(Topic ID: 173720)

LED and Rubber Maps for Lord of the Rings


By flynnibus

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 13 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by Adaminski
  • Topic is favorited by 32 Pinsiders

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#1 2 years ago

Ok, back for another round.. Here is my effort to improve upon the original documentation for adding silicon rings and LEDs to Lord of the Rings!

For LOTR, the original manual is pretty good, with only minor errors and confusing info for the rubbers. Specifically the photo map for rubbers is incomplete and the list of rubbers is far more extensive than you need for a silicon ring upgrade. LOTR uses 7/16" OD rings extensively for grommets on assemblies and mounting lights to the playfield. These do not need to be replaced when simply adding silicon rings. This also applies to the bumpers used in mechanisms, and two places where rubber rings are used as friction nuts (Sword Ramp and Palantir). So these rubbers are excluded from my charts. I also do not include the blue pad rubber used on the playfield and a shooter tip.

So let's get to the meat of the matter.. The way I assembly my info is I have a google sheets doc that has all the information, and images that help identify the locations used. The Google Sheet can be found here https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1AMfgqSx6CONrXw0tBQ8sucsd7wiVSB2cASlilaRADR0/edit?usp=sharing

Here is the Rubber Map. I chose clear rings. Photos of the final install will be added in later posts
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#2 2 years ago

Next.. LEDs!

Why pay for markup on a kit when you can buy the individual lights? Plus, it helps to have someone find out which lights work best where, maybe even some artistic choices.

For LOTR, things are relatively straight forward. I've chosen some subtle color adds for the rear two corners of the game, as well as the GI lights on the backboard. The spreadsheet highlights which bulb changes are alternate styling vs an OEM look. There are no errors in the manual that I noted - its just about which LEDs work best for your intended look.

The spreadsheet includes a BOM of all the LEDs and Flashers used, and a graphical map of where to use each. My list is based on using cointaker LEDs and I try to use the cheaper LEDs where possible. This, along with the style of using Retro bulbs is why you see a mix of Retro, Frosted, and Mini bulbs. This build is also based on using an OCD LED board - which is a HUGE improvement on Lord of the Rings. You could use anti-ghosting LEDs, but my guide is not built around those.

So, onto the graphical map! Photos of this install will be added in a later post
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#3 2 years ago

And here we go! This is with Titan Comp Silicon Rings, Cointaker LEDs, and a OCD LED Board. Let me know what you think of the final product!

The exposure has been tweaked a bit to try to get the digital cam to look true to life

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Let me know what you think!

#4 2 years ago

Very nice! Thanks for sharing.

#5 2 years ago

Stunning job of blending bulbs of color and brightness to work WITH the Art, rather than fight it, change it, or over power.

It is my favorite way to light a game, and takes practice.....but because of your choices...Great Job, IMO!

What I hope gets noticed is one difference to share.
Some games, not this, have different plastic inserts in size...big rectangles....cuts.... faceted, arrows, etc., and these can benefit from brighter bulbs. Same for GI.

Thanks for taking the time to do this and share.

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Stunning job of blending bulbs of color and brightness to work WITH the Art, rather than fight it, change it, or over power.
It is my favorite way to light a game, and takes practice.....but because of your choices...Great Job, IMO!
What I hope gets noticed is one difference to share.
Some games, not this, have different plastic inserts in size...big rectangles....cuts.... faceted, arrows, etc., and these can benefit from brighter bulbs. Same for GI.
Thanks for taking the time to do this and share.

Yup... I don't like the 'clown puke' outcome... and changing the overall tone/setting of the game is risky and can be very polarizing. Some come out very very nice, others.. no so much. I was hoping for just a pinch of spice here

On the bulb choices.. yes! This is a balancing act of cost and need.. as well as the aesthetic output. I did not outline it in the maps on 'why' I used a bulb, but there are certainly experiences we can all share. My starting rules now are.. (using cointaker terminology)

- For inserts, my default choice is a Mini
--- If it's an arrow, I will default to a frosted led
--- If its a larger insert, mini vs frosted will be something to test and pick the best look
--- If it's green or blue insert, use a frosted instead of a mini due to low light levels leading to uneven outcome
--- If the socket is parallel to the insert, I will default to a frosted. Depending on the physical arrangement, a flex may be needed
--- for very large inserts, 2 headed Flex could be required, but this would be based on other types failing to give desirable outcome. Bigger inserts would likely have additional sockets anyway.. but this could be a test to see the outcome. Don't default to 2 head flexes unless needed

- For inserts where the bulb socket is to the side, or far away, a Flex LED should be test fit to see if can face the insert better than a frosted

- Avoid yellow LEDs always, and instead use a warm white LED if lighting a insert

For lights that are visible above the playfield, my default choice is a Retro
--- For specifics that you want more light, consider a 2 LED

For flashers, its driven by the socket location relative to the feature. Flex heads are common and most adaptable. I only use flat head flashers in very directional applications. 5 LED flashers by default, substitute flex depending on the physical install

- For colors, I will default to matching the LED to the insert with the following exceptions
--- yellow LEDs are way too orange, use a warm white instead
--- warm white vs cool white is a style choice.. I drive it by the color tone of the game and if you want a retro, warm white look.. or bright white, blu-ish tone

For the games I've done, I've defaulted to using OCD LED because of the control it offers vs buying anti-ghosting LEDs.

#7 2 years ago

Nice job. I especially like the clear Titan competition silicone rings.

Don't forget the flashers for the Balrog and the Ringwraith, both of which are above the playfield.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from Razorbak86:

Nice job. I especially like the clear Titan competition silicone rings.
Don't forget the flashers for the Balrog and the Ringwraith, both of which are above the playfield.

Balrog I left out specifically because its already been replaced with a LED (Stern did it ages ago as a kit)
The Ringwraith is a red 906 that is fully exposed. I've not seen a LED flasher that I'd like in that position yet. Plus it is a slow pulse light in the game. A stark LED flash would feel off.

Both are noted on the spreadsheets as intentionally omitted. (Edit: thinking I might have forgot those notes when I wrote them... grr.. too much stuff late at night ). Will fix soon.

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

The Ringwraith is a red 906 that is fully exposed. I've not seen a LED flasher that I'd like in that position yet. Plus it is a slow pulse light in the game. A stark LED flash would feel off.

I used Comet's 9-SMD Tower Flasher (#906) above the Ringwraith, and covered it with a red condom. It looks great and works great in slow pulse mode.

2 weeks later
#10 2 years ago

What bulb did you use for the color changing Palantir Globe and who carries these? Thanks

2 years later
#11 7 months ago

I used these maps and guide to add Titan silicone rings and LEDs to my LotR. I want to thank the OP for it but I do have a correction.

The map lists the shooter lane lights as 555 sockets but on my LotR they are 44/47. I used Retro Warm Whites there. For anyone new using this you should check as you may need 9 RWW4 bulbs instead of MWW5.

Along with an LED OCD, the game looks fantastic.
I used all Cointaker LEDs... This is very tasteful styling that doesn't sacrifice the game experience. Couldn't be happier with it. All I'm wondering now is if a GIzmo is worth it for the GI?

#12 7 months ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

I used these maps and guide to add Titan silicone rings and LEDs to my LotR. I want to thank the OP for it but I do have a correction.
The map lists the shooter lane lights as 555 sockets but on my LotR they are 44/47. I used Retro Warm Whites there. For anyone new using this you should check as you may need 9 RWW4 bulbs instead of MWW5.
Along with an LED OCD, the game looks fantastic. This is very tasteful styling that doesn't sacrifice the game experience. Couldn't be happier with it. All I'm wondering now is if a GIzmo is worth it for the GI?

2 months later
#13 5 months ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

The map lists the shooter lane lights as 555 sockets but on my LotR they are 44/47. I used Retro Warm Whites there. For anyone new using this you should check as you may need 9 RWW4 bulbs instead of MWW5.

This is also true for my LOTR, mfg. date 12/2003. Nine 44/47 bayonet lights in shooter lane, not 555.

Thanks to OP @flynnibus for summarizing your plan and work, and thanks to @ktownhero for pointing out the shooter lane differences. I'm looking to replace all rubbers on my game (black is starting to smear), and to continue the LED conversion started by the previous owners. This guide will help.

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