Gotta catch a plane in a couple of hours, but as promised.....

Test subject BK2K-
All Lamps on for the same amount of time.

Back Box

Half Incandescent #44, 2 - 55W lamps, Half Frosted #44 LED
All temperatures recorded in Celsius

Back_box_INC_vs_LED.jpg Back_box_INC_vs_LED_IR.jpg Back_box_INC_vs_LED_graph.jpg

Inserts with LED , guide lanes and Pops with #44 incandescent

playfield_inserts_led_VL.jpg playfield_inserts_led_IR.jpg Playfield_LED_graph.jpg

Playfield inserts #555 all incandescent

playfield_inc_VL.jpg playfield_inc_IR.jpg playfield_inc_graph.jpg

Side by side inserts LED vs INC from under playfield

insert_under_VL.jpg insert_under_IR.jpg Insert_graph.jpg

Will post more when I return.

I'm going to LED out my Fire! when I return. I'm going to take some images of the row/column wires, fuses and driver board before and after for comparisson. Should be interesting.

I can post some pics under the LED sticky when I return, going to be awaya from my main rig for awhile.

And Haven't forgotten about you Cliffy, Didn't have the time to play a game so the shots of my driver board and fuse holders weren't very good. I'll take some close ups under load soon.

You're right. The difference in lumen output of the left side vs. the right side is huge. This is not an apples to apples comparison really as the right side of the box are actually frosted yellow LED's, they are the only loose LED I had in quantities to be able to do a significant portion of the backbox. I did take a shot with several frosted cool whites that I'd pulled out of my LIS, and although the lumen output seemed comparable, the heat signature was still very much the same as what is pictured in the top set of pics. Honestly, I am a bit of an ubergeek when it comes to this kind of stuff, I actually have a trending light output meter that measures LUX, Lumens and foot candles too, so when I get back we can do some much more clinical testing if we want.

Can do.

Agreed, I think there are games that look better with the twinkle of standard bulbs, hell, all of the lamps in my house are halogen as I don't like the artificial look of LED's compact fluorescent etc. That said, I'm having a rough time finding plastics for a couple of my games, if the trade off for keeping the plastics I've still got healthy and happy for years to come is a harsher looking light, chances are I'll change 'em out.

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check those out.

I've never personally had plastics damaged, other that warping and yellowing, but ive seen my fair share of burnt bumper caps. Also, after spending a bunch of time knocking back playfield inserts in my f-14, i gotta figure cooler is better.

I bought mine on the Island a couple years back. Beautiful machine.

I think thats my buddy Dave. Great guy, played my Getaway and wanted his own.

Next series. That's where these cameras are awesome in ths hobby. Bad solder joints, bad connectors, oberloaded wires, fuses etc. Thry all show up like lightning bolts.

For sure. The smoking gun pictures that I want to capture will show the fuse warmer on one side than the other. If the fuse is seated well the current should be the same throughout the length of the fuse. Likewise, looking at rows and columns/strobes etc. finding one wire that glows brighter than the other means that it is usually more heavily loaded than its neighbours but not nescessarily a problem.That same wire that glows more brightly at the termination and cools the further it gets from it, thats a bad connection that if not corrected will end up with a burnt connector or worse.