Maybe this?

https://www.pinballlife.com/cool-white-pcb-led.html

Personally, I'd keep the lamp sockets in the game in order to give future game owners the option of what bulbs to use.

I purchased some of these to try in my valley strikes and spares. I had a lot of flickering but I assume if you had a new light board they would work fine?

I was hoping that since it had diode’s built-in that I would need a new light board

It does not look like that pinball life LED circuit board has the parallel resistor needed for Bally games.

The blank circuit board could be made for pennies but once you add in assembly I don't know if there would be any pricing competition against the normal LED lamps.

Anyone have the distance from screw hole to the center of lamp socket? I could figure it out but being lazy. Need to add diodes (and probably a cap) to use it in GI.

top
bot
top cop
bot cop

I made them and i was putting it on facebook , eric bartels is the name
Those are home made pcb with anti flickering for old bally pinball games

154F7784-0290-48E5-B83B-73A00FF347D0 (resized).jpeg

61B35D1C-302B-4592-857D-3165D4CC08BB (resized).jpeg

E7BF0173-97DB-4D3C-A238-A4A005992695 (resized).jpeg

You need resistors on old Bally's to get rid of the flicker, the diodes serve a different function. You can either add them yourself individually to the sockets (very cheap but time consuming) or add a daughter board of resistors to your existing lamp driver (easier than the former but still cheaper than an all new driver)

This pcb has the anti flickering resistor and has a warm white led , so no lampsocket needed and no expensive anti flickering kit or altek board
Just simply replace lamp and lampholder
Just a simple solution for every not experienced tech

More info fb. Eric bartels or dutch pinball professionals at instagram

Now they can be ordered at pinballprofessionals.nl

Seems neat to have a couple in the parts box, but it seems expensive to redo a whole game with those. $1.40 per insert lamp (plus labor) adds up quick compared to Comet's daughterboard solution. Also it wouldn't work for any controlled lamps above the playfield, like chase lamps on games like Eight Ball Deluxe.

Not expensive at all if you are planning to replace those crappy lamp holders anyway.

Comrep - do you have diodes on this module to prevent reverse voltage when used with 6.3VAC? Or are these for use with rectified lamp voltage only?

I believe that classic Stern/Bally lamps are already rectified - there are no negative voltages, as per BR1 on the rectifier board. I'm also not entirely sure SCRs would work with full-wave AC.

Yes - they are rectified for switched lamps. But just wanted to see what happens with GI - 6.3VAC.

They will be turned on (>?) 50% of time causing a nasty 60hz strobe effect like when you use a low end LED bulb without diodes in them on an AC supply. Not sure what the reverse blocking voltage is on those 5050 SMT LED beads commonly used on LED strips are.

Seems like they are purposed for Bally controlled lamp inserts only. GI lamps i think you want them poking up through the PF and so would not really be a good fit flush to the underside of the PF.

Peak reverse voltage on many LEDs is about 5V.
The reason I was asking about this was to see if it was strictly for use with switched lamps or will it work in both switched lamps or GI. Not that it matters much since most GI aren't under playfield mounted. Mainly just curiosity.

looks like a fantastic idea to me, especially for anyone doing a playfield swap. Keeping things original is a nice thought, but i'd prefer the reliability of a single board LED over the crappy lamp sockets. Even brand new sockets seem to go bad in short order these days. Kudos to Comrep.