(Topic ID: 151027)

Lead free solder can kiss my arsh

By Det_Deckard

8 years ago


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  • 28 posts
  • 19 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by Haymaker
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #9 8 years ago
    Quoted from Gizza:

    I've always felt that old solder was much better flowing than the new stuff. Being in Europe, what are my best options for good solder? Is all lead free solder bad or are there good brands? What should I look for?

    If you require lead free, you should look for SAC alloy solder, it has the best rework characteristics. Make sure you are using the right soldering temperature: 371-427°C (700-800°F) Yes, it is more difficult to solder lead free - it just isn't the "same animal" as conventional solders. It isn't impossible, it's just different - and requires different techniques to hand solder properly. Adding additional liquid flux will help the process as well, try Kester 186 Mildly Activated Rosin Flux

    http://www.kester.com/products/product/285-Flux-Cored-Wire/
    http://www.kester.com/products/product/186-Flux-Pen

    #13 8 years ago

    Most early pins will be soldered with products containing lead. These are best reworked using a product containing lead.
    I am not certain what modern pins are/were manufactured using lead free products. I would suggest the best rule of thumb would be to stick with lead based for rework except where your own situation requires it...For example, our business requires a separate rework station for each. No sharing of lead and lead free supplies or tooling between the two. If your situation or your personal feelings about the environment, health, etc... require you to use a lead free product, you are going to need to learn the differences in techniques and supplies for lead free soldering.

    I solder Pb-free for things at my job, because that is what is required there...but at my home for my pins I use standard solders containing lead.

    #24 8 years ago

    Tin whiskers are more commonly a manufacturing issue than a repair issue. If you buy a pinball manufactured entirely lead free, you can repair it with either type of solder and you will hardly have an effect on the possibility of tin whisker formation. My advice is to use what helps you to get a good, solid electrical joint and if lead is an environmental or health concern, or if the facility you work in requires it, you'll have to learn how to lead-free it the best you can. But, if you let the tin whisker phenomenon guide your choice, you might just make a crappy joint that results in a problem in the near-term - long before the possibility of tin whisker formation can ever crop up.

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