Lawmen are all a little crazy. oh, you meant the pin...
I would go through the pin, and clean/lube all the steps, tighten switch stacks, clean/adjust switches etc...
if the player unit was gunked, so are the rest of them...
how are the coin switches?

Sounds like something not right with that player unit. Check that again.

No, Lawman, no!

Lawman going nuts

That is a fiber contact board, and it needs to be adjusted correctly, or...expect headaches.
The big ratchet gear shud have a peg on it that stops at a cup on the bracket. it needs to be there to be truly "HOME".
Then remove the spider, loosen screws so it just moves with a twist, then put the spider on, and align ALL the contacts, meaning move it manually through its step positions, and when it all looks good, remove spider and tighten screws in the fiber board, lube and replace spider.
I dont have that pin, but suspect if coin switches are bent it cud cause a constant signal to the coin relay, etc.
on am EM pin, NEVER assume something cannot interfere with something else.
ALWAYS look over EVERYTHING!
99% of EM problems start with " that LOOKS ok"

ok, I assume we are talkin bout a regular step/down unit.
the big coil steps up. and small coil steps down, or returns to home. the ratchet gear has a clock spring on it to return to home.
each time the big coil fires, it moves the ratchet gear forward one step. then levers hold it there.
you can move the unit one step at a time by moving the arm towards the coil. the rivits shud line up on each step.
same thing in reverse with small coil, or it zips back to home.

Did you completely remove the fiber board/wiper or just loosen screws? There are 3 ways to mount the wiper. 2 out of 3 runs into big issues...

The unit in the back box with only one coil is prob the match unit? guessing, that needs to work properly too.
does it have a bell hangin from it?
or, it may be the player unit??? thats a Gottlieb rite?
I dont have that pin, but sounds like one or the other.
If that is the player unit, it can be a bear to work with. lots goin on there.

The player unit, as well as trip/latch relays are part of the reset sequence. So, yes, if a reset was started and never finished, it will take up where it left off when you re-apply power.

Sometimes, when in the middle of reseting, you can manually step the player unit step up plunger a few times and get it to a point where it will take over and go back around to player 1 ball 1. But there is a lot involved in this style reset sequence going all the way through.

But turn it on, try stepping the plunger a few times, if it takes over and then ends and goes to game over, try starting another game. Remember, instead of hitting the coin switches or start button, you can always manually push the START relay in to begin a new reset sequence.

When the player unit step up ratchet is at rest, do the wiper fingers (spring loaded ice skate looking contacts) sit centered on the round rivet heads on the bakelite disc?

He's removed the wiper and probably put it back wrong. Manually stepping the player unit you should be able to find player 1 ball 1 by the lifters then orient the wiper according. The outer wipers do ball in play, the inner wipers will do 3rd ball/5th ball.

player_(resized).JPG

For a Player Unit, at the "reset" position the first and fifth cam switch stacks will both be lifted by their respective cams.

And that wiper disc should be nominally centered in the adjustment grooves; shouldn't need to have it cranked all the way to one end of the slots.

Then the trick is getting the wiper back in the correct orientation. The problem with marking is that if the cam moves/steps during cleaning, then the relative positions are all off.

Here's a ~'76 Player Unit cam in the reset position with the wiper.

2014Dec07_058_(resized).JPG

Since the Start relay keeps energizing, that suggests that there's maybe a stuck coin mech switch (so it's stuck trying to coin up/start a game).

Also, one of the black, cloth-covered wires on the Player Unit wiper disc appears to be disconnected.

Otherwise, look on the schematic for the score motor symbol ('M' in a circle), and read left to right to see all the switches that can cause it to run, then see which are closed. So for example, you'll probably see that a switch on 'S' will cause it to run, and since 'S' is energizing, the score motor keeps running. Then you find the 'S' relay on the schematic and see what causes it to energize (and you'll see that things like a coin chute switch will). The 'coin chute' switches are the ones on the coin door that are inside/below the coin rejecters (easier to see if you pull out the coin rejecter mechs).

It's not a ground wire, it's the wire that bridges the signal between the two "snowshoes" (as Gottlieb calls them).

No, it wouldn't. That was just a collateral observation in the video. That would have caused a problem reaching Game Over though (when it gets that far).

Is the Start relay still energizing repeatedly?

I'm not sure Lawman has an AX or BX relay, being a '71 game.

Post a schematic snippet of the path to the Start relay and one of the path to Add Player Unit.

So the Control Bank isn't resetting? (this is the relay bank at the front of the cabinet, in the bottom)

Manually reset it, then turn the game on and see what happens (this should prevent it from running when just turned on). Then when you start a game, the Start relay (S) should trip, the score motor should run, the SB relay should trip, the score reels reset, the Player Unit reset, then the Control Bank should reset to complete the reset sequence.

But it looks like the Control Bank isn't resetting, so that's going to be one of the switches along the path to the Control Bank Reset (bottom of the schematic). SB Armature switch not closing is a common cause, but could also be the P5A switch, or the score motor 4C switch. And also make sure the fuse for it is good. Might check the fuse first actually.

(And the 'S' relay is about 3 inches away from your finger in the first picture.)

Since the Start relay is continuously energizing, that still really suggests that one of the coin chute switches is stuck closed, or is shorted against something (which I think is where we were a month ago). Or the replay button is stuck closed. That's also why it keeps trying to add a second player too.

What's on the coin door? Are all the mechs present?

Something is giving it a continuous start, so look at the trip wires for the coin chutes, the replay button, stuff in that area that could be touching or shorted.

Is the coin door Jones plug unplugged?

I don't always trust continuity testing, since there can be "back channel" paths present, unless/until the other 'end' of the circuit is disconnected (i.e., an open switch can still show continuity because it's find a path all the way back around to the other side the long way).

But I see that the coin mech brackets are still present. Can you post some pictures of those and the switches in them?

When you power the game up, does it immediately start try to start/reset? If you unplug the coin door Jones plug, then does it stop doing that?

Ok, so then that further confirms the issue is with the start circuit being stuck. I'd guess it's one of the coin mech switches stuck closed, or maybe the lockout wire shorted to one of them.

Tuck the fishpaper back underneath the trip wire on the mech closest to the hinge. (So it matches the one on the left.)

Excellent. Have fun playing it.