Last Action Hero Magnets Not Working

(Topic ID: 211984)

Last Action Hero Magnets Not Working


By JKaiser123

8 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 74 days ago by woodmedic
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 8 months ago

I just purchased a Last Action Hero and I noticed the playfield magnets were not working during multi-ball and confirmed this in the diagnostics. I noticed under the playfield each magnet has a fuse in a block located near them. All 3 fuses were burned on mine. I pulled them out and they were 2a 250v slow blow fuses. It seems like the game uses mostly 5a so I'm not sure if the 2a are correct. Does anyone know if the 2a are the correct fuses for that application? Anyway I replaced all 3 fuses with the same 2a slow blows and the magnets worked again! For a few games at least... Until it burned all 3 fuses again. Looking around a bit I see that this can be a common issue. Namely it looks like people had issues with the magnets burning out the F9 fuse which also controls the ripper. Mine is not doing that its just blowing the 3 under the playfield fuses. I see a few people used a Clays guide to modify the magnet board by replacing the mofsets and adding a cap on the IC chip but I can't find the guide anywhere. I would appreciate any assistance in getting my magnets working again!

#2 8 months ago

for what i remember, should be 3A SB... but better waiting more to be sure

edit correction : found it back here on pinside, its 3A SB

#3 8 months ago

3 amp is correct. I also purchased a new magnet board from Great Lakes Modular.

#4 8 months ago

Great thanks the previous owner had 2a installed so I'm going to put 3a SB in. I am also going to add a .22uf cap between pins 11 (clock) and 10 (ground) to see if that works. If not then I am going to grab some IRL540 mosfets from Great Planes and see if replacing those helps.

#5 8 months ago

I had some magnet trouble on my LAH as well, you maybe lucky because if it's blowing the below pf fuses then it's likey the transistors on the magnet board are shorted. If you do change the board and it does not fix, then it may be one of the PIAs on the driver board. I ended up swapping out the driver board.

#6 8 months ago

The magnets on LAH have a tendency to get locked on as you've seen in other posts, I would double check that isn't happening in yours before you put a heavier fuse in and the magnets get even hotter before burning the fuses out. Mine was doing that too before I put all new parts and did the modifications like you said on that little control board under the playfield but when mine got locked on it got the playfield really hot. Just don't want you to burn your playfield by putting heavier fuses in before checking the easy stuff.

#7 8 months ago

I had one magnet read ok , but would lock on even with new bosrd. New magnet installed and all good.

#8 8 months ago

Great advice everyone thank you. I may just perform the board mods before installing the heavier fuses just to be safe like you said. Will report back with the results.

1 month later
#9 6 months ago

Just wanted to leave an update and close this conversation. Sorry it's been so long was in a bad car accident and was recovering. I added a .22uf cap between pins 11 (clock) and 10 (ground) on the 74HCT273 chip and then I replaced the P20N10 mosfet with IRL540 mosfets from Great Planes. I changed all 3 fuses to 3A SB and the game workes like a champ now. We played all evening and the magnets are still going strong and no blown fuses. Thanks for the assistance everyone!

4 months later
#10 74 days ago

Dumb question but does the polarity matter on this .22 cap on the IC? I would assume that the ground goes to ground but wanted to make sure.

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