I don't have the game but the top rollover lanes use two styles of posts. One clear plastic
and the other the smaller cylinder metal post. You have to examine the playfield dents
to see which post goes where.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider vec-tor.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
I don't have the game but the top rollover lanes use two styles of posts. One clear plastic
and the other the smaller cylinder metal post. You have to examine the playfield dents
to see which post goes where.
Quoted from lpnsocal:I checked to see if I could adjust the the lowered target elevation, but it appears there are no slotted holes for adjustment. Am I missing something? I know I can McGiver a fix using the target reset arm.
There should be an "L" bracket to one side of the drop target bank.
You have to loosen the two hex head screws mounted on the side of the
"L" bracket. Then, adjust the reset plate by turning the other hex head
screw (mounted on the face of the main drop target bracket and screws
into the face of the "L" bracket ). When satisfied with the height of the
dropped drop targets, tighten the two side screws on the "L" bracket.
If the five bank drop target assembly was replaced with one that was used
in the Simpsons pinball then, there are no adjustments; You got robbed.
Note: make sure you have the spring wire form on the back of the "Do Not Hit"
plate.
------
Check your switches to the crane alignment and VUK assembly and outhole
assembly. Can not tell what is happening unless you can post a video.
The micro switch wire form could have come
from the spinner assembly.
Check wires and switch contacts for the
drop target assembly.
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:those initials that show up seem to be the factory default?
Yes! they are the people involved with the
design of the game.
Quoted from TheCapn:once you lift the PF up about a foot you should be able to pull the PF towards you which will allow it to slide on the rails and then you can make it up upright (Requires some tug).
When putting the playfield back, I slightly lift the back end up
in order to get over the "hump" of the side rails.
( clasp the back playfield by reaching around over the back wall )
Quoted from Pesmerga:I've tried to do like this but it seems to be blocked in the lower part by the pieces of wood on the cabinet side. Also I don't see any blocking system like in bally Williams. What would prevent the pf to slide back down??
Take a picture, and show.
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:I had found a couple light bulbs out and thinking I would be smart I looked in the manual and ordered a bunch of #44 since they were listed as such.
Pinball tip 101, never trust the game manual. Fiscally check the part
then check again and verify.
StrangeSubset1 If problem continues, you might want to replace
with upgraded part #180-5116-01 "fork tongue" microswitch assembly.
Note: On LAH VUK Assembly.
1) Need to have the ball rest on the hole on the main bracket.
2) The microswitch wire form should lay flat against the top of the main bracket.
2a) Make sure the wire form does not rub against any form of the playfield.
3) The plunger should have a slight cup at the tip. You have to use a hobby type blade
and cut it out ever so slightly and smooth out the rough edges.
4) Reassemble into the game and test. The VUK should fire the ball straight up.
Quoted from mbwalker:Anyone know what keeps the left side of the Danger sign in place? Mine seems to dangling.
Undocumented is a piano wire finger that pushes the bar assembly forward.
I had one that broke and made the bar target swing-y.
Quoted from mbwalker:my spinner is green, wonder if it's off a different game?
Williams High Speed.
Quoted from mbwalker:Any chance you can snap a pic when you get a free sec? Undocumented...I concur! Can't find any info about it! Did you fix it yourself or figure out a part number?
Quoted from mbwalker:How does it install (apologies if needed..don't mean to be a bother)?
It is mounted behind the bar target. The bottom picture shows it in the upright position.
A #6 hex washer head sheet metal screw is used to mount it.
The top bend puts a light pressure on the back of the bar target.
spec. .032 Dia. wire. +- .001
Quoted from TheCapn:I would check to make sure your fuse holders have a strong grip on the fuses. EVERY FUSE HOLDER!
Ding. ding...
Quoted from Beaumistim:The fuse holders are terrible absolutely terrible
Ding.. ding... ding...
Quoted from tonycip:I just joined the club. It's in rough condition. I don't have a lot of experience with Data East. It dose work 100 percent, but first thing that needs addressing is it's in spanish. can that be changed with the buttons inside, or do I need to change a rom? thanks .
ROMs... Data East was trying to do a thing where you'd set the dip switches on the DMD board
and the CPU would read and address the DMD in the language you set.
However, there is not enough ROM space in the DMD to hold all the languages and do graphics.
Note: pg01 is more or less stuffed with all the graphical images of fonts that are used in the game.
Finally, the CPU ROM has Strings and little things that are country specific...
There is a table that list all of the Data East distributors with phone numbers etc in the CPU ROM.
Get the last revision software for the CPU and the DMD. I think the sound ROMs are O.K.,
butt I could be wrong.
Great game.
Question, does anybody know the order of the magnets?
1) blue-vio magnet 1 --- top - left - right ?
2) blue-gry magnet 2 --- top - left - right ?
3) blue-wht magnet 3 --- top - left - right ?
4) fuse value?
Thanks.
Quoted from BenMielke:Picked this game up this weekend. Am I missing a left outline post?
[quoted image]
That is an option. Operators need to make money.
So, if you want long ball time..... add the post.
If you want the game to be challenging, leave the post out.
Quoted from Supagoat:with the game off stays down. everytime I press start goes back to normal
Post a picture of the underside of the flipper assembly.
Quoted from Triball:Hi guys,
Turned on my LAH today and the DMD was dark. Thought it could be a connector and wiggled and reset all of them. No joy.
A smell of burned electronics came from the backbox (I guess). Could not see any smoke. No blown fuses.
But the PSU-board felt really hot. Took a measurement and it showed over 200C (400F) on the large power resistor next by the capacitors. See image.
Game plays, but DMD is dark. Is that temperature normal? Anyone experienced similar fault?
A bit clueless here where to start. Don't have a spare DMD or PSU to test with.
Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]
That power supply is for 128x16 DMD. Not 128x32.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider vec-tor.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/last-action-hero-club-come-on-in?tu=vec-tor and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.