(Topic ID: 67379)

Last Action Hero club, come on in!


By Matt_Rasmussen

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,260 posts
  • 253 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 19 hours ago by dannunz
  • Topic is favorited by 89 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 535 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

1385331C-873A-43B0-A00C-FE58C76D8096 (resized).jpeg
20191110_164411 (resized).jpg
20191110_164225 (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
20191106_182643.jpg
20191106_183559 (resized).jpg
IMG_6372 (resized).JPG
20190922_143258 (resized).jpg
20190922_184302 (resized).jpg
20190922_181535 (resized).jpg
587AC443-B339-4870-ADB4-AAB4FBEEA534 (resized).jpeg
IMG_20190916_192027 (resized).jpg
20190913_000300 (resized).jpg
20190913_201130 (resized).jpg
20190913_210422 (resized).jpg
20190913_212023 (resized).jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider strangesubset1.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#733 2 years ago

Hello Everybody.

I finally got my first pinball machine earlier this week...Yeah. I did some research (could have done more, admitted), but I found a decent priced LAH in my area, and I do recall playing this game quite a bit when it launched back in the days. I thought I actually got a steal on a machine that seems to be in pretty good shape on the actual play board, but the cabinet is completely busted (supposedly was on exterior patio of a bar for a couple years, so the decals are faded to almost not visible and the wood is completely busted, swollen, chipping, etc.). I figured I can work on the cabinet as a nice project with my older son (after we enjoy the game for a while). Seeing what some of you guys paid for this....well, this is LA, everything is more expensive over here. But I am happy, love the game.
So a couple things did come up during the first couple days already and since I am a complete newbie, I figured I join the forum and ask a couple questions. I did read through all the pages and did find some similar issues as I have encountered, unfortunately, being that newbie, I need a bit more explanation for dummies, so apologies for that.
1. The ball seems to get stuck in the hole for the lift on the upper right corner once in a while. It's the one that leads up to the ramp that also serves the crane when in the right position. It just drops into the hole and nothing happens. After 20 seconds or so, the machine goes through it's missing ball routine, releases the ball and resets the game. This only happens occasionally, and not all the time, so the general function seems to be there.
2. My crane drops the ball over the play-field rather than taking it to the left to the intended position. Any idea? The actual movement of the crane seems to be fine. Just won't hold onto the ball.
3. I have read about the play field magnets in the game, which sounds like a lot of fun. Unfortunately, I don't seem to have that feature. Newbie warning....I don't even know where to start looking. Don't know if I even have magnets installed, where do I start looking? Anybody any images of the underside of the play board?
4. I have been looking for a replacement trans-lite. Mine is really faded, but I can't seem to find any anywhere. I know there used to be a guy who sold them on ebay a couple months/years back, but he seems to have gone MIA. Plus, and I know I am weird, I actually like the originally one a lot, so I would love to get that one back.
5. Cabinet. The underside of my cabinet is completely busted based on the machine spending it's lifetime on the outside. The partical board is all swollen up and I am afraid the shaker motor will rip out soon (the guy I bought it from actually had the the motor disconnected for that reason). Any suggestions? I have heard of some wood strengthening paints somewhere, but though I am pretty good once it comes to wood work, I have never seen any. Eventually, the plan is to replace it completely, but for now, I just need some quick temp fix.
6. Decals, any good sources for full exterior cabinet decals?
7. Diagnostic mode. Newbie stupid, I don't even know how to get into it.
8. More play related. How do you get your initials into the highscore when you play? And on top of that, how do you reset the high score.
9. Opening the headboard. I found the cam lock on the top and the bottom piece (with display and speaker can be lifted up a bit), but do you just have to use brutal force to get the trans-lite out? Want to make sure that there aren't any connections or pins I could break off.

Apologies for some questions if they seem to be obvious answers. Again, total newbie here. Love the game though. I have to fight my 5 year old to play it though, he is already mastering most of the shots.

#734 2 years ago

Me again. Cleaned up the gun assembly today. Missile button is working now, but won't light up anymore. Before it was lit, but did not work
Anyhow, today when my kiddo was playing, this piece suddenly popped out somewhere. Looks like some sort of switch trigger, but I can't figure out where it us coming from. Anybody any idea? See attached images.

WP_20170107_15_27_32_Rich (2) (resized).jpg

WP_20170107_15_27_37_Rich (2) (resized).jpg

#735 2 years ago

Oh, and my drop targets simply stay down, they aren't coming up anymore. Any help would be appreciated.

#737 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The micro switch wire form could have come
from the spinner assembly.
Check wires and switch contacts for the
drop target assembly.

100% correct about the spinner assembly. That's where it was. THANK YOU
Found the issue with the drop down as well. Nothing on cable or anything. Actually even measured the Voltage, all good. So in the end I checked the actual drop down assembly and how it connects to the coil. There is a blue plastic connector. It got pushed to far and the coil was simply stuck. A bit messing with that connection and it all works again.
A lot smarted by now .
My magnets do work, they are just very weak ;-(
Found out why the crane dropped. The entire machine wasn't level enough and that caused the ball to role around the pin in the crane (crazy). Expert on diagnostic mode by now as well (got an original manual, pretty sweet).
Still trying to find some help on cabinet work and decals.
As for the highscore, those initials that show up seem to be the factory default?

WP_20170107_19_22_22_Pro (resized).jpg

#743 2 years ago
Quoted from matt_adams:

I recently picked up a LAH with a shot (from damp) cabinet. I had to switch the shaker motor off as the whole bottom was moving! Got new decals from Retro Refurbs here in the UK and used a parted out LW3 cab as a donor.
http://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/last-action-hero-pinball-cabinet-decals/

Ha, that bottom looks like mine.
Do they ship to the US? I am not sure how to fund a donor, might be easier to simply get a new one from scratch.

#745 2 years ago

Ok, so I took a closer look at my cabinet bottom. It's definitely beyond repair, sagging below the sides. Reading through some threads it appears like I'll have to cut some of the coin door to replace it. The bottom part of the groove is broken out over 1/3 as well. Looks like a bigger project that I probably won't tackle before the summer....might be able to find a donor cabinet ny then. Turned off the shaker for now.
Anyhow, looked into the printed decals from the UK, and they seem really glossy. I actually much prefer the original which seems to be either silk screen printed or stenciled. I am thinking about crating a stencil. Does anybody have a decent scan of the original art work? Mine is too faded to be able to pick up on the details.
I am thinking about resetting them in Autocad or Illustrator. Couple good highres photos would probably do as well.
Thanks,

#759 2 years ago

LOL, just found out that the light bulb schedule in the original maintenance manual are pretty much incorrect. I had found a couple light bulbs out and thinking I would be smart I looked in the manual and ordered a bunch of #44 since they were listed as such. Came in the mail, and I was eager to replace them....should have looked first. They are #555, no I have to wait another 2 days for new lights ;-(.

#763 2 years ago
Quoted from kba78:

Anyone be able to post an up close picture or scan of the speaker grilles and emblem in the middle of the topper. It's the last few things I need to get this thing back together (I think?)
Thanks again for the help guys

Will shoot some pictures tomorrow night. You need it from the backside I assume?

#765 2 years ago
Quoted from kba78:

Will shoot some pictures tomorrow night. You need it from the backside I assume?
Actually need pictures of the front were the tickets are on the grills. Gonna try to make a stencil but can find a close enough picture

WP_20170118_20_35_45_Rich (resized).jpg

WP_20170118_20_35_39_Rich (resized).jpg

WP_20170118_20_35_48_Rich (resized).jpg

#767 2 years ago
Quoted from kba78:

Awesome, thanks!!! Those should work. Can you post one of the emblem in the middle of the topper too? Thanks for the help

I might have to take another one in daylight tomorrow.

WP_20170120_20_11_41_Rich (2) (resized).jpg

#769 2 years ago

So what do you do if the bottom if your cabinet is falling apart and you really want to use the shaker motor again, but don't feel like tackling the complete cabinet rebuilt yet.....
Not pretty but it works.

WP_20170122_13_19_14_Rich (resized).jpg

WP_20170122_13_18_52_Rich (resized).jpg

WP_20170122_13_18_45_Rich (resized).jpg

#770 2 years ago
Quoted from kba78:

Thanks strangesubset1. If you can't get one with out shadows, then I will try to make it work.
Thanks much

This is the best I can do. Sorry. Mine is not the best anymore

WP_20170122_13_24_18_Rich (2).jpg

#773 2 years ago

I thought I had read this here somewhere, but after rereading the entire thread and 772 post, I can't seem to find it anymore.
Here is my issue. The ball sometimes gets stuck at the VUK on the top right. The one that shoots it onto the ramp or crane if in place.
The coil works, tests fine and probably 2-3 times fires fine, but 1 out of 3 times it simply sits there and does nothing. This seems to happen more often in multi ball mode. I have to wait an easy 20 seconds for the ball to go into missing ball mode and fire all the coils for it to be ejected. This is particular bothersome in multi ball mode, since the VUK gets blocked.
Any help is appreciated.

#775 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

I would check the solder joints on the switch. May not have a good connection. When multiball is active so is your shaker motor which can vibrate any loose connection you have in the game.

Thanks. Will check tomorrow. That sounds logical. Found a couple bad solder joint before, just did not venture that far back under the playfield. Makes sense though, now that my shaker is running again.

#779 2 years ago

Ha. Seems to solve my problem as well. My loop seems to be bend up, so the ball gets around it and gets stuck under it, which is why the coil won't for. Access to this one sucks. Tough to get to without having to unsolder wires.

WP_20170124_21_21_10_Pro (resized).jpg

WP_20170124_21_34_28_Pro (resized).jpg

#781 2 years ago

Do you know if I need the diode on the replacement as well?

#787 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Anyone able to give a me a high res scan of the plastic that covers the ripper coil? Coil burnt up and took the plastic with it. Would like to make a new one made.

If nobody gets you one by Saturday I will. Can't get to it right now.

#792 2 years ago

I don't have any soundtrack playing. Am I missing some sort of sound chip?

#794 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

you may need to go into your settings under the adjustments. There is an option to turn down the background music.

Turn down? I would assume i have to turn it up, don't I?

1 week later
#802 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Anyone able to give a me a high res scan of the plastic that covers the ripper coil? Coil burnt up and took the plastic with it. Would like to make a new one made.

Ok here is the not so great attempt. My scanner is only letter size, and has a pretty thick border. I'll give it another shot at the office tomorrow where I have a ledger size copy scanner.
Both scans and my attempt to stitch on halfway useful version.

EDIT. Deleted the old bad ones. Here is the complete scan. Much better

LAH Ripper Scan.jpg

#803 2 years ago
Quoted from nitroshaker:

I've only seen one nice one and it was $2,600 in the last year or so in Ohio. After a complete tear down and rehab that's about what I've got in mine including the $550 to put all Rottendog boards in it.

ebay.com link » Pinball Machine Last Action Hero

Sounds like a great price. I paid 2k for one that had a busted cabinet.

1 week later
#814 2 years ago

Just realized that I am actually missing one of the red flasher dome lights completely. It's the one under the blue ramp on the left. Tough to see it is missing if you don't know it needs to be there. At this point in time I can only say, stay away from the ebay user pinsidetraiding. It's a local guy in LA, but if you are a newbie like me, he will exploit your ignorance.
Anyhow, I know these diamond shaped domes are nowhere to be found in the US. I had looked for the blue one before as well, but I found a source in Germany and one Australia that have at least the red one. Shipping is a bit pricy. Anybody wants to jump in and order more to save on crazy shipping cost?

Added over 3 years ago: Need a quick update. Miscommunication was the cause. The ebayer came through after all and fixed everything up. Goes from stay away to highly recommended. Apologies for the confusion.

#815 2 years ago

LOL. Just watched the movie with my kiddo. He wanted to see it, since I had told him that I actually liked the movie. Guess 23 years blurred my memories a bit. Didn't remember it being that bad . Fun to see and hear all the lines that they used on the pinball again though.

1 week later
#823 2 years ago
Quoted from JP:

Saw some older posts on here about a 1.13 rom version for LAH but can't find it for sale. Does anyone have these EPROMs available or a rom to download? Thanks...

https://sites.google.com/site/lahpinballmod/

Don't forget to donate, the guy put tons of work into it.

1 week later
#833 2 years ago

Measure the voltage at the coil while in diagnostics coil test. If you can measure the voltage you got a dead coil, if there is non, your cable is broken somewhere (I would not assume that there is any board damage yet, with the old machines, cable rip, solders loosen, etc. - I am resoldering a different connection about every 2-4 weeks ).
I'll be up in your area in July....but I don't think you want to wait that long. Get a cheap multi meter from harbor freight or fry's if you don't have one already. You'll need one when you own a pin

#834 2 years ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

Measure the voltage at the coil while in diagnostics coil test. If you can measure the voltage you got a dead coil, if there is non, your cable is broken somewhere (I would not assume that there is any board damage yet, with the old machines, cable rip, solders loosen, etc. - I am resoldering a different connection about every 2-4 weeks ).
I'll be up in your area in July....but I don't think you want to wait that long. Get a cheap multi meter from harbor freight or fry's if you don't have one already. You'll need one when you own a pin

If there is no power at the coil, you'll have to trace the cable, tedious work, but the only way.

2 weeks later
#857 2 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Also, a HUGE WTF when it comes to adjusting the wire ramp that comes out of the crane ejector. There's only one screw that provides the adjustment. Last night, I attempted to adjust it 4 friggin' times. I'm still not getting a smooth transition between the upper and lower wire ramp. Half my games last night, the ball rode ON TOP of the bottom wire ramp. Comes at you way faster that way...
I can't imagine that this adjustment type was very popular/appreciated when LAH was on location.

Are you referring to the ramp from the VUK on the top right, or the blue ramp on the left?
I had to do some serious bending of the VUK assembly to not have my ball constantly just fall back onto the pf rather than into the wire ramp.

#862 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

You shouldn't have to bend anything. Possibly just the tilt angle of your game not being high enough or coil not strong enough.

Well, that depends on if it was bend all out of shape before . Seriously, my cab tilt was all good, but tye VUK would simply not stay horizontal and looked like the leaning tower of Pisa. It's all good now, but it did require a little bending.

#866 2 years ago

1. Go back to post #779-782 and you'll find info on the switch (it's the same for the VUK). Part number listed there.
2. Looks suspicious to me, I can check my cabling tomorrow if nobody else has a clue. But I see some electrical tape at your cn10 connector, so there might be some bad cable patch under that tape.
3. I have seen all sorts of colors, don't know what's original. Capn, any idea?
4. Do you mean shaker motor?
5. I run 1.13. Really fun. There is a couple guys out here who would probably burn it for you if you ask. I unfortunately don't have the capability.
6. Are you looking for better sound? The old DEs have some issues on the speaker buzzing. New speakers won't solve that. There has been multiple post about this. I have heard pinsound would solve it (but that is pricy), and just recently somebody discovered that a dedicated power supply helps (I am going to try that one actually)
7. Yeah, I probably need to rebuild my right one sooner than later as well.

Welcome to the club by the way. LAH us probably the most underrated game ever. Tons of fun for very reasonable price.

#874 2 years ago

Deleted.....sorry, had the wrong info.

#876 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

That switch is completely the wrong item for his chicken scoop...
The parts he posted should work though instead of the out of stock item.
Glad you have found some of the issues and are working towards repairs. With this game having a shaker motor installed from factory there is a good chance you will find broken solder joints throughout the game. Your fuse holders are probably on their last leg too. Data East games are notorious for that.

Sorry about that. Somebody in this forum pointed me to this one previously when I was looking for the VUK switch and mentioned it would be the same as the chicken scoop....sorry for the confusion and thanks for correcting me capn.

#878 2 years ago

Had some broken clear plastics.
Thanks to jasonpaulbauer, nice new clear shiny cover.

WP_20170415_17_56_17_Pro (resized).jpg

#879 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

No problems. VUK, yes though. lol.

I guess I was talking about the multiball switch . Same as the VUK

WP_20170415_18_02_18_Pro (resized).jpg

#880 2 years ago

A day of tears and joy. Got a nice package from Germany. Look what all was in there. Happy camper. Warauki, your blue naked ramp is already packed for its way up north.
So happy for the first two parts, till I pulled the third out of the package. The blue ramp assembly did not make it. Broken badly in two areas ☹ . Postal service is of little help. The German postal service says you have to file a claim here, USPS says, you have to give us the package and we can file a damage report, but payment will have to come through a claim made in Germany.

WP_20170419_18_53_21_Pro (resized).jpg
WP_20170419_18_53_31_Pro_LI (resized).jpg
WP_20170419_18_52_52_Pro_LI (resized).jpg
WP_20170419_18_22_10_Pro_LI (resized).jpg
WP_20170419_08_06_52_Pro_LI (resized).jpg

#882 2 years ago

Yes, they would probably sell like hot cakes. That tarpit ramp seems to be one of those that it is not a question if it will break but when it will break.
Love the idea of translucent. Could be really cool.

#888 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

If you have a fully working stock mag board with no issues - consider yourself lucky.

I guess despite the broken ramps I am lucky

#903 2 years ago
Quoted from Butch2099:

Has anyone ever seen a collector quality LAH? Original not blown out scoops? I would probably overpay for one of those

Define blown out .
Mine has some wear, and I have seen one once without any, but usually you have other issues in such case. There aren't too many out there

3 weeks later
#935 2 years ago
Quoted from angus:

My LAH has been playing great, but the crane is now becoming an issue. I've tried adjusting it to hit both switches consistently, but can't get there. If the playfield is vertical it has no problem, but when in the normal position there is enough play in the gears that the shaft doesn't make the crane go all the way to the switch. Can the gears be replaced? Anybody do that work? I looked for a new one and didn't see any in stock anywhere (but one in Germany in the marketplace). TIA

That's Kevin.... the German one. I got a nice NOS main ramp from him.

#937 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballHog:

I've only got 1 of the three magnets working. I've tested the other 2 by using a 9 volt battery and they work. I'm guessing it's the transistors on the magnet controller board under the playfield. Is there a way to test them like you can the tip102 with a meter? Also is it better to replace the old transistors or just buy a new style board?

That board is falling on most machines. There is a link to a very good repair guide for it somewhere in this thread.
....
Found it.
http://www.techdose.com/repairlog/Repairing-a-Data-East-Last-Action-Hero-Magnet-Controller-Board/306/page1.html

3 weeks later
#940 2 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

New to the club, I've owned LAH for one day, but I quite like it. Lots of stuff going on.
I hit the Grand Finale and was confused. Was rocking the six ball multi ball, then it locked the flippers and drained all the balls. Then I had to sell movie tickets, and after a while it again locked down the flippers and drained the balls. Did I fail to do something, or is that success, advancing me through stages of wizard mode?

6 ball is limited time after you hit Last Action Hero. Totally normal.

1 month later
#970 2 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

Does anyone have the cab artwork in vector for me to re-print please ?

I'll take a copy of that file if you find one

Quoted from alistaircg:

What is the best firmware currently out and where could I get it please?

https://sites.google.com/site/lahpinballmod/

3 weeks later
#979 2 years ago
Quoted from angus:

My crane is now stopping before it hits the switch when trying to lock a ball. It points SDTM usually. In the crane test it works just fine. Any ideas how to correct that? The crane itself is brand new and works just great.

Sorry, just to clarify, when you seen on test mode, the crane does go all the way to the left till it touches the switch at the blue ramp, but it stops short in play with a ball in it? Does it simply stop, or turn back?

#982 2 years ago

Sounds like something is giving a signal to stop the power to the motor. Test mode is a bit different since you decide by pressing a button how long current flows. Did you ever test the motor without the full crane assembly on top?
I would probably even try a hard reset on the game. I know, sounds stupid but it can sometimes solve the weirdest issues.
Just another guess....what happens if you disconnect the switch at the end? Maybe it is somehow faulty and the vibration of the shaker is causing a short.

#984 2 years ago

Yes, there is a set screw. I'll check on the weekend if I can take a pic of it.

#988 2 years ago
Quoted from angus:

Hey StrangeSubset - I know there is a set screw, but the question is where the crane has to be in relation to the position of the cam is my question. So when the crane is on the right or left switch, does it matter what position the cam on the motor is in? So a picture of both might help.

Had a couple busy days. Will try to get onto it this weekend.

1 month later
#1005 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Also known as "the part that is broken on every LAH ever."
Rebuild the mech, make sure that the ball is being hit squarely and adjust adjust adjust until it works.

Had the same problem, and simply bend down the loop a bit more. Has been working perfectly fine for the last 9 months now.

#1007 2 years ago
Quoted from Kiwipinz:

Thanks for the info, funnily enough I just came across your post a few pages back regarding it. I assume theres no way to bend the wire without taking the VUK off the playfield?

Not really, but it comes off rather easy compared to some other games out there.

#1009 2 years ago
Quoted from Kiwipinz:

Yep, was a really easy fix - and now the only issue I have is the ball getting hung up occasionally on the drop downs. Such a fun game!

You can adjust them from the underside. The bracket allows them to be moved up and down.

#1015 2 years ago
Quoted from Feverish:

My biggest problem is single pinball machine ownership, I quickly realised you can't play and repair at the same time.

My second one came 3 months after I got my first, which was an LAH as well. Same reason. Always need to have one up and running .

1 week later
#1020 2 years ago
Quoted from Kiwipinz:

Hey guys could anyone please check their machines and see if I'm missing a post on the left drain (right drain has one in the same place).
Cheers

Per factory there is no post in that hole. I guess somebody decided to put it onto the template and in production they decided against it.

2 months later
#1049 1 year ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Need opinion.
Fuse 7 (3amp slow-Blo) blows after a while.
Flipper and Flashers, correct?
Thoughts on how to find my short?
Maybe disconnect Flasher molex connector (which one?) and see if fuse still blows?
What do you think the 1st step would be?
Thanks in advance for your council.

I had a similar problem, but it turned out that I simply needed to use a different type of fuse. The one with the spiral inside rather than the thin wire.
Might not be your problem, but I figured I throw it out there.

1 month later
#1070 1 year ago

Strange thing happened to my LAH today. Suddenly the sound level dropped and the sound is flat. Still all there, just not as full as it used to be. Speaker both test fine, but I have no idea how to test the speaker in the cabinet (sub). And that one seams to be dead. Any ideas?

#1072 1 year ago
Quoted from waruaki:

Loose connection? Perform a continuity check on the run to the speaker

found it. So it actually was all still working, just very flat mono soundish. It was my dedicated power supply that I guess is not able to produce enough voltage anymore. Plugged in the original power C2 connector and the bigger sound is back. Unfortunately the humming as well, which I installed the dedicated supply for and which did help.

#1077 1 year ago

Haven't seen them yet, do look quite interesting. I am debating mirror blades though.

#1090 1 year ago
Quoted from Uofkgrad1990:

Joined the club this weekend. Found a great one with a little scoop wear and no ticket wear. Came with alt translight and 1.13 roms. It is a very fun game. Only issue I have had so far is my 9 year old son had a great game and crushed me.

Welcome to the club. It is a great game. Make sure to put an NVRAM in, best investment ever.

3 weeks later
#1111 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Yup, same thing on my end. Have managed to hook the bungee cord. But by they then, I'm almost too wore out to work on it. LOL

I second that. Tough to get in, take a break from work after you get it in.

3 months later
#1325 1 year ago

I'll finally be starting a partial restore of my LAH. Overall, the playfield is in great shape, no excessive wear, but my main ramp has a broken tap and some of the plastics are broken or bleached out. I have the ramp as a spare and most of the plastics. Blue pit ramp has a crack as well, but since there is no replacement available, I'll just have to repair it.
My cab is pretty shot, with delaminating exterior and one side barely reads the graphics anymore. But, I am actually gonna try to rescue the cab with this exterior appearance, like the original silk screen print look better than a new lami on it. So restore will be concentrated on bottom of cab, corners with blended in paint work and interior of cab.
All that said, I am looking for mirror blades but not sure which ones would fit. Found some chrome mirror on here in the marketplace for $70, but was thinking black chrome might fit the game better. Anybody has any source for those?

4 months later
#1769 11 months ago

I thought I read this in the thread here somewhere, but I cannot find it anymore. So apologies for the repeat question.
My LAH sound is not as voluminous anymore as it used to be, there is zero low or base, but it is not that the sub is not working anymore. Simply all the lows are cut. Any idea?

#1774 11 months ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

With power off, turn your volume control back and forth a few times to try and clean the contacts. Then try again

Will give it a shot later during the week. Doubt that this would be the cause though. As I mentioned, it is not simply lower volume, but the lower frequency that is cut out.

#1776 11 months ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

With power off, turn your volume control back and forth a few times to try and clean the contacts. Then try again

Wow, so far so good. It did seem to do the trick, just turning the volume control....weird. Especially since it only had cut out certain frequencies.

Anyhow...Thank You. Cheapest fix ever on this machine.

#1781 11 months ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Basically, I think it is cutting out your cabinet speaker. Try getting some contact cleaner and spray off into the volume control. Usually, you can buy a small spray bottle.

i'll take it apart and clean the contacts, but once again, it is not simply cutting the cab speaker. All speakers work, including the cab, but they cut the lower range of frequency. That's why I am thinking it might be some capacitors on the sound board that might be going bad, but I would have no idea where to start.

2 weeks later
#1797 11 months ago
Quoted from pfinny:

My opinion. 250.00 to 350.00 range, maybe little more to right person

I'll second that.

#1811 10 months ago
Quoted from Rando:

Woot,
Finally a member of this club!
LAH just delivered, looks great, sounds great, plays great. Couple pics below, happy to finally add this to my collection, enjoyed moving it from my Wish list to owned.
Only issue I'm having is the top right hole that pops the ball into the rigtht wire-frame doesn't always register the ball is there. Maybe 20% of the time, ball will land in the hole and pause, until game goes into ball finder mode and kicks it up. Delivery tech messed with it for a bit at setup and thought we had it fixed, but still happening sometimes. Seems to register ball better on a clunky shot, if ball enters hole smooth and quiet like, that's where if has trouble, if that makes sense.
Fun game, looking forward to putting lots of time into it!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Welcome to the club. The fork switch sometimes has issues. I simply bend the fork up a bit more and never had an issue since.

1 month later
#1877 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Does anyone have a spare one of these in good condition for sale?
[quoted image]

Or two? I could use one as well.

#1884 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Everyone, I need somebody's help, please. Since these plastics are absolute gold and nobody has responded that they have an extra one to sell, I'm working on a custom made version of one that I would be willing to sell if/when I execute.
What I need at this point are some exact measurements so that I can size the plastic. Can someone please provide the exact length and width in mm per the position of the green lines in my graphic (I have the shape and I've colored appropriately, but just don't know dimensions)?
I make my plastics out of Lexan (quite the pain, honestly, with all the cutting and shaping), which is slightly thicker but much more durable than stock plastics. I adhere the printed graphic to it so it is not painted, but the final product comes out quite nice, is extremely durable, and does not overtly stand out from the other plastics. Up to this point, I've had to adhere the graphic to the top (photo quality print with OEM photo inks & paper, then laminated with gloss vinyl), but I have some new adhesive sheets that I want to test that may allow me to adhere from the bottom side without distorting the graphics (still need to test). For reference, here is an example of two of the plastics I have created and sold for the Getaway (both plastics above the two target banks are my custom ones): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/70#post-3415047
To set expectations, at this point I'm thinking I would charge $20 including postage to US. I obviously need to get one created with lots of pics before anyone commits, but thought I would throw it out there.
[quoted image]

I am in for one.

#1911 9 months ago

For 2k I would throw my beater LAH out and pick this one up if I would be any closer.

#1919 9 months ago

Not sure about themulti ball, but the VUK not kicking out the ball is pretty common and a very easy fix. It is the switch that does not register. If you have an original one it is a looped metal ring, or if it has been replaced at one time it is a fork switch. Simply bend up the fork or loop a bit and the switch will register much better once the ball hits it.

3 months later
#2066 6 months ago

what a steal!

#2082 6 months ago
Quoted from Esoteric_rt:

Wow, never thought the LAH translite could be made any worse...

LOL. I have seen it before. I actually think it is kind if funny and the author made some great choices on the background images. I especially like the reaper.
542 Days and Counting.....

2 months later
#2136 4 months ago

I don't have my ticket mylared. If you wax it good enough, you should be plenty fine. Not like you are playing this thing 24/7 as on location.

1 month later
#2184 86 days ago
Quoted from ltd73:

NOS Blue Ramp in bag
$425[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I get it, this is really rare, but $425 for it is ridiculous. I am sorry if I am offending you, but this should not be more than $150 max.

2 months later
#2232 24 days ago

If anybody has an original translite insert that they want to sell or trade against the alternate one from ministry of pinball, please let me know. Screwed up my original one and got the alternate, but not a big fan of it.

2 weeks later
#2242 6 days ago

So I am finally getting to fixing a couple issues on my LAH. One thing that has been bothering me since I got it a couple years ago is how the crane drops the ball into the tar pit ramp. The crane hovers about 1/2" above the ramp, so when the ball drops in, it has a lot of velocity which causes it to jump over the stop coil and it just roles out instead of staying in the tar pit.
I checked the crane, and tried to lower it, but the shaft has a stop ring on it. I even took that off and lowered the crane, but it would be too low for the upper VUK and won't move into position on the VUK to receive the ball anymore. I looked at the tar pit ramp, but it does not seem like it could be raised?
Any idea?

#2244 5 days ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Post a side pic of your crane in the resting postion above the tar pit for comparison to others, please.

20191106_183559 (resized).jpg20191106_182643.jpg
#2246 5 days ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Looks like your positioning is on par with mine. My only other thought would be that your games back legs are up too high. I can't recall a ball ever bouncing over the lock mech - especially being a common issue. Unless your lock mech isn't as high as needed. Which I don't think there is an adjustment for that - so more than likely isn't the issue.

Back legs to high....huh....I thought my game was already playing slow....The level on the playfield is useless, according to that I would have to make it even steeper (higher in the back). Anybody a good idea of how to get the correct pitch on the playfield?

#2250 4 days ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

I'm just trying to call out any possibility of cause to your problem. Doubtful that the pitch is the issue, but if possible could you post a small video of it doing this issue?

Will shoot a video on the weekend.

#2251 2 days ago

How do I post a video?

never mind.....googles it .
here is the video:

#2254 1 day ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

That pitch on the crane or machine is high. That ball seems to fly onto and off of it really quickly.

Quoted from vec-tor:

Crane too high, tar pit too low.

Ok, which one of these two. Pitch of the game can be adjusted. Crane too high....don't think so. If it would be lower (I tried), it won't make it onto the VUK bracket to receive the ball. Tar pit too low....sure, how in the world do I get it higher though. It is connected to the wire ramp below.

#2258 1 day ago

Yes, those all look a lot higher than mine. No idea how to make it any longer, it is all riveted together.
As for the blue ramp. I had reached out to Freeplay40, but got really busy the weekend we were supposed to discuss this further. Kind of dropped the ball on it.
Might have to reach out to him again if he would be willing to put it on his list for reproductions. I have seen used ones go for over $300 which is insane for a game that is still to be had for $2k.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 229.99
From: $ 16.95
$ 30.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 369.95
Boards
PinSound
$ 40.00
Playfield - Decals
Great American Pinball
2,300 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Rocky River, OH
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
From: $ 40.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
From: $ 9.99
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider strangesubset1.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside