I have successfully used Caker137's EnerGI Maestro on my Stern Indiana Jones, aka IJ4. For my purposes my GI is always-on, never controlled by the game; so this integration was relatively easy (and for others reading this, hopefully easier for you!). I did not attempt to patch the GI relay over, since this game simply doesn't use it. My main motivation for this board was to have always-on GI, but at adjusted power levels.
The biggest headache for me was, of all things, finding the right frelling Molex connector. This one connector appears to be minimally documented. Had to dig through several manuals to find confirmation that my measurements were right; and lots of digging on Mouser, Digikey, and the search engines. Had to work with this connector:
Ultimately ordered these from Mouser, which picked and shipped within 1 business day. My first time ordering via them.
If you're perfect, you will need:
1: 50-84-2060 Molex 6 pin 2.13mm MLX Crimp Housing
4: 02-08-2006 Molex 0.084" (2.13mm) Terminal Pins
Adjust for your own imperfections.
Caker137's board comes with a 4 pin connector. With a meter, I found that the top two pins had continuity on the board. And the lower two pins, had continuity. So, we have our two "sides".
Caker137 says only one pin of each side is actually needed. Since I was reusing the cable, and didn't want to have loose cables, I just went ahead and hooked up all 4 wires instead of two. Terminal pins are cheap; the wire is already there; let's have something a bit more substantial.
The power connector from Stern has 2 rows of 3 wires each. Using a volt meter I found each row was one "side", providing ~6.3vac.
I snipped off the unused side of Caker's connector; then connected it to the new 6 pin connector as such:
I did a quick hanging smoke test, and no smoke was let out. Yay! Also did this in preparation to see where I wanted to mount the board; and if I was to use the extension cables for the GI lighting or not. I decided to mount the board on the side of the head, close to where the Stern J14 and J15 are.
After mounting the board, it looks more like this now:
Stern GI power (usually in J14) -> 6 pin Molex -> EnerGI Power Cable -> EnerGI port P1
Stern GI lamps (usually in J15) ->EnerGI port P4
How does it look?
At full (unwanted!) brightness:
And at 6 notches down with EnerGI Maestro:
Overall, I'm quite happy with the results. The play field is now 100% LED, with Herg's LED OCD plus Caker137's EnerGI Maestro. Everything is tunable and allows me to preserve as much as possible the ambience of the original game; while dialing in the amount of light. Power draw is less (good for the machine; good for my 120v circuit).
Thanks to Caker137 and Herg for their boards and their help.