There is enough current present to partially light them.

LTG : )

Switch back to light bulbs.

LTG : )

Usually happens when the LED anti-flicker boards are wired up wrong. Have you confirmed the feature lamp voltage is correct supply voltage (around 6.5 volts DC). Also confirm all the LED anti-flicker boards are properly receiving this voltage over the jumper wire.

These old Ballys don't suffer from ghosting - feature lamps are not wired in a lamp matrix. Non-ghosting LEDs will make no difference.

Non ghosting bulbs are what you want assuming you don’t have a voltage issue. But early SS games typically don’t have ghosting issues. Only flickering. Which is what aftermarket boards or applying resistors to the sockets fixes.

Depending on what you got from cointaker that are going to be the same type of bulb. They all come from the same place. So that’s definitely not the issue.

As Quench said verify you’re voltages. Make sure the jumper from the adapters are connected to the controlled lamp buss.

Also check the playfield connector on the power supply. If the connection to the controlled lamp buss is broken there the lamps will be on constantly.

If you have anti flickering add on boards or a lamp driver that supports LEDs make sure you have the 6.3vdc feature lamp bus wired to them properly. If it is not connected one SCR can light many lamps dimmly as the extra resistors provide a path to ground.

Do the slightly lit feature lamps occur from both the main lamp driver board as well as the auxiliary lamp driver board and is it every feature lamp?

Does this particular problem go away when you:
(1) Replace some LEDs with incandescents - are those incandescents ok?
(2) Remove the anti-flicker boards

Can you post some high res pictures of both the main and aux lamp driver boards with the anti-flicker boards hooked up and also where the jumper wire is connected?

Wont just adding a resistor to the socket take care of this?

if he has a LED adapter or LED compatible board in the game where the feature lamp bus is floating adding resistors won't help unless he does every single lamp ore removes the LED adapter board and goes back to stock.

When the feature lamp bus is floating on the LED boards ground then gets a path between two resistors on the LED board letting lamps dimmly glow when they should be off.

This is more than likely why the OP is seeing some lamps come on dimmly when they shouldn't. I can't think of any other scenario that would do it unless maybe some crazy ground potential issues where the LDB is at different ground than the feature lamp bus is.

The adapter boards have a small pad (or loop) marked "test" on them. Check that the voltage is the same on the test point for each board, and there is good continuity between them.

-Hans

Hi guys. My Flash Gordon is exhibiting the same symptoms as described in this thread. I am using the LED adapter boards that go between the lamp driver board and the J1, J2, and J3 connectors.

When the controlled lamps are "off", they glow dimmly and brighten and dim in time with any flashing lamps. I also noticed that in Lamp test (first press of self-test button on the coin door) when all the lamps are on or off at the same time, no ghosting when they are off. So it certainly seems like some voltage is leaking from other lit lamps during gameplay.

I took voltage readings at the test points on each adapter board:

J1 5.10vdc
J2 5.72vdc
J3 4.95vdc

If I remove the adapter boards zero ghosting occurs.

One additional note is I had started to add resistors to the lamp sockets and did the upper playfield before getting lazy and deciding to use the adapter boards. Could the resistors be causing this issue somehow?

Voltage looks right, but where did you attach the clip to get the voltage? I've seen a few instances where people try the 5v test points on the CPU or lamp driver boards, and unfortunately those do not work. Also, it does need to be connected to a controlled lamp power line, and not a GI lamp circuit.

-Hans

To get the voltage readings I put the positive lead on the test points on each of the adapter boards and the negative on the braided ground wire in the head.

For the voltage readings, yes. I was referring to where you attach the alligator clip on the LED adapters.

-Hans

So I am using the Siegecraft Bally led adaptor boards (https://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=44&controller=product&id_lang=1). They have a test point on one end (labelled P8/P9).

Sorry to hijack your thread, I just thought because I had the identical issue it makes sense to combine them.

I would suggest checking the test points on the rectifier board and if they check out the Solenoid Driver Board to see that you have power where it should be.

R8f1k;

Are you still seeing the LED's slightly-dim at all times, with around 7.5v on the LED adapter test points?

-Hans