(Topic ID: 1126)

LEDs - All you wanted to know

By Brokedad

14 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Cypress
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    #86 10 years ago
    Quoted from BestShot31:

    I wanted to bump this link as I have found the original post extremely helpful for general LED matching to both the backbox and playfield lighting. Here were the important items I needed to know:
    1. White bulbs: warm versus cool white
    2. Bulb lens: frosted vs. non-frosted/no lens
    3. Color match: to match or not match LEDs with insert, bumpers, playfield GI or backbox colors
    4. LED type: bright, superbright, 1-LED, 3LED, flashers, etc...
    5. Which retailer has the best LEDs or best prices
    Other questions on LEDs:
    - Are the newer SMD LEDs better versus the older type of LEDs?
    - Is/are there a free site(s) that lists or suggests the playfield/GI and backbox LEDs replacement configuration for specific pinball games? I would rather not buy a kit, but would consider variations of a kit if available.
    - Are there any updates for this original post?

    Having experimented on my Bullwinkle machine with quite a few different types and strengths of LEDs from Cointaker and Noflix, I can soundly answer all of these with my own personal opinion:

    1. Warm for a retro look and/or inserts of either white or yellow color. Cool whites give a brighter newer look, and are also great for popping a white insert more. For example, I use warm white frosteds in most of my white and yellow inserts, but I use a cool white 2-LED in my jackpot white insert to make it stand out more.

    2. Almost always frosteds, even in inserts. I only have a few inserts where I use 2-LEDs, like orange because a frosted orange doesn't match the brightness of the other frosted colors. Frosteds are also superb for backbox lighting. I use all frosted cool whites in my Bullwinkle backbox, and it looks by far the best from other LED methods I tried in it.

    3. G.I. and Backbox should be always be frosted cool whites or warm whites depending on which look you prefer. You can use colored frosted LEDs in a FEW select places in the G.I., but this has to be done with a specific goal in mind. My own example is I used blue frosteds in the upper skill-shot lanes, and also in the lower return lanes in my Bullwinkle machine. I tried throwing some other colors around in the G.I., but too many colors just looks tacky. So I have all other G.I. cool white frosteds now. With regard to inserts, I've found Frosted warm whites are best for white and yellow, 2-LED or Super oranges for orange (Supers are slightly stronger than 2-LED), and then direct-color frosteds for all other insert colors.

    4. Intensity depends on the size of the insert, but most are fine with a frosted bulb. I did have one insert that was so large as to require going all the way up to an "Ultra" from Cointaker, but this was the exception. For Flashers, I found that Cointaker's FLEX-8's are the most versatile and the cool whites look fantastic!

    5. Best price-to-quality goes to Cointaker, but I found for direct-view situation where the playfield has a feature that uses bulbs directly in line-of-sight, nothing beats a Noflix Plus domed bulb. They have simply the best color saturation without blinding the eye, and their anti-strobing/ghosting features are unmatched by any other company.

    6. SMDs are in fact better than the older style, at least I think so. Instead of a single point of light, they can give off a wall of light depending on the configuration.

    7. Never use a kit. If you're unsure about a look, just order a couple bulbs of a few types and test them yourself. I did this for my LED conversion, and I ended up getting exactly what I wanted. I know now I would have been disappointed had I used a kit.

    #88 10 years ago
    Quoted from Dommer:

    I was testing 555 LEDs on my Pinbot in the center color matrix, below the visor, but for some reason they would not work. Haven't had any issues with any other LEDs bulbs not working for the inserts or GI. Any idea what the problem could be?

    I know that 555's from Cointaker are finicky and sometimes won't work unless you readjust the wire positions. Sometimes you even have to bend the wire over to the other side.

    #93 10 years ago
    Quoted from hollywood:

    Not necessarily true. Some company's kits are "better" than others, I have different company's kits and I know which ones I am not happy with. However, even the not so great kits give me the extra bulbs I need to mix-and-match like you are saying. If a kit is well thought out and not just colour-matched - they can be stunning.

    I'm sorry but kits will never be as good as your own preference. And there's no point to a kit having extra bulbs, seeing as how you just bought the entire kit to begin with. It's already a wash at that point.

    #96 10 years ago
    Quoted from herg:

    Full Disclosure:
    The LEDs being used in that video are not CT Premium; they are Ablaze 3-LED. Here's a link to Altan's review:
    http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/altans-informal-review-of-led-ocd

    While Cointaker premiums are "decent" at reducing ghosting, they suck concerning strobing. At least that's been my experience with them. By far the best for reducing both strobing and ghosting were Noflix Plus LEDs, but of course those are the most expensive.

    #101 10 years ago
    Quoted from PinDescabarian:

    Sorry. Incandescent light that has been swopped with an LED.

    There may be a little warming, but they should not be hot unless you got one of the super bright LEDs like the Ultra series from Cointaker. They warn Ultras do indeed get hot as they pull the same voltage a filament bulb does. I suspect there's a scaling heat factor the brighter the LED is.

    #104 10 years ago
    Quoted from PinDescabarian:

    It is a single LED On X-Men LE that lights Magneto (out in front). Not sure the brand. The LED came with the game and was swopped from another spot. That particular light shuts off when I open the coin door. My question is...is it safe for the game? I do not think it is hot enough to start a fire. Nothing seems to be melting or discoloring. ???? I guess I could swop in another LED. Does anyone have a suggestion?

    I'd need to see a picture of the LED and where it installs in the prop. If I recall, Stern uses LEDs by default in their machines, and they may even be supplied by Cointaker.

    #106 10 years ago
    Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

    This is a 12 Volt source, and a 12V LED is needed. A 6.3 will get very hot and eventually burn out.
    I stock a flat 7 SMD 12 Volt for this, and our Op-Max will be in, in 12 Volts. In the meantime, or as long as you like, use a 12V flasher bulb.
    Art
    cometpinball.

    Ouch, that certainly would explain his heat issue. Was it perhaps a 906 socket that he put a 555 into?

    2 months later
    #145 10 years ago
    Quoted from HHaase:

    A while back I did some lux measurements of various LED's on the market. Most were brighter than incandescents viewed from the top, and mixed results from the side. The one that stood out as being closest in light output to incandescents were cointaker warm white frosted. Almost identical.

    I noticed this myself when I was experimenting with different lighting schemes from a grab-bag of Cointaker LEDs. Basically if you want the "retro" look, Frosted Premium Warm Whites are the way to go.

    BTW, I once asked Melissa the relative strength of each LED they offer, and she gave me this general guideline:

    The ultras are a full 1 watt led bulb
    The supers are about 3 times brighter than an incandescent
    The 2 leds are about 2 times as bright as an incandescent.
    The mini's are pretty much along the same brightness as an incandescent

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