Hey Herg, since the thread got bumped I noticed that, for BBB, at one time you need to know how much space there is between the bracket that holds the fluorescent light and the metal backplate. Do you still need to know this?
I happened to have my BBB pulled out this week and had to get into the backbox where I was reminded about how the fit of the LED OCD board semi-interferes with the light. I'd be happy to pull it back out and get that info.
For myself, when I installed the new lamp board I simply didn't tighten the bracket holding the light back down. The bracket is slotted so it's hanging on via the smaller-end of the slot so it can't fall off.
Quoted from jake35:I still need to zip tie the cables, but does this look correct Herg?[quoted image]
First, I'd recommend getting the standoffs installed across the left side. If the board gets pressed on, they will prevent it shorting against the metal plate.
Second, I can't really see the power and ground connections all that well.
Quoted from herg:First, I'd recommend getting the standoffs installed across the left side. If the board gets pressed on, they will prevent it shorting against the metal plate.
Second, I can't really see the power and ground connections all that well.
thanks, I'll get a photo of those and post them up. I believe I have those correct but appreciate the assistance.
The LEDs are operating correctly and the board has them non-flickering (looks great), except for the backbox lights that aren't coming on (flashers are working in the backbox, just not the reg LEDs) and the right upper side isn't lighting up. I'm reseating the cables and looking up the schematics to see where the issue may be.
It appears D2 is not lighting up on LED board, but D1 and D3 are solid as they should be. The other two are blinking slowly as they should.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:might be interested in one of these also, herg
They're in stock, available from my website.
http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=21
Quoted from herg:They're in stock, available from my website.
http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=21
I’d be interested in this when you have enough demand to make more. Thanks!
I've been considering what to do with these. I don't sell many, and a batch sits on the shelves, tying up money. If I buy a smaller batch, my cost rises sharply. I also don't have much free time to test and to package the cables. I don't want to permanently discontinue them, but I don't have a good plan for them, either.
Don't get your hopes too high for Breakshot. The existing board might actually work, but half of it would remain completely unused. It would not be cost efficient. I don't have a Breakshot to test in, and I'm really not motivated to develop for what is essentially a new system that includes just one game.
Quoted from herg:Don't get your hopes too high for Breakshot. The existing board might actually work, but half of it would remain completely unused. It would not be cost efficient. I don't have a Breakshot to test in, and I'm really not motivated to develop for what is essentially a new system that includes just one game.
Rich had one locally - can see if he still has it (it was on location at Mustang Sally's before covid)
Quoted from herg:Don't get your hopes too high for Breakshot. The existing board might actually work, but half of it would remain completely unused. It would not be cost efficient.
If the existing board works, I don't think anyone would care if half of it was unused for Breakshot. Of course if you had to modify it, I can see where it wouldn't be worth your time.
I just wanted to let you Capcom owners know that you talked me into building some more, and they're on the website now. Still nothing for Breakshot, though. Sorry.
I've just realised that my Airborne B row is not working. When I first installed it wasnt working at all and I realised the fuse was blown. After replacing the fuse the red led stays lit and the "B" row comes on but its as if the ledocd board is not working on that row. Flickering and some inserts staying on.
I responded via email. In short, a blown fuse either means a problem with the game, installation, or possibly the bulbs. The choice of bulbs can sometimes legitimately add up to over 4A if you use really bright ones. Non-ghosting are not recommended. More tests are needed to determine if matrix B now has either column or row transistors that have been damaged.
Quoted from Hashman:Is there any particular leds i should be using? Just installed into my airborne but still getting flickering in the GI. Especially on the right hand side under the ramp. I think I am using non ghosting leds in there.
If you have any incandescent bulbs in the machine, it will blow fuses immediately. They all have to be led including ones in the head.
Quoted from jake35:If you have any incandescent bulbs in the machine, it will blow fuses immediately. They all have to be led including ones in the head.
Dont know if tgats and Airborne thing but def not true for my Pinball Magic
Quoted from TheLaw:Dont know if tgats and Airborne thing but def not true for my Pinball Magic
not sure, but it was an issue on my Airborne. I had cointaker LEDs in the entire machine except the head and it popped a small fuse on the OCD board as soon as powered up. Replaced them with LEDs and never had another issue. I had messaged Herg about it and he knew right away what probably was the cause and asked me if I had replaced all of the incandescents in the entire machine.
Quoted from jake35:not sure, but it was an issue on my Airborne. I had cointaker LEDs in the entire machine except the head and it popped a small fuse on the OCD board as soon as powered up. Replaced them with LEDs and never had another issue. I had messaged Herg about it and he knew right away what probably was the cause and asked me if I had replaced all of the incandescents in the entire machine.
Weird! I only know because the purple inserts with LEDs never looked good; so left mine incandescent.
Quoted from TheLaw:Weird! I only know because the purple inserts with LEDs never looked good; so left mine incandescent.
definitely odd. Capcoms seem to be unique for sure. I have a Big Bang Bar that has the LED OCD board and it is grerat with LEDs, never had an issue with it either.
The fuse, LED, incandescent thing depends on the total of the installed bulbs. If the LEDs are lower current ones, you can likely get away with having some incandescent installed. I've seen a few cases where especially power hungry LEDs have been too much for the default fuse, even with no incandescent installed. When people start installing LED strips, all bets are off.
Quoted from herg:... When people start installing LED strips, all bets are off.
Gross!
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