(Topic ID: 123962)

LED choice


By snowvictim

4 years ago



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  • 18 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by DefaultGen
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#1 4 years ago

Hi, folks!

My Twilight Zone should be delivered any day now, so I was thinking about upgrading the lighting on my TOTAN and TZ to LED. I'm new to LEDs, I did some basic research into it. I have a question about LED types for different areas of the pin.

So, I was thinking:
- superbrights for inserts
- frosted for backbox
- ultrabrights for slingshots, etc.

Do you think this is a good setup? I have no idea how they present themselves in reality, so I can't really make a judgement on what to put where.

Thanks!

#2 4 years ago

Everything is subjective... but I hate when GI is too bright. My go to bulb is CT ww frosted for a natural look. Same for backbox but I won't fill that up or it gets too bright.

I have a boatload of cw that I'll probably never use since I switched to ww. Game pics in my profile if you want to see my preference.

For older games I'll also try to put in an LED-patched eprom and turn dimming off in the settings.

#3 4 years ago

Buy a sample pack from each provider of bulbs and see what you like where. Some providers tell you what bulbs look better where too.

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

I hate when GI is too bright

Could not agree more. Overly bright LEDs are a plague upon the land, in my opinion.
Comet and Pinball Life also have frosted LEDs at a very good price.
Chuck's suggestion to get a few samples and see what you like is a very good idea.

Edit - Just noticed that you are overseas. Not sure what is available in your area of the world without overseas shipping, but try samples from your area vendors. European pinballers may have some ideas.

#6 4 years ago

Not a problem to ship overseas, if I gotta pay then tough... Local vendors are mostly out and I want quality, so I'm going to go with CoinTaker LEDs. Thanks for the idea with the sample. It's good, but that means I'll have to pay more. I guess that's the price (no pun intended) of pimping out your game...

#7 4 years ago

If you have friends that have LEDS in their games, that is a good way to see how things look before you buy too. Good luck.

#8 4 years ago

Unfortunately none of my friends owns a pinball machine. But I'm pretty positive they're a better solution than incandescents (warping plastics, getting "smokey"...).

#9 4 years ago

over bright anywhere is a bad thing. It just makes the games blinding and looks like crap. If you play in a fim room it gets hard to see the ball too since its all being backlit

#10 4 years ago

Buy some samples and see what works. There are also kits that make all the decisions for you.

#11 4 years ago

I like the ct color matched supers in the inserts. Warm frosteds in the backbox (like stated above it looks natural) and the warm retros or frosteds in the gi.
Since you're shipping might be expensive grab a few of the colored supers with flexible heads on them in every color you use. Sometimes you'll need them to fully lite an insert.

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

Unfortunately none of my friends owns a pinball machine. But I'm pretty positive they're a better solution than incandescents (warping plastics, getting "smokey"...).

Much better option. Since there are warm whites and retros, there is basically no reason to still use incandescent in any machine in my opinion. I have tried almost every brand/type bulb, and my favorites are:

2 SMD faceted bulbs (warm white). The best all purpose bulb IMO, especially good for GI.
Twin 2835 frosted bulbs (warm white) for backglass.
Twin 2835 frosted for color matching inserts.

I know that comet has all these, but if you are going cointaker, I am sure they have comparable bulbs. Just ask them. Very easy to deal with, and you will get quick responses.

#13 4 years ago

I actually find it hard to get everything I need from just one place. Comet has some really cool stuff, some of my favorites are the Optimus Maximus bulb and the ice blue frosted & flasher. They also have killer prices on non-ghosting bulbs for the inserts.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

I actually find it hard to get everything I need from just one place. Comet has some really cool stuff, some of my favorites are the Optimus Maximus bulb and the ice blue frosted & flasher. They also have killer prices on non-ghosting bulbs for the inserts.

Totally agree. that is why it is so hard to suggest for someone just starting to get LEDs. I seriously spent like $50 at each company getting a samples and went from there. I now have like at least 100 random LED bulbs that I keep around to try out in a new game to see what looks best in it, then go out and get enough do the whole game.

#15 4 years ago

Also. Do not buy a single non-ghosting bulb until you have converted your whole game to LED. Then play your game and see what bulbs are ghosting, then replace those ones. It will save you a lot of money in the end.

#16 4 years ago

Great tips, guys. Thanks! Just a question - what's ghosting? Is it when the LEDs stay on when they're not meant to (dim glow)?

I'll get a couple of samples from different suppliers to see what works best where. I have the translite lighting for my TZ planned already - it's going to be mostly warm white, but I want to illuminate the open door with clear white and a few places here and there with blue LEDs.

No idea about what I'm going to do with my TOTAN. I couldn't even get to planning since it's got the stupid Williams translite cover on the back (Team Bally for life!!!) and I can't be bothered to take it off yet, I'll wait on the LEDs to arrive. But I think both games look sublime with LED conversion. The colours are magnificent. Gee, good I chose TZ over TAF (albeit both look good with LEDs, but I couldn't find my dream ToM)...

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

Great tips, guys. Thanks! Just a question - what's ghosting? Is it when the LEDs stay on when they're not meant to (dim glow)?
I'll get a couple of samples from different suppliers to see what works best where. I have the translite lighting for my TZ planned already - it's going to be mostly warm white, but I want to illuminate the open door with clear white and a few places here and there with blue LEDs.
No idea about what I'm going to do with my TOTAN. I couldn't even get to planning since it's got the stupid Williams translite cover on the back (Team Bally for life!!!) and I can't be bothered to take it off yet, I'll wait on the LEDs to arrive. But I think both games look sublime with LED conversion. The colours are magnificent. Gee, good I chose TZ over TAF (albeit both look good with LEDs, but I couldn't find my dream ToM)...

yes. Ghosting is when they are kind of on when they are not supposed to be. Flickering when on is a characteristic of ghosting too. Non-ghosting bulbs I have found help any sort of weird behavior that a normal LED might have. I will let others comment as well, as my issues with ghosting have been few.

#18 4 years ago

TZ and TOTAN are beautiful pins worthy of investing in LED OCD (which prevents ghosting and restores the ability of the LEDs to dim correctly making everything look 100x better). Ghosting is when LEDs are flickering on with 10-20% brightness when they're supposed to be off. You don't need non-ghosting bulbs if you buy LED OCD. There's also a patch floating around to fix ghosting on WPC game ROMs, but that just fixes ghosting, not dimming.

I personally light my games very bright. I color match 4 SMD LEDs for inserts and a mix of Comet sunlight frosted 2 SMD bulbs and Optix Maximus for GI. Sometimes I use colored GI, but it's easy to overdo that.

I also recommend sampling bulbs before buying in bulk. My first order was a big order of single LED clear bulbs that I hated for every application. I end up taking a lot of these cheap bulbs out of games I buy and replacing them with the brighter bulbs I prefer.

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