(Topic ID: 167309)

LED driver replacment

By pinstyle

7 years ago

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52 posts
12 Pinsiders participating
Latest reply 6 years ago by jsrfo
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider agodfrey.
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My question is if it's just one led on smd on the board (in my instance the red doesn't work but green and blue do and there are no other issues) is the driver an issue is there there an smd available that can go in? I know these ws2811 have built in controllers but if it's just the smd that's bad and not the rest of the set up.

More than anything we'll eventually need to have these be serviceable and I'd love to be on the edge of that so I don't have to pay $70 every time my rainbow letters act up

Eventually there will be a solution.... eventually.... With as many WOZ machines out there and them eventually failing I think there has to be a retro fit solution.

I still believe in Jjp but I agree this isn't the most bullet proof solution.

Life....finds a way....

Quoted from herg:
...and there's 10 less available now. It seemed prudent to order some myself, so I did.

I found those but they looked out of stock. Might be worth getting some!!

Good golly these traces are small.... Need me one of those toaster oven systems to get that chip. Time to get a smaller system...

I've got some tinkering to do

This was my concern. We need munchkin solder stations

Time to think bigger boys....none of this little stuff....

If someone got in the business of fixing these they'd be my hero I'm good at board work but this surface mount stuff... Sheesh

Excellent!!! Hopefully we all can start doing this or maybe someone will start repairs.

Quoted from herg:
We had success repairing one of these boards today.
DCFAN had a board with the red segment out on one LED. I attached a couple of test wires to the suspect driver output and the 7.5V supply, then when the red segment wasn't working, I connected a cheap wedge based pinball LED to the wires momentarily. When it lit, we knew the driver was OK and the RGB LED was bad.
Using the Kingbright AAAF5051-04 mentioned above, I replaced the LED. Even with lots of flux and patience, I wasn't able to remove the old LED with the hot air station. There was just too much thermal mass in the power plane under the LED. I ended up cutting the leads with dikes, then using an iron to desolder the slug.
To install the new part, I cleaned all the pads, and put solder and flux on the center slug pad. I scraped off a small spot of the solder mask just outside the perimeter of the LED. Using an iron, I heated the power plane until the heat conducted to the center pad, and I could see the solder flowing. I then placed the LED and allowed the power plane to cool, finishing off the center slug connection. I then went around the LED and soldered the other six pads like normal using the iron.
Even though the specs on the LED do not match exactly, you'd be hard pressed to pick it out. The colors look nearly identical, even when staring at them directly, not through an insert.

Still I'd end up ahead if it were $60 to fix my one bad led which is the same in the example. Just the red is out of one.

Maybe down the road.

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider agodfrey.
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