(Topic ID: 67379)

Last Action Hero club, come on in!


By Matt_Rasmussen

6 years ago



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#552 4 years ago
Quoted from ozzyzz:

Hi everyone!
I'm new here and have just bought my first pinball, LAH!
I would like to connect led buttons and bottom led light.
Anyone know If there are like a 3-way 12vdc splitter to buy?
Or how do i do the easiest way.?

I'll post links to what I used. I have LED flipper buttons, LED speaker kit, and cabinet underglow kit working just fine.

http://www.dkpinball.com/DKWP/?page_id=601

http://www.dkpinball.com/DKWP/?page_id=396

Note: This method isn't the easiest, but it is the best. You will need to get the correct male/female molex connectors and pins from pinball life or marco. I use to have it rigged to the 12v rail next to the coin door. Wasn't very stable, plus it was tacky the way I had it rigged. This is much more safe and stable.

2 weeks later
#557 4 years ago

Very doubtful that the coil is bad. Are you talking about the relay that is ON the crane that keeps the ball from rolling out or the solenoid that releases the balls from the multiball lock area?

1 week later
#560 4 years ago

Behind service/coin door next to the shaker motor there is 2 buttons you can toggle with. Depending on whether the green button is clicked in or not depends on whether you go into "Adjustments" or "Diagnostics". When you push the black button you want it to go to "Adjustments". Then just keep pressing the black button til you reach "Free Play" and it will be default set to "NO". You then hit the start button on the machine to change it to "YES". Then you can hit the black button again and it will say "Settings Saved" with the Dekker saying "Slater!!" Then all you have to do is reboot the machine.

#566 4 years ago
Quoted from ozzyzz:

Another question...
i have 4 yellow cables with cable shoes just hanging on the backside of the coin door, i guess they should be to light up the coin input plastics?, but i have no lampholder or light in it at all.. could someone post a picture of theirs and i can see what´s missing. THANX!!

Here you go.

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1 week later
#585 4 years ago
Quoted from tron1969:

Could someone post a picture of the wires going into the back of the start button please - thanks in advance

Here you go!

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#588 4 years ago

Never used FF, but i have a 600W external sub that I use for LAH and it makes a hell of a difference. This game has bass going constantly and when the gunshots fire it sounds great!

1 week later
#592 4 years ago

IF IT AIN'T BROKE DONT FIX IT!

If your ball can be launched from the flipper to up the ramp with no issues then you have enough power. If you want a faster ball, then raise the back legs up or wax the playfield. I'll try and post some pics of my machine later to give you some thoughts on things you can do with your money. For instance I recommend getting the cliffy protector set. Those two scoops in the center get a lot of 'action'. Also get you a small piece of mylar to protect the PF when the ball exits the dynamite scoop. The area on top left of the movie ticket is a common wear spot on majority of the games i have seen.

#597 3 years ago

All my bulbs for this game I bought from cointaker. I was very picky on the colors I chose and style too.

2 months later
#633 3 years ago
Quoted from osudrummer:

I have a question for you fellow LAH owners. Occasionally if the ball makes it up the ramp without a lot of speed it will get stuck in the area just before the right wireform. I have waxed the ramp but do not see how else i could adjust the ramp to prevent this. I have the game set steep with back levelers all the way up and the front down. Anyone else have this issue or ideas on how to fix?
Thanks

The lane changer is too high. Lower it to where it would touch the outer most equator or lower portion of the ball. The lane changer being too high can slow the ball and even bring it to a halt.

1 month later
#641 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballNZ:

Hi everyone
I have minimal dollar wear and was going to trim a spare slingshot mylar I have and put it on before the wear gets any worse. Obviously it is a fairly narrow piece of mylar but it should look ok.
Your thoughts ?
Thanks
Clive

The most common wear spot is the exiting area of the multiball scoop. That is more than likely your affected area, correct? Either way, try to make it aesthetically pleasing as you can. I used some touch-up pens from hobby lobby and made my wear spot look like new. Then I put a small piece of mylar over the common wear area to keep it safe. Or you can buy the printed copy of the movie ticket and place it over your current. They are available online. To answer your main question though - yes, you can put a piece of mylar over the spot to keep it from wearing further.

#642 3 years ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

Hello All,
I saw this item on ebay..... just wanting to know if anyone has installed it.
ebay.com link » Last Action Hero Cushioned High Quality Target Decals Pinball Machine Mod
These target decals for the CRANE letters, but they are cushioned. I'm not sure how I feel about this.
Sounds like a great idea but it also sound like cheating to me. What do you guys think??
Thanks,
MM
OUT

I have seen these but haven't bought them. I had to buy all new targets and decals a while back. I just put an epoxy over my stickers to keep them from getting worn. The small flakes on the bottom are from the usual crap that a ball will gather over time. Cleans off nicely.

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4 weeks later
#651 3 years ago

Did anyone make it to the TPF and get a chance to play my LAH? The guy from pinball magazine requested to take pictures of it - so my machine might be in the next issue. That would be cool.

2 weeks later
#653 3 years ago

Good job, Jesder. Looks like you lucked out on a PF without wear on the movie ticket.

4 months later
#678 3 years ago
Quoted from Kratogen:

A ball gets stuck on the ramp behind the crane almost every single game. I think the gate switch might be a little stiff, combined with a dirty ramp might be causing the issue. Anyone else experienced this?

1. Check the switch like you suggested.
2. Clean the ramp and balls
3. Make sure the ramp is installed correctly. (properly angled and nothing is causing an unnecessary hill)
4. Is your game angled high enough? (Increase the back legs height)
5. Is your ramp slowing the ball due to warping ramp? (squeezing the ball)
6. Is your game leveled on the "X" axis? (download the pinball leveler app on your mobile device to check your level from left and right)

Try these suggestions and let us know what your results are.

2 weeks later
#686 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballshark:

Does anybody know where to get a replacement gearbox for the crane?
One of the screws came loose that hold on the cam arm causing it to bind and strip the gearbox.

This link is from another thread on Pinside.

http://provider1.cart.net.au/epages/mrpinballtrial.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/mrpinballtrial/Products/515-5857-00

3 weeks later
#689 3 years ago

Please show us how the cab looks afterwards. My cab is in great shape, but was curious about these.

1 week later
#693 3 years ago

It's on the shaker motor board. Just like the diagram states.

1 week later
#701 3 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Thanks for your answer! Any advice on the problem? The game boots with the GI only and no Led light up on the CPU..

No boot? You aren't getting 5v to your mpu.

1.Check all fuses (not just visually, use your multimeter)
2. Once all fuses are verified and good - check your voltages at your power supply test points.

Data East games are known for having crappy fuse holders. You may have a cracked or sloppy connection.

2 weeks later
#703 3 years ago

First LAH with powder coated rails like mine that I have seen. You are missing the "Admit One" plastics on your outlanes. I like how your data east is yellow and black. I may do mine like that now. Mine is currently down for repairs....

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#706 3 years ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

Does anybody have the alternate translite in a high res picture format file?

Doubt anyone has that except the person that made it. Either someone that owns it can scan it in for you or you can buy it via ebay. It's usually $100.

#708 3 years ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

I do not need the printed one, only the file. It's simply the movie poster but I do not have the poster either in high quality. A scan would be nice! Can also be in parts, I'll stitch it together by myself...

Honestly, I didn't realize that the alternate was the movie poster. lol. Looks like I can get the movie poster in 'good enough' resolution and use some photoshop skills to recreate it. When I get some spare time I'll see if i can do it and post here if done. Otherwise, good luck on someone having the files you need.

#709 3 years ago

lol. I was bored and gave it a shot. Here is mine. Pretty damn close to the alternate. What you think? I have it at 26.5'' x 22.5''.

LAH alternate translite (resized).jpg

1 week later
#713 3 years ago
Quoted from Scott2dot0:

Hi all, I'm a proud new member of the club. I picked up my LAH a within the past week and have replaced the DMD (had a line out that wouldn't go away), added Cointaker Super LEDs and added a remote battery holder. The game is a blast!
A couple quick questions. I want to update to the latest ROM but I don't know why (LOL). Is there anything that shows the improvements 1.12 has over the original? I searched and came up empty. Hopefully it eliminates the "come back later" that I seem to get nonstop. A timed ball saver would be great too. When updating the ROM do I also need the sound and display files that are being sold?
I'm missing the spinning thing (flag?) between the left and middle scoops. Anyone know where to get one or at least what it's called so I can search?
Anyone have a good source for the topper? I can't seem to find one.
I don't have the shaker motor either. Would you say it's worth the 100 bucks? Does it make the game?
Thanks in advance!

First off, welcome to the club! As far as updating the roms goes - I currently have older versions and game plays fine. I haven't even bothered to see what the updates do. lol. I do know that when you do update the roms you need to have all the roms (mpu,sound,display) the same. Having different revisions can have intermittent affects. If you are getting "come back later" nonstop then you may have a switch issue with the multiball scoop. The shaker motor is probably gone cause it was going off constantly when that switch is activated. Go into your diagnostics and go through the switches to see which ones are malfunctioning. When game is at rest the only switches that should be active are: Crane, Trough 1,2,3,4,5,6. Any other active switches and you have an issue. The missing spinner between the scoops is gonna cause you to miss points, but isn't essential to any mode. Replacing it may be a challenge. The topper replacement is going to be even harder. If you at least want the police light effect. You can buy some police lights off of amazon and wire them, but replace the bulbs with led or you will blow a fuse. As far as the shaker motor goes - it adds to the feel of the game, but not a necessity. When I take my game to shows I turn it off.

3 weeks later
#719 2 years ago

Take the glass off aND check to see what other coils aren't firing. They should coincide with the same fuse. More than likely it's the fuse. Like the previous posts. Data east fuse clips are horrible.

#721 2 years ago

all fuses on the solenoid board are 5A slo blo. If its only the shooter that isn't firing then you may want to examine the coil to make sure its connected properly. One fuse doesn't ONLY power the shooter lane. When you pull the trigger does it make the sound in the game as if you fired the ball? If so, the switch is good. Just the coil communication is bad.

#723 2 years ago

You savvy with a DMM? If so an easy way to check fuses without having to pull them out is to put it on the resistor setting. Measure the fuse from end to end with the dmm. If you get any reading (0.01+) it is good. If you get nothing (---) its bad. Like most have said. You may have a bad fuse or your fuse clips are not getting a good connection. I would pull the board and check them. If nothing else, grab the fuses one at a time and see if you have any giggle in the slots. if the fuse moves or comes out with ease - replace the clips! I have had fuse clips that look like they are intact, but they are literally there just for looks.

#728 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballHog:

Hey guys any help would be great. I just bought a LAH that a guy took everything off the playfield to clean and wax, never got to cleaning and waxing it, so I have the game and 2 boxes of parts. He lost the photos he took. Does anybody got some detailed photos you could share with me that you took as you were clearing your playfield? Please PM me and I'll get you my email or cell number. Thanks for any help.

I can get you photos when I get rid of the machine that is currently blocking my LAH. My LAH is down for repairs anyways so now would be a good time to get photos for you.

4 weeks later
#749 2 years ago
Quoted from kba78:

Hey everyone, I am trying to put together a last action and someone cut a connector of the playfield harness. Could someone post a picture of connector j-8 on the ppb. It's in the lowest row of connectors behind the speaker panel. Strangely, the schematic is written for Jurassic park and doesn't give all the same wires.
Any help would be much appreciated

Here you go buddy. Man, I got some catching up to do on this forum...

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#750 2 years ago
Quoted from lpnsocal:

I found the "L" bracket(that I missed previously ) and adjusted the target elevation. The 2 crane limit switches work as they should. The VUK circular wire form switch was not perfectly centered, so I fixed that and checked that a ball actuates it reliably. I also made sure the VUK coil is firmly held in place as it had a little slop.
I guess a few games are in order to check results. Big Thanks for the direction and I'll post final outcome of the repairs/adjustments.

Is your shaker motor going? Strange things can occur if the shaker motor is going. Any loose solder on switches will cause a number of odd issues. Try turning off the motor in the settings and see if it still occurs.

#753 2 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Hello guys I was trying to access to the underside playfield but i'm not able to put it full raised up and under rest (on the backbox).
How i'm supposed to do it on this data east pin? It is so easy on Bally/williams!

once you lift the PF up about a foot you should be able to pull the PF towards you which will allow it to slide on the rails and then you can make it up upright (Requires some tug). If you are still unable then you may want to make sure your cables are not snagged on anything. Sometimes the cable covers (black shielding) is mounted to the backbox by a screw and zip tie. Make sure you have enough slack.

#758 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

When putting the playfield back, I slightly lift the back end up
in order to get over the "hump" of the side rails.
( clasp the back playfield by reaching around over the back wall )

I only lift the back end when putting the PF back in.

Quoted from Pesmerga:

I've tried to do like this but it seems to be blocked in the lower part by the pieces of wood on the cabinet side. Also I don't see any blocking system like in bally Williams. What would prevent the pf to slide back down??

Yes, we would like to see some pics or even a video to assist further.

1 week later
#774 2 years ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

I thought I had read this here somewhere, but after rereading the entire thread and 772 post, I can't seem to find it anymore.
Here is my issue. The ball sometimes gets stuck at the VUK on the top right. The one that shoots it onto the ramp or crane if in place.
The coil works, tests fine and probably 2-3 times fires fine, but 1 out of 3 times it simply sits there and does nothing. This seems to happen more often in multi ball mode. I have to wait an easy 20 seconds for the ball to go into missing ball mode and fire all the coils for it to be ejected. This is particular bothersome in multi ball mode, since the VUK gets blocked.
Any help is appreciated.

I would check the solder joints on the switch. May not have a good connection. When multiball is active so is your shaker motor which can vibrate any loose connection you have in the game.

#783 2 years ago

Just ordered a rottendog MPU for my LAH. Anyone else have one? Looking for some reviews.

#784 2 years ago

Anyone able to give a me a high res scan of the plastic that covers the ripper coil? Coil burnt up and took the plastic with it. Would like to make a new one made.

#788 2 years ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

If nobody gets you one by Saturday I will. Can't get to it right now.

Thanks. Much appreciated.

Also, my rottendog MPU for LAH is working great, everyone.

#791 2 years ago

This is the main theme as you play.

#793 2 years ago

you may need to go into your settings under the adjustments. There is an option to turn down the background music.

#798 2 years ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

Turn down? I would assume i have to turn it up, don't I?

either way, yea. Did that solve your issue though?

#800 2 years ago

the prices of pins are going up in general due to the rise of interests. I would say that an average condition one will run $1400-$2000. Many variables apply. Including your pinball economy in your area.

#804 2 years ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

Ok here is the not so great attempt. My scanner is only letter size, and has a pretty thick border. I'll give it another shot at the office tomorrow where I have a ledger size copy scanner.
Both scans and my attempt to stitch on halfway useful version.
EDIT. Deleted the old bad ones. Here is the complete scan. Much better

Thank you very much!

#806 2 years ago

Waiting for the color DMD, myself. Currently have an XPIN LED orange in mine. Had it for about 2 years and I have 3 dots out.

#808 2 years ago

capacitor C2 on your PSU was shady. If the 5v line drops too low it will cause resets. $3 fix.

#812 2 years ago

When the crane is activated to move to the VUK location it will remain there until the VUK switch is activated. When the switch is activated the crane will begin movement and initializing the coil on the crane after 2 seconds to keep ball from rolling out. It is a time based movement. That being said. It seems like your VUK is getting the signal to launch the ball on the crane, but not telling the mpu to move the crane. Without going into a lot of hassel with mpu diagnosis lets try the simple stuff first.

1. Go into switch test and make sure your crane switches are working properly. Make sure that when it reaches the VUK that it is being detected that its there. One of the tricky things with this machine is getting the crane trained to perfection for hitting both switches just right. Go to the crane test mode and USE THE CRANE TO CHECK THE SWITCHES. Don't just use your fingers. Let the crane do the work to make sure the crane is actually hitting the switches.
2. Look at the VUK switch itself and make sure there are no loose solder connections and that it is sound.
3. Reseat all MPU connectors (You would be surprised at how this does miracles)

2 weeks later
#825 2 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

I just got a LAH and it is missing the magnet board...I tried to contact Tony from GLM for a replacement but cant get a reply... does anybody know where I can get a GLM board or one for a stern Indy or DE LAH or GnR? I got my crane working and fixed a few other issues, just waiting for some 2n5060 pre drivers to take care of one row of lights out
Thanks
EDIT: Thanks to STRANGESUBSET1 I was able to order board from Ministry of Pinball

https://ksarcade.net/new-used-pinball-boards-parts/driver-boards/auxiliary/auxiliary-driver-solenoid-expander-520-5068-01.html

1 week later
#835 2 years ago

GET A DMM! You can't solve this issue without it.

First, check the fuse that powers the divertor. Data east has really bad fuse clips. You may have a poor connection at the fuse.

Second, check for power at the coil. Using your DMM. Attach the black to the grounding strip of the cabinet and then using the red lead tough either lugs of the coil in question. You should get a reading of 25-80VDC. If you have power to the coil move on to step 4.

Third, if no power at coil then you need to trace wire (brown/yellow) from coil all the way up stream to find the break in the connection. If you find no broken connection all the way to the PCB - CHECK YOUR FUSE and FUSE CONNECTOR.

Fourth, if you have power to the coil, but it doesnt fire in test mode then the chances are your Q27 for the divertor is shot. TIP122 needs to be replaced with a TIP102. You can test the transistor with your multimeter too. TIP122/102: Put the black lead of the DMM on the center lead or on the metal tab of the transistor. Put the red lead of the DMM on each of the two outside legs of the transistor one at a time. The DMM should show a reading of .4 to .6 volts. Any other value, and the transistor is bad and will need to be replaced.

I always replace my pre-driver while im at it. 2N4401.

Check your resistance on your coil too. Anything less than 3ohms is bad.

#843 2 years ago
Quoted from ReallifePin:

Could someone please check the wire colors on the chicken trough switch? I went to change the switch and got sidetracked and now I can't remember which wire goes on which side of the switch.
To clarify, it is the switch that activated the chicken shot not the dynamite feature trough switch. I would appreciate any help on this!
Thanks.

20170327_205946 (resized).jpg

#845 2 years ago

Got my Pinsound board going for this game. I'm making changes to the soundtrack. I'll post a video of my music selection in the future.

P.S.
For those that plan to get a pinsound board. Something you need to make aware of to the pinsound guys is that if you have an aftermarket PSU and/or MPU. This will affect the type of firmware/hardware that will be required. For some reason there is an issue with XPin PSUs and this board. Doesn't give enough voltage. So they wired up a connector to feed the board 18v - giving it plenty of juice. Then there were some intermittent issues with sound not working. They determined that was due to my Rottendog mpu and they changed the type of firmware for the card to have on it. All is good now.

#849 2 years ago

Data East games are bad about speaker hum. Couple of things to LESSEN the hum. Loosen and/or tighten the screws that hold your sound card.

#851 2 years ago

Yes. Have the game on and play with the screws on the sound card and listen for a difference.

#858 2 years ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

Are you referring to the ramp from the VUK on the top right, or the blue ramp on the left?
I had to do some serious bending of the VUK assembly to not have my ball constantly just fall back onto the pf rather than into the wire ramp.

You shouldn't have to bend anything. Possibly just the tilt angle of your game not being high enough or coil not strong enough.

#861 2 years ago
Quoted from Max_Power:

Hoping some one here can give guidance, just acquired a LAH and I that the magnets operate in test mode but not during multiball. I believe they are suppose to operate in multiball when the eye in the ticket is on or flashing. Max

Go into settings and make sure the magnets are enabled.

#864 2 years ago

You are correct...I just assumed that it would be in there with the crane and shaker motor options. If your magnets work in the test, but not in gameplay then it sounds like a logic issue with the mpu to the mag board.

#871 2 years ago
Quoted from jester523:

I joined the Club. New member on pinside, but I bought my LAH two weeks ago. It's my first machine, and it's super fun. After playing it for a bit, i've noticed some issues. I don't have any prior knowledge of pinball machines, but I tend to be pretty handy.
1. The chicken scoop does not seem to be functioning. The switch looking like it wasn't working when I manipulated it, but I also noticed it does not have a resistor attached (see pic). Every other switch I see has a resistor attached. I'm thinking about replacing the switch, but what resistor would I have to add to it? What is the function of the resistor?
2. There is this random yellow wire that is taped into a wire from the CPU board (Switch Return - See pic) and runs all the way back to the ball holder (I have no idea what it's called), soldered into the second switch from the left. Anyone have any idea what purpose that serves.
3. Multi-balls tend to be a little wonky. It tends to wait until all balls are drained, pauses, and then kicks out a fresh ball. Not sure if that's related to the goofy yellow wire.
4. The A in CRANE is not registering. The target works. I took a look at the switch and it "looked" fine, but wasn't sure how I would test that.
Other than that, the machine is running pretty good. On my list of to do's
1. Clean and wax the playfield, and plastics
2. Change non-led bulbs to LED. The stapled in ones were not changed, but all the rest are LEDs. I assume it would be best to take the plastics off from the top and change them.
3. Change all the rubbers. I'm thinking mostly orange from Titan
4. There is no spinner on the machine, so I will add one
5. The rom is 1.05, so I plan to update to 1.12. I'd like to try 1.13 but it seems I would need to burn that myself. I don't have a rom burner, so that will have to wait.
6. Change the speakers.
7. Rebuild the flippers
Sorry for the long message. Pretty excited about the project though. Should be fun!

Mother of god, what have they done to you Arnold?! lol. Your trough is gonna need a work through. Without a doubt. I have supplied photos for you to copy accordingly. Your chicken scoop is wired wrong. (the 'resistors' you speak of are actually 'diodes' and polarity is pertinent) Your A in the crane drop targets may need to be checked out too or your target is damaged from and not activating the switch. I have supplied a pic of that too for you to confirm.

First thing I would do is empty the balls out of the machine. Go into the switch edges test and check EVERY single switch on the game to deter what is and isnt working. Your multiball issue is more than likely due to your messed up wiring to the trough. Write down each switch that isnt being detected or if any are consistently being detected for that matter. Keep us posted, and welcome to the club.

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#872 2 years ago
Quoted from jonh:

Hey fellow club members, I've had my LAH for a month or so now and the left flipper intermittently stops working mid game. In trouble shooting it I found the flipper solenoid was charging and if I manually move the flipper it starts working again. Any ideas?
****Never mind, found several threads with good information to get me started*****
I'm fairly new to this and want to learn how to repair and maintain my machine properly. Is there a good book I can pick up with basic maintenance and trouble shooting procedures?

You said nvm, but I would like to throw some possibility at you. If its working 'sometimes' - chances are that its a mechanical issue. Disassemble the flipper mech, clean and reassemble. DO NOT USE ANY LUBRICANT ON THE FLIPPER ASSEMBLY! I have had to clean up after operators that use WD40 on this issue. Not fun.

#875 2 years ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

Not the correct switch as far as I know. I think you need the fork switch
http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=2273

That switch is completely the wrong item for his chicken scoop...

The parts he posted should work though instead of the out of stock item.

Glad you have found some of the issues and are working towards repairs. With this game having a shaker motor installed from factory there is a good chance you will find broken solder joints throughout the game. Your fuse holders are probably on their last leg too. Data East games are notorious for that.

#877 2 years ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

Sorry about that. Somebody in this forum pointed me to this one previously when I was looking for the VUK switch and mentioned it would be the same as the chicken scoop....sorry for the confusion and thanks for correcting me capn.

No problems. VUK, yes though. lol.

#881 2 years ago

Be nice if someone made repros of the tar pit ball lock area. Maybe even a translucent version?

#886 2 years ago
Quoted from amkoepfer:

Also, i know its a long shot, but does anyone have a spare post that goes on the left side of the ripper? Mine is gone, and im not sure the length or style. Even a pic would help. Thanks!

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4056

#887 2 years ago
Quoted from amkoepfer:

I have a question fir the club. Im working on a lah right now, and im troubleshooting the magnets. I rebuilt the magnet board, and only 1 magnet works. There is a fuse under the playfield for each magnet, and 1 keeps blowing, the other 2 are fine. Is there anything on the main board connected to the magnets that im missing? Not sure why it would blow a fuse unless theres maybe a bad transistor. By the way, its 3a slow blow fuses, i just replaced what was in them. During test i can only get 1 magnet to go, is it supposed to cycle all 3, or do you have to push a button to get the others to pulse? Any help would be great. Thanks!

When testing the mags in test mode the mags will pulse one at a time very quickly. da da da! (less than a second). If your fuse is blowing immediately on power up then your transistors for the corresponding mags are shot. VERY common problem for this game. If you have a fully working stock mag board with no issues - consider yourself lucky.

#891 2 years ago

yes, 3A slow is correct.

#897 2 years ago

I'm leaning towards the PSU caps too. With the the fact of you being able to power it on it off real quick and your boot changes. Your caps are probably not able to do their job effectively. I highly recommend a after market PSU. Little over a 100 bucks and much more efficient and reliable.

#900 2 years ago

Adjusting the crane is one of the most hated thing for me on this machine. it takes time, precision and patients. Just one screw holds that damn thing in position too. Sorry I'm not near to assist you.

2 weeks later
#918 2 years ago
Quoted from dahlman:

Hi all LAH fans!
Does anybody have a picture of their ball through ? Especially interested in the through #7 switch wiring.
Best regards
Peter

Check my post. Post #871 should be what you need.

1 week later
#927 2 years ago
Quoted from ahdelarge:

I was looking at buying a LAH pinball, but a WoZ popped up instead...I got a call for a local repair on a LAH, so it's cool that I now get to play one.
I replaced blown fuse F5 on the main power board and the game worked again....everything except switch 47 VUK in the top righthand corner. I went into switch test and this switch did not register at all. Wires seemed to be soldered on. Checked nearby connectors and they were tight. I am going to replace this with a new switch. Anything else I should be concerned about with that?
Has anyone else come across the issue of when the shaker motor activates and the crane moves, Arnie says "don't move" and a second ball is kicked out? Would this be shaking a trough switch?
Cheers!
Adam.

Before purchasing a new switch I would just use an aligator clip in switch test mode to test the switch. That would bypass the switch itself and let you know if its another issue. Also, the shaker motor causing another ball to kick out is a sign that you have loose trough switch connections. The game thinks you lost a ball too soon. The outhole switch would be the possible culprit. Data east is known for crappy solder joints. Then you throw a shaker motor in the mix and all the loose connections are amplified.

#929 2 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Quick question. For those who have 6 LED bulbs for the "RIPPER" lights, what LEDs are you using?
(normally #44 bulbs)
Thanks!

cointaker frosted yellow

4 weeks later
#942 2 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

I've noticed it often loses count of balls in play during super crane. I'll be down to 1 ball and it will still think the scene is active. Drain that last ball and it will do a ball search and auto launch a new ball into play, and the mode ends. Is this a bug others experience, or something unique to my LAH?

I would check your trough switches to make sure there isn't a loose connection. Switch edges in test mode is gonna be your friend. Verify all switches are working accordingly.

#945 2 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

to be, or not to be ? ... TO BE !

GB freeplace is just taken by LAH
of course, something completly different, but just wanted that way
even if LAH is easy, very easy (too much easy ?), as others DE from that era, with same style of play (including JP, TOMMY, TFTC)
wizard mode on my 1st game, and my son already at 887M after few games
this one is in very good shape, with topper (working), magnets (working), shaker (working), crane (working), the playfield is very nice (ticket is perfect), as the external cab is more than OK with nice colors... only the scoops are "eaten" but logical of course, its not NIB/HUO...
i'm right now trying to burn an 27c512 eprom with the 1.13 rom - tanx to Caker (got all i need, just found how to complete all the process, burn it seems a prob)
PS : got only a small prob while reassembling pin home, the half down of the GI of the backglass is not working...
checked connector, fuse, no cable cut... an idea may be ?
tanx in advance

Exactly how did you "check" the connectors, fuse, cable? Visual? Or test with DMM? The GI gonnector can have a poor connection due to burnt pins. The GI is fed directly from the PSU. Using the DMM I would see if you have current going to the bottom half of the backbox GI.

#949 2 years ago
Quoted from robx46:

I'm now a member of this club! Love the game, translite is killing me! I would love any advice on any alternate translites that might be out there. How I can get them or at least the artwork to get it printed. Thanks!

There is an alternate that is usually available on eBay for around $100. There is even a Donald Trump version now too. lol.

3 months later
#1001 2 years ago

There are two screws that you can adjust on the wire rail that connect to the PF. Also, you would be surprised at making just a small adjustment to the level of your machine can affect it too. Try putting something of equal size under your front legs. Something like coasters. See if that changes anything.

1 month later
#1034 2 years ago

In alignment with Taygeta here.

Chances are your crane is moving throughout the game via the shaker motor or nudging and its no longer pressing against the tar pit switch. Either adjust the crane or your tar pit switch. Common problem with the game. Getting that crane just right is a pain.

3 months later
#1095 1 year ago

I'm working on a video review for Pin Stadium on this game, guys. Until then here is a side by side comparison. In the video I have some need to know info. I should have it up within the next day or so.

20180227_004917 (resized).jpg

#1099 1 year ago

Pin Stadium Install and Review for Last Action Hero

1 month later
#1132 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

While playing LAH today, the music stopped as it has done before. This time the game play was OK and Arnold was not saying "I'll be back". Is the CPU going?

Check the 12v to your sound board. Is there a certain point when the music stops? (can you predict when it will occur?)

#1139 1 year ago

Rottendog and Xpin PSUs can sometimes have issues with 12v line going to the soundboard. Especially when the game starts drawing more current. i.e. Multiball. I will show you how I resolved my problem with my sound issue on this game in the future.

There is also a chance that you may just have a loose connection somewhere and when your shaker motor starts shaking - the weak connection is amplified. So, you can try disabling your shaker motor in settings, reseat all connections to the boards and see if that changes anything too.

#1145 1 year ago

In case of last resort. This will solve your voltage drop issue. Even before my Pinsound I had issues with sound dropping out. Haven't had any issues since this fix.

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#1147 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Does the PinSound stop the DE buzz? Why did you do the PinSound? Cost?

Getting an LED DMD to not use the HV line will eliminate the DE buzz. Pinsound is $350+. I bought it during a show so I got it at a discounted rate. I use pinsound because I like having a better quality soundtrack. I use the same music the game has, but instead of the MIDI quality I have the MP3 quality of the actual tracks. Plus, I added some other nice tracks to the mix. Those that played it at Texas Pinball Festival should be able to agree that the soundtrack is very nice.

#1149 1 year ago
Quoted from Kiwipinz:

Hey guys, just wondering what might cause the game to allow you to start modes without going up the ramp to turn off the Dynamite light? It has only just started happening!?

When the ball rolls over either of your inlanes it will give you temporary access to dynamite features. Instead of it being LIT it will blink for few seconds but if you nail the scoop while its blinking the feature will activate.

#1152 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

My DMD is almost new. I can live with a little buzz. SW buzz is louder than LAH. I do not play SW much though. Maybe Pinfest will have a Pinsound vendor. Thanks.

Usually the discount only applies to those that bring a machine and display the game for those to play during the time of an event.(whilst using their product)

1 week later
#1155 1 year ago

Judging by where that wire is and color. That goes to your chicken scoop switch. According to the switch matrix - switch 58 is white/red. Post #843 in this club should provide you with a solid picture.

#1157 1 year ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

When does the songs start to play on here the acdc and the rest anyone know

ACDC is part of the games soundtrack. Should play while you go through the game. Unless you are talking about the actual real audio. Then you would need the aftermarket sound board. "Pinsound" otherwise you will have the MIDI quality versions of songs.

1 month later
#1203 1 year ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

Found my problem 2 blown fuses does any local auto or homedepot see these fuses

Buy them in bulk through marco. I believe every fuse on the solenoid board is 5A slo-blo fuses. The PSU fuses have different ratings.

#1207 1 year ago
Quoted from Uofkgrad1990:

Hello, looking for opinions . . . my pin has started randomly rebooting. I checked the boards and made sure everything was plugged in well. I did notice that the 12 pin connector on the power supply was crispy/burned. The power board is still original. My question is, should I take buy new molex connector and pins and repin the connection? (Keeping in mind that I am not the best at soldering and new to working on my pin.) Or, should I just bite the bullet and purchase a new xpin-DE5047? That way the entire board is fresh, no worries about the caps and stuff needing replaced as well. Also, can I just use pliers to crimp the pins or do I really need a tool? Thanks for the advice.

Biggest culprit on that PSU is gonna be the C2 capacitor. That is your 5v. That little bastard is more than likely your issue. I have the corresponding cap marked in RED.

DE PSU2 (resized).jpg

#1211 1 year ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

Anyone have the schematics on where and what size fuses go where

All manuals and schematics are available for this game on ipdb.org

All fuses are 6.3x32mm

Capture (resized).PNG

#1213 1 year ago
Quoted from Frax:

Alright, I'm stumped, and I really don't want to start shotgunning diodes.. so check this out..
Issue only seems to occur when the right side crane position switch is closed. I thought I'd fixed this months ago but apparently not. I pulled it off and put a new diode on it as the existing one was shot and the lever arm needed adjustment. What happens is that when that switch is closed, then all kinds of WEIRD SHIT starts happening. The right flipper button will trigger the autoplunger, and also a multiball advance (without the graphics). Once the autoplunger fires enough times, then multiball is lit. Also randomly, whether or not you start multiball, sometimes the ball will just end (which is SCREAMING trough issue, I know....I'm getting there.). What is boggling me is that none of these things seem to have any commonality to them other than shared row or colum. No switch triggers another switch in test mode. No rows or columns are out. Every switch AFAIK (!) works correctly in that the game can see it open and closed when it's supposed to be.
Row/Col/Positions:
5 / 8 Right side position switch
8 / 8 Right flipper button
8 / 16 Shooter lane switch
5 / 2 Ball trough #1? ( Think one is on the left, 7 on right..I assume if there's a trough issue it's here because it will occur with only one ball out as well as multiples..)
7 / 3 Lower ball lock (Almost certain this doesn't have anything to do with the issue)
Position switch has a new diode on it, so I know it's not that. Considering possible internal issue with crane switch? Game reads it open/closed correctly though?! Bad ROMS or CPU chip? Stranger things have happened. Just wondering if anyone else has had this situation and how they ultimately resolved it...
I've already checked for:
Loose diodes on these switches.
Flipper button poking into the shooter lane switch and potentially shorting something (it's not)
Resoldered crane switch and made sure it's closing properly with where the crane stops.

If EVERY switch works correctly in test mode with no issues. Then you have an MPU issue. Of course try the simple things first. Reseat all connectors. Check for any loose/burnt pins on the connection points on the MPU. It may be a loose connection somewhere. When your crane moves the shaker motor starts making that loose connection even worse. Causing something to touch something it shouldn't. But if it is GUARANTEED to go psycho when you hit that one switch - you have an mpu problem.

1 week later
#1221 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Hey everyone. I'm going to look at a Last action Hero on Friday. Hopefully I'll be joining this club. Anyways, is there anything that I need to look for that's a deal breaker? In most ads it seems people often refer to the Crain. If this one doesn't work are part available for. Thank you for any insight on this game. They are asking $2k for it.

$2K for LAH is a good deal. Crane not working is a rarity. Not calibrated is more than likely going to be your issue. I would look for magnet burns on and under the PF. I would check for ball eject PF damage from the multiball scoop (the typical 'ticket' wear). Shaker motor present?(check for that cause sometimes people remove it). As usual you want to verify all boards are clean from burns or acid damage.

#1235 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

I got it. $1500, pretty much all the fuse are blown. Now, im replacing them to see if i can get more than PF lights
PF is dirty. A little bit of wear on the ticket. cabinet is in great shape Trans, in super sharpe. No magnet wear. Does have the shaker motor in it.However broken drop targets. Ill post some pics soon

1500 is a great price - if the boards are repairable by yourself. If ALL the fuses are blown that would draw a little concern to me. Luckily every board in the game has aftermarket versions. The only original board I have in mine is the solenoid board.

Drop targets are available too. As far as the ticket goes. I'm having trouble finding the ebay links, maybe someone else on here can find one. My time is limited right now.

#1247 1 year ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

Speaking of pinsound does anyone know of anyone programming these yet on the here I have a mac and have had no luck I would definitely pay I did download Julien version but want a more customizable sound track

I thought about uploading MY mix into the database, but I don't know the rules behind it. Licensing and all that stuff. There are a couple of people in this thread that might have played my LAH at Texas Pinfest this year, and I got some good feedback on the audio mix.

#1253 1 year ago

Thought I would share this. I have had some requests in the past about lighting the scoops. Here is how I did it. Of course this was 5 years ago when I first implemented this into the game. I would do a better job now. But, it's still working so - it it ain't broke - dont fix it. All I did was attach a light socket under the PF near the scoops and install a bendable LED to slide into position. The bulbs are powered by the same bulb that is the call out for that scoop.

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#1255 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

1500 is a great price - if the boards are repairable by yourself. If ALL the fuses are blown that would draw a little concern to me. .

Quoted from bicyclenut:

Update on my game. WHAT A BIG F'ing MESS! So I picked it up this past Saturday. The game wouldn't come on. I tested the fuses and found 2 blown fuses on the power supply, 3 blown on the driver board. I replaced them. As soon as I turn on the game most of them blow. I messed with it some more then figured it was more than i wanted to hassle with. So I took the game to my operator friend that repairs all my boards when I have issues. He is really good at the repairs. He's had it since Monday. He told me there is no power going to the main board. That the person who worked on it before i got it tried to repair the power supply and put something in backwards thus causing all this problems on the other boards. He did say there is a blow chip on the driver board too. UGH! Hopefully he gets it working soon so I can shop out the game and play it. All my parts that I needed for it came in today. Guess I should have ordered some Rottendog boards and called it good. I also want to add the Pinsound sound board. Those custom builds sound really cool. Anyways, I'll throw an update on here once i get it running. Fingers crossed it's soon.

My concern comes into the light! Like I said though. At least all the boards can be bought at a decent price. (except the MPU. Not cheap)

#1269 1 year ago

I have been in talks with CDMD about doing the color for this game, but someone has been "planning" to do it for two years now. So, either he finishes it or they pass it to me - we shall see.

Quoted from mbwalker:

Nice mod Capn. Quick question: I assume having the LED shoved up against the edge and with the curvature of the ball - the LED never comes in contact with the ball, correct?

Yes, no issues with ball movement at all. It's a nice touch. When you are suppose to hit a certain scoop the whole scoop lights up.

#1275 1 year ago

I have finally posted my Pinsound mix for LAH, guys. Not sure how long it takes for it to get "Approved" though. Those with Pinsound feel free to give it a try and let me know what you think when the download becomes available. This is the first version, and maybe the only one - depends on the feedback. Thanks.

http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/249-last-action-hero-v100-capn-mix/

#1283 1 year ago

nice looking mods on there!

#1285 1 year ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

Thanks its come along way the helicopter mod is my favorite it looks al.ost identical to the art work that and the bombs

Now you have it up for sale?! Blasphemy!!

#1303 1 year ago

Hey guys. I was expecting for Pinsound to message me when my mix went live for downloads - nope. As of 6/23/18 it is ready for downloads. I see by the download counter that it has already had a few. I'm curious if anyone here has given it a try? Issues? Suggestions? The glorious thing about the card is that you can make it your own, but I know there are others that would rather 'plug and play'.

http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/249-last-action-hero-v100-capn-mix/

#1312 1 year ago

Currently unable to test the download and the integrity. I would assume that since it took over a week for pinsound to approve the upload that they test the integrity. But this is why i wanted some feedback. Wanted to make sure everything was good. When i get home ill check it out. Pinsound shows 58 downloads, but not sure how many of those are failed attempts. lol.

#1313 1 year ago

Okay, well it would seem that my download also stops at 500MB. Weird. I have contacted Pinsound Admins of the community page and we shall see if they can give me answer. In the meantime I will upload to an external share site and see how that works out.

#1314 1 year ago

So, currently uploading to mediafire that will take all day and not even sure what the download speed would be for you guys. So, I am utilizing my google drive to share. Download speed is whatever your net can handle. When you open this link you will get an error that will warn you that the file is too large to scan for a virus. (it did for me at least) But you should still be able to download the zip file.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GqXpDO8BRvdvgMYt4NemOB-LGC38ZlM5/view?usp=sharing

Let me know if there are any issues. Thanks again guys.

P.S. The download speed through PinSound community is a total joke. 372KB? It's 2018!!

#1316 1 year ago

Okay, I have repackaged the zip folder and I have even downloaded the files and tested them myself. I have edited the link in my previous post to access the new file. Inside the zip folder are two folders "tmp" and "audio" and the config files (total of 4 items). Drag those items over to the root directory of your flash drive you are using for pinsound and it should work fine. I haven't tried the zip format being in the root directory, but if that works too someone speak up!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GqXpDO8BRvdvgMYt4NemOB-LGC38ZlM5/view?usp=sharing

#1318 1 year ago

Thanks for trying out the mix! Your next investment for that game is the pinstadium kit. I have a video review on it. Your game looks just like how my game looked before I got it. It needs it too! Check out the difference in the video:

#1320 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

does anyone have a crane ball lock ramp (blue one) for sale? Or know where I can buy one?

Dude, I hope someone does a repro on that thing too. I think a transparent one would be cool too.

#1326 1 year ago

I have 3 other machines in line before i do a auto clear on arnold. When i do my restore i plan to document it on here. Or on my youtube channel that i plan starting that is going to be strictly pinball related. Currently doing videos on an X Files im cleaning up for a customer.

#1329 1 year ago
Quoted from smailskid:

I just wanted to give a quick update on the Capn Mix for the Pinsound board.
It is really good and adds a lot to the game. I played the regular game mix, the Julian1.25 mix and then the Capn Mix in succession so I could really here the differences and this one is the best by far.
There is three main tracks that are chosen at random. One is the normal Big Guns by ACDC, the others are Symphony of Destruction by Megadeth and then a Rob Zombie song If I remember. Having the different main songs really keeps things from getting repetitive. All of the others songs are well chosen to match the modes. The songs are all hard rock/metal and fit the 80s cheese/hard rock part of the game's theme.
A couple of issues/preferences ......
1.). When the ball goes through the outlane the new Arnold phrases often play over another Arnold phrase. This also happens end of game....There will be two Arnold quotes that play over each other. I do not know if this is because I am running the version 1.13 ruleset?
2.). I do not care for the the outline callouts that are either a.) louder than the rest of the callout sounds. They just sound jarring to me. and b.) I prefer if they don't have swearing because we have a lot of little kids around. (there are a few than say bullshit or shit)
3.). I prefer Julians1.25 match sequence as it pulls the quote and background sound from the movie (the lighter, background explosions)
All in all these issues/preferences are pretty minor. I really like this mix and really recommend it to anyone that has a pin sound board for this game.
As I get to play it more I will update further. Thanks Capn!

Thanks for the feedback! All those are easy fixes and its good to get others input. Sometimes we can have things a certain way and not think of how others would react. Not to mention that things are caught that the creater doesnt catch. So, all the suggestions seem valid upon examination.

1. You may have a different version than me, but I have been on the fence with these arnold call outs from the get go. So chances are I may remove them - especially if the game rom versions will give different results.

2. /refer to #1.

3. I may need further explanation on this. From what I gather are you talking about when you begin a mode? i.e. Big Mistake - he says 'big mistake' and fires his gun? Not able to hear that? I can adjust that accordingly. Just need to give the music a delay and cresendo. Unless im wrong. So, please explain further. Thanks.

#1331 1 year ago
Quoted from smailskid:

My preference on the Arnold callouts is to remove them for whatever thats worth....
As far as 3.) where I discussed the match sequence....I mean after the game is over and Arnold says "to be or not to be", "...and hamlet is taking out the trash"..... The Julian1.25 mix grabs audio from the movie and I think it works well. You hear the lighter flick open when he lights the cigar and the explosions from the movie when he says "not to be"... check it out and see what you think.
This brings me to another point that you mentioned.....and these things are picky so take them or leave them......
1.). I would prefer a little more volume for some specific callouts just so they can be heard a bit more clearly above the din of music, explosions, guns etc. They are "Big Mistake", "Have to catch the Red Eye" and Benedicts "Have a nice day". These are some of the best callouts in the game and they often have music/sounds behind them that make them harder to hear. I don't think they need a lot more volume but definitely a bump.
2.). Also "Welcome to the Jungle" needs a bit of a volume bump to put it equal to that of the other tracks. Its a bit softer.
3.) still warming up to Bon Scott "I'm Dynamite!" instead of the lit fuse. Both are good, not sure which I prefer more at this time......
Overall this mix make the game even more fun without a doubt!
Edit -- Also check out the "Don't Move" ball save callout from the Julian1.25 mix. I think it sounds better, more organic to the game...

I'll drop the new Arnold call outs in the next revision.

1. Some delay tweaks will be added to the mode call out soundtracks.
2. Agreed. Jungle gets a bump.
3. The "Don't Move" call out I have is pulled directly from the movie and is very clear - whereas the 1.25 Julien version is barely even audible. Gonna keep the current.

I also don't have "match" enabled on my game so the "Hamlet is taking out the trash" quote never plays on mine. So, I will look into enabling it on my game.
Thanks again for the input. I hope to get this mix tweaked out.

#1337 1 year ago

PinSound Capn Mix 1.20 is in the works. These are the updates I have done so far...

Update 1.20

- Added alternative arnold call outs (no cursing) to the "Don't Touch" quote when hitting drop target bar
- Removed arnold call outs on outlanes
- Updated all intros for each mode except "Extra Ball"
- Increased volume to "Blow out" soundtrack by +3db
- Changed soundtrack to "Go to the Movies"
- Trimmed total file size from previous version down by almost 50%
- Increased volume on Multiball tracks by +3db

Have to get working on another machine for a customer, but I'll probably upload it tonight.

Capn

#1342 1 year ago
Quoted from Alwaysbrokenpins:

I just pick up up a LAH that was non working. I stripped the playfield down and cleaned it. replaced all fuse clips. New Bridge rectifiers (all). Checked all fuses. Reflowed solder.
Game boots fine and All looks well but still having a few issues.
-will not eject a ball
-when I push flippers the ball launch and the ripper solenoids fire (but activate very weakly) { <---This is the weirdest one for me }
- the ripper does not fire during the "ripper" test
- Also of note during diagnosis test:
-coil fire tests no coils fire until what seems to be one cycle has run... then the backbox lights flash once then the coil test begins again... and then only some coils fire (pop bumpers, kickers near flippers, few others).
-during lamps test. All lights display and flash during that test but the lamp "row" and "column" test... nothing happens.
So maybe a few issues going on at the same time.

Chances are you may have an MPU issue, but to help troubleshoot. I would check to see if you can manually fire each solenoid by grounding the tabs of the transistors very momentarily.Do you have any battery damage? Where the batteries sit is a common location for damage to the special solenoid section.

Capn

#1355 1 year ago

First things first.

-Verify you have correct voltage to all boards. Test points help.
-Then you are gonna need to go through this machine for possible "fixes" that people have made in the past.
-Check for taped wires.

Lets start there before we move onto switch matrix and lamp matrix troubleshooting.

#1358 1 year ago
Quoted from Frax:

Someone might be getting a LAH that's really nice for 2100 and then they can put in the work or money and have a great LAH for 2500, or just live with the crane lock not working which.....let's be honest....doesn't really affect gameplay in the slightest except causing the game to shake more and slowing down the flow.

I'm not too far from you man. Let me know! lol.

#1359 1 year ago
Quoted from Gman4737:

Hello! I posted a while back around the end of last year when I first joined. I ended up replacing some of the boards and it did fix the issue issue I was having. I replaced 520-5021-00 and 520-5047-02. I had a friend helping me and we spend hours testing fuses and replacing them and ended up resorting to purchasing new boards. I figured the boards in there were almost 30 years old anyway, and it was clear some rigging had been done lol.
Anyway, I'm really trying to learn about this stuff and I'll be honest I'm a complete noob. I just purchased Pinball Machine Care And Maintenance because I read on here it was a great resource for starting out. I also bought the physical manual for this machine as well. I know I've already made some mistakes but I really want to learn about these machines!
That being said, I would love any feedback or ideas for someone new to the hobby and ideas for customizing my machine
For this specific machine I am having some issues with the ripper. My f9 fuse blows as soon as I turn on the machine so the physical part doesn't work. Sometimes it senses when I hit the ball in and lights up for scoring but the majority of the time it does not. This machine also makes a loud buzzing sound. I've noticed around the playfield there are also a few missing nuts to fasten parts down that I'd like to find replacements for.
Sorry for the long post, again I'm new and any feedback is appreciated! Thanks!

If you have a fuse blow on start up. There is a short somewhere. If its F9(coil fuse) then the coil is probably bad. Ohm the coil and see what you get. You may even be able to tell by visual inspection. I have had the ripper coil fry before. It took the plastic above it with it though. The ripper coil is a pain to access. You need to remove the right wire rails and then you can access the plastics that cover it. The loud buzzing noise is very common among DE machines. There are ways to lessen the noise by either loosening the grounding screws to the sound board or even tightening them up. Try either way. Other than that you can look into getting an LED display which drops your HV usage and the noise is greatly reduced. For missing hardware you can purchase a misc. hardware kit from Titan_Pinball. https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=58&product_id=73 or you can check out your local hardware store.

#1365 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Question: When the crane is at rest to the left side is it supposed make contact with the switch on the Blue (ball lock) ramp all the time? Meaning keeping it closed. Or does it just hit closing it and then opening it? Mine seems to hit it and then moves slightly away from it. Do I need to adjust the crane? If so how do I adjust it? Thanks fo any help.

Calibrating the crane can be a pain. Surprisingly enough the crane is held to the rod by a single allen wrench screw. Access to the screw is found by looking into the small hole on the side of the crane. You loosen the screw and move the crane freely. The crane rests on the crane switch to the left. If that switch isn't open then the crane will move until either it IS resting on that switch or until it determines the switch is not able to be hit. Lots of times during a game the shaker motor can cause the crane to move so slightly out of position and you will hear the sound effect along with the actual movement of the crane before each ball. That is a sign that you need to adjust your crane better. Use the crane test in setup to calibrate to the best of your ability. Good luck!

#1368 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Does loosening the screw also allow you to change the light bulbs in the cab? I've been hesitating swapping those out w/LED's.

When you loosen that screw it gives you the ability to remove the crane entirely.

#1375 1 year ago

Anyone else using these in their game? The one I have is from MAD Amusements that I got years ago and its been losing transistors over the years to where I'm down to one magnet working. I'm leaning towards the PBL one due to how "beefy" it looks. I'm done repairing the current board. The current looks identical to the marco one only mine has the LEDs on board to show which transistors are working. So, looking for feedback on which I should get if you have experienced either...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/520-5068-01

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4699

#1378 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Are you running the latest v1.12 game ROM?
Have you tried adding a heat sink to each on transistor on the Mad Amusement board? I have an original magnet board that has the heatsinks on each of them. I just got my game working 2 weeks ago so time will tell how long they hold up. I had also changed to the replacement IRL540 transistors instead of the original transistor.

Yup. 1.12 version.Yea, they are all replaced with the beefier IRL540s already, but no heatsinks. Looks like the PBL version and the great lakes one has a heat disbursement going for it. Looks like great lakes is also $20 cheaper with a warranty. hmmm.

#1379 1 year ago

I'm still leaning towards PBL and using an aluminum heatsink over all 3 of them that attaches to the board.

#1383 1 year ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

Color DMD announced so pumped!!

Randy hasn't OFFICIALLY announced it. The 3rd and final hint has been revealed. All clues point to LAH. If/when the announcement is out for LAH I can give you guys more info.

#1407 1 year ago

Since it's been officially been announced. Thought I would let everyone know that the color dmd for LAH is great.

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#1432 1 year ago
Quoted from Alwaysbrokenpins:

Okay... I did not want to waste anyones time on simple stuff I could research on my own. So I dug a bit deeper on this. I was fortunate to have some spare parts from a few other DE games. I swapped out the MPU Boards and both worked fine. Swapped out 3 PPB board, one of them a known working board. As I said before Powerboard was giving good power on all test points. SO....
I was blowing the 3A fuse on F7 on all the PPB boards which installed (they all blew instantly.) This seem to result in, or it occurred at the same time of Q46 transistor blowing. (okay if I am going to be very honest here... on the last attempt I over-fused the F7 to a 5 amp and the transistor blew with a puff of smoke)
I pull up in my manual and Q46 is 1L 6-Ball Assembly Lockout and 1R Top right Police Lights flashers
So what am I looking for her in the 6-Ball Assembly area? (I will of course check the R police flasher on the top, but since they have been enclosed in their plastic for years I do not foresee a problem (unless it is with the wires leading to them.)
(Full disclosure I have recently removed a ton of parts (including the 6-Ball Assembly) when i stripped the PF down to bare wood on the topside and removed every scoop / crome part to polish. Honestly I could have re-solder something wrong or maybe my coil is bad in the 6-Ball assm???)
and I have already reflowed solder on boards and replace several related connectors on the Power board and PPB board... so I do not think I am have a connector issue.

Dude. Time to troubleshoot this shit. Start by disconnecting every connection to the PPB board. Then power the game on and off after reconnecting each molex one at a time to narrow down which portion of the game is causing your machine to short out.
Chances are you have connected something improperly after dissasembly. I would assume you took plenty of pics before doing so? If not, dont make that mistake again. At work so i cant go through my manual. Replace that Q46 first. But if you fry a transistor on power up WITH over fusing - you have done something wrong or something has a major short. If you have changed boards and get the same result [its a playfield issue]

#1436 1 year ago

Hey guys. Been working on the 1.25 mix in what little spare time I have. I have uploaded a video that is only watchable using the link below. Basically just giving a little preview to those that are on the fence about getting a pinsound card. I'm still in the testing phase here at the house, but I hope to have it ready for pinside users on this page soon. Once I get some feedback I'll put it up on the pinsound community page or make adjustments accordingly. Thanks to those that are helping with this project!

#1456 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballNZ:

Hi guys,
I did a full shop job and now I am unsure whether my ball diverter is in the right place. So when you shoot the ramp the first time does the diverter divert the ball to the right wireform ? Then if you shoot it again it should let the ball travel to the left wireform right?
All help appreciated.
Clive

Ball diverter should divert the ball to the right side. Diverter at rest should allow smooth ride to the left side of playfield.

#1489 1 year ago

Dude, your right fiipper needs to be raised. Looks like it has down syndrome. Play like that for too long you will have to re-learn how to play the game.

#1494 1 year ago

Here is Cap'n Mix version 1.20! This is for pinside users, and after I get feedback I will see about making it public on the PinSound community page. This is an uncompressed download, and all you should have to do is copy and paste the "audio folder and config.ini" items to the root of your USB drive. Thanks again for those that are trying this mix and that are giving feedback. Let's make it hapn'!

Update 1.20

- Added alternative arnold call outs (no cursing) to the "Don't Touch" quote when hitting the crane bar
- Removed arnold call outs on outlanes
- Updated all mode intros
- Increased volume to "Blow out" soundtrack
- Changed soundtrack to "Go to the Movies"
- Trimmed total file size from previous version down by 30%
- Increased volume on Multiball tracks by +3db
- Added new musical tracks
- Improved "Skill Shot" call out

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1bGd9pqMHsIHYDiVs6PIJeQkuZd7fIR3N?usp=sharing

#1500 1 year ago
Quoted from unlockpinball:

Ordered an XPin Power Supply: XP-DE5047. Hopefully this does the trick.

I have an Xpin PSU in mine. It works just fine with the CDMD, but when I installed my PinSound I had to file some complaints with pinsound with issues. Turns out that 12v issue is on XPin too - I had to jumper some cables to resolve the issue.

#1503 1 year ago
Quoted from Scorch:

Tried it out tonight.... great job on this. Much improved. The only minor thing is the skill shot phrase seems to happen too often, but other than that, I’m lovin it

lol, the skill shot happens every time you nail a skill shot (according to the game). Before and including the Julien version it still announced "skill shot". It just sounded very robotic.

#1507 1 year ago
Quoted from smailskid:

Capn you took a really good mix and made it even better. I am sure you spent a fair amount of time on this but I think it has paid off. I will give you some detailed feedback, hopfully tomorrow. In generaL the improvements you made worked out great

Thank you. The goal was to improve, but that can only happen when I get feedback from people like you. Keep it coming.

#1511 1 year ago

A couple of Pantera tracks that I was leaning towards were:

5 minutes alone
Cowboys from Hell

These tracks have some good riffs that I think would meld well with the game. Thoughts?

#1513 1 year ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

I don't HAVE pinsound so I don't really have a horse in this race but if I was to GET Pinsound, I'd like something that uses the film soundtrack exclusively. There are alot of cool songs on that soundtrack.
I love the idea of the Tesla "Last Action Hero" song playing during the Last Action Hero multiball (or M-BALL, lol) BTW, anyone got video of that?

The Tesla song plays during the activation of "Last Action Hero" mode. There are tracks throughout the mix that are from the movie in the mix too. As far as an exclusive mix goes - there are only so many songs in the movie and there are more modes than songs. There are also so many songs in the movie that would mesh with the pinball machine. That's also why I'm trying to get this mix to mesh well with the game. Finding tracks from other artists or even the same artists that already have a song in the soundtrack.

1 month later
#1540 1 year ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

Does the magnets have a fuse anyone know

There are 3 magnets under the PF and all three have their own fuse located very near the magnets. Just trace the black wires that feed the magnets.

#1542 1 year ago
Quoted from Beaumistim:

Lah starts a game, but it's not kickinga ball out. Flippers aren't going on hand start either, but they are showing up in test switch mode. Any ideas?

Check fuses on solenoid board with a multimeter. Never trust a visual inspect.

#1554 1 year ago
Quoted from Beaumistim:

Alright, i got the ball kicking out, but still no flippers , or ball launch

What about your fuses on your flipper board? The board on the inside of the cabinet to the left. Also, if you know how - check and see if you have voltage going to your your flipper coils. If you have voltage; what is the readings?

#1555 1 year ago
Quoted from Beaumistim:

Alright, i got the ball kicking out, but still no flippers , or ball launch

I really want to stress how bad the fuse holders are on Data East games too. I would check to make sure your fuse holders have a strong grip on the fuses. EVERY FUSE HOLDER!

#1559 1 year ago
Quoted from Beaumistim:

No flippers, ball launch, and the "?" hole won't kick out either. I'm gonna stop for tonight and maybe get back on it tomorrow

One of the first things I do on DE games upon arrival is check the fuse holders. I give the fuses a little wiggle. If they wiggle - I replace the holder. If there is room to wiggle then there is room for lack of continuity and then you have all kinds of random shit going on in the game. Good thing is they are cheap. If you know how to solder then its an easy fix.

1 week later
#1574 1 year ago

Hey guys, I had to do a little repair on Arnold this weekend and decided to a video on it. This is a common issue to occur on this game. So, this is here as a refrence point.

#1577 1 year ago
Quoted from jedi42:

Watched the video, and wondered what mix you have on LAH. Assuming it is Pinsound, is it the one on the Pinsound forum or one you made?

Its the 1.20 version that I have made and should be available on this forum. I have a couple of more tweaks to do to it. I plan to fix those and then put the 1.25 version up on the pinsound community page.

#1585 1 year ago

Sounds like the ball isn't getting to the destination fast enough. Try to adjust the crane to have more of a tilt to allow the ball to roll faster to the center.

#1596 1 year ago

The VUK wireform has two screws that hold it in place on the playfield. You can loosen those two screws and move the entire wireform whatever direction you need it to move. That may help you move closer to where you need it to catch correctly. Also, there is some give in the tar pit mounting screws that can give you a few centimeters of movement to help too.

#1612 1 year ago

From the pics it looks like either you have current battery damage. Or you use to have some. The PIA under the batteries looks affected. The battery holder springs looks corroded too. I would check your battery connection. Are your high scores saving? I'm also seeing signs of mods or non-factory electrical alterations. Wire nuts near the top and the +12 wire to the MPU isn't like the others. Explain! lol.

#1614 1 year ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

I'm saving high scores I just changed the batteries the wires going up are to my pin stadium lights hooked on to the flashers in the topper the only thing it's doing is having to turn it on and off every other time I need to do the cleaning u shes in yours though every once in awhile the ball doesnt register in the middle trough besides that it plays great

I'm having a little difficulty understanding this run on sentence. Did this problem start out of no where or after you installed something in particular? For instance, did this start after you installed the pinsound board? Out of curiosity disconnect the Pinsound board from the rest of the game. See if you still have to boot up a time or two.

#1641 1 year ago

Get Arnold set up and let us see what you got!

#1655 1 year ago

Firstly, F1 on your PSU should be a 7A slow blow fuse so make sure you are putting in the correct fuse. When you start up the game chances are the fuse is starting to heat up. Start up the game with all balls in the trough and the coin door open. Keep your eye on that fuse upon start up and be ready to hit the power switch if you see that fuse start to glow. Thats the good thing about slow blows is that you have some time to save them from blowing if you see them starting to glow. Go into your settings mode and coil test. Then start testing your coils and see what that fuse does.

#1657 1 year ago

Did the game have these symptoms before you replaced the parts? It's good that you replaced C2 - that is the first thing to go on the PSU. I'm curious to if you installed everything correctly though. If it were a coil then the fuse on your solenoid board would blow - since its your PSU then the problem is more than likely on that board. Do you hear a coil lock on when powering up? Remember when testing to keep a finger on the power switch and power on the game and keep an eye on that fuse - if you start to see it glow - power off the game. Save yourself some money on fuses.

#1671 1 year ago

The main thing that you will need to figure out is if you have continuity to all components (top side and solder side). Next time you solder your caps have them raised higher off of the board. Gives you the ability to test continuity from under the cap and the cap has better air flow to help with heat disbursement. Chances are you have a bad connection to an essential portion of the board. I would verify continuity top and bottom on every component that you have replaced. Whatever trace leads to the next component - verify that there is a signal. For example you would verify that your positive 'leg' of the C2 is making continuity with the banded side of D2.

#1674 1 year ago

Mother of god...

lol. Okay, the soldering job on and around the BR is umm. Questionable? Like my previous post states. You will need to confirm continuity on this board to the components. OR you can get an aftermarket and be done with it and never have to worry about it again. I suggest the latter, personally. It will save you lots of time and effort - plus it will make your machine more reliable, and less heat in the backbox.

#1680 1 year ago

Curious question. I'm putting a video together right now on leveling machines. I'm showing methods using the mobile app vs. eyeballing with dropping a ball down the center of the PF. Using the app on this game shows that I'm off to the left quite a bit, but if I level it according to the app - the PF is way off center. The ball falls on my left slingshot. Curious. All my other games did fine. Anyone else use the app to level your games? Mainly curious if anyone else has this result on this game.

#1685 1 year ago

I just go by ball down the center, but the video I'm doing is to point out the inaccuracy of using solely the app. All my other games were good with using the app and matching with ball down the center test - except LAH. No big deal - it's level in the end. There may be some inconsistencies in the carpet compared to the flat surface that I used to calibrate the app. The joys of leveling on carpet...

#1689 1 year ago

Your + voltages are low. Especially the +12. At 4.98v you are barely making it work. You will more than likely experience random resets.

#1691 1 year ago

With the amount of money and time you are about to put into it - get a new one. You have already thrown at least $30 at it? Then you will throw more time and money. In the end you will spend $50 more for a new one - but its the peace of mind that you gain. Your next thing to look at are those 4 - 4700uf caps if you wish to continue.

#1718 1 year ago

humor me here. Do you have voltage on your GI bulbs? Check for A/C on your GI.

#1726 1 year ago

Glad you got an aftermarket PSU. You will be happy in the long run for sure. Once you figure out this GI issue - which it looks like you already have.

#1729 1 year ago

Let's not forget some basic stuff. Have you tried reseating your connections on your MPU? Check for burnt or damaged connectors/pins. Sometimes even just reseating can fix a bad connection. If you think that Q28 is bad - you should be able to use a DMM and test it in circuit. Compare to the others that are the same kind and deter if it matches known good ones.

#1731 1 year ago

Anyone else seen this? I must give the artist some credit. Doesn't look too bad. Maybe too much blue for me though.

ebay.com link » Last Action Hero Pinball Alternate Translite

#1735 1 year ago

Looking at the spec. Q28 is Solenoid Drive 11 - which activates the GI relay on the PSU BRN/ORG wire. When it activates it doesn't GIVE the ability to turn on the GI - it is what powers the GI off. When you power on your machine it should have GI. The relay should give a quick click about 1.5secs after boot and the GI should give a quick flicker. If you don't have GI on initial start up then you don't have power going to your GI. Please test your fuse and if you have around 8v A/C going to your bulbs. OR if you power on your machine and that relay clicks without delay - then your Q28 may be shorted and that charges the relay to kill your GI entirely.

#1737 1 year ago

Q28 is a TIP122. Should be the transistors closest to the connector. Looks like your Q39 and Q40 have already been replaced at some point in the past. Those TIP122 are easy to test while in circuit. Have you pulled the MPU yet to see if there is any backside damage?

#1743 1 year ago

When you order a new TIP122. Order a couple of extras. Good to have some for backup. Glad you got him going!

#1748 1 year ago

Data East hum is the bane of owning their games. You can usually 'lessen' it by adjusting the mounting screws to your sound board or upgrading to an LED display so you dont require the HV line anymore.

#1750 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

I have the LED ColorDmd in my LAH. Are you saying I can remove a fuse in my HV side and eliminate the hum?

Yup! The new stuff doesnt use the HV rail. I cant guarantee the word ELIMINATE, but it should be a noticeable improvement.

2 weeks later
#1760 1 year ago
Quoted from mikusm:

Question on my LAH. Just got it up and running. Put in a new Rottendog MPU and PROM v1.12. For some reason it goes into MBall right from the start seems like it's not supposed to. Any ideas?

It keeps releasing balls onto the playfield? Or the actual multiball mode? The crane moves and shaker mode goes and all that stuff?

#1762 1 year ago

Anyway you can post a video of it doing this? Sounds like a cpu issue or a major switch matrix issue.

1 month later