I hadn't seen this mentioned anywhere in the post, so I thought I'd ask. (First post on the forum, and it's a question already. Whew.)

Anyone use this is 3rd Party power boards on WPC games? (PinLED, others..)

Edit: Nevermind, saw one mentioning Rottendog's board, so I guess we're good. Was asking because the PinLED WPC driver board has extremely horrible ghosting/flickering with LEDs on TZ..

Okay, question for you advanced guys..

My OCD finally came in, and on my game, I'm leaving visible lights (pop bumpers, comdom'd lights) as incandescent.

However, in the software, when I set these lights to '1', the Incandescent setting, they are still dimmer and delayed moreso than without the OCD.

Before I made changes to the setting #1 (the 'Incandescent' setting) and changed Min to '0', max to '100', and evenly distrubets the values in between, that helped, but there's still a delay. Was wondering if this is the best for Incandescents, or if it was possible to enable 'passthrough' for these lights. (When enabling / disabling passthrough, I can see a difference on how the incandescent's are lit up.)

Thanks!
-Me.

Yeah! To expand on that, I wasn't expecting to receive it and the GI board until later this week. However, last night I was pleased as punch when the usps site said I'd get it today - a day home from the office. Just my luck then, when the mail didn't arrive at 10am like usual.. Instead st 730 - 8pm.. I was only able to get the OCD in, software installed, to mess with it for a few minutes before having to call it a day. I still have to get the GI in now...!

Oy - I'm not too worried about that, all in all. The only reason it took me so long to get it for my TZ is because the TZ was/is a really expensive restore, and I had to get a LOT of other things for it.. So, since the OCDs were seen as finishing touches, they came up near the end of the restore. However, when getting another game, it won't have such a huge parts need, so.. I can drop the buck and a quarter for an LED OCD without issue.

AH! I wasn't aware there was a 'B0'! Thanks for that!

Thanks for those, I'll give them a try. I did the 'advanced' and modified my ramp to be linear - but having thought that B1 was the lowest, started that at 0. At that setting, anyone that didn't have a non-OCD's game to compare against really could NOT tell a difference, unless they were very observant in patterns. (Or, was comparing an incandescent to an LED on the same game under similar inserts.) You can most notice it in the difference when you enter / exit the passive mode, which now I know is expected.

--Mike

Good to know then, thanks!

Awesome, be interested in trying it out. I CAN burn chips, if that's any easier and cheaper..!

For the record, it's not necessarily ONLY for the flicker, but - as I think other people have stated - it also help with the HARSH "on" and "off" of LEDs. (The sharp warm-up and cool-down of the light being emitted.)

LEDOCD - handles Insert and controlled lamps.
GIOCD - handles GI lamps.

If your budget is limited, get LEDOCD first. If not, get both.

The GI board should be listed on the same site, it's made by herg , along with the the other boards.

You CAN get them in any order you want, if you can't get both at once. I think that despite GI effects, you get more immediate notice and like with the Controlled Lighting one (LEDOCD), as those are guaranteed to be blinking on and off as you play. The GI, if you already have LEDs in, and the strobing bothers you, you can turn GI Dimming 'Off' (note: on WPC machines. Not talking about others) until you can get the GI board.

Edit to add: Yes, I live by these boards - I can not STAND the harsh on-off of LEDs, and my TZ needed these.

As a followup - rereading my post, I sound like a dick. That wasn't intended, honest.

Thanks, Unrelated, ex-wife's family came over, despite the pandemic and all, and I was stressed yesterday.

I told Herg about this a long time ago, but the one issue I have with the OCD dimming is that it SEEMS linear.

i.e. If the brightness is going from 100 to 0 (on to off), the ramp up is even - after a quarter of the delay it'll be down to 75% brightness, then halfway, 50%, then three-quarters, 25% brightness, and so on. However, actual incandescent bulbs do not work that way - it's a logarithmic build-up/drop off. (i.e. when cooling down, the bulb will drop from 100% to 50% in the first quarter as the speed of dropoff slows. (*)

However, I'm being so VERY anal in this, that it's not really worth the amount of time program in - what it dos now is 100% more than acceptable.

(*) - The only reason I know this is because when I work on older, incandescent railroad signals, I have to have a luminosity tester. Once a year I have to record the 'on time' and 'off time' of all incandescent bulbs, to verify that a bulb's burnup isn't taking too long in case a signal drops (goes to red) quickly - the engineer needs to see the red light ASAP. The only way to fix this - if a bulb fails (which it can and has) is to either bump up the voltage, replace the mirror, or replace the bulb with a higher wattage one. P. I. T. A.

Oh, I understand. And aren't complaining. Just stating. I think my boards are the early versions that don't do the ramp-up. But even with that, my boards do the job, and do it well.

HAH! *YOU* haven't met my ex-inlaws. (Hell, for that matter, *I* haven't ever wanted to see my ex-inaws again, either.)

Heh. Long story, not suitable here.

Correction - I was meaning the 64-steps rampup.