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(Topic ID: 261196)

Last Action Hero line of coils not working but others are


By itobandito

8 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 months ago by itobandito
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    #1 8 months ago

    So the primary shot coil stopped working (this was replaced maybe 2 years ago) it would try to shoot the ball weakly then it wouldn't try at all. This happened in a span of 5 minutes (was previously working fine). THen I noticed all the coils in that line weren't working either, right flipper, left flipper, VUK, Ripper whole and so on. Cabling looked ok, and all fused tested fine (in circuit) I noticed that the CN1 connector was a little toasty so I pulled it and one of the pins from the PS board came off with the molex. Reflowed the pin and its in there pretty strong now. Doesn't seem to of fixed the issue. Any thoughts?

    #2 8 months ago
    Quoted from itobandito:

    all fused tested fine (in circuit)

    Too cool !

    Now test them out of circuit to get an accurate reading.

    LTG : )

    #3 8 months ago

    I believe those coils you mentioned are powered by 50 volts. So the issue may lie in the 50 volt power circuit.

    #4 8 months ago

    Yeah all fuses out of circuit tested good as well. Yeah I believe they are 50V related from what I was reading up on. Just not sure what I should be looking at or what to test.

    #5 8 months ago

    They are daisy chained IIRC

    Make sure they all are connected

    #6 8 months ago

    Did you check fuse F5 on the playfield power board? This is the origin of the 50v circuit.

    #7 8 months ago

    Yeah I checked the F5 again just to be sure, pulled it and it tested good. THen I tested it in the fuse holder on the PPB too and it is good. I looked at the wiring and some of those coils do share a yellow violet wire but the flippers do not. looked at all the daisy chained wires and they seemed ok, did some tone testing with them. Not sure what else to test.

    #8 8 months ago

    Did you look at the back of the board for burnt/lifted traces?(The one board you replaced the header pins that came off when you removed the connector).Also check for continuity on those traces and continuity from the traces to the header pins

    #9 8 months ago

    Check PPB J4 for 50 volts AC. Black wires with yellow stripe. Your multi-meter Red lead on pin 1 or pin 3. Black lead on pin 4 or 5. This is where the AC voltage from the transformer comes into the PPB.

    #10 8 months ago

    will take another look at that trace and test that 50V AC on J4 tonight! Thanks guy!

    #11 8 months ago

    Ok I figured it out. First I want to thank everyone for helping me with this and apologies for being a newb with terminology. Still have some questions for myself and any people researching similar issues in the future. My issue was with the F5 fuse which I think may of been taken out by that bad solder joint on CN1 pin. I discovered this when testing the PPB J4 connector. When I was testing this I wasn't getting good voltage but when testing it I noticed the J5 fuse underneath the wires for that connector which I hadn't noticed before. When F5 fuse was mentioned earlier, I was testing F5 on the main power supply which is different than the PPB (Playfield Power Board). Now I know the difference. I've attached some pics and questions below. (PIC1 and PIC2)

    Here is a pic of the burnt pin on CN1 that lift out when I removed the connector, I have since resoldered and reflowed all the connector pins. (PIC 3 and PIC4)

    Now I noticed on the main power supply a bulge is present on the back of the PCB. Just looked a little suspect, none of the caps are exploding and I don't think even if they did, they would cause a bulge like this on the back of the PCB. It is only noticeable on the back. Is this normal? Should I replace it? Was looking at a Rottendog replacement, does anyone recommended or not recommend them? (PIC5)

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    #12 8 months ago
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    #13 8 months ago

    The bulge is a non issue, its just the foil not sticking anymore. Pin 12 of CN1 is a very important ground pin.It should be replaced as well as the female pin inside the plastic connector. Complete wafer connector and the mating plastic connector repair kits are available through Great Plains Electronics and other sources. If pin 12 is badly tarnished or burnt you can borrow a UNUSED pin from CN2. This trick may work good enough for awhile. Sooner or later this overheated pin will cause problems. Don't use sandpaper to try to clean it,you will only make matters worse. Good luck.

    #14 8 months ago

    If you replace the F5 fuse and it blows again you may have a bad bridge rectifier (BR1). The gray square thing next to the fuse.The fuse is there to protect the transformer from things such as a bad BR1. Look up how to test bridge rectifiers.Rather easy if you have a multimeter with diode test capabilities.

    #15 8 months ago
    Quoted from mikat11:

    The bulge is a non issue, its just the foil not sticking anymore. Pin 12 of CN1 is a very important ground pin.It should be replaced as well as the female pin inside the plastic connector. Complete wafer connector and the mating plastic connector repair kits are available through Great Plains Electronics and other sources. If pin 12 is badly tarnished or burnt you can borrow a UNUSED pin from CN2. This trick may work good enough for awhile. Sooner or later this overheated pin will cause problems. Don't use sandpaper to try to clean it,you will only make matters worse. Good luck.

    Yeah I was thinking that too about the foil bulge however that bulge is actually really hard like there is something under it. Great tips about the connector I tried cleaning the burnt pin with a qtip and 99% alcohol which helped some but it is still bit dark so I will most likely replace it. So far the fuse has held so I think I am good. Thanks everyone!

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