I'm really glad you're happy with them. I've put a lot of work into them.

They were out of stock for a few days while waiting on a cable shipment, but they're back now.

Sega Whitestar can use the Stern LED OCD and GIzmo.

Older Sega games can use the Data East LED OCD. Some of them can use GIzmo, but it's on a case by case basis.

It depends on the game, LEDs, ambient lighting, etc. Ripley's in particular looked a lot better after tweaking, in my case. I am going to start adding some settings to the program archive, but they are more like samples than something you'll be able to directly apply.

A lot of the new games look great. Spike games, later SAM games, JJP, MMR all have good dimming of LEDs.

You can contact Comet Pinball about forwarding them to you. Pinball Spare Parts Australia also has some of them now.

GI OCD is. The 1kHz code with an option for 50Hz power is the new baseline.

There's LED OCD and GIzmo for Stern games. GIzmo is kinda like a dumbed down GI OCD.

The first small batch of Capcom are currently being built. I'd estimate mid to late January. I'm taking a cautious approach with them, so there won't be a lot of them in the first batch.

If you want to cover both the inserts and the GI, yes. Most people just go with the LED OCD (for inserts) and skip the GIzmo, though. Neither of them do anything for flashers.

That was quick! Go USPS!

In the past, Comet has allowed customers to buy from my website, have it shipped to them, then they forward it for a fee. If you talked to Art, however, maybe I need to stop advertising that.

Pinball Spare Parts Australia also has them available, but mainly on a trial basis, so they don't have many.
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/electronics/boards/ledocd.html

For the inserts on SM you would want LED OCD. GIzmo is only for the GI.

I haven't tried every LED that is out there, but in general, I'd say to avoid any "extra-special" bulbs. I've seen odd things happen with CT Premium, and NoFlix+ seem to be hit and miss. In these cases, it's just odd flickering, nothing that would cause any damage to the game, OCD, or bulbs. Regular non-ghosting are usually fine with very slightly higher minimum brightness.

I don't buy kits myself, but from what I understand, the CT kits are either standard bulbs or non-ghosting (if you pay for the upgrade). I'm pretty sure they're not putting Premium bulbs in the kits.

That's what the big zip tie in the kit is intended for. If you can find a spot to screw it down, your approach works well, too.

That's fairly common when B1 is set really low and you're viewing in the test mode. In game, it doesn't stay at B1 long enough to see it. You can increase B1 if it bothers you.

That's weird. I wonder what's causing that.

Technically, it wouldn't be too bad, but to make it accurately emulate what they would look like in a game, I'd need to generate 18V DC. Two 9V batteries would not be too bad, but they're not terribly practical. Plus, it would take time away from all the other stuff I'm trying to get done.

It doesn't look like it's there in the first video (default settings). It's very unlikely that the GI OCD would do anything to affect it, so it's most likely something due to the custom settings; maybe a bug in the firmware, who knows? If it's only visible in slow motion, it won't be a high priority to fix, unfortunately.

That's outside my skillset, but if someone else wants to take it on, I'd be glad to offer it as an option with all profit going to the designer. I wouldn't want to have to increase the price for those who are not as skittish about the holes, so I wouldn't really want to add it to the standard kit.

I don't have any direct experience with Rottendog boards, but looking at the schematics, the main difference between it and a stock WPC board is that the Rottendog uses MOSFETs to drive the lamp rows. That in itself should not be a problem, but it does change the timing a bit.

Yeah, let me know if you get ready to sell it.

Strings 4 and 5 are set to always on by default. This is to accomodate WPC95 games where there is no 4 and 5 control. They should be set to "Input 4" and "Input 5" when used in WPC89 games.

That is not the cause of SuperPinball's issue, though. SP, did you change those bulbs to LEDs? I see that you switched to LED, but I wanted to make sure the helmet lamps were included in what you switched over. If not, the fuse on the GI OCD is likely blown. The helmet lights use power from the GI, but they are controlled by an additional chase lamp board. That many incandescents pulling power through the GI OCD is more than it can handle.

If you DID switch the helmet lights to LED, I'm a bit stumped. You might need to increase the duty cycle of the string that powers those lamps. The documentation I have for BOP is a bit lacking in that I don't know how the GI power gets converted to be used by the lamps. The chase board is an array of transistors to GND, so the power almost certainly has to get converted to DC by the game.

Don't dissect too much before trying the duty cycle settings on the string that feeds the helmet lamps. That setup with the chase board is non-standard, and I haven't been able to test it myself. All information I have is second hand. If it turns out that it just doesn't work, I'll update the compatibility info on the website, and I can refund your purchase if you can't use the board.

Technically, you're increasing the time that the voltage is turned on. The voltage remains the same. When you measure it with a DMM, it's more of an average, but even that isn't technically true. If you increase the brightness through the software, the DMM will read a higher voltage.

Is there anything else on that string? If not, you probably want to set it to 100% so that the input to the helmet lamps is solid DC. I say probably because I don't really know what is between the GI string and the helmet lamps. I would guess that there is a bridge to convert the AC to DC so that it can be switched by the chase board. If that's the case, yes, setting the GI OCD to 100% would be your best bet.

They do, but from what is in the schematic, that only accounts for the return (ground) path. I can't find information on exactly how they get power.

Very cool. Are you working on this for yourself, or would you make these available to others?

That looks very nice. I'll send a PM regarding updates on the numbers.

You're not missing anything. It's just pictures of my son that I get tagged on and an occasional time when I like something pinball related.

I wish I could get them to you. It's complicated, but basically, I'm not allowed to ship direcly overseas or I would have to file a report for each shipment. This is separate from the standard customs forms.

I don't think so. The only issue with the clock is that if they're non-rectified LEDs, the direction matters. I'm pretty sure Ingo's clock uses rectified LEDs, and as a result they work fine.

No worries. I love the videos. ...and I'm sure you don't want a TOTAN, but I'd love to have that IM.

It just doesn't seem like your type of game; not challenging enough. Maybe I'm wrong.

I'm planning to move it out before RZ ships, and I had thought about doing it now and getting something new to play in the meantime. I know there are other IM machines in the area, but yours is extremely nice.

Everything's in stock now, and for about the past year, I've kept them in stock. Early on, I did sell out pretty regularly, but I've been able to keep up now that more of the assembly is done by outside vendors.

It might, but I don't have a schematic of what goes on between the power driver board and the helmet power input. If nothing else is on GI string 2, setting the GI OCD string 2 to 100% should help as suggested in this post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-ocd-im-sold/page/3#post-2897064

You do want to make sure you have LEDs in the helmet, though. Otherwise, you'll blow the string 2 fuse on the GI OCD.

At one point, Bill Ung was working on a replacement chase lamp board that would be compatible, but I haven't heard from him in a long time.

One option for a workaround would be to split the power from the transformer, run it to both the GI OCD and the power driver board, and use the power driver outputs (normal GI control) to feed the chase lamps. It would be similar to what Patofnaud did with his STTNG.

The 5050 SMD frosted are my goto bulb. I buy mine from Comet, but the other guys have their own 5050 bulb. Anything without the non-ghosting circuit will work best.

Same here, although recently, I'm liking the 2-SMD 2835 rather than the quads.

Thanks.

I'm pretty sure that's the first one to go to Singapore as well. Thanks to Comet Pinball for the assist.

How hot are the four bridge transistors getting? 10A 32V slow blow is correct. I could try sending you a replacement board in case there's something wrong with yours.

It's mainly just setting brightness levels, delays, etc. It's not designed to replace a PIG or anything like that.

The backglass is GI, so LED OCD will not help it, but GI OCD would.

What do you need done to it? If you're wanting customization, it's going to be really hard to get "right" if it's not in your game in your house.

If you just need defaults programmed, I could walk you through it, or even do it for you if you're completely uncomfortable with computers.

There is no special LOTR program. The defaults that ship on it are about the best that can be done without seeing it in a specific game in it's environment.

Having a Mac does make it more of a challenge. You would either need to run a VM type environment, try the web server software, or find a PC to use.

That sounds like a good description to me.

The difference is negligible. The boards themselves do use a little bit of power, but it is minuscule compared to how much power the lamps themselves use. The boards also pull their power from the same source as the lamps, so it's not like you're adding extra load on your already stressed 12V source.

On default settings, the lamps are very slightly dimmer and will use a small amount less power, so that also offsets the power used by the board.