The connection looks to be attached to the correct wire string. You can unplug this wire from the lamp board to test, as the leds will still work without it, they’ll just flicker pretty bad.

However, I’d start by checking the connectors on the lamp board first. If all controlled lamps are out, suspect J4 and/or it’s connection to the mpu.

For the switch, are you testing it in switch mode, and activating it by hand?

Enter into switch test by opening the coin door. There should be a red button on the backside of it, above the coin mech.

Press it once, and you’re in lamp test-all controlled lamps should flash
Press again, you’re in display test-display digits should cycle
Press again, you’re in solenoid test-coils will cycle one at a time.
Press again, you’re in switch test. The displays will show a number of a switch if it is closed. You’ll need the manual, or the chart in the back box to decipher.
Be aware that the test only shows the lowest number switch that is closed. So you need to clear them out one at a time. If the ball is in the game, it will show that (probably switch 8 ) and you’ll need to take it out.
Once the switch test is showing now numbers in the score displays (there will be a number in the credit one) you can manually activate each switch to see if it works. Raise the pf and adjust switches if necessary, but do that with the power off.

Even though a connector is in place, does t mean it’s making good contact. A lot of the time the male & female portions need to be replaced. If they are tarnished and green, it needs to be done. You could also test for continuity to check the pins on the lamp board.

But, since you’re F1 fuse is blowing, you probably have something else going on. Fuse F1 is for the controlled lamps. Start by confirming that bridge rectifier 1 is good. You can use diode test on your dmm. Or, remove connectors J1, J2, J3 from the board, replace the fuse and turn the game on. Check TP1 for around 6 vdc with your dmm.

If the voltage is not there, BR1 is bad. If the correct voltage is there, the problem is later down the line.

If you have a lamp power/ground shorted, it will cause the fuse to blow. Start by checking with your dmm for continuity

Yes that was to test for the correct voltage from the rect board, without blowing a fuse again.

To test for shorts on the pf, you can use an alligator clip to hook onto a section of the lamp bus wire (bare wire on the pf), hooked to one end of the dmm. Use the other end to probe lamps on that circuit. Just touch the corresponding ground wire (colored wire) at the socket. In continuity, you should not have a full buzz tone.

Alright! One problem down. Good work.

Seems like two issues, but maybe they’re related??

In the first video, everything seems normal, but it seems like the coils have no power (check the fuse on the rect board and the under pf fuse).

The second video looks odd. Something is shorting. On a whim, check all the switches on the coin door. These can have odd behaviors. An alternate method would be to turnt the game on, enter lamp or display test, then disconnect the coin door harness. Does it go back to normal?

Another test (to narrow down where the issue is at):

Put game in display test, unplug J1 from lamp board. If no change to the blinking, plug back in, and unplug j2. No change, unplug j3.

If any of these mad the issue go away, you probably still have something shorted in the lamp bus/ground

Congrats on getting it going.