(Topic ID: 29684)

FS: LED OCD - Eliminate LED flicker/strobe/ghost - Control brightness


By herg

7 years ago



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    #1 7 years ago

    LED OCD is an add-on lamp controller that solves the following problems when using LEDs in pinball machines.

    - Eliminate the flicker or strobe effect when using LEDs in a pinball machine. This is accomplished by increasing the lamp matrix scan rate.
    - Allow brightness to be controlled. "Profiles" are configured to define the on-time of lamps, effectively controlling the brightness.
    - Simulate the fade on/off of incandescent lamps. By gradually changing the brightness of the bulbs, LEDs are made to fade on/off instead of their typical abrupt changes.
    - Allow ghosting to be completely eliminated through a combination of additional hardware and improved transistor control.

    Some videos are linked below.

    It currently works with Williams WPC, Williams System 11, Stern, and Data East machines.

    For more information, visit the website:
    http://ledocd.com

    If you want to be put on the waiting list to purchase one, please send a pre-order request through the website purchase page. As much as I love Pinside, PMs are just too hard to manage.



    #2 7 years ago

    Here's a couple of pictures of the finished boards:

    IMG_4448.JPG IMG_4100_2.JPG

    Also, if you're interested in reading some of the development history, that thread's here:
    http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-current-project-led-lamp-controller

    #4 7 years ago

    Thanks, Dan.

    I rarely used LEDs before developing the board. LEDs are a bit of a mixed bag, but used properly, they look great, IMO.

    Some of the boards should be arriving at their destination today. I can't explain it, but I'm more excited about that than I was the day my Tron arrived.

    #5 7 years ago

    The Southern Pinball Festival (http://www.southernpinballfestival.com/) is being held this weekend. If you're able, I highly suggest attending. You'll have a great time, and if you want, you can see LED OCD in person. PT is planning to bring his No Fear with LED OCD installed to the show.

    Some of the first batch have arrived at their new homes. If anyone has installed one and would like to share any comments/complaints, I'd like to hear them. I'd like to know if people are happy with these before building more.

    The remainder of the first batch has been built, and once they're tested, I'll be contacting the next names on the list.

    Finally, I have one in my Tron (Pro), and it's very close to finished. I have not yet looked into the list of other Stern machines that this will support. It certainly will NOT be useful with the newer machines that have LED boards with serial control, but I believe it will work with the rest.

    1 week later
    #11 7 years ago

    Thanks. The effect starting at 0:30 is what I feel is most indicative of what it can do. It looks terrible with stock LEDs.

    I'd really like to see what it does with games with dimmed inserts. Spider-Man villains for instance.

    #16 7 years ago
    Quoted from thePLAyNone:

    Thanks for bringing the No Fear to SPF

    PT deserves the thanks for that. All I did was send him the board. It was his machine, he installed and configured the board, and he transported the game.

    Quoted from DrStarkweather:

    Super interested in this, but I realized the software is Microsoft only? I only have macs. Maybe I'll have one of my companies programmers take a look and see if they can find me a solution...

    If this is confirmed, it would be great. Especially for my LOTR, which needs this the most.

    The configuration software is currently for Windows only, but the interface is simply a USB UART, and drivers are available for MacOS, Linux, etc. If anyone is truly interested, I'd be willing to work with them to document the protocol.

    Also, once it's configured, you don't need the PC unless you want to change settings.

    I'd love to be able to test in more machines, including Whitestar, System11 and older, Data East, etc, but since I don't own any, I have to rely on others.

    2 weeks later
    #21 7 years ago

    Here's a new video of DCFAN's Spider-Man both before and after installing an OCD board. This required some experimentation to figure out what each brightness level in the machine translated to in terms of LED OCD configuration levels. In the near future, I will try to put together an explanation of what we did. For now, enjoy:

    #22 7 years ago

    OK, let's see if I can describe this properly.

    First, the machine had a full treatment of Ablaze Ghostbuster LEDs. They have additional circuitry in them to prevent them from turning on in low current and/or short pulse conditions. This also causes them to not turn on when set to low brightness settings with LED OCD. It's the same with CT Premium bulbs.

    When we first added the OCD board, and turned the machine on, attract mode was not very impressive. By default, the bulbs are set for the following brightness ramp:
    10 20 30 40 50 60 70 85

    Testing them using the manual test method described on the LED OCD webpage, however showed that the lamps did not turn on at all until about 22%, and were flickery up to about 40%. This caused the default settings to be rough and flickery since the low end brightness values did not work well with the GB LEDs. I changed the ramp to:
    40 46 52 59 65 72 78 85

    This was much better, but a bit dim, so I increased the top end of the brightness ramp making it:
    40 48 57 65 74 82 91 100

    Short of a few bulbs that could still be brighter, attract mode now looked pretty good. Remember these were Ablaze GB, and brightness is really not their strong point.

    Once we started lighting the Villain inserts, there was still some mild flicker. I needed to find out which output brightness levels were being used for each of the Villain mode levels. With Green Goblin at level 1, I checked the Advanced checkbox in the configuration software and changed the LED OCD ramp to:
    100 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

    Since this didn't light at all, I knew B1 was not being used at all at level 1. Changed to:
    0 100 0 0 0 0 0 0

    This caused the lamp to flicker, so B2 *is* being used at level 1. I continued this process to map which output levels were used at level 1. We advanced GG to level 2, repeated the process, ... Finally, we had the following mapping:
    Villain Level 0 - Off
    Villain Level 1 - B2 & B3
    Villain Level 2 - B5 & B6
    Villain Level 3 - B8

    In order to have a dimly lit Villain insert be steady, the B2/B3 pair needed to set to the same value, as well as the B5/B6 pair. I changed the ramp to:
    40 48 48 60 75 75 90 100

    The flicker in the Villain inserts was gone, but you really couldn't tell a difference between a dimly lit (Level 1) and fully lit (Level 3) insert. I played with it some, but there wasn't much I could do. The low end being limited to a minimum of 40% really limited what I was able to do. This same ramp turned out to be appropriate to avoid strobing on the 2X bonus white arrow insert.

    We also put a couple of Ablaze 3-LED bulbs in Green Goblin and Doc Ock, and I was able to reduce the low end to 10% without flicker. This allowed me more flexibility in separating the brightness of each mode level, but you'd still be hard pressed to tell between Level 2 and Level 3.

    In summary:
    LED OCD can be used to eliminate the flicker caused by progressive dimming with LEDs.
    The process to fully configure it can be a bit involved, but once a game it figured out, applying it to different bulbs is trivial.
    The progressive dimming effect, even when it's not flickering, is not terribly useful.

    #23 7 years ago

    If anyone is hesitant about waiting on a pre-order list, I've caught up on the Stern SAM ones, and I have a few in stock now. I should be through the end of the WPC list by next week.

    Also, if anyone who has bought these has any comments, please let me know. I have to assume that everyone is happy with them unless I hear otherwise. Feedback is the best way to know what I can improve.

    #25 7 years ago

    It's kinda funny. I saw a huge jump in video views and had no idea where they were coming from. I didn't realize PinballHead had such a large audience.

    #33 7 years ago

    Yeah, for use with premiums, I would at a minimum change the low end brightness to around 40%.

    #40 7 years ago
    Quoted from DrStarkweather:

    It will not
    I was wanting the same thing. Herg had mentioned if he got some time he might work on a command line port, but a GUI seems unlikely. He suggested virtualization software like VMware.

    VMware may be worth trying as an intermediate solution. Obviously, something that runs natively on Mac and Linux would be better. Unfortunately, GUI work is not my strong suit, and I don't have access to a Mac. I could probably stumble through a Java GUI, but with everything that I have going on now, I'm not terribly motivated. I would, however, be willing to work with anyone who does have the motivation to define the interface. Drivers are available for other platforms, and it's simply a bunch of short messages sent over a USB COM port.

    Quoted from gweempose:

    My entire Avatar was done with standard Cointaker super brights. Are these a good LED to work with, herg?

    Super brights do work very well. Pretty much any LED without anti-ghosting features will work better than those with. Isn't that ironic? What happens is that the short pulses that are necessary to do low brightness levels get squashed by the anti-ghosting feature in the fancy bulbs.

    Super brights and retro (SB with a dome), I use very sparingly since to me, they are too bright, and they are more expensive than the CT Frosted and AB 3-LED. I do use cool white retro in my Tron disks because you can see the bulb. I set them to 20% max brightness, though.

    #42 7 years ago

    That's true. If you don't factor money, you certainly do have more range with them. I probably like mine dimmer than many others, and I rarely need more brightness than a CT Frosted or AB 3 provides, so my approach is to go cheap, then replace with brighter where necessary.

    The one very minor nitpick is that at the low end (B1), if you have to set them to 6% to avoid flicker (typical), dimmer bulbs will allow you a dimmer minimum brightness. This makes the transition from OFF to B1 slightly smoother. Again, this is a very minor issue, and probably proves I do have OCD.

    A machine full of supers will be a great starting point, and it will be very unlikely you'll need to change anything.

    #46 7 years ago

    Zdoor,

    Thanks for the feedback. At first when I read your comment about shooter lane controlled GI, I thought it may be a placebo effect, since GI aren't affect by OCD. After looking at the manual, however, I see there are 9 lamps on the matrix next to the shooter lane.

    3 weeks later
    #47 6 years ago

    A few updates:

    This evening, I used VMWare to run the configuration software on a Linux box. There's no reason I can think of that it would not work for Mac as well.

    I have tested successfully with both System 11 (BK2K) and Stern Whitestar (LOTR SE).

    I have decided that building the boards by hand is too much work, and I have identified a source for assembly. However, the number of pre-orders I currently have is not enough to make the minimum order worthwhile. I'd also like to get a little more feedback before investing in a bunch of assembled boards. I'll have to work through this before any more kits are available.

    1 week later
    #50 6 years ago

    Thanks for the feedback, and I'm glad to hear you like it. I'm all about trying to make things "less obnoxious."

    Which cables, and how much longer? I will try to address it if / when I make more. I don't want to make them too long and have to deal with a wad of wire, though.

    2 weeks later
    #52 6 years ago

    Just a quick update. I've pulled the trigger on another batch of these, and I should have them ready to ship by mid-March. About 60% of them are currently accounted for with the pre-orders I already have.

    Quoted from DrStarkweather:

    specifically it was the 20pin connector one.

    I'm adding 3 inches to the cable length in this run. Thanks for the feedback.

    #55 6 years ago
    Quoted from gjbwalker:

    How's the System 11 coming along?

    It has been successfully tested in a BK2K, and your pre-order is one of the ones that should be ready mid-March.

    #59 6 years ago

    BDillon, I've added you for another Stern.

    Anyone else that wants added can go to http://herg.homeip.net/ledocd/purchase.html. The waiting list is automated, and it will timestamp your request so that I know what order to contact you.

    1 week later
    #60 6 years ago

    Yesterday, gjbwalker installed a kit in his Data East TFTC, so that's one more boardset that has been confirmed working. Thanks for the help!

    I'm in the process of building cables, and the board manufacturer is working on the boards for the next batch of kits.

    #67 6 years ago
    Quoted from Zdoor:

    Posted this in a separate thread but here is some video of Hergs board in a LOTR LE. Softens the LEDs quite a bit IMO.
    http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?feature=plcp&v=plGBHuK66iE

    It was probably my fault, but it took me a few minutes to figure out how to watch the video using that link. This one works better for me. Thanks for taking the time to make the video and mentioning it here. It's great to see the results people are getting.

    #68 6 years ago
    Quoted from Gorgar1:

    Dam your out of stock on the web and I want one for tron

    Yes, it is VERY rare that I will have these in stock. I'm an Engineer by day, and this is just a hobby. Having a bunch sitting around would be too expensive. If you want one, send a pre-order request. I don't ask for any money until I'm ready to ship. I'm expecting to be ready to ship a bunch mid-March.

    #71 6 years ago

    It's not so much that LED OCD doesn't look good in TZ, it's more that I like the yellowish glow of incandescents in it. Even warm white LEDs are a little more cool in color than I'd prefer in TZ.

    If you like the colors of LEDs in TZ, but you want them react more smoothly, rest assured that LED OCD works great with it.

    #78 6 years ago
    Quoted from Frax:

    It's a net loss. I did the math, but over time it will become LESS of a loss as you replace any LEDs that might die. There's about a 50-60$ difference between using single LED flattops from PBL and supers from CT for most games. I agree that if you're getting an OCD board, there's absolutely no reason to buy "premium" leds unless they have a color or lighting characteristic you like more. Flexibility in choosing your leds is through the roof.
    I was a little surprised when I did the math, but then I remembered that it doesn't affect things like the GI lights... and for me, GI lighting and backbox is a LOT of bulbs. You still need premiums on those if the 60hz strobe bugs you. It drives me nuts.

    True. I use CT Frosted more than anything else, and the difference between a Frosted Premium and standard Frosted is $0.80. Say 80 insert bulbs in a loaded Stern, and you're in the $60 range. If you're going for lowest cost, though, I'm sure incandescent would win mathematically. That's not the only reason to use OCD, though.

    #83 6 years ago

    If I had a machine that was already decked out in Premiums, I'd at least try OCD with them before replacing all of them. That is, unless you have another use for the Premium bulbs.

    There are default settings, but they are a "best guess" that cannot take the particular machine, bulbs, etc. into account. It should look pretty good with the default settings, but will probably look better if you take the time to experiment. I'm happy to help suggest changes given information about a specific game/lamp combination, and I'm hoping that one day, other users will be able to share their experience.

    #87 6 years ago

    Yeah, it would be interesting. I honestly do not know how they'd react. In my opinion, it would be more of an experiment than a real usage case, though. The cost of NoFlix Plus with OCD added on top would be pretty steep.

    2 weeks later
    #89 6 years ago

    Cables are done! That was a LOT of work, but luckily, I had some child labor to help in the process.

    // Error: Image 80991 not found // // Error: Image 80990 not found //

    Actually, 35 sets of cables are built, based on the preorders when I placed my orders for parts. Now, there are very close to 50 preorders, so I will need to order more parts once I get a better idea of what I still need. I ordered 50 boards.

    Boards should be here this week, according to the estimate from the fab house. I sent them a request for an update this morning.

    Once I have boards, I will have to do final assembly, testing, and packaging. Assuming all goes well, they should be shipping no later than the last week of this month.

    #90 6 years ago

    Pictures didn't upload the first time.

    2 weeks later
    #92 6 years ago

    Just in case anyone is interested, I've shipped a bunch of these in the past week. The Stern ones are all spoken for, and I think I'll have a couple of WPC ones left once I get more parts and work through the rest of the preorders.

    I have a few Sys11/DE ones that could ship now if anyone is interested in those.

    #95 6 years ago
    Quoted from MadPole:

    Looks like mine is on the way....

    Yours should be there Friday.

    Quoted from Crash:

    Once this really gets out there I think Robin should add functionality to the site where you can upload your own LED OCD configuration files

    As cool as that sounds, I don't think it's very practical. An example of why:

    I have a HS2 that I LED'd and OCD'd. I think it looks great. For Christmas, I gave my brother an OCD board for his HS2 and the exact same selection of LEDs along with a map of where to use them. He installed all the stuff, but never got around to hooking up a PC and tweaking the settings. He said he was really happy with the way they looked without any adjustments.

    I finally visited him a couple weeks ago, and while I was there, I was surprised at how good the default settings looked. We did finally hook up a PC and try some different settings here and there, but we settled back on the default settings for all the LEDs.

    Same game, same LEDs, same PERSON even, but different settings. I'm not sure if it's the room lighting difference, the condition of his inserts, or what, but it needed different settings.

    #97 6 years ago

    Good point. I do think it would be very useful to discuss techniques used to get the best results, and in some cases that could be used from one game to the next. I don't know the lighting on IM well enough to say that the SM procedure could be applied, but maybe.

    As it stands, the only way to capture the settings is with screenshots. As time allows, writing the settings to a file would probably be useful. Applying them directly may not really work well, but maybe they would be useful to share ideas, or even to use as backups for your own games. I haven't done it yet since the time to write the code was better spent elsewhere.

    #99 6 years ago

    Unfortunately, no. The TZ clock lighting is not part of the lamp matrix.

    #102 6 years ago

    Not an option. The LEDs he's talking about are not standard socketed bulbs. LED.jpg

    There is a comment on these about needing a capacitor for the rainbow ones. I wonder if the same capacitor on the solid colored ones would smooth the flicker.
    board_with_rainbow_fluxxies.jpg

    #105 6 years ago

    I replaced the bulbs on my original clock board with LEDs a long time ago, but if I remember correctly, they are 6.3V bulbs, so theoretically, you could use standard bulbs if they physically fit. I just read this on Ingo's website, though:

    "Fully rectified GI-voltage with a bridge rectifier for absolute flicker-free lightning of the Super-Flux LEDs."

    Based on that, CT Frosted or another standard AC bulb would not be any better. Maybe a premium of some sort, but part of the attraction to Ingo's board is that it's a drop in replacement.

    Slaymetender, if you go into the diagnostics and test GI, do you see flicker at brightness 8? If not, but you do other times, it's probably due to GI dimming. In that case, you could try disabling GI dimming in the adjustments.

    #109 6 years ago
    Quoted from Kneissl:

    I just got one of these wired up to my Sorcerer.. This thing eliminates all the downsides to controlled leds. I'm a huge fan.

    Have you fired it up yet? I'm really interested in your results since it's the first System9 it has been installed in.

    Quoted from SDobek:

    Hi Herg - did you still have plans to sell just the boards and let people build their own harnesses? Seems like a ton of work on your end having you assemble all of them.

    Yeah, if you're interested, we could work something out. The downside to this is that a lot of the parts are tough to get in small quantities (unless you use crimp and stuff connectors). I have also put a good bit of time into tooling to make them easier. I have jigs for measuring and cutting the wires, holding the connectors while I punch down the wires, etc. I have dramatically reduced the required assembly time, and it currently accounts for about $15 of the final cost.

    #116 6 years ago

    As DrStarkweather says, LED OCD is only for the lamp matrix, not the GI. I still use incandescent bulbs in my GI other than a few here and there. In most cases, I even pull some of them out of the backbox so I get less glare off the playfield glass.

    To do the GI the way I would want to, it would take a good bit of big hardware. To be honest, I already have my hands full with just the LED OCD work, my day job, and my 1 year old son.

    1 week later
    #118 6 years ago

    There are installation instructions with pictures on my website.
    http://herg.homeip.net/ledocd/install.html

    I personally think it's very easy, but I've installed them hundreds of times, so I've had a lot of practice. Everything is cables with connectors. There is no soldering or hacking involved. You don't have to do any of the tweaking using a PC if you don't want to.

    2 weeks later
    #120 6 years ago

    I have 1 WPC kit and 1 Sys11 kit left. If anyone wants either, I'll be in Allentown Saturday. The price at the show will be $140. No booth, just walking around.

    PM me for a phone number or look for a blue polo shirt, white/black stripes and a 1yr old boy.

    #121 6 years ago

    Both have been claimed. Thanks, guys.

    #123 6 years ago

    Bill,

    That's great to hear.

    As for others buying them, they're all gone until I have another batch made. Right now, I don't have enough interest to make more. If anyone wants one, please send me a preorder request, and I'll make more once the list is long enough.

    1 month later
    #124 6 years ago

    I've pulled the trigger on a new batch of LED OCD boards, and they should be available late July. This batch will include Stern kits only, no WPC/Sys11/DE kits will be made.

    These kits use a newly designed PCB that simplifies both the cable assembly and installation. As a result, my cost to build them is lower, and I am going to lower the price of the Stern kits to $129. Functionally, they are exactly the same as the old design. If you would like to be notified when they are ready to purchase, please send a pre-order request here:
    http://herg.homeip.net/ledocd/preorder.html

    I have a preliminary set of installation instructions on the website that will let you see how much easier these are to install than the previous design.
    http://herg.homeip.net/ledocd/install_whitestar_r3.html

    2 weeks later
    #127 6 years ago

    For those who would like to be able to export/import/share settings, I've added support to the configuration tool (v1.2.1). It's available on the website.

    http://herg.homeip.net/ledocd/

    #129 6 years ago
    Quoted from Frax:

    Anyone got a WPC one they decided they don't want?

    You missed that by a month as well.

    http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-new-ledocd-board-wpc95

    Once I can recoup some of the money I spent on this Stern build, I will probably be building a batch of the WPC/Sys11/DE ones. I use pre-orders to gauge interest, and I'm a few short of being able to break even on a batch of them.

    1 week later
    #131 6 years ago

    The new batch of Stern kits are now available for purchase on the website:

    http://herg.homeip.net/ledocd/

    Here's a couple pictures that I took during the QA testing. I just thought it was kinda cool, and this is only a fraction of the boards from this run.

    IMG_7432.JPG IMG_7433.JPG

    #132 6 years ago

    BUMP for the night crowd.

    #134 6 years ago

    That space should be filled soon enough. It does make it easy to get in there and test boards in the meantime, though.

    1 week later
    #136 6 years ago

    I'm glad you like it, and thanks for the feedback.

    There's still plenty of these available.

    #145 6 years ago
    Quoted from btw75:

    I installed mine in an DE LAH today - MASSIVE IMPROVEMENT (elimination!) with regard to ghosting- just out of the box. Haven't even tried to optimize it. I'll be ordering some LEDs for my just acquired tron then installing the stern version soon. Thanks!

    Great! I'm glad you're pleased with it.

    Quoted from DCFAN:

    From my experience, the LED controller will work with no-ghost LEDs just as well as with regular LEDs.

    As long as it's properly configured, the difference is minimal, but the no ghost bulbs do limit the minimum brightness you can use. It still looks a lot better with the board than without.

    Quoted from Nexyss:

    I haven't seen this thread until now, but I am definitely interested if you do another round of the other boards. I have a STTNG that still needs LEDs, and I will have a GnR that has LEDs by next month. Has anyone tried this on GnR yet?
    Once I get the GnR in the gameroom, I will see if the flicker is an issue. I burned the non ghosting rom for STTNG, and it seems to really eliminate the ghosting in the few LED tests I have done. I haven't tested enough to know the fading on that game though.
    Are you fairly close to the pre order level for the non Stern boards?

    I guess I fail at marketing.

    It's a judgement call on when I'm ready to make non Stern ones, but I am fairly close to the number of preorders. That said, I've had a lot of Stern preorders decline to order this time through. Maybe it's just because of the summer lull.

    #152 6 years ago
    Quoted from Baiter:

    How well does the board work with a mix of LED and incandescent?

    Quoted from DCFAN:

    I believe Herg may have it set up that way in his LOTR. I am sure he will chime in either tonight or early tomorrow morning.

    DCFAN is right, I do have a mix of incandescent and LED in my LOTR. The white and yellow inserts are incandescent, while the red, orange, and green inserts are LED. I think it looks great and keeps the charm of the "goldish" white incandescent bulbs. LOTR just looks too sterile with white LEDs in my opinion. The LEDs under the colored inserts gives them a bit more pop while reducing the heat and power draw of the game, and the OCD board keeps the LEDs from flickering like mad as well as allowing me to dim them to match the light output of the incandescent bulbs.

    I also have one of Jay's "projected eye" Palantir mods, and since it is lit by an LED, it normally flickers. The OCD board smooths this out as well.

    DCFAN has played my LOTR, so maybe he has a less biased opinion on how it looks and works.

    Quoted from Aurich:

    The thread title is super obscure, I've read it before and still couldn't remember what it was before I clicked through again tonight.

    Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

    I missed this originally, but am glad I found this thread. I would love LED's if they were not so harsh and "strobey". This might be just the thing!
    Chris

    Hmmm... I'm not really sure how to make it more obvious without feeling like I'm being pushy with it. I'll occasionally mention it in another thread if it fits the discussion, but I try to not spam the forums with it. I feel like there's a fine line between helping people who want to make their machines look better and cramming it in people's faces until they get sick of hearing about it. If you have ideas that could improve the thread topic without being preachy, I'm all ears.

    Quoted from PINBELL:

    Will you be demonstrating these at Expo?

    I don't plan to. I'd love to go, but I have an 18 month old son that would make something like that pretty difficult, especially since you really need at least one machine to be able to demo it properly. PT had one in a No Fear at Southern Pinball Festival back in November. I've also talked with a couple of other people about having one at various other shows, but it hasn't quite worked out.

    #154 6 years ago
    Quoted from Crash:

    Is there a limit to how many incandescents you can use with the board since they draw much more power?

    The board is designed to handle the draw of a machine full of incandescents, though you would be putting a little more stress on the connectors. It's not as big a deal with the lamp matrix as it would be with GI since the GI connectors are notoriously overloaded to begin with.

    Using it without adding a good number of LEDs would be a bit silly, however.

    #156 6 years ago

    Avatar LE is still using the lamp matrix, correct? The newer LE/Premium games with LEDs pre-installed are not compatible, but if I remember correctly, Avatar LE was prior to the change.

    #159 6 years ago

    Isn't TPF a spring show? That would give us plenty of time to plan it.

    I've seen a number of non-Stern pre-orders come recently, so I'm going to go ahead with another run of those. I would estimate early September for them to be ready.

    #165 6 years ago

    Sorry, but I don't have any plans for Stern LE machines. They use a completely different interface, so there wouldn't be much if any design reuse.

    2 weeks later
    #166 6 years ago

    I just wanted to share a video that a friend created. Thanks, akm.

    #173 6 years ago

    A slow motion camera would definitely be able to show the difference better. The output from LED OCD is running at 250 Hz, so there's no way a 30 fps (or even 60 fps) video is going to show it properly. In super slow motion, however, your persistence of vision would not be able to "connect the dots", so both with and without OCD are probably going to look flickery. At a minimum, it would be cool to see.

    Unfortunately, I think the only way to truly experience it is to see it in person.

    #175 6 years ago

    Yes, I have done specific testing on a Spider-Man, and there's a video and description of the process to configure the board earlier in this thread:

    http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-ocd-advanced-lamp-controller-shipping-with-wait-list#post-535458

    Of course, as mentioned in the past few posts, video doesn't really adequately capture what it looks like in person, but it should give you the basic idea.

    1 week later
    #178 6 years ago
    Quoted from Baiter:

    I want to know how yours turns out. Unlike SM I think LOTR looks better with slightly yellow lighting to match all the brass hardware... fortunately there are LEDs that would do the trick, but I haven't yet seen anyone put LEDs in a LOTR that does it justice by retaining all the gold twinkling organic lighting that incadescents give it.

    If you find white LEDs that look good in LOTR, I'd like to know as well. Mine is a bit of a hybrid; half LED and half incandescent because I didn't like the color that even warm white LEDs gave. There are certain effects in LOTR that have an odd flicker even with incandescent bulbs, especially the shooter lane progression. The OCD board was able to smooth out all of the effects and make the LED/incandescent hybrid seamless, but it's still a little dim due to the incandescents.

    #180 6 years ago

    No, I don't currently have any Nifty Retro bulbs. I have Nifty WW Frosted and CT WW Retro, though. I wonder how those compare.

    #182 6 years ago

    I forgot that I also have some PinballBulbs Frosted, which are basically the same type emitter as a Retro. I think I might need to get some of the Nifty Retro, then go through a round of tests to see if I can find something I like in LOTR's clear inserts. Thanks for the tip.

    #185 6 years ago
    Quoted from Frankenator:

    What's the best way to run the .net framework successfully on Mountain Lion 10.8.4 for your program in particular

    I don't own a Mac myself, and haven't done any specific testing myself. I have used the software with VMWare on a Ubuntu host, and the same should be possible on a Mac. Other users have mentioned Boot Camp, but I have no direct experience with it.

    The best solution long term would be to write a native Mac (or even Java) client. Communications are provided by a FTDI FT232 USB-to-serial converter, and drivers are available. From there, it would be as simple as an application that talks to the serial port using the OCD communications protocol. I don't have the resources to do this, but I would be willing to support anyone who has the motivation.

    Quoted from Gundam_Pilot_:

    I highly doubt this is going to happen, but is there any lpossibility down the line for Gottlieb system 3/80 versions?

    Since they're not using a lamp matrix (as far as I know), the current design will not work. It would nearly be a ground up redesign, and I don't really have any plans to do so. I won't say never, though.

    #190 6 years ago
    Quoted from Kneissl:

    do you have any sys 11 or wpc wiring harnesses ?

    I'm currently building a bunch, but they're planned for the batch of boards I have coming in. Once I get closer to having them built, I can give you a better idea of what parts I have left over. If I have parts, I could put a few together. If you don't mind, send me an email as a reminder and to let me know how many of each you would want.

    #193 6 years ago

    Yeah, the data file parsing is not really flexible, and if I run out of other things to do, I'll work on improving it. You can use Excel, but certain things will cause the file to fail; special characters, single digit lamp numbers, etc. Using a text editor makes it easier to avoid these... or just ask me.

    The passthrough mode is already in the Williams/Data East firmware, but is not possible with the Stern design. The OCD hardware is obviously still in the circuit, but it drives the outputs exactly like the inputs. It's not exactly like no board, but it's close. It's also a feature that's more for fun than actually being useful.

    #196 6 years ago

    Could you guys who are having problems with data files please send them to me? I'll try to take a look at them soon, and maybe a quick software update could really improve things.

    Oh, and if you have created new data files that work well, please send those as well. Eventually, the software will include files for every game, and there will be no need to create new ones.

    #198 6 years ago
    Quoted from herg:

    No, I don't currently have any Nifty Retro bulbs. I have Nifty WW Frosted and CT WW Retro, though. I wonder how those compare.

    Well, I tried the CT WW Retro in LOTR today, and they're the best I've seen, but they're still way too clean looking. I went back to incandescent in the clear inserts.

    #200 6 years ago

    Tad already has three installed, and I think that's all of his Stern machines that it will work in. I think I have a WPC one that I keep in case someone needs a replacement, so as long as he's OK with it, we could install it.

    #207 6 years ago
    Quoted from DCFAN:

    I am tempted to give that a tilt. LOL

    I wish you would have! My great grandmother was full blooded German, so I'm at least 12%, and I feel no particular affinity for Hasselhoff.

    Quoted from Mudflaps:

    Well shit, if he already has three installed, I'll take a look!

    I wasn't sure if you wanted to see the install process or just the results. Also, one cool thing we can do in a WPC is use the passthrough mode to toggle between normal signalling and OCD signalling. Anyway, I'll bring it, and we can decide if it's worth the effort.

    #210 6 years ago
    Quoted from Frax:

    I can't wait for some more WPC boards to get made. Now that I have a TZ and a STTNG back....yeah.

    I just got an email from the PCB assemblers saying they are ready to ship to me. I'd estimate that I can start shipping them out by the end of the week.

    Quoted from viperrwk:

    I remember seeing this mentioned elsewhere. Is this for WPC only? How do you toggle this mode? (I didn't see it documented...) Thanks!
    BTW I'll send you some files later today.
    viperrwk

    It's on the WPC and Sys11 ones, but it depends on the firmware on the OCD board. The PC app displays a button if the firmware version is compatible. If you want, I could send you an updated PIC to swap into yours.

    #214 6 years ago
    Quoted from Frax:

    Signed up on the preorder page on your site just in case.

    The WPC boards in progress are plenty to fulfill all preorders and still have some for inventory. Sys11, I may have underestimated, and if all my preorders come through with purchases (unlikely) I will completely sell out before having any for inventory.

    Just a heads-up, I'm almost out of Stern kits.

    Quoted from altan:

    +1
    That's really an important feature, IMHO.

    It's a cool feature, but IMO, it's not core functionality. It works in the Williams/DE kits, and I can't add it to the Stern ones due to the hardware design and the way Stern scans the lamp matrix. They scan through the "rows" and have multiple "columns" turned on at once. The LED OCD hardware uses a 74HC238 demultiplexer to drive the 8 "columns" using only 3 outputs from the microcontroller. It's impossible (without a hardware redesign) to have more than 1 "column" active at the same time.

    #220 6 years ago
    Quoted from altan:

    Just to be clear, I'm not saying it needs to be 100% pass thru.

    Understood, but the best I could possibly do is to output at 125 Hz (like Stern) and try to match the duty cycle of the inputs. It would be like a purposefully dumbed down output. In the WPC case I can simply pass the inputs through to the outputs. The WPC was minimal firmware work, whereas the Stern would be a good bit more complex. I'm also not sure that I could fit it in the Stern code space without upgrading to the full version of the compiler. To make this worth the effort, I would be forced to raise the price of the Stern kit, which I avoid like the plague.

    Quoted from Crash:

    What brightness setting sets the duty cycle of the lamp to 60Hz, replicating the brightness and fade time of a normal matrix output?

    There is none. The OCD always outputs at 250 Hz, and it changes the brightness by reducing the amount of time a lamp is on during its 500 ns timeslot. Doing it this way prevents lower brightness values from flickering due to lower refresh rates.

    Quoted from toibs:

    any plans to produce this for any of the Pin2k stuff?

    Not at the moment. I'm not familiar with the Pin2k hardware, so I don't know how much effort would be involved. There's not a very big market, though, so it would have to be easy to be worthwhile.

    Quoted from toibs:

    alongside the menu showing it as all the bulbs having blown...

    Quoted from Crash:

    the board wouldn't draw enough current for that.

    Crash is right. The only way to do anything about this would be to waste power.

    #227 6 years ago
    Quoted from Mudflaps:

    To sideline the tech nerds from turning this thread into VCR instructions

    Dude, not only am I going to set the clock, I'm about to set up a scheduled recording.

    Quoted from Crash:

    So you're saying the LEDs still scan at 250Hz but the actual on time of each cycle is lowered? What an awesome solution!

    It would be so much easier to describe this using a whiteboard, but it sounds like you have the idea. As an example, imagine three lamps in the same column; L1 that is being driven at 100%, L2 at 20%, and L3 is off.

    At 250 Hz, each column is active for 500 ns. When the time comes for that column to be active, the power is turned on by the column transistor and the L1 and L2 row transistors are turned on completing the circuits for those two. The L3 is not turned on at all. After 100 ns, the L2 row transistor is turned off, but the L1 row transistor and the column transistor stay on. After 400 ns more (500 total), the L1 row transistor is turned off and the column transistor is turned off.

    Quoted from Aurich:

    Apologies if I missed this, but this is just the playfield inserts right? I know it doesn't do the GI, but I presume that it also doesn't do the backbox lights, on say a System 11 machine?

    It is only the lamp matrix, so in general, it is just the playfield inserts. There are exceptions. STTNG shield inserts are GI, so they're not controlled. The Spider Wheel items in the backbox of Scared Stiff are controlled by the lamp matrix, so they are controllable using OCD.

    #230 6 years ago

    In case you haven't guessed, the new kits are starting to ship to guys who pre-ordered.

    I plan to give those guys another couple of days to complete their orders, then open it up to everyone else Wednesday. In the meantime, I'm still building cables.

    Here's a picture of some of the new boards in the process of final assembly just before testing.

    IMG_7520.JPG

    #233 6 years ago

    viperrwk,

    I haven't really given this any thought. Unless you're designing bulbs from scratch, you're going to be stuck with the LEDs that are available, and my recommendation would be to just buy a few and try them. I think you've just "out-nerded" me.

    #241 6 years ago

    OK, I think I've given the pre-order guys a fair enough head start. If anyone else wants one, you can now order from my website:

    http://herg.homeip.net/ledocd/

    #248 6 years ago

    No, sorry, but it won't do anything for GI. There is a table in the manual for each game that shows which lamps are at which locations in the lamp matrix. If it's not in this table, it won't be affected by LED OCD.

    #251 6 years ago
    Quoted from tjsynkral:

    Starting to think my only option to beat this dimming problem is to yank my LEDs from GI and go back to incandescent. I didn't mind doing it for CV, but I really like cool white LEDs in CFTBL...

    If you really like LEDs in those locations, it's probably worth trying the Noflix PLUS bulbs.
    http://www.pinballcenter.eu/english/videos/noflix-plus/

    Ordering them is a little more expensive and time consuming since they're not sold in the US as far as I'm aware. I've heard good things about them, though.

    #259 6 years ago

    I'm close to having a proof of concept for GI on WPC machines, but there's still some stuff to finish. What it does now is convert the AC to DC and allow me to individually set each string to a particular duty cycle, smoothly dimming each string. It doesn't yet track the pinball machine's desired brightness. It will also require some rather large heat sinks on the MOSFETs that drive the GI. Space inside the backbox is at a premium, and more big heat sinks are going to be difficult to fit in there.

    Between building, shipping, and supporting LED OCD, not to mention family time and my real job, I haven't had much motivation to work on the GI project lately. I'd love to see it finished, though, if only so that I could use it in my Scared Stiff.

    #264 6 years ago

    Things are starting to calm down with the OCD boards. I've had some time to work on my own machines and play a bit lately, and I'll probably get back into looking at the GI project sometime soon. I don't expect to finish them any time soon, though. There's still a good bit of work just to get a prototype working, and then I'd have to look into making something that would fit in the backbox, what the cost would be, etc. Plus, I'm down to 3 Stern OCD kits, so I'm deciding whether to start another batch of those.

    2 weeks later
    #269 6 years ago

    FYI, I'm planning to be at the York show on Saturday. I won't have a booth, but I can bring LED OCD kits and meet up. If anyone's interested in saving the shipping/PayPal fees, send me a PM.

    #271 6 years ago

    Stern kits are sold out, but I still have WPC and Sys11/DataEast kits. I plan to have a few of each at York tomorrow. I won't have access to Pinside while at the show, so please let me know by tomorrow morning if you want one at the show.

    4 weeks later
    #272 6 years ago

    I just realized that my webhost has not been sending contact forms or pre order requests for the last week or so. I guess you get what you pay for. So, I've broken down, paid for a new host and domain name. The old links will forward to the new site.

    If you have tried to contact me through the website and not received a response, the new website is up and running or you can PM me here.

    http://ledocd.com

    #275 6 years ago

    Yes, Windows. I could reprogram the USB to be a custom device, but then I would have to create a custom INF file, and I think that would cause Windows 8 to complain about an unsigned driver. I'm glad you figured it out, and I'll try to at least add it to the troubleshooting page.

    Quoted from metahugh:

    I submitted a preorder for a Stern OCD board Herg. I can submit a new form through the new website if you need me to.

    Yours came through before the website broke, but if anyone else is unsure, feel free to resubmit. I'll delete any duplicates. It helps me for two reasons.

    1. I use them to decide when to make more kits.
    2. I notify people who have submitted before making them available to everyone else.

    #277 6 years ago
    Quoted from Thor-NL:

    Herg,
    Is there progress on the European distributor ?

    I wish I could report better news.

    I've had strong interest from a couple of well know retailers in Europe, and I would like to do business with them. Doing so, however, would cause me personally some headaches that I am not at liberty to discuss. I can't really see a good solution to the problem other than me selling to someone in the US and them taking care of the reselling and shipping overseas. I know that's pretty cryptic, but I really can't explain any more.

    1 month later
    #280 6 years ago
    Quoted from akm:

    I'm not sure what the pre-order demand has been so far.

    It has been really slow lately. I have set an artificial limit of 20 pre-orders before I pull the trigger on a batch, and yours put me at 13 Stern. I make them in batches of 50 to keep the cost down, and even with me building the cables myself, I have to sell about 35 to break even.

    I've been focusing my efforts on the GI board, and it's starting to come together. Knowing my luck, I'll be ready to make the batch of Stern kits at the same time as the GI kits and have to decide between the two.

    #284 6 years ago
    Quoted from Baiter:

    Crazy how many people buy LEDs but not these boards. I may have to post some before/after videos to convince more people to buy so I can get my next order.

    I'm not sure how you would get any more convincing than this review / video.
    http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/altans-informal-review-of-led-ocd

    It could be the price, although I can't really do much about that. I really am not making much off of them.

    Maybe people don't have the same aversion to harsh lighting, or maybe they think the boards are snake oil that don't really fix the problems. Obviously, I'm biased, but I wouldn't use LEDs without the boards, either. If someone else made them, I would have bought theirs. Eventually, I decided it was only going to happen if I did it myself.

    On the flip side, I didn't expect to sell as many as I have this quickly. The number of repeat buyers is very flattering, and I appreciate the support.

    BTW, a few more pre-orders have come in today, so making another batch is starting to seem more worthwhile. I'm guessing this is due to the thread being bumped.

    #296 6 years ago

    Well, I guess you guys have answered the question of whether there's demand for another batch. My inbox has basically exploded overnight. The only drawbacks to doing it now would be that both my free time and "OCD money" would be tied up for a while, resulting in a delay to the GI project. I'll give it some thought today, but my half asleep, no caffeine thoughts are that it is worthwhile to go ahead and run a batch of Stern boards and just let the GI beta testing run a little longer than I had planned.

    Thank you for the support. I can't explain how great it feels to know that I can contribute to the pinball hobby in a way other than just my sub-par playing.

    #306 6 years ago

    Yesterday, I requested a quote from the assembly house who builds my boards for both the Stern boards and cables. The "said" they could do the cables, but we'll see what they come back with. Everyone else I've approached about it has bailed out once they saw the specs. Either way, if they're building cables or if I am, I'd estimate mid to late January for a batch of the Stern kits to be completed.

    I can't remember where I saw it, but someone had an IDC termination tool that pressed an entire connector in one shot. It was a hydraulic (or maybe air) press, but I'm thinking of trying a manual one using a arbor press. In order to do this, I'll have to find someone to make a custom die. If anyone is willing to help with this, I would compensate appropriately.

    The pre-orders for WPC kits are close to the imaginary cutoff, but there's no way I can do these in parallel. I also really want to fit the GI kits in, so the WPC kits look like the earliest they could realistically be ready would be March.

    1 month later
    #309 5 years ago

    So, the Stern boards have arrived, most have been tested, and I've notified all the pre-order requests that they can order if they still want them. I plan to give the pre-order guys a few days, then open orders to anyone. If you want one but are not on the pre-order list, you can submit a request, and I'll get back to you ASAP... or just wait a few days, and I'll remove the pre-order restriction.

    http://ledocd.com/purchase.html

    I'm planning a run of Williams kits next. Unfortunately, my PCB manufacturer is going to be shut down for two weeks, so I won't even be able to place the order until then. I'm estimating early March for the Williams kits to be available.

    #310 5 years ago
    Quoted from herg:

    I'll remove the pre-order restriction.

    Done. If you want one, just go to the website. Thanks.

    1 week later
    #315 5 years ago
    Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:

    Maybe this has come up before but what sorts of compatibility or problems can one expect on Tron with Eli's ramp mod installed?

    No problems. The ramp mod gets its lamp info directly from the bus between the CPU and power driver boards, not the lamp matrix itself. Also, I've had one of the beta ramp kits and and LED OCD installed in my Tron for over 9 months now.

    Quoted from Concretehardt:

    Herg the kit that came with my MM is missing the Z connector do I need a z connector for an MM install (I think you said my kit was Rev 2)
    Note this was a used kit that came with a game I bought

    It shouldn't be needed for a WPC95. There are two GND connectors on the power driver board, and the Z-connector is not needed unless both of them have something connected. If you find that you DO need one, just let me know, and I'll ship you one. I could also send you a microcontroller with updated firmware if you want to swap it out. The only significant difference I can think of would be the passthrough, though. Once it's installed, the software will report the firmware version that's on yours.

    #318 5 years ago
    Quoted from Concretehardt:

    I just installed my OCD I believe its the rev 2.. my problem is that some of my inserts on the playfield are lit solid others are flashing and others not lit at all. My D9 is blinking but D10 and D11 are kit solid
    Any ideas?

    Just sent you a PM.

    #328 5 years ago

    Yes, it SHOULD be programmed with defaults. You have me second guessing myself, though.

    The one I sent you was an old revision that I updated, AND I didn't have any cables on hand to test it. You asking that question has me trying to remember if I actually stored the defaults. If not, you would have to use the software to configure it.

    #331 5 years ago

    If I hadn't stored defaults, nothing would light up. Basically, when I first program the firmware, everything is set to zero. As an additional step, I hook each one up, run the software, and program the defaults.

    The fact that it's lighting up also means I didn't mess up the cuts and jumpers for the hardware upgrade. I have my only unsold cable set loaned out to a guy who is looking into supplying the cables for the March run of boards, so I wasn't able to properly test the board I sent you. I never would have sold one in the state I sent that one, but since I was completely out of boards and the one you got with your machine purchase was broken, it was worth a shot.

    I'm glad it's working for you and that you're happy with it.

    #334 5 years ago

    All the time estimates have been pretty accurate to this point, and they say early March for the WPC run. My best guess is mid-March for me to be ready to ship. Certainly not any sooner.

    1 week later
    #337 5 years ago

    Art at Comet Pinball and I have recently worked out a way for international customers to get kits. For now, it's only the Stern kits (that's all I have in stock), but we hope to make all of them available eventually. It also gives you guys an option to get the kits and LEDs from a single source.

    http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/ledocdstern.htm

    Comet Pinball will also be at the Florida Arcade and Pinball Expo this weekend, Feb 21 - 23, in Fort Lauderdale. If you're able to attend, it should be a great time.

    http://www.floridaape.org/

    #341 5 years ago

    For the STTNG shields, GI OCD should be able to handle it:
    http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gi-ocd-active-smoothing-for-gi-work-in-progress

    It has not been specifically tested with STTNG yet, but it probably will be in about a month when the new batch of those are built.

    #343 5 years ago

    Yeah, it works fine with non-ghosting bulbs, but you'll want to tweak the settings a little to account for them. Non-ghosting bulbs will not light at the low brightness levels, so you need to increase the duty cycle on the low end of the ramp.

    #345 5 years ago
    Quoted from MK6PIN:

    But ultimately you think it works best w standard LEDs, correct? Might try with the non ghosters first, and I've got a pretty good stash of normal LEDs if I get frisky...always trying to improve...

    Yes, standard LEDs will give the OCD board more direct control over the LEDs. I've been meaning to add some more technical info to the FAQs, so here's a preview.

    Since it seems everything needs a disclaimer these days , be aware that these graphs are just a representation of the observed ramp characteristics, and there's really pulsing and stuff going on behind the scenes.

    So, with standard LEDs, you can usually set the minimum brightness as low as 6% without any noticeable flicker. This means that when a lamp is being turned on, the first step is from 0% to 6%, allowing for a gradual ramp.

    Standard LED representation:
    LED OCD Ramp Example (Standard).png

    With no-ghost LEDs, the bulb will internally squash anything below around 25%, causing it not to light, and it will flicker up to about 35%. I normally set them to 40% minimum brightness to be safe. This results in a step from 0% to 40% when a bulb is first turned on, and as a result, the on/off ramp is not as smooth. It is still better than stock LEDs, though.

    No-ghost LED representation:
    LED OCD Ramp Example (No-Ghost).png

    #347 5 years ago
    Quoted from MK6PIN:

    Curious...why is the total brightness lower w/ the OCD

    By default, the maximum brightness is set to 85%. You can set it to 100% if you want, but this may result in ghosting. It has to do with the increased matrix scan rate and the response time of the transistors. I'm using the OCD method of brightness control in a similar way that the no-ghost ROM patch for WPC games works, only here we have more control over the turn-off time in relation to the turn-on of the next column.

    #349 5 years ago
    Quoted from iceman44:

    I'm sure its been addressed but I couldn't find it anywhere.

    Yeah, but it can be confusing. I'm trying to allow maximum control, but still keep it simple, and the balance is tricky.

    By default, all lamps are set to use profile 7. Profile 7 is set pretty close to the "Standard LEDs" ramp shown a few posts above. To adjust this for non-ghost LEDs, you would change the B1 value for profile 7 (shown in red below) to 40. If the "Advanced" checkbox is NOT checked, the intermediate values (the green ones below) will be automatically adjusted.

    no-ghost change.jpg

    #351 5 years ago
    Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

    Herg, will you be at the Fairfax Pinball Open at all?

    I'm probably going to stop by after work today. I'm not sure I can commit to playing in the tournament, though.

    #353 5 years ago
    Quoted from iceman44:

    Very cool, so you just set the min brightness on profile 7 from 10 to 40 with "non ghosters" as a starting point? That simple?

    Yeah. Well, that, then "Send", then "Save". For starting point, at least. Obviously, if you want to use different profiles for certain lamps, etc, you'd have more stuff to change.

    Quoted from iceman44:

    You would just leave the USB cable connected and accessible through the coin door for whenever we want to make adjustments right?

    That's what I normally do. Obviously, you want to make sure the end of the cable isn't shorting against anything while it's not in use. Some people prefer to open the backbox and plug the USB cable into the board when they make adjustments, but that's up to you.

    #355 5 years ago

    Hope she feels better soon.

    You live close enough that we really should make a point to meet somewhere. Missing the FPO is a bummer, though.

    #360 5 years ago
    Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

    I'll have a blue adidas hat on. If I miss you please accept this as a virtual handshake.

    I'm wearing a green/navy/white plaid dress shirt, and I'll probably head over at about 3 PM.

    Agreed. If we don't cross paths, it's virtually "Nice to meet you."

    #362 5 years ago
    Quoted from cougtv:

    Any way you can shoot me a message when you know?

    I don't own a STTNG, so it will depend on when someone else installs a GI OCD in one and lets me know about it. If you send me an email (http://ledocd.com/contact.html) it will help me remember.

    1 month later
    #365 5 years ago

    I wanted to update the people on the WPC LED OCD waiting list that I have a new supplier for the cables, and they have been slower than expected getting them to me. That's the cause for the delay in being able to ship those kits. They're telling me "end of this week", but I may go ahead and build some more by hand myself to get things moving.

    Quoted from Kneissl:

    any comparison videos with ocd on the Trek pro?

    Sorry, I don't have one available to try it on. To be honest, I haven't even looked up the specifics to see if it's still using the lamp matrix to control the lamps.

    #368 5 years ago

    In general, there are two main reasons I like LEDs.
    1. Better cool colors. Warm games can stay incandescent more easily.
    2. LEDs give you more choices to fill big inserts.

    With that in mind, I'd vote WCS, T2, and if you just neglected to list it, Funhouse.

    2 weeks later
    #376 5 years ago
    Quoted from Nexyss:

    You can move Apollo 13 to the Stern confirmed to work column as well.

    Cool! That's the first verified Sega Whitestar title that I'm aware of. Granted, it's theoretically the same as Stern Whitestar, but it's still cool to see.

    #378 5 years ago
    Quoted from blondie7575:

    Out of curiosity, herg, any chance of releasing the schematics for people to play with?

    What do you have in mind? I wouldn't really be opposed to schematics. There's not much of anything there that's anything special. I would draw the line at gerbers or microcontroller code.

    #383 5 years ago

    It seems Pinside won't let me attach text files now, so I can't attach my XML file. If anyone really wants it, let me know. It's probably not a whole lot of help, though, since my machine is such a patchwork of incandescent and different LEDs. You should be able to get an idea from the attached image.

    This is actually a little older one using the Palantir globe Jay sent me early last year. It was a good bit dimmer than the current one, so those settings in particular will not be very useful with new Palantirs.

    LOTR.png

    #388 5 years ago
    Quoted from Lowrent:

    What are the best (and cheapest) LEDs I can get to light inserts, considering I'll soon get an OCD board ?

    If your goal is cheap, I can recommend these. They tend to be a bit dim for my taste, though.
    http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/100-pack-led.htm
    http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/100-pack-led-bullet.htm

    These, however, are still affordable and much more versatile since they are brighter. They are the bulbs I try first, then I move to others if they don't give me the effect I'm looking for.
    http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/100-pack-smd.htm

    #390 5 years ago
    Quoted from akm:

    I will once a new batch of boards are made..

    I'm building twice as many as usual this time around, so hopefully, I'll be able to keep them in stock a little longer this time.

    Quoted from someoneelse:

    Any news on international availability?

    Nothing new. I will not be able to supply them directly. The plans are for Comet Pinball to have some of the next batch of Stern available, though. Plans do not include WPC or GI currently.

    #391 5 years ago
    Quoted from Skins:

    When will new board be in stock?

    I'm keeping this updated on the website.
    http://ledocd.com/cart

    In summary:

    WPC - a few in stock now, act fast. Later builds are still TBD.
    Stern - late May
    GI - hopefully early July

    #393 5 years ago
    Quoted from jathomp22:

    Is the whole waiting list idea gone or did you just stop accepting new ones? I just want to know so that way I can keep an eye out when they come in stock or if I'll get an email.
    BTW, I have the LEDOCD in Funhouse and STTNG and it's great. I mainly used 1 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS 5050 BULB from Comet.

    Anyone already on the waiting list will be notified when I have what they asked for. They'll have first shot at any new stock. Next, I'll notify anyone who has asked for notifications via the new shopping cart software. These will be first come, first served, but at least you'll get a heads-up if you asked to be notified.

    I'm not adding anyone to a waiting list any more since it turned into a bunch of extra work during this last round.

    #396 5 years ago
    Quoted from m00dawg:

    No clue how I'm going to get a GIOCD in there

    Mine is installed in a completely different section of the backbox. They don't compete for space. That doesn't mean there's tons of extra space, but you won't have any problems with the two boards interfering with one another.

    4.jpg

    Quoted from m00dawg:

    One minor gripe here is that it seems like the board could be done away with by using specialized connectors.

    The early design did not have the board. I found the connectors to be somewhat unreliable, the cables were more labor intensive to build, and the cost was no higher for the board vs the funky cables.

    IMG_4460.JPG

    What I'd really like to do is figure out how to fit the main board down in that corner and have the playfield harness plug in directly, like the Stern design. There's just not enough room. My first beta design stacked on top of the PDB, but it didn't leave enough space for upgraded speakers.

    #403 5 years ago
    Quoted from m00dawg:

    I wanted them too (the speaker upgrades), though they aren't THAT big are they?

    The one on the right is probably around 1" deeper than the tiny original.

    My TZ has LED OCD, GI OCD, a ColorDMD, and FF speaker upgrade in the backbox.

    #406 5 years ago

    This evening, I rewrote the communications portion of the configuration tool to use a different driver (D2XX instead of VCP), and so far it seems more reliable. A board that I previously had problems with is now working well.

    If you have had issues communicating with a particular board, a particular PC, or versions of the driver later than v2.08.24, please give the new software version a try. Feedback would be very useful, and I hope it gets rid of the communications issues that a few users have reported.

    http://ledocd.com/install_software.html

    #408 5 years ago

    I'm keeping this updated on the website.
    http://ledocd.com/cart

    In summary:

    Stern - Building 100 now, ready late May.
    GI - hopefully early July
    WPC/Sys11/DE - Later builds are still TBD

    #410 5 years ago
    Quoted from TomGWI:

    Board is great.
    For some reason, my computer running Win7 has trouble recognizing the board via the software.

    Using the new software or the old?

    Quoted from herg:

    This evening, I rewrote the communications portion of the configuration tool to use a different driver (D2XX instead of VCP), and so far it seems more reliable.

    I'm convinced that FTDI messed something up in the VCP driver after v2.08.24, and since Windows 7 insists on automatically updating drivers, it has caused problems communicating with some boards.

    #416 5 years ago

    Yeah, the way Kneissl worded it, it was a bit confusing, but the one he used it in is a Star Trek Pro, which still uses a lamp matrix. It think it started with Tron LE, where none of the LEs are compatiable.

    I hadn't seen how Stern implemented the color changing on the Pro, so I was hesitant to claim whether OCD would work with it. I'm glad Kneissl was able to break new ground. It seems they used a couple of resistor boards on the matrix outputs, which I'm assuming are to prevent ghosting. Those can be removed when using OCD.

    1 week later
    #425 5 years ago

    I'm keeping this updated on the website.
    http://ledocd.com/cart

    In summary:

    Stern - Building 100 now, ready late May.
    GI - hopefully early July
    WPC/Sys11/DE - Later builds are still TBD

    A reminder, the pre-order list is gone. It was too much work. If you want to be notified when boards are added to the site, you can sign up for notifications there.

    Finally, if you're wondering why I don't just build a bunch of all three, realize this is just a hobby for me. I'm not making nearly as much money as you might think, and it's expensive for me to build a batch of boards.

    #427 5 years ago

    Yes. I'm not sure how to describe it any better than the post you quoted.

    #429 5 years ago
    Quoted from Mudflaps:

    I would like to be notified by morse code when the DE boards are ready.

    I'll look into training a woodpecker to tap the message out on your forehead. This offer is just for you, though.

    #432 5 years ago
    Quoted from sillyoldelf:

    Okay up the price and build more

    Somehow I doubt that a majority of others would agree with your plan.

    Quoted from blondie7575:

    Would it save you effort to offer kits?

    Not really. The way things are set up now, I have a company that fabricates the boards, buys the parts, and assembles them. All I have to do is send them a bunch of money and wait. Same thing for the cables. What is left for me to do is program the microcontrollers, install them and a few other parts on the boards (just stuffing sockets), test the boards, buy the mounting hardware (screws and standoffs), package that stuff with instructions, ship packages, and handle any support issues that arise. Support is a very large amount of the work involved in them, and selling them in kit form would certainly lead to more support.

    #436 5 years ago

    I guess if I had been charging more for them all this time, I'd have a bigger pool of money to build bigger batches with. At this point, raising the price wouldn't make a lot of difference in my ability to make them any faster.

    I'm sorry you missed out on the last batch, and I'm not sure how it happened. I notified everyone on the WPC list and had about 5 in freely available stock for a week before they sold out. I'm leaning toward building both WPC and GI in parallel once I finish the Stern ones I'm working on now, but it's a lot of money for me to tie up at one time. If I was treating it as a business, I'd consider it an investment, but I'm trying to keep it a simple hobby and still leave myself time to actually play my games.

    #443 5 years ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    Is there some quantity of orders you could reach that would let you just skip a lot of the hand work you do and have everything done up for you by the factory?

    Maybe. I haven't really looked into it that much. Finding a manufacturer for the cables was a giant step forward as far as reducing my labor. On the flipside, it now costs more to maintain any inventory.

    Quoted from PotWasher:

    Is there a list somewhere of what machine-specific csv files are included with the tools, or available somewhere?

    All the files I have are included in the software download. It is freely available, even if you haven't bought a board, and it is small enough that downloading to see what games have already been done seems reasonable to me. You don't have to install it. Just look in the "data" directory.

    #452 5 years ago

    Yeah, there are a lot of options with their own pros and cons. I'm doing my best to weigh them to come up with something that works well for everyone. Patience is a virtue.

    1 week later
    #455 5 years ago

    You can request notification via the website. When I add stock, I will send a bulk notification to those who have requested it.

    Seeing as how you're in Australia, however, you won't be able to order direct from me. When I last spoke to Art, he planned to buy 10 to sell through Comet Pinball, and assuming this is still his plan, he would have them shortly after I do. In the past, he hasn't sold them terribly quickly, so you'll probably be able to get one fairly easily. You may want to ask him, though.

    -1
    #458 5 years ago
    Quoted from Shaneus:

    Do you think you'll ever sell directly outside the US or maybe find a reseller here in the future, or unlikely?

    I wouldn't say "never", but it's very unlikely. I cannot go into details, but there are reasons beyond typical Customs issues that make it very difficult for me to do any international business. That includes direct sales as well as with resellers.

    Quoted from Shaneus:

    And I'm hoping the 30th is still looking good for the Stern ones?

    Yes. The majority of the cable sets are packed and ready, and the boards would have been delivered yesterday if I had not missed FedEx due to other responsibilities. They should be delivered today, and I should easily be able to have some of them finished and tested by this weekend.

    #462 5 years ago

    I have had one mounted in my LOTR for about a year using the adhesive standoffs without issues. You can see in the attached pic that the metal backplate makes using screws difficult. You could drill holes in the metal if you really wanted to use screws.

    IMG_6153.JPG

    #467 5 years ago
    Quoted from Shaneus:

    Double post, but whatever: It's available! That is, available on Herg's own website directly. The Stern one. My HUO RBION won't know what hit it

    I was able to get a small number of them assembled and tested last night. More will be added soon. I do have a small number of people on the original waiting list that I was planning on notifying first, but there are plenty of boards to go around this time, I hope.

    #470 5 years ago
    Quoted from Homertv:

    Only 5 in stock
    Hurry up and order everyone

    Honestly, there's no hurry.

    Quoted from herg:

    I was able to get a small number of them assembled and tested last night. More will be added soon. I do have a small number of people on the original waiting list that I was planning on notifying first, but there are plenty of boards to go around this time, I hope.

    I have another 90 of them that should be ready to put on the site this weekend. I just didn't want to list them before I had them fully tested.

    #471 5 years ago

    Ok, NOW you can hurry up and order. All of them are tested and added to the website. Only 77 in stock.

    #473 5 years ago

    Cool your jets! You'll just end up selling it, anyway.

    #477 5 years ago

    Would you like some help trying to find out what it's doing and why? If so, feel free to send me an email.

    #479 5 years ago

    Because of the way LED OCD redrives the matrix, there is no rate that cannot be smoothed. It may take some creative thinking or even new firmware, but ANY possible input can be made into a smooth output.

    The biggest challenge is often getting it to generate smooth output when you want it but keeping blinking when it's necessary to indicate a shot or something like that. There may be cases of this in RBION, and I'm not familiar enough with the game to know. I know of one other person who has one with intentions of putting it in a RBION, and I play at his house fairly regularly. If there's an issue, I'll know soon enough. I'll also take my laptop over there next time I go, and I'm sure he'll let me play around with settings.

    In general, here's the approach I'd suggest:

    1. Make sure that all brightness values you've chosen light smoothly when lamps are being steadily lit at that brightness. This is best done using the manual mode built into LED OCD and stepping through each brightness while observing what the lamps look like. If there's an issue here, it's usually on the low end. Some types of LEDs (especially non-ghosting) have to be set fairly high before they will light smoothly.

    2. Go back to controlled mode and try increasing the delay setting. This increases the time between changes in the output brightness, and as a result, will reduce abrupt changes. This may cause the lamps to react too slowly if overused, so watch for cases where lamps are not blinking as much as they should be.

    3. It there is a particular pattern that looks bad, figure out which brightness values are being used. You can do this by setting all of the brightness values to 0, then setting one of them to a high number. Example:
    Untitled-912.png
    If the lamp this is applied to lights up at all, you know that B5 is being used. Repeat this for all 8 B* values, and you'll know what the range is, and you'll then be able to figure out how big of a swing they're being put through. You can then adjust the "shape" of the brightness ramp accordingly. For example, if B3 - B5 are being used, you can make their values closer to each other in order to reduce the swing.

    #483 5 years ago
    Quoted from Mudflaps:

    The biggest 'wow' response was the DE board…

    Awesome! I've still yet to actually see one installed in a DE game in person. The OCD board used is identical to the WMS one, and Strohz let me test one in his BK2K for the first Sys11. For DE, I looked at schematics, along with everyone saying it's basically a Sys11 clone, and sent a Sys11 kit to a guinea pig (I forget now who that was ).

    #487 5 years ago

    Looks good. Were you able to smooth out the patterns you were having trouble with before?

    1 week later
    #491 5 years ago

    With the Stern kits, it is impossible to quickly turn it off via software.

    Choosing Spider-Man from the drop down does not select any special settings, it simply loads names for the inserts so that it is easier to see what you're changing. With Premiums, you will want to at a minimum set the B1 value to around 40. Otherwise, the LEDs will not light at the lower brightness levels and will be very flickery. The default settings work best with a "plain ghosting" type LED.

    Untitled-917.png

    The reason for this is described in the FAQ.

    http://ledocd.com/faq_led.html

    Additionally, the villain inserts are a special case since they are held at a dimmed level during gameplay. There is a special section in the configuration (very bottom) to describe the process to make these look their best.

    http://ledocd.com/usage_led.html

    #495 5 years ago

    A mix of LED and incandescent is not a problem for the LED OCD. It is able to handle enough current for a machine full of incandescent, and you can tweak settings to make them flow well together. My LOTR is pretty close to 50% incandescent, actually.

    I don't really have intentions to do anything for Stern GI, but I'm curious about what issues you have with it. If I use rectified LEDs, I don't see strobing. Maybe you do, though. I do see some flashing that can be a bit harsh at times; TRON during ZUSE mode, for example, but it kinda fits in with the game, IMO. Stern games don't have the same dimming issues as WPC games, so it would be a lot of cost for minimal benefit.

    #498 5 years ago
    Quoted from TimeBandit:

    please please please someone get them to Aus!!

    You do know you can get the Stern ones from Comet Pinball (http://cometpinball.com), right?

    Quoted from TimeBandit:

    Stern has little boards on the lamp matrix plugs in ST Pro.

    I should probably add this to the installation instructions. Those two boards are basically the same as the resistors near J3 and J4 of the LED OCD board, and they are there to prevent ghosting. You were correct to remove them when you install the LED OCD. I'd love to know the story behind how Stern came to add them.

    #501 5 years ago
    Quoted from TimeBandit:

    the best thing about the IMVE is it is a new machine that still uses the old lamp protocol

    I haven't been following IMVE that closely, so I hadn't seen this info yet. Have a link?

    Quoted from sillyoldelf:

    You can't use this on Transformers LE right?

    That is correct. Any game that uses the new serial controlled LEDs rather than a lamp matrix will not work.

    #503 5 years ago

    I plan to start a build of them very soon, and it would take around a month to finish them.

    I'm now using the website to handle availability updates and notifications. Any changes are posted there, and you can request email notification when they're ready from the product pages.

    #506 5 years ago
    Quoted from akm:

    If you do get a chance to play around with the settings on his machine, definitely post your findings (or solutions, hehe) here.

    This ^ was referring to RBION. I finally got a chance to see and tweak a friend's machine. Initially, I did see some patterns that resulted in nasty flicker, and we tracked it down to no-ghosting LEDs. In manual mode, they weren't lighting at all until about 26%, and not smoothly until about 44%. We tried setting B1 for the active profile to 44%, and it did smooth out the flickering pattern, but it also made it difficult to see the intentional blinking. I dropped B1 back down to 30%, and it was a pretty good compromise.

    He said he would swap the bulbs out to standard LEDs without the no-ghosting, and I think that will allow us to drop B1 back down to the default 10% and have nice effects all around. We'll have to wait and see.

    Just to confirm, the easiest place I could see the flickering pattern was right after the match sequence switched over to attract mode. Here it alternates between X's and diamonds on the 3x3 grid. Is that were you saw the nastiness?

    1 week later
    #509 5 years ago
    Quoted from SealClubber:

    don't recommend using premiums with it.

    Agreed. As I've always said, it really is designed to be best used with plain LED bulbs.

    Quoted from akm:

    Thanks for taking the time to tinker with this on your friend's machine.

    My friend's machine (RBION) is now my machine! I've just started swapping the Premiums that are in it for Comet Frosted 5050s, which are basically the same as CT Supers. These settings are getting really close, in my opinion:
    14 14 14 24 40 40 60 85 ; Delay = 3

    If you care to give them a try, I think they'll help yours as well.

    #511 5 years ago

    Yeah, I traded the LOTR for it. Between family and OCD, I wasn't finding much time to play, so committing to a game of LOTR didn't happen very often. I was happy to see it go to a great guy, and I have had my eye on that RBION for a while now.

    #517 5 years ago
    Quoted from jints56:

    Something tells me you might see this LOTR again soon

    I just hope it's not in a FS thread.

    In case anyone reading this was hoping for an update on the progress of OCD kits, the GI OCD boards have arrived, but about half of the fuse holder clips were installed the wrong way. I'll have to desolder and rotate them myself. Cables should be here any day, and I'll start contacting people.

    #520 5 years ago
    Quoted from TimeBandit:

    Well...big assumption on my part. I'm assuming they run the same machine [Iron Man Vault] with a matrix and sockets, and stick leds in the sockets like they have with the ST Pro. Just running with the idea that a rerun doesn't involve any re-engineering.

    Looks like you were right.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pictures-of-the-new-ironman-ve#post-1771145

    #524 5 years ago
    Quoted from sillyoldelf:

    I thought you had to sign up now to website to be notified on first come first serve basis or is there still a pre-order list?
    I was on the pre-order list but never got contacted even though there was surplus so not sure what to do now. Love my Stern ones so much, would it help if I went down on one knee and begged

    If I missed you, I apologize. I have tried my best to handle the list fairly, but it turned out to be a real chore to manage.

    There are still a good number of names on a "pre-order" list for the GI OCD once I finally have them ready. Anyone on that list, I'm going to try to give first shot at the new batch. At this point, only the GI OCD has a "pre-order" list.

    After early April, I stopped accepting names to the "pre-order" list, and started using the website notifications. This would be where first-come, first-served is applicable.

    #528 5 years ago

    The same board works in WPC, Sys11, Sys9, and DE games. There are two different cables sets, one for WPC, another that works with Sys11, Sys9, and DE. There was a guy a while back who was planning to build his own cables to try the board in a Sys7 game, but I haven't heard from him in a while.

    Stern LED OCD and GI OCD are obviously completely different board designs.

    #533 5 years ago
    Quoted from judremy:

    Herg:
    I have a wh2o that the GI pulses when both flippers are pressed. Almost like a blink of the GI. Would the. GI OCD board help with that. I get 4.93V to the board and I have all LEDs in the machine.

    I can't confidently answer that question since it depends on what the cause of your problem is.

    First, 4.93V to where? Are you talking about the 5V digital power? If so, it's unrelated. Is it all of the GI, or just a string (or multiple strings)?

    If the flippers firing are dragging down the GI voltage enough that you see the GI blink, especially if it's LEDs, you have other problems.

    It could, however, be a poor connection somewhere or a problem with your power driver board. Since the GI OCD completely bypasses the power driver board, it could actually eliminate blinks due to some of those sorts of problems.

    #535 5 years ago

    5V on TP2, J114, or J117 would all be unrelated to GI blinking.

    If all of them blink at the same time, it's most likely a problem with the input power connector, J115. Another less likely possibility would be that the input voltage is getting pulled down due to flippers drawing more power than expected. GI OCD might help with the first problem, but you shouldn't buy it expecting it to.

    I'm not terribly familiar with how the topper lights are controlled, but I believe it's a separate board, similar to the ramps in CFTBL. In that case, the original controller board would likely need modifications to do what you want.

    #538 5 years ago
    Quoted from judremy:

    I know we are just brainstorming, but how would the flippers both being pressed at the same time be related to J115?
    I want to get a board for my LOTR to switch it to LEDs at some point, but if this could get rid of the blinking I am seeing on my WH2O GI, that would be better and more needed.

    I'm not really sure, but my guess is that it's more related to the 6.8V AC GI input than the 5V DC digital. Bottom line, I would not count on GI OCD fixing that problem. It is intended to be a modification to a working system rather than a way to bypass problems.

    I would suggest starting a TECH thread to work through the GI issue since it would get more exposure that way.

    #541 5 years ago
    Quoted from TimeBandit:

    yes. IMVE is using socketed LEDs, still on a lamp matrix, same as the original IM. So still exactly what the board was designed for..traditional sockets with replacement LEDs.

    Well, we think so, at least. They are still using the lamp matrix, but Stern says they did something to improve the lightshow. I'm not sure exactly what that means. I am not aware of anyone actually testing an OCD board in IMVE yet.

    #543 5 years ago

    Unless Stern changed the low level driver that control the lamp matrix, it should work fine in IMVE.

    It's still the same hardware, so no issues there. The piggyback boards that are on the connectors (someone posted pics in another thread) are the same as the ones in Star Trek Pro. Those boards are simply pullup / pulldown resistors that are very similar to the ones I have next to J3 and J4 on the LED OCD board. Their purpose, on my board at least, is to minimize ghosting due to leakage current through the transistors.

    Since the same basic circuit is already on the LED OCD, you should remove those boards from a Star Trek Pro or IMVE if you install an LED OCD.

    #545 5 years ago
    Quoted from ignusfast:

    was trying to figure out how to install it in the Trek

    Yeah, I need to add it to the install instructions. Sorry about that.

    #547 5 years ago
    Quoted from sillyoldelf:

    Are there any pics on how to install in Star Trek or indeed Iron Man VE - not clear on what board should be removed and what happens to the wiring?

    I don't have either of those games myself, and I don't have any pictures of the installation. Once installed, it would look like any other SAM game, though.

    The attached picture shows the boards to remove, outlined in red. In previous machines, the connectors outlined in yellow were connected directly to the power driver board without the "red" boards in between.

    260112-i.jpg

    #549 5 years ago
    Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

    Would you care to share those settings? I just purchased one for my RBION and would like to have a good starting point. Thanks! Looking forward to it!

    Quoted from herg:

    14 14 14 24 40 40 60 85 ; Delay = 3

    The above is what I'm using for mine at the moment. I still need to find the time to do some more tweaking, but it looks pretty good with the above. What seems important for the slower fading sequences on RBION is that B1 - B3 are the same and B5/B6 are the same. This is because during those fades, there are times where the output is bouncing between two values and if there is a big difference between the two, it shows up as a flicker.

    #551 5 years ago
    Quoted from judremy:

    I just bought an LED OCD for my LOTR and wanted to know if you have any special settings for the Palantir with using the Palantir v5 that jrobinso99 made.

    Nothing all that special. Just use an evenly spaced ramp where the brightness is where you want it. It will depend a lot on how bright your other LEDs are and how bright the Palantir needs to be in order to blend nicely.

    Quoted from judremy:

    Also, does this do anything for flashers?

    Sorry, but no, it's lamp matrix only.

    1 week later
    #554 5 years ago
    Quoted from Shaneus:

    I prefer slightly lower brightness on mine anyway

    I do too, but what I typically end up doing is find a ramp shape that works smoothly, then change the other profiles to match that shape, only dimmer. I then play the game over time and pick out which inserts need to be dimmed and work my way toward a nice, even lighting. It's highly dependent on what types and colors of bulbs are used. That's the #1 reason I decided to make it as flexible as possible. Everyone has their own preferences.

    Quoted from Shaneus:

    I think the B1 out of those few groups that need to be the same can be a little flexible, as the fading would really only be controlled once the light it is on, wouldn't it?

    This might get a bit complicated, but let's try anyway. The game is controlling the lamps by turning them on or off within a rigid set of timeslots. In order to interpret that as a brightness level, I'm using a sliding window average. For the sake of simplicity, let's just say it's over 8 timeslots, since that makes the math easier to understand. Also, keep in mind, this is just the part where I'm figuring out what the game is trying to do. It doesn't take your brightness percentages or delay into account, and that is applied as a separate algorithm later.

    Now, an example output from the machine. In the first row, 1's are timeslots where the lamp is on, 0's are timeslots where the lamp is off. In the second row, I'm showing the interpreted brightness level.

    This example is a relatively fast blink.

    0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
    0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 8 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 0 0

    The example is a 50% brightness (as attempted by most games). Notice the steady 4's in the output.

    0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
    0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 3 3 2 2 1 1 0 0 0 0 0

    Now, a 66% pattern from the game. This is where B5 and B6 end up alternating.

    0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
    0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 2 3 4 4 5 6 5 5 6 5 5 6 5 5 6 5 4 4 3 2 2 1 0 0

    33% from the game. It results in the alternating B2 and B3.

    0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
    0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 2 2 2 3 3 2 3 3 2 3 3 2 3 3 2 2 2 1 1 1 0 0 0

    And finally, 20%. Here's where B1 and B2 can come in.

    0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
    0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 1 1 2 2 2 1 1 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0

    Really, what matters, however, is how it looks when you're done. There are no strict rules on how you set it up.

    Quoted from Shaneus:

    Is there much difference in software revisions other than updated table profiles?

    Recently, most of the updates are to add data files for additional games. There have been a few updates to fix bugs. The most recent one, for example, displays a warning if a data file does not include the correct number of inserts. A customer ran into a problem where a customer provided data file for TSPP only had 72 inserts defined in it, the software misinterpreted it, and communications with the OCD board were incorrect as a result.

    #558 5 years ago
    Quoted from Schwaggs:

    Dang it Herg, I really need one of these for my STTNG. Hurry up and build some more!

    I would guess you already know this, but there is a batch of LED OCD for Williams/DE already being built. ETA is early next month. LED OCD for Stern and GI OCD for WPC are in stock now.

    #560 5 years ago
    Quoted from kosmo:

    Is there an european reseller where i could buy these ?

    Sorry, but no, I don't have a European reseller. Art at Comet Pinball can forward them to European customers (for a fee), assuming I have them in stock.

    1 week later
    #564 5 years ago