a lot 4,000 plays this year. So my gate takes a lot of abuse. If they sold those on Marco or pinball life I would just order a bunch of them.

If you don't mind posting that would be great. Still no harness from Stern.

I rotate mine up there every few weeks. And switched to Titans. Had same problem with standard rubbers

I'm sure someone will tell me I shouldn't do this, but its worked great so far. I did not contact stern and ask about what their fix was so I didn't want to tie into the existing node (1?) board power. I did unplug node board 1 and plugged the power into the expression node board and the lights worked perfectly. I spent a decent amount of time tracing wires and looking at unhelpful diagrams in the game manual. I decided the best option was the unused, switched, 48v power and ground wires going to the playfield.

I de-pinned a grey and a black wire from the connector and cut the wires so i could repair the harness if there was ever a need (selling the game, ect). I used spade terminals for the wire to wire connections, and some small terminals I had from some weather pack connectors for the connections I had to make at the node board. Heat shrunk all the exposed terminals and saved the little pieces of black and grey wire in case I ever want to un-do what I did.

To me it was worth cutting into the part of the harness that wont be used, I can understand others not wanting to do the same. There was just no way i wasnt going to get those damn lights working!

edit: If you could get a 2 pin Molex (or whatever the playfield power connector is) you may be able to avoid cutting the cabinet harness at all? I used what I had, I wasn't waiting any longer ha.

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I would have perhaps repined the cables with the correct molex connectors, so it does not look like a it is has been permanently modded, no offence, I would not buy a game with this type of work on, as it leads me to believe it has been hacked elsewhere yet to be found, ymmv. I see it as the owner did not spend $ on the right tools for the job and there are more 'mods' somewhere else.
That is just my personal take. no offence

Using the correct molex is really the only way I would be making this sort of mod in a way that is fully reversible without any visible nor permanent mod if it is ever corrected.

No offense taken! I have faith in my soldering skills. I know pin-fit is tight and there is very little chance of having an issue with it. Like I said the two wires I cut plug into an empty hole in the connector. They can be re-soldered and put back into said connector. I've decided these games probably have hundreds of solder joints, I'm not going to freak about two more (that are not even carrying current). I made sure it's unpluggable and the playfield is still easily removable, but it definitely voided the harness warranty haha. Either way I totally understand the concern and I did think about how it would effect value.

No concerns about your skills but more about the logic behind not using the right part.
Get yourself a set of cheap crimpers and some molex (I have a box full that I always use). It is really nice to have the pins, headers and connectors ready at hand. You can make an OEM connection in less time that it took you do all the work you posted above.
Trust me.