I'd take one for my LAH.
(Topic ID: 111723)
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1 month later
Installed mine in the LAH, love it! This board in unison with Herg's awesome LED OCD board makes LAH one of the best machines ever (along with Craig's awesome LAH ROM chip too)!
Seriously, the smooth GI fade (and no relay noise) and the smooth controlled light fades, right up there with the very best Williams machines from the 90's. Better than some even, I love LAH...I know there are more of you out there, closet LAH fans unite! 
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:Installed mine in the LAH, love it! This board in unison with Herg's awesome LED OCD board makes LAH one of the best machines ever (along with Craig's awesome LAH ROM chip too)!
Seriously, the smooth GI fade (and no relay noise) and the smooth controlled light fades, right up there with the very best Williams machines from the 90's. Better than some even, I love LAH...I know there are more of you out there, closet LAH fans unite!
Craig and Harold are two stand up guys!
Quoted from Whysnow:Post some videos of what setting you have opted for and why please
Video is so difficult, and this board is pretty easy to program. I choose a couple clicks up from off for minimum GI, and as high as it will go for maximum GI for the playfield. I choose a rise and fall time similar, hard to tell if it's exactly the same, there's not readout or anything. For the backbox I choose off as a minimum and as high as it will go for a maximum. I choose a fast raise time for the backbox, and a really slow fall time.
The idea for me is to give just a little general illumination to the playfield from those two GI strings when it should be totally off, but max brightness when on. This in unison with the slower rise and fall times I set for the playfield help eliminate the intense on/off effects you get from the stock setup. Also, the clicking is gone, and that does take a while to get used to, believe it or not.
For the backbox, I choose the fast rise time and slow fall time to keep the backbox on, or at least not fade totally off for the basic GI fades. But when modes change, those off times are longer, so it fades slowly to off during those long pauses, but when they backbox GI is supposed to be on, it ramps up fairly quickly. Again, to just give a little break to the eyes, LAH during multiball was pretty intense in a dark room, seizure multiball for sure. But now, with the slower rise/fall of the playfield, along with not all the way off, in conjunction with the backbox providing light a lot of the time instead of an on/off flashlight in your face, it really helps with that issue, provides nice fading GI with DE games rather than the intense relay on/off that you get with them.
1 week later
Quoted from pinballnut3:Holy smokes Batman, After and hour of play. This thing is Amazing. Took a second to get used to it. It was so quiet and easy to hear the call outs. NO CLICK CLICK CLICK.
If your on the fence.....Get one! It's awesome.
I know right, it's does take a minute to get used to silent fading GI...it's amazing! 
Quoted from Sjsilver:Here is video of mine in DESW.
» YouTube video
Here are some highlights:
@2:58 I start Tri-ball. This would normally induce seizures
@4:40 I get a sweet skill shot using the force. Shower me with praise!
@4:57 & 5:18 I hit the Darkside shots. This would normally be totally dark. I might reduce the minimum light settings eventually.
@6:20 I totally blow the victory lap shot
@7:00 speeder mode (GI dims)
@7:30 I completely blow it when entering my initials. Sigh. Shower me with much-deserved scorn.
Seems like there no fade effect at all anymore, is that what you're going for?
1 week later
Quoted from GaryMcT:Anyone installed one into a System 11 game yet?
Well, this is for DE games...
3 months later
Quoted from jfesler:I have successfully used Caker137's EnerGI Maestro on my Stern Indiana Jones, aka IJ4. For my purposes my GI is always-on, never controlled by the game; so this integration was relatively easy (and for others reading this, hopefully easier for you!). I did not attempt to patch the GI relay over, since this game simply doesn't use it. My main motivation for this board was to have always-on GI, but at adjusted power levels.
The biggest headache for me was, of all things, finding the right frelling Molex connector. This one connector appears to be minimally documented. Had to dig through several manuals to find confirmation that my measurements were right; and lots of digging on Mouser, Digikey, and the search engines. Had to work with this connector:
2015-05-30 10.58.38.jpg
Ultimately ordered these from Mouser, which picked and shipped within 1 business day. My first time ordering via them.
2015-05-30 10.59.26.jpg
2015-05-30 10.59.12.jpg
If you're perfect, you will need:
1: 50-84-2060 Molex 6 pin 2.13mm MLX Crimp Housing
4: 02-08-2006 Molex 0.084" (2.13mm) Terminal Pins
Adjust for your own imperfections.
Caker137's board comes with a 4 pin connector. With a meter, I found that the top two pins had continuity on the board. And the lower two pins, had continuity. So, we have our two "sides".
2015-05-30 11.02.34.jpg
Caker137 says only one pin of each side is actually needed. Since I was reusing the cable, and didn't want to have lose cables, I just went ahead and hooked up all 4 wires instead of two. Terminal pins are cheap; the wire is already there; let's have something a bit more substantial.
The power connector from Stern has 2 rows of 3 wires each. Using a volt meter I found each row was one "side", providing ~6.3vac.
I snipped off the unused side of Caker's connector; then connected it to the new 6 pin connector as such:
2015-05-30 11.16.00.jpg
2015-05-30 11.17.26.jpg
2015-05-30 11.28.24.jpg
I did a quick hanging smoke test, and no smoke was let out. Yay! Also did this in preparation to see where I wanted to mount the board; and if I was to use the extension cables for the GI lighting or not. I decided to mount the board on the side of the head, close to where the Stern J14 and J15 are.
After mounting the board, it looks more like this now:
2015-05-30 11.44.52.jpg
Stern GI power (usually in J14) -> 6 pin Molex -> EnerGI Power Cable -> EnerGI port P1
Stern GI lamps (usually in J15) ->EnerGI port P4
How does it look?
At full (unwanted!) brightness:
2015-05-30 12.07.08.jpg
And at 6 notches down with EnerGI Maestro:
2015-05-30 12.07.57.jpg
Overall, I'm quite happy with the results. The play field is now 100% LED, with Herg's LED OCD plus Caker137's EnerGI Maestro. Everything is tunable and allows me to preserve as much as possible the ambience of the original game; while dialing in the amount of light. Power draw is less (good for the machine; good for my 120v circuit).
Thanks to Caker137 and Herg for their boards and their help.
Very nice! Great products!
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