(Topic ID: 116552)

LED replacement tube for Stern backbox fluorscent tube?

By PhillyArcade

9 years ago


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  • 56 posts
  • 22 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by kevmad
  • Topic is favorited by 26 Pinsiders

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    There are 56 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 9 years ago

    Does anyone make a LED replacement tube for the typical fluorscent tube in the Stern back box? I have part number 165-5031-02 and I'd like to replace it with an LED tube as the fluorscent tubes are just eating those ribbon cables up! Thanks!

    #3 9 years ago

    You should consider one of these: http://www.arcadeupkeep.com/backbox-kits/4587457160

    More even light, allows your to set the attract and "in game" brightness level. Nice kit...

    #4 9 years ago

    Sweet thanks guys! Something to read while it's snowing! My ribbon cables thank you! In years to come those ribbon cables are going to turn to dust they are so close to those tubes!

    #5 9 years ago

    Happ has them:
    http://na.suzohapp.com/all_catalogs/lighting/91-0546-00
    Replaces a 24" F20 tube, $29.95 each.

    #6 9 years ago
    Quoted from Mrjamma:

    Happ has them:
    http://na.suzohapp.com/all_catalogs/lighting/91-0546-00
    Replaces a 24" F20 tube, $29.95 each.

    hmmm... not bad, not bad

    #8 9 years ago

    Great price for a led bulb. Is this the correct style replacement?

    #9 9 years ago
    Quoted from MJW:

    Great price for a led bulb. Is this the correct style replacement?

    I should get this bulb on Wednesday , I will find out if it works and report back

    #10 9 years ago

    I ordered the suzohapp one and I'll report back on how that works as well!

    #11 9 years ago

    well I tried this bulb from amazon and it does not work, I removed the starter and bypassed the ballast and it does not work, maybe the bulb is bad? maybe someone will know why it would not work

    #12 9 years ago
    Quoted from bobbyt:

    well I tried this bulb from amazon and it does not work, I removed the starter and bypassed the ballast and it does not work, maybe the bulb is bad? maybe someone will know why it would not work

    Did you splice the wires together where the starter was? Post a picture of your wiring now.

    #13 9 years ago
    Quoted from Kevgascan:

    Did you splice the wires together where the starter was? Post a picture of your wiring now.

    I did not splice the starter wires, i just removed the starter, i guess i have to bypass the starter also?

    #14 9 years ago

    if you read the description for the led replacement bulbs it says you must remove the starter for it to work?

    #15 9 years ago

    I think if you just remove the starter the wire/power will dead end there. I've put several in my machines and I think thats what I had to do.

    #16 9 years ago
    Quoted from Kevgascan:

    I think if you just remove the starter the wire/power will dead end there. I've put several in my machines and I think thats what I had to do.

    I will look into that , thanks for your help

    #17 9 years ago

    I've replaced household fluorescent tubes with LEDs and you do need to make wiring changes. The starter and ballast are disconnected/cut out of the circuit (and can be abandoned in place). Then the hot and neutral wires are connected as needed by the new bulb. I've seen some LED manufacturers that require the hot and neutral to be only at one end of the bulb and others where the hot needs to be connected at one end and the neutral at the other. The brackets/wiring points that the bulb pins mount to in the fixture are called "tombstones" - a term you'll come across when reading about wiring instructions.

    #18 9 years ago

    I just did my Monopoly with the suzohapp tube today. Pulled the starter, plugged in the LED tube, and it came right on. Looks great! Not as much coverage from top to bottom as the fluorescent tube but looks much cleaner, crisper, and bright. Best of all those rays are gone from my ribbon cables!

    #19 9 years ago
    Quoted from Schwaggs:

    You should consider one of these: http://www.arcadeupkeep.com/backbox-kits/4587457160
    More even light, allows your to set the attract and "in game" brightness level. Nice kit...

    I also think this kit is worth the money--nice to be able to have it dim once the game starts.

    #20 9 years ago
    Quoted from hootowls:

    I've seen some LED manufacturers that require the hot and neutral to be only at one end of the bulb

    I finally got the led bulb working, I cut out the ballast and the starter, took the hot coming up from the cabinet and hooked that up directly to the tombstone on the left side, the neutral is already connected on that tombstone ,that bulb requires a hot and neutral on one side,(thank you hootowls) It looks just like the original bulb but it is much brighter, now I don't have to worry about uv and the heat from the ballast and the bulb

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    #21 9 years ago

    Could you please explain a little further. I can't figure out how you did I that. Thanksimage-934.jpgimage-934.jpgimage-636.jpgimage-636.jpg

    #22 9 years ago

    So strange on my Monopoly I just took the starter out and plugged the LED tube in and it works fine. Didn't have to hack, cut, or change anything in the harness.

    #23 9 years ago
    Quoted from PhillyArcade:

    So strange on my Monopoly I just took the starter out and plugged the LED tube in and it works fine. Didn't have to hack, cut, or change anything in the harness.

    Ballast is needed for fluorescent tubes to function but not LEDs - I do not know what will happen to the LED if you leave the ballast in the circuit - I guess you are saying that it still works. Also, LED tubes can have different wiring requirements with some needing to be wired on the same end and others using both ends so it depends on how you source the specific LED tube.

    #24 9 years ago

    Instructions from Suzo Happ just say... "Simple installation - just remove the starter and place in original fixture (remove ballast for an additional 2W energy savings)" so that's all I did and it was fine. I guess for 2W I'll let the ballast ride

    #25 9 years ago
    Quoted from PhillyArcade:

    Instructions from Suzo Happ just say... "Simple installation - just remove the starter and place in original fixture (remove ballast for an additional 2W energy savings)" so that's all I did and it was fine. I guess for 2W I'll let the ballast ride

    Sounds good!

    Just for clarity here are two examples of wiring the LED at one end or both ends - again, depends on the LED manufacturer and how they have the driver setup. Both the starter and ballast are removed from the circuit in these examples. Just make sure to follow the instructions for your specific tube.

    Line and neutral at opposite ends:
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    Line and neutral at the same end:
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    #26 9 years ago

    the bulb I got from amazon is wired like this (thank you hootowls for the pics)

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    once I figured out how to hook it up, it really is just a 5 minute job, all you have to do is cut the starter wires and hook up the hot directly to the tombstone and you are done, I soldered the splice , shrink tube and electrical tape, it will never come apart and it is safe, this bulb is rated for 50,000 hours and a 5 year warranty

    #27 9 years ago

    May have to look into this as my metallica bulb is out after 6 months!

    #28 9 years ago

    Is there a led replacement for RFM as well?

    #29 9 years ago

    I'll be trying this today on an Ironman. Thanks for the info and pics. =)

    #30 9 years ago

    Any issues if you hook the LED tube up backwards? Hot and Neutral reversed?

    I'm thinking of aiming the LEDs toward the pcbs instead of out at the glass for a better overall effect.

    #31 9 years ago
    Quoted from DRDAVE:

    Any issues if you hook the LED tube up backwards? Hot and Neutral reversed?
    I'm thinking of aiming the LEDs toward the pcbs instead of out at the glass for a better overall effect.

    I don't think it would matter , I bet you could just put the bulb in and just spin it so the light is pointing on the inside, I will try it and get back to you on that

    #32 9 years ago
    Quoted from DRDAVE:

    Any issues if you hook the LED tube up backwards? Hot and Neutral reversed?
    I'm thinking of aiming the LEDs toward the pcbs instead of out at the glass for a better overall effect.

    it works just fine facing the pcbs

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    #33 9 years ago
    Quoted from bobbyt:

    it works just fine facing the pcbs

    Looks "dark" that way. Does this mean that unlike fluorescent tubes that emit light in all directions the replacement LED tubes have more of a directional light orientation?

    #34 9 years ago
    Quoted from RoyF:

    Looks "dark" that way. Does this mean that unlike fluorescent tubes that emit light in all directions the replacement LED tubes have more of a directional light orientation?

    Yes - they only face one way - usually "out" when installed the correct way.

    #35 9 years ago

    That particular bulb 240 degree, you can get 120 degree also

    #36 9 years ago
    Quoted from bobbyt:

    it works just fine facing the pcbs

    20150206_171841.jpg 191 KB

    I just did this on my Monopoly just to see. Lights right up with just the starter removed. It knocks down the glare on the glass from the backbox lighting for sure! It's a little on the super bright side facing out! Nice to have the option.

    #37 9 years ago

    Which bulb did you use?

    #38 9 years ago

    facing forward or back.. the AC being rectified by the bulb unit, polarity not a problem, same for 6.3v AC pf LED's. facing back something popped in as a reflector might be nice if not quite bright enough.
    (strip of coroplast? white foamboard?)

    #39 9 years ago
    #40 9 years ago

    I build LED strip lights for my sterns. About $20 in parts and it looks great. I can post details if people are interested.

    #41 9 years ago
    Quoted from dhalem:

    I build LED strip lights for my sterns. About $20 in parts and it looks great. I can post details if people are interested.

    Post a away

    #42 9 years ago

    can you post a pic of your bulb? would like to see how that one looks installed, thanks

    #43 9 years ago

    Bought the Suzo Happ bulb for my STLE and Mustang LE. 5 min install, just remove the starter and you're good to go. Also found some diffusers at Home Depot that worked great. Some before/after photos to follow.

    #44 9 years ago

    Before (Flourescent)

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    #45 9 years ago

    LED only (no diffuser)003.JPG003.JPG005.JPG005.JPG

    #46 9 years ago

    LED w/ Diffuser installed004.JPG004.JPG008.JPG008.JPG

    #47 9 years ago

    I'm using these one in my sterns, they work great. You replace the starter with the one included in the tube's package, install the led tube and you're good to go.

    http://www.lighting.philips.com/main/prof/oem/led-systems/led-tubes/corepro-ledtube/929000296932_EU/product

    #48 9 years ago
    Quoted from Jgaltr56:

    Bought the Suzo Happ bulb for my STLE and Mustang LE. 5 min install, just remove the starter and you're good to go. Also found some diffusers at Home Depot that worked great. Some before/after photos to follow.

    Which diffuser did you use?

    #49 9 years ago
    Quoted from Jgaltr56:

    Bought the Suzo Happ bulb for my STLE and Mustang LE. 5 min install, just remove the starter and you're good to go. Also found some diffusers at Home Depot that worked great. Some before/after photos to follow.

    looks great, thanks for posting

    #50 9 years ago
    Quoted from Liftserv:

    Which diffuser did you use?

    Home Depot had two different types on the shelf that fit. It was similar to this:
    http://t.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-14-Watt-1-Light-T5-Mini-Strip-Light-Diffuser-DMNS5-14D-R6/202192983/
    image.jpgimage.jpg

    One has a little more depth than the other so I bought one of each. Just used zip ties to keep them on. Both serve the purpose.

    Note: the photos I took with my iPhone exaggerate the brightness, it looks better to my eyes- more even.

    There are 56 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

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